Setting Off Alone: Finding the Meaning of Travel in Lijiang

Every woman should have at least two things in her life worth braving: one is cutting off her long hair without hesitation, and the other is embarking on a journey alone. In the spring of 2012, I chose the latter. I packed my bags and flew to Lijiang—a place often dubbed the "Capital of Romance." But don't get me wrong: I wasn't there for a fling. I was there to find myself.

Departure: A Whimsical, Spontaneous Decision

I had been talking about going to Lijiang for at least six months. Every time I planned a trip with friends, someone would cancel at the last minute. When I finally managed to gather a group, our vacation schedules never aligned. Gradually, I came to a harsh realization: waiting for others means waiting forever for the perfect trip.

So, I made an impulsive decision—I bought a plane ticket and set off alone.

There were no direct flights from Ningbo to Lijiang, so I chose to transfer in Kunming. Since it was a last-minute plan, the tickets weren't cheap. The four flights cost me nearly 2,800 RMB—half of my entire travel budget. Honestly, my heart ached as I swiped my card. But later, I understood that some things are worth more than money: courage, for instance, and freedom.

Itinerary Overview: 7 Days, a Solo Deep Dive

Travel Dates: March 29 – April 4, 2012 (7 days)
Travelers: Just me
Total Cost: Approximately 5,600 RMB (including 2,800 RMB for flights)

Day 1–2: Kunming Stopover, First Taste of the Spring City

• Strolling by Dianchi Lake, watching seagulls skim the water
• Exploring the Stone Forest (Shilin) Scenic Area, marveling at nature's craftsmanship
• Relaxing at Cuihu Park, experiencing Kunming's slow-paced life
• Hiking to the top of Xishan (Western Hills) for a panoramic view of Dianchi Lake
• Sitting on Haigeng Dam, lost in thought as the sun set

Day 3–4: Lugu Lake, the Call of the Eastern Matriarchal Kingdom

With limited time, I opted for a two-day group tour. That decision introduced me to friends from all over China—a young woman from Beijing who had quit her job to travel, a retired teacher touring the country with his parents, and a couple who had met on the road and had been married for three years. Sometimes, strangers offer the most genuine warmth.

Day 5: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Yulong Xueshan) Day Trip

Standing at the Glacier Park at 4,680 meters above sea level, my breath grew short, but my mind was calmer than ever. The snow-capped mountain had stood in silence for millions of years, and here I was—a mere speck in the river of time. That sense of insignificance was oddly liberating.

Day 6: Lashihai Ancient Tea Horse Road + Shuhe Ancient Town

I rode a horse along the historic Tea Horse Road, the clatter of hooves echoing on the cobblestones. In the afternoon, I moved on to Shuhe Ancient Town, which felt less commercial and more peaceful. I stumbled upon a field of blooming rapeseed flowers—a brilliant yellow that almost made me cry.

Day 7: Farewell, with Tears and Hope

On the last night, I walked into a bar called "2046." The singer's voice was ethereal, as clear as the Lijiang night sky. When I saw men dedicating songs to the women they loved, tears suddenly streamed down my face—not because of a broken heart, but because I was struck by pure, unguarded emotion. The singer misunderstood and sang an encouraging song for me. But he wasn't wrong: Lijiang is a magical place where strangers and unfamiliar surroundings make you drop all your defenses and just cry it out.

Impressions of Lijiang: Lazy, Cozy, and Those Misunderstood Dogs

Lijiang is a place that makes you lazy. In the alleys flanked by cobblestone streets, time seems to stretch. Even the dogs here live carefree lives: tired, they plop down in the middle of the road to soak up the sun; hungry, they gaze at you with innocent eyes, making you willingly go hungry just to feed them. I saw a golden retriever lying at the entrance of a guesthouse all afternoon, not even changing its position.

The small bridges and flowing water of Dayan Ancient Town are as gentle as a Song Dynasty poem. Dongba wish wind chimes tinkled in the breeze, each bell carrying a story. I hung one, writing: "I hope next time I come, I won't be alone."

Practical Tips: For Those Who Want to Set Off Alone Too

Transportation

• If there's no direct flight to Lijiang, a stopover in Kunming is a good option. The train from Kunming to Lijiang is also convenient—overnight sleeper cars can save you a night's accommodation.
• The winding mountain road to Lugu Lake has the famous "Eighteen Bends." If you get carsick, bring medication.

Accommodation

• There are plenty of guesthouses in Lijiang's old town. I recommend one with a courtyard. I stayed at "Tingyuxuan" (Listening to the Rain Pavilion), which had a tatami-style loft. Sitting on the second floor, sipping tea and stargazing, was pure bliss.
• The "Kitty Guesthouse" in Shuhe Ancient Town is also worth a try. The owner has a very affectionate cat.

Food

- A'an Yogurt (阿安酸奶) took me a while to find—sweet and tangy, perfect with a spoonful of honey. - Smoked Pork Rib Hotpot (腊排骨火锅) is a Lijiang specialty, but it's a bit wasteful for one person. I'd recommend sharing with a group.

Attractions

• Lige Peninsula (里格半岛) on Lugu Lake is a photographer's paradise. The impossibly blue water will make you question your eyes.
• The water at Blue Moon Valley (蓝月谷) is Tiffany blue, with the snow-capped mountain reflected in it—unreal in its beauty.
• The cable car to Gemu Goddess Mountain (格姆女神山) is open-air. If you're afraid of heights, think twice—my palms were sweating the whole ride.

Budget

• Flights are the biggest expense; booking early can save you a lot.
• Group tours are convenient, but independent travel offers a deeper experience. If you have time, stay overnight at Lugu Lake to catch the sunrise and sunset.
• Prices in Lijiang's old town aren't too high—a cup of coffee costs around 30 RMB, and a simple meal about 50 RMB.

In the End: The Meaning of Travel Is Never About Romance

Many people ask me, "Did you go to Lijiang alone to find a romantic encounter?" I always shake my head with a smile. The meaning of travel is never about meeting someone else—it's about meeting yourself.

Watching the sunrise over Lugu Lake, I understood what it means when "heaven and earth have great beauty but do not speak." Struggling for breath on the snowy mountain, I learned the value of perseverance. Crying in that bar, I made peace with loneliness.

Lijiang is a place like that: it won't hand you answers, but it gives you the space to find them. Those dogs sunbathing on the cobblestones, the wish chimes swaying in the wind, the strangers singing in the bar—they've all become the gentlest footnotes in my memory.

On the day I left, I mailed myself a postcard from the ancient town. On it, I wrote: "One day, I'll come back with my Pangjin Ge."—a term from the Naxi people of Lijiang, meaning "beloved one."

Looking back now, that "Pangjin Ge" might not be a person at all. It might be the version of myself who finally learned to set off alone, to face things alone, and to grow alone.

If you're hesitating about traveling solo, my advice is this: buy a ticket and go. Lijiang won't let you down. And you? You'll surprise yourself.

Author's Note: This article is based on a real travel experience from March 2012. If you have any questions about traveling to Lijiang, feel free to leave a comment, and I'll reply as soon as possible. For more travel stories, follow my Weibo account @Julia想环游世界.

This travelogue is copyrighted by @Julia想环游世界. Any reproduction must be authorized by the author.