Boundless Lotus Leaves Reaching the Sky – A Midsummer Return to Puzhehei

"There are only two things in this world worth never letting down: beautiful scenery and beautiful people." This saying fits Puzhehei perfectly.

Last winter, I embarked on my first journey to southeastern Yunnan, making a brief two-day stop in Puzhehei. The lotus flowers hadn't bloomed yet, and the sky was a dreary gray. Though the scenery was still unforgettable, something felt missing—that spectacular midsummer vista of "boundless lotus leaves reaching the sky." So this August, catching the tail end of the lotus season, I set off again, dedicating three full days to Puzhehei, staying two nights, determined to see everything worth seeing.

The high-speed train from my departure point to Puzhehei Station took over six hours, leaving only the middle day for true exploration. Yet even so, this journey was absolutely worth every penny.

First Impressions: Free Entry, But Strategy Matters

Puzhehei Scenic Area is free to enter and encompasses three villages: Puzhehei Village, Xianrendong (Fairy Cave) Village, and Bailianshan (White Lotus Mountain) Village. Most visitors choose to stay in Puzhehei Village, as the main attractions cluster nearby—Green Dragon Mountain, Lovers' Bridge, and the filming location made famous by the TV drama Eternal Love ("Three Lives, Three Worlds, Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms"), which requires a separate 30 RMB ticket.

Xianrendong Village offers relatively lackluster scenery and can be skipped if time is tight. As for Bailianshan Village, frankly, it's essentially abandoned, with only a few separate, fee-charging lotus ponds scattered around—eerily quiet and empty.

If you want to take a boat tour, you'll need to purchase a separate ticket. The scenic area offers eastern, western, and central routes, with summer tickets around 200 RMB. But don't balk at the price just yet—this ticket includes a full day's access to the sightseeing buses and a free ticket to Swan Lake (which costs 85 RMB on its own). Considering a single stop on the sightseeing bus costs 10 RMB, the boat ticket is actually the best value. And the views from the boats? They're the absolute highlight of Puzhehei.

Day 1: From High-Speed Rail to Puzhehei – A Race Against Time

Arriving in Puzhehei: Transportation and Accommodation

I set off on Saturday. Puzhehei is a small station with very few direct high-speed trains—I couldn't secure a ticket no matter how long I waited for cancellations, so I ended up transferring at Nanning East Station. After exiting the station, turn right and you'll see Bus Route 8, which goes directly to Puxin Bridge at the entrance of Puzhehei Village. Whatever you do, don't take the tram—it only goes to the Visitor Center, which is still a long way from Puzhehei Village. Unless you've bought a boat ticket and can use the sightseeing bus for free that day, buying individual sightseeing bus tickets will leave your wallet weeping.

The bus rattled along for 50 minutes before finally stopping near Puxin Bridge. It was already past 4 PM when I got off. I'd only had a bowl of instant noodles on the train that morning, and my stomach was growling. Spotting a Yihetang (a popular tea shop), I dashed in for a milk tea to tide me over before heading to find my hotel and drop off my luggage.

My hotel was booked near Lovers' Bridge. Accommodation in Puzhehei is almost entirely guesthouses. This particular one, even at a discounted rate, cost over 200 RMB. When I got inside, the room layout was bizarre—the two beds weren't side by side; one was in the outer room, the other in the inner room. The soundproofing was atrocious—I could hear everything outside early in the morning, and the ceiling light flickered occasionally even when switched off. Completely not worth the price. The next day, I quickly switched to a nearby guesthouse for just over 160 RMB, which was much quieter.

Lovers' Bridge and the Eternal Love Filming Site: A Terrible Decision

After dropping my bags, it was just past 5 PM. Sunset wasn't until around 7:30, so I figured I had two hours. My plan was to visit the Eternal Love filming site first, then head to Green Dragon Mountain for sunset. As it turned out, this was a disastrous decision.

First, I stopped by Lovers' Bridge. This bridge is a must-pass point for both the eastern route's willow-leaf boats and the central route's painted barges—both types of vessels glide beneath it, offering lovely views. I rented a Meituan electric scooter and rode two kilometers to the Eternal Love filming site. By the time I reached the ticket booth, it was already 6:10 PM. The ticket seller advised me not to go in—they start clearing visitors at 6:30. But I'd come all this way, so I stubbornly bought a ticket anyway.

The result? Harsh backlighting everywhere. I had only twenty minutes before being kicked out at exactly 6:30 PM—staff followed behind me the whole time, rushing me along, leaving no chance to actually enjoy the place. The artificial structures inside charge 100 RMB per photo, per person. A total rip-off. I reached the fake peach tree just as the clock struck 6:30, and the staff started frantically herding everyone out. I had to backtrack the way I came. Last time I visited, I also didn't have time to go deeper in, and here I was, making the same mistake again.

This attraction is mostly man-made. There's only a tiny patch of lotus flowers, tucked away in an inconvenient spot. Honestly, it's completely skippable.

