By Cangshan and Erhai, Hand in Hand and Laughing Out Loud — A Journey About Slowing Down

The long-distance bus wound along the mountain roads, the scenery outside the window unrolling like a slow-moving scroll. I leaned back in my seat, and a thought suddenly surfaced in my mind: Everything before my eyes is something I'm seeing for the very first time — what an extravagant stroke of luck. Perhaps this is what travel is really about: meeting the unknown version of yourself on unfamiliar ground.

This trip started in Chengdu, passed through Shaxi Ancient Town in Jianchuan and Dali Old Town, then followed the lakeside road all the way to Haitong Park, and climbed deep into the Cangshan Mountains to visit Jizhao Nunnery and Bolo Temple. It was July in Yunnan — the sun was blazing, the wind carried the moisture of Erhai Lake, and the sound of us holding hands and laughing filled the air.

Pre-Trip Prep: The Little Things You Need to Know

Getting There and Routes

Getting to Shaxi Ancient Town isn't exactly convenient right now. We only realized after booking our flights from Chengdu to Dali that Shaxi is actually much closer to Lijiang. If you're planning to visit Shaxi, make sure to map out your route in advance — don't make the same mistake we did and take the long way around.

Packing Essentials

Yunnan's sun is generous to a fault, and the UV rays hit hard. Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat — none of these are optional. The temperature swings between day and night mean a light jacket is a must. During the rainy season, the weather changes on a dime, so an umbrella that doubles as sun protection is a lifesaver. The air is dry, so face masks are practically a survival tool. And don't forget insect repellent — the mosquitoes in the mountains have no manners.

Camera Gear

This time I brought a Sony A7R2 with two prime lenses — an 85mm and a 35mm — plus a Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera and my phone. I also packed two tripods (one large, one small), both from Manfrotto. But honestly, the most beautiful moments are often captured with your eyes and your heart.

Douzi's Travel Outfit Tips

People always ask me in my social feeds: "Do you plan your outfits before every trip?" As someone who loves dressing up, I can tell you with confidence: absolutely!

First, get a sense of your destination's architecture and atmosphere. Dali, in my mind, is a place with a certain artistic flair — backed by the Cangshan Mountains and facing Erhai Lake, it's one of the best spots in China for travel photography. Match your clothes to the local vibe and the weather, and you'll likely end up with some great shots.

It was July, so summer dresses were the star of the show. They photograph well and save you the headache of coordinating outfits. But no matter what, bring a jacket — you'll need it for the temperature drop at night, and it works for sun protection too. Accessories like sunglasses and hats are perfect for adding style. My personal favorite is a big canvas tote bag — practical and photogenic. As for shoes, bring one to three pairs that go with your outfits. At the end of the day, the most important thing is to have fun.

Shaxi Ancient Town in Jianchuan: Slow Time on the Ancient Tea Horse Road

Sunset at Yujin Bridge

From Chengdu to Dali, then a transfer to Shaxi — it was a bumpy ride. An hour earlier, it was pouring rain; then, out of nowhere, the sun came out. The innkeeper recommended we head to Yujin Bridge for sunset, saying the whole town was small enough to walk across quickly. Well — we still managed to get lost, the two of us directionally challenged as we are. After some detours, we finally made it, and the sight hit us instantly. The water under the bridge reflected the golden glow of the setting sun, with layered mountains stretching into the distance. In that moment, every bit of exhaustion was worth it.

Shaxi Ancient Town is a key stop on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, and you can go horseback riding there. Sixty yuan for about 30 minutes — cheap enough to make you do a double take.

When it got dark, our stomachs started growling. We went to a restaurant called "Longfeng Ruiying Qingzhen Beef." The owner was incredibly warm, and she was also the one doing the cooking. We ordered a hot pot for two: one plate of beef, one plate of lotus root and potatoes, and one plate of greens. Back in Chengdu, the two of us would normally order about ten dishes for hot pot, so seeing just three plates made me skeptical. The table next to us ordered a plate of century eggs. We exchanged glances and silently agreed: "Boss, we'll take one of those too!" In the end — we were stuffed, and the bill was only 100 yuan. The owner really wasn't kidding about the "hot pot for two."

Fanghe Inn: The Warmth of Wood

That night, we stayed at Fanghe Inn for 432 yuan a night. Clean room, warm wood tones, a comfortable bathtub — the style was exactly what we like. I sat in the courtyard writing in my travel journal, looking up at the blue sky, listening to the drip of water from the stone mill, with a gray cat wandering around my feet. Time just slowed down.

