Another Kind of Beauty in Puzhehei: Finding True Peace in the Off-Season Without Lotus Flowers

In May, Puzhehei had not a single lotus flower in bloom. And that, ironically, became the greatest stroke of luck on this trip.

As a mother of two, traveling with kids during the May Day holiday is never easy. Crowded attractions, endless queues, the suffocating feeling of being squeezed in a sea of people—just thinking about it makes my scalp tingle. So when I spotted the name "Puzhehei" on the map, a flicker of hope stirred inside me: maybe, just maybe, this place could offer a different kind of holiday.

As it turned out, that choice was spot on. Though we missed the lotus season, the vast expanse of turquoise water, the handful of fellow travelers, the morning birdsong intertwined with twilight serenity—all of this was far more healing than any Instagram-famous destination.

Why Puzhehei?

During the 2026 May Day holiday, I set off with my family of five—two kids, one elderly parent, and myself—on a journey to Puzhehei in Yunnan. Four days and three nights, with a modest per-person budget, but the experience far exceeded expectations.

Originally, we planned to leave on May 1st and return on the 4th, leaving a day to rest before returning to work. But tickets were simply impossible to get. We had to change to departing on the 2nd and returning on the 5th. I was a bit annoyed at the time, but later realized this "forced" adjustment turned out to be one of the best parts of the entire trip.

Why? Because it rained in Puzhehei from the 1st to the 3rd. If we had stuck to the original plan, we'd likely have been stuck in our guesthouse, unable to go anywhere. But on the 4th, the weather gods smiled on us with brilliant sunshine, allowing us to cruise the lake, climb the mountain, and take in the most stunning scenery.

Sometimes, fate's arrangements are more thoughtful than our own plans.

The Itinerary: Four Days, Three Nights, No Rush

Day 1: Guangzhou → Puzhehei → Guesthouse → Dinner

We took a high-speed train from Guangzhou to Puzhehei Station, a journey of about 6 hours and 44 minutes. Upon arrival, the driver arranged by our guesthouse owner was already waiting outside the station. He drove us all the way to Xiaozhaizi Village, deep in the countryside.

Day 2: Xianrendong Village → Blueberry Picking (A Rainy Day Detour)

We hadn't planned to visit Xianrendong (Immortal Cave Village), but since it was raining and outdoor activities were out of the question, we made a last-minute trip to the cave. The boat ride inside was very short—probably less than five minutes—and after disembarking, it took just over ten minutes to walk through. To be honest, the cave's formations weren't particularly impressive, but as a "rain shelter activity," it did the job.

What really got the kids excited was the afternoon blueberry picking. Near Xianrendong Village, we rented a small electric scooter and found a blueberry farm. Even though the ground was muddy from the rain, the owner thoughtfully gave us plastic bags to slip over our shoes, saving them from ruin. The blueberries, picked and eaten on the spot, were so sweet and refreshing that we couldn't stop. Later, we bought some small nectarines and grapes from a roadside three-wheeled fruit vendor—both were delicious too.

Day 3: Shanhe Rumeng → Lutang Pier for Willow Leaf Boat → Qinglong Mountain → Dinner

This day was the highlight of the entire trip. In the morning, we went to "Shanhe Rumeng" (Mountains and Rivers in Dreams)—a café I'd seen countless times on social media, located near Xihuang Wetland. The setting was indeed perfect for photos. We had to make a purchase to sit down, but ordering a coffee and gazing at the lake view was well worth it.

In the afternoon, we boarded a willow leaf boat at Lutang Pier. The one-hour boat ride offered lake and mountain scenery so beautiful that words failed us. The boatman reminded us not to pick the lotus leaves in the lake, and everyone complied. After disembarking, we walked to Qinglong Mountain (Green Dragon Mountain)—climbing is free, but you need to scan a QR code to register. We chose a steeper route, and people we met along the way warned us it wasn't suitable for kids. But with Dad's encouragement all the way, both children managed to reach the summit! On the way down, the younger one fell asleep in Dad's arms—the "price of victory," I suppose.

Day 4: Return Journey

On the last day, we checked out early. The driver arrived on time, and we had a smooth ride to the station, heading back to Guangzhou.

Accommodation: Surprises and Disappointments

This time, we chose "Yepu Tianyuan Lake View Boutique Guesthouse." Since we were a family of five (two adults, two kids, one elderly), we needed a two-bedroom, one-living-room suite. After browsing several platforms, only this one met our needs. What attracted me was that the guesthouse had a ping-pong table, a pool table, and a private lakeside garden—so the kids would have something to do if we were stuck indoors on rainy days.

But reality didn't quite match the dream. The ping-pong and pool tables were placed next to the kitchen, surrounded by boxes of ingredients. The kitchen and dining area were inevitably greasy, and the environment was, well, less than ideal. The bathroom in our room was also very small—it was almost impossible to turn around while bathing the kids.

That said, the guesthouse's garden was indeed beautiful, and the lake view was healing. The owner was also very kind, helping us find a reliable driver who came to pick us up early on the return day—thoughtful service.

If you're planning to bring your family to Puzhehei, I recommend confirming the actual condition of the guesthouse in advance, especially the bathroom and common areas. If you have higher standards for accommodation, consider staying near Xianrendong Village, which is livelier and more convenient for dining and shopping.