Green Dragon Mountain Sunset: A Complete Miss

I emerged from the Eternal Love site at 6:45 PM. The weather forecast said sunset was around 7:40. I was frantic, like an ant on a hot pan, quickly scanning for an electric scooter to race to Green Dragon Mountain. But the scooters have designated riding zones. The shortest route was outside the zone, forcing me to take a long detour back through Puzhehei Village. Trying to save time, I took a small path—which led straight into a rice paddy. The road got narrower and narrower until I had to get off and push the scooter. The most frustrating part? When I finally made it back to the main road, I found myself on the opposite side of Lovers' Bridge, where there were no parking spots. I had to go back to the original parking point. Lovers' Bridge is all stairs, with no wheelchair access—the scooter couldn't cross. I had to physically haul the heavy scooter up and over the stairs. By the time I finished this ordeal, it was 7:10 PM. Walking to Green Dragon Mountain would take at least another half hour, plus 20 minutes to climb. I had completely missed my chance.

Later, I learned that Green Dragon Mountain isn't actually an ideal spot for watching the sunset anyway—a taller peak conveniently blocks the view. The forecast's 7:40 PM sunset refers to the horizon, but from Green Dragon Mountain, you can't see the horizon. The sun disappears behind the mountain as early as 7:20. So even if I hadn't run into all those problems, going to the Eternal Love site first meant I was never going to make the sunset. My first day's plan was a complete disaster from start to finish.

An Unexpected Surprise at Lovers' Bridge

After giving up on Green Dragon Mountain, I wandered around near Lovers' Bridge and discovered another bridge just 200 meters away that offered a perfect sunset viewing spot. Unfortunately, by the time I got there, it was 7:33 PM—the sun had just set. I'd missed it again. This day was just cursed.

The Iron Flower Performance: Fire in the Night

I bought a ticket for the Iron Flower (Datiehua) performance on Douyin (TikTok's Chinese version). When I called to ask about the start time, the person just said, "Around 8 PM." I walked from Lovers' Bridge to Green Dragon Mountain Pier. At 8 PM, the ticket checker said it probably wouldn't start until 8:20—they were waiting for the night cruise boats to return to the pier. After the Iron Flower performance, there was also a fire pot show and a dance performance. When it was all over, I could take a free sightseeing bus back to Puxin Bridge. I found a restaurant by the river near the bridge and had dinner. The atmosphere was pleasant enough, finally putting a not-so-terrible end to the day.

Day 2: Boats, Swan Lake, and Green Dragon Mountain – Finally On Track

Switching Hotels and Setting Out

The previous night's hotel was truly unbearable. Early the next morning, I booked the quieter one next door for just over 160 RMB, checked out at noon, and moved my luggage. To save time, I grabbed a quick bowl of noodles in Puzhehei Village and set off.

On the day you take a boat, you get free, all-day access to the sightseeing buses. After lunch, I flagged down a sightseeing bus by the roadside and rode to Xihuang Wetland Pier. The buses operate in segments—you ride a short distance, get off, re-validate your ticket, and transfer. Xihuang Wetland Pier was far away, requiring two transfers.

Western Route Bamboo Raft: Deep into the Lotus

The western route bamboo rafts run between Xihuang Wetland Pier and Donghua Fenglin (East China Peak Forest) Pier, operating in both directions. Donghua Fenglin Pier is right by Swan Lake's Entrance 1, so we chose to board at Xihuang Wetland Pier and disembark at Donghua Fenglin Pier, heading straight into Swan Lake.

The bamboo rafts can navigate deep into the lotus clusters, stopping twice along the way so you can photograph the flowers up close. The whole trip takes about an hour. The distance isn't long, but the extended stops make for a fantastic experience. Compared to the central route's painted barges, the western route bamboo rafts offer a much more unique perspective—the lotus flowers are right beside you, almost within arm's reach. Though, when the rafts go too deep, they inevitably crush some of the flowers along the edges, which is a bit heartbreaking to see.

Swan Lake: A Three-Kilometer Stunning Hike

A Swan Lake ticket costs 85 RMB, but it's free if you've bought a boat ticket. The lake has two entrances: Entrance 1 at the western route's Donghua Fenglin Pier, and Entrance 2 at the sightseeing bus transfer hub, Pucao Tang (Reed Grass Pond) Pier. It's a one-way route—enter at Entrance 1, exit at Entrance 2, covering three kilometers in total. While it's a considerable distance, it's absolutely worth walking the entire way. The scenery is so beautiful it's hard to tear your eyes away. Shortly after entering Entrance 1, I spotted a small hill that looked remarkably like Elephant Trunk Hill in Guilin.

Exiting Swan Lake at Entrance 2 brings you to Pucao Tang Pier. Helicopter rides are available here, costing a few hundred RMB depending on the duration. By the time I reached Pucao Tang Pier, it was past 5 PM—too early for Green Dragon Mountain. I debated whether to go to Bailianshan Village to see the lotus flowers, but remembering how adding just one extra stop had thrown off my entire previous day, I decided to take it slow and head to Green Dragon Mountain to wait for sunset.