The Adventure in Hualong Village

We got up early the next day, left at 7:30, and the weather was very overcast. We tried taking some photos, but they didn't turn out well, and we even had a little argument. Just then, the sun miraculously broke through the clouds. We got excited, snapped some shots, and headed back to the inn for breakfast — perfect timing.

Around 4 p.m., we rode horses to Hualong Village, hoping to get a panoramic view of Shaxi. It was my first time on a horse, and I felt completely off-balance, swaying left and right. The owner said, "The horse will rock as it walks — just relax and go with the flow. Don't be scared." — Ahhh, easier said than done!

When we reached the end, the horse guide said it was worth walking a bit further for some great photos. We figured, why not? After about five minutes, we were deeper into the woods — the path got narrower, the trees taller and denser, and the wind howled through them. Pan, who's usually pretty brave, kept looking back, but we both hid our fear, not wanting to scare each other. And then — we ended up going downhill! As it got dark, we sat dejectedly on a rice paddy ridge, laughing about the whole misadventure.

Waiting for the Wind Inn: Warmth from a Chengdu Girl

That night, we checked into Waiting for the Wind Inn for 496 yuan a night. It was the most comfortable stay of the entire trip. The manager was a girl from Chengdu who ran the place beautifully. That day, we were woken up by the rain in Shaxi. After a hearty breakfast, we brewed tea in the tea room and waited for the skies to clear. But by noon, the rain still hadn't stopped, so we threw caution to the wind and took some photos in the rain — and ended up loving them.

Lansheng Inn: Reflecting on Restlessness

Shaxi Ancient Town is tiny. If you treat it like a tourist spot, you could finish it in a day — or even half a day. We read the guides and decided to stay for three nights to experience local life. But once we got there, I realized I lacked that sense of ease. I kept thinking about taking photos, editing, and cutting videos. Sigh — my restlessness has really gotten under my skin.

To force myself to slow down, I didn't plan anything special for the day. I sat in a café at Sifang Street, drinking coffee and watching the people pass by, then grabbed a milk and corn pancake from an old lady at the street corner. Lansheng Inn was 347 yuan a night, and the stay was average, but the deliberate act of slowing down was something worth remembering.

Dali: Freedom on the Lakeside Road

From Shaxi to Dali

From Shaxi to Dali, we took a minibus from a chain hotel — 65 yuan per person, about two hours, convenient and affordable. We lingered in Shaxi until the afternoon before reluctantly leaving, arriving in Dali around 5 p.m.

Cycling Erhai: The Black Smart Car Adventure

We slept in until 10 the next day. I'd been to Dali two years before, and the old town didn't hold much appeal for us. We walked to the familiar Erhai Gate, saw a nice inn, and checked in. We rented a black Smart car: 300 yuan for 24 hours, plus 60 yuan for insurance, totaling 360 yuan. The deposit was 500 yuan, and we needed a driver's license. Good thing I was driving — Pan really wanted to drive around the lake, but he'd forgotten his license. And sure enough, we got pulled over by a traffic cop halfway through. Phew.

The route: Dali Old Town (Erhai Gate) — Xizhou — Shuanglang — Wase — East Lakeside Road — Dali Old Town. Half a day isn't nearly enough to circle the lake — it's way too rushed. Our first stop was Xizhou, less than 30 minutes from the old town. There were tons of great photo spots along the way. I brought about three or four outfits — one set is never enough!

At a turn near Wase, we'd taken a favorite photo two years ago. Now, the trees around it had grown so tall you could barely see the people. By the time we reached Wase, it was already getting dark. We spent most of the East Lakeside Road just racing home, missing the daytime lake views. A bit of a bummer.

Haitong Park: Time Changes Everything

The next day, we woke up at 9 again and didn't pack up until 10. I thought, Oh no, we're too late. But I didn't want to give up, so we just tried to hurry. When we realized it was almost noon and we still hadn't reached Xizhou, we decided to extend the rental for another day. The stress of rushing had been weighing on us, but once we extended, it felt like a relief — even though it meant spending a day and a half circling the lake and paying for two days of rental. Ouch. My advice: get up early and give yourself a full day. We're the perfect example of what not to do.

Around 2 p.m., we reached Haitong Park and had lunch. Two years ago, we'd taken a favorite photo here and wanted to recreate it as a keepsake. Click! Time had changed everything — the dead tree had shifted shape, the grass on the embankment had grown taller, and Pan had put on some weight!