Food: Yunnan Flavors, No Misses

First Meal: Mushroom Hotpot

How could you visit Yunnan without trying a mushroom hotpot? Our first night, we ate at "Jun Guo Guo" (Mushroom Hotpot), near the guesthouse. The types of mushrooms vary by season; the set meal came with a nine-compartment platter. I can't recall all the varieties, but the overall texture was excellent—some crunchy, some slippery. The broth was a clear soup with local black-footed chicken, which suited our Cantonese palates perfectly. I also highly recommend the mushroom buns.

Second Day: Lotus Flower Fish, Five-Color Rice, Stir-Fried Beef

Most of Puzhehei's cuisine revolves around lotus flowers and leaves—lotus flower fish, fried lotus flowers, lotus leaf chicken. I don't like fish, so I can't comment on the lotus flower fish, but my companions said it had a sweet-and-sour flavor with tender flesh. The five-color rice was wonderfully chewy and sticky. Most wild vegetables had a slight bitterness, with slightly tough leaves. The standout dish was the local stir-fried beef—tender meat with just the right seasoning. The local lotus root soup was also good, with a soft, powdery texture worth trying.

Last Meal: Sunset Restaurant

On our final night in Puzhehei, we chose a restaurant near Xianrendong Village with an incredible view. We got incredibly lucky and witnessed a stunning sunset. The Sanqi Steamed Chicken (三七汽锅鸡, chicken steamed in a clay pot with notoginseng) was pricey, but the chicken portion was generous—recommended. The lotus leaf omelette was especially impressive; you could tell it was made with free-range eggs, rich in flavor. The fried potatoes, crispy on the outside and soft inside, were also excellent.

Transportation: Small Hassles in the Off-Season

From Puzhehei Station to the scenic area, you can take a tram for 4.5 yuan per person. But since it was the off-season, after getting out of the visitor center, we had to call a taxi to get into the scenic area. We waited a long time, and the driver even added a surcharge. I recommend arranging a pickup with your guesthouse in advance, or taking the scenic area shuttle bus directly.

Getting around within the scenic area is relatively convenient. You can rent small electric scooters (plenty of options, prices negotiable), take a horse-drawn carriage (charged per ride), or use the scenic area shuttle bus (fixed stops, unlimited rides on the same day).

Attractions: Less Rushing, More Beauty

Xianrendong Village

If you're short on time, you can skip it. The cave's formations are fairly ordinary, and both the boat ride and walking distance are very short. However, Xianrendong Village itself is worth a stroll, and the sunset restaurant is nearby.

Blueberry Picking

A must-do if you're traveling with kids. The blueberries, picked and eaten on the spot, are sweet and refreshing—far better than anything from the supermarket. I suggest asking locals to find a reliable blueberry farm.

Boat Ride

The core experience of Puzhehei. There are three types of boats: painted boats, bamboo rafts, and willow leaf boats, with routes covering the west, middle, and east lines. We chose the willow leaf boat, boarding at Lutang Pier and disembarking at Qinglong Mountain Pier, where we could immediately start climbing—a very convenient route. The boat ride lasts about an hour, with breathtaking scenery along the way.

Qinglong Mountain

Climbing is free, but you need to scan a QR code to register. There are two peaks and two routes; we chose the steeper one. It was a bit challenging with kids, but the view from the top was worth it. The summit platform is small, and there's a small shop selling drinks.

Shanhe Rumeng

A café perfect for photo ops, located near Xihuang Wetland. You need to make a purchase to sit down, but the setting is indeed lovely.

Final Thoughts: The Off-Season Puzhehei Is Even More Beautiful

Many people visit Puzhehei to see the lotus flowers. But in May, Puzhehei has no lotus flowers in bloom. Yet it was precisely this "missed opportunity" that allowed me to see its most authentic, most peaceful side.

No crowds, no noisy vendors—just the turquoise lake, blue skies with white clouds, the occasional water bird flying by, and small pink flowers blooming everywhere along the roadside. The kids ran by the lake, the elderly basked in the sun in the garden, and I sat on the balcony, gazing at the distant mountains and nearby water, sipping a cup of tea. A holiday like this is far more healing than any Instagram-famous destination.

That's life: you lose something, but you gain something else. We missed the lotus season, but we gained the most serene Puzhehei. If you're looking for a truly leisurely holiday—one where you don't rush between attractions and aren't disturbed by crowds—consider visiting Puzhehei in the off-season. You'll discover that Puzhehei without lotus flowers is actually more beautiful.

Quick Practical Tips: - Best time to go: Avoid the rainy season; choose clear weather - Transportation: Arrange a pickup with your guesthouse in advance to avoid surcharges - Accommodation: Confirm bathroom and common area conditions beforehand - Dining: Mushroom hotpot, Sanqi steamed chicken, lotus leaf omelette, local stir-fried beef - Boat ride: Willow leaf boat + Qinglong Mountain route is most recommended - With kids: Blueberry picking, riding electric scooters, mountain climbing (choose the gentler slope) - Money-saving tip: On boat ride days, you can use your ID card for unlimited shuttle bus rides

This travelogue is a personal experience shared for reference. Please contact the author for republishing.