Green Dragon Mountain: Worth Seeing, Even Without the Sunset

Green Dragon Mountain is free to enter and has two trailheads. After getting off the sightseeing bus, the closer trailhead actually involves a longer walk. If you keep going, past Qingqiu Huabi (Mural Cave), the trailhead near Green Dragon Mountain Pier is shorter but steeper. Going up from that trailhead, there are two viewing platforms offering panoramic views of Puzhehei Village, while the platform at the summit overlooks the Eternal Love filming site and is also where people watch the sunset. I recommend going up from the Green Dragon Mountain Pier trailhead to see the panoramic views first—otherwise, you'll be descending in the dark after sunset.

Before climbing, I tried a local specialty: fried lotus flower. It wasn't good—mostly batter, with just a thin sliver of lotus petal in the middle. Going up from the trailhead near Green Dragon Mountain Pier, the first viewing platform already offers a stunning, wide-open panorama of Puzhehei Village. It's truly spectacular. At the summit, several platforms overlook the Eternal Love filming site, but only one has a decent view—the others are blocked by trees.

However, watching the sunset from Green Dragon Mountain really isn't ideal. Directly opposite is the Eternal Love filming site, which faces south—completely missing the sunset. The spot on the right side where you can see the sunset is blocked by a tall mountain peak. And before the sun gets blocked, it's still too high, the light is too harsh, and photos come out with severe backlighting, completely lacking that sunset glow.

I waited until it was nearly dark, then descended the other side. There was another viewing platform along the way with a view of Puzhehei Village, but it was more obstructed and the vista was just average. After coming down, the sightseeing buses had already stopped running, so I had to walk back to Puzhehei Village. I'd planned to eat at Puxin Bridge, but on the way, I saw a restaurant advertising lotus leaf steamed chicken and wanted to try it. When I went in, they said it wasn't available. I ended up ordering soy milk chicken instead—I'd had it on my last visit, but this place's version wasn't as authentic.

Day 3: Xianrendong Village and Bailianshan Village – A Quick Wrap-Up

On my last day, I had to catch the high-speed train. I left my guesthouse at 11 AM without lunch and went straight to Puxin Bridge to catch a bus to Xianrendong Village. Both Bus 3 and Bus 8 go there. Bus 8 charges a flat 5 RMB no matter how far you go, but since I was only going one stop, I chose Bus 3, which cost just 3 RMB.

Xianrendong Village: Quiet, But with Lotus Flowers

The bus doesn't stop right at the village entrance—you need to walk a few minutes. The village was much quieter than Puzhehei Village. Just inside the entrance, there's a large lotus pond, which was a nice highlight. Walking further in, there were plenty of restaurants and shops, but very few people. It felt lifeless. I bought a cup of bamboo tube milk tea for 28 RMB and took the bamboo tube home as a souvenir. The village is small; after one quick loop, there wasn't much else to see.

Bailianshan Village: Surprisingly Desolate

I took Bus 3 from the bus stop to Bailianshan Village. This village felt completely abandoned—incredibly desolate, with almost no tourists, all the shops shuttered, and no restaurants or guesthouses in sight. The only things around were a few fenced-off lotus ponds along the roadside, charging around 20 RMB per person. My time was limited, and after two straight days of lotus viewing, I was starting to suffer from aesthetic fatigue, so I didn't go in—just looked from the roadside. Walking into the village, there was absolutely no one. Not a single shop was open. The contrast with bustling Puzhehei Village was stark. Even the visitor center was locked tight.

I waited at the bus stop for Bus 8 to take me to the high-speed rail station. I waited over half an hour—Bus 3 came four or five times, but not a single Bus 8. I was about to call a taxi when, just as I'd booked one, a Bus 8 finally appeared. I quickly cancelled the taxi and hopped on the bus.

Final Thoughts: Puzhehei Deserves to Be Savored Slowly

This three-day, two-night trip to Puzhehei felt more than generous in terms of time, and I got to explore it quite deeply. Even though I'd visited once before in winter, the summer scenery, with lotus flowers in full bloom, was an entirely different world.

I basically saw everything worth seeing. My top recommendations are the boat ride and Swan Lake—as always, the places you pay for are the most beautiful. Green Dragon Mountain is also worth a visit, even if it's not great for sunset. The panoramic view of Puzhehei Village from the top is unique. As for the Eternal Love filming site, there's really no need to go—it has almost no lotus flowers, only artificial structures, is in an inconvenient location, and is hard to get to.

Puzhehei is a place to enjoy slowly, to savor on a leisurely vacation. Two nights is just the right amount of time—no rush, no hurry. Only then can you truly appreciate its beauty. If I get another chance, I'd love to come back. After all, there are only two things in this world worth never letting down: beautiful scenery and beautiful people. And in midsummer Puzhehei, you get both.