It was basically a queue for photos, but a group of older ladies showed up and didn't care at all — they just walked right into the frame and started posing. Luckily, I'd finished before they arrived. We spent the whole afternoon at Haitong Park, taking photos and then just sitting there, staring at the lake and zoning out. It was incredibly relaxing. I was happy to realize I was starting to enjoy the trip.

As it got dark, we headed back to the old town, satisfied. But just two kilometers from the gate, the car suddenly broke down. It was my first time dealing with something like that, and I was panicking. We called the rental company, and they were great — arrived in about ten minutes, loaded us and our luggage into their car, drove us to the office, and swapped out the vehicle. The whole process took less than half an hour. Good thing we were close to the old town — it could have been a disaster.

Climbing Cangshan: From Jizhao Nunnery to Bolo Temple

Jizhao Nunnery: Succulents and Vegetarian Meals

Jizhao Nunnery has become a trendy spot in Dali. We arrived around 1 p.m., and the courtyard was packed. There were so many succulents, and people were standing, sitting, and squatting everywhere, eating bowls of vegetarian rice. Just as we were about to buy two bowls, we were told they'd sold out. Oh well — we took some photos and moved on.

Hiking to Bolo Temple: Conquering Fear

Aside from the cable car crowd, most tourists only go as far as Jizhao Nunnery. The temples further up are harder to find, so you have to ask around. That day, we ran into three police officers, and I grilled them until I understood the route. They said, "If you really can't find the way halfway, remember to turn back and stay safe." I joked, "If I get lost, I'll call 110!"

After passing a signpost, there were barely any people left, just trees all around. At first, I was a little scared. My mind kept racing: What if there's a creep hiding in the woods? What if there's a dangerous animal? I almost gave up — not because I was tired, but out of pure fear. Pan kept encouraging me, and eventually, I found the courage to push through.

Turns out, I was overthinking it. The trail was pretty wide and clearly used. According to the monk at Bolo Temple, locals even hike that route on weekends to climb Cangshan. On the way down, we met two local women carrying firewood home. So if you're thinking of going, don't worry — just go for it.

From Jizhao Nunnery to Bolo Temple, it took about an hour and a half. Near the temple, we saw a spectacular canyon. We sat there for 20 minutes, catching our breath and staring at the view across the gorge. That feeling of overcoming yourself — it's incredible.

Bolo Temple: A Warm Dinner

Just past the canyon, we spotted Bolo Temple. As soon as we reached the gate, an elderly man came out and asked in the local dialect if we wanted some water. In that moment, I felt like a hiking hero.

Inside the temple, you could see the whole courtyard at a glance. A monk came out to greet us and asked where we were from. As it turned out, he was also from Chengdu, Sichuan. He used to be a clinical doctor, then studied law, and now lives permanently at Dayun Hall in Dali. The other monk who stays at Bolo Temple is his senior — someone truly admirable. Two laypeople also live there, taking care of the senior monk's daily needs. Oh, and there's a little yellow dog — super friendly, so excited that he accidentally scratched Pan's leg with his teeth.

We chatted with the monk for a while and were about to leave when the senior monk told us they'd made dinner and asked if we wanted to stay and eat. Wow — what an honor! So the six of us sat around a small table in the kitchen. The main dish was simple, light stir-fried mushrooms, and the green vegetable soup was a hit. There was also homemade salted tofu made by an elderly woman — delicious and perfect with rice. She told us it was the rainy season, so the greens weren't at their best.

After eating, we washed our own dishes, thanked the monk and the elderly couple, and headed down the mountain. Looking back, it was truly a magical day.

Epilogue: The Meaning of Travel

I'll go to bed early tonight — we have to get up tomorrow morning to catch our flight back to Chengdu. Yeah, I'm going to miss this place. Goodnight.

I hope I can keep up the habit of writing a travel journal on future trips, and keep it concise. This one got a bit long, but I couldn't bear to cut any of the memories.

I hope this helps you somehow. Bye for now — see you in the next journal.

A Final Thought

This trip taught me something: the meaning of travel isn't about how many places you've been or how many photos you've taken. It's about those moments that make you slow down. Taking photos in the rain in Shaxi, chatting on a rice paddy ridge in Hualong Village, staring at the lake in Haitong Park, sharing a simple dinner at Bolo Temple — these seemingly ordinary moments are the most precious part of any journey.

If you're planning a trip to Yunnan, don't forget your sunscreen, a jacket, a good attitude, and a heart willing to slow down. By Cangshan and Erhai, holding hands and laughing out loud — that's the best scenery of all.