Changchun → West & North Slopes of Changchun → Yanji: A "Zen" Travel Guide for Lazy Travelers Who Want to Maximize Fun

Some say travel is about making peace with yourself — no need to rush, just feel. I'd add that when four "zen" young people decide to head north, a magical journey unfolds involving Heaven Lake on Changbai Mountain, northeastern cuisine, and the unique charm of Yanbian. No tight schedules, no 4 AM alarms — just spontaneous joy and little blessings along the way.

If you're tired of "special forces-style" travel and want to find ease among mountains and waters, this ultra-detailed guide is for you.

Before You Go: Why Changbai Mountain?

Heaven Lake on Changbai Mountain has always felt like a legend hidden in clouds — mysterious, beautiful, and somewhat elusive. Word has it that it only shows its face less than a third of the year, making it the ultimate dream destination for travelers. In late July 2018, my three friends and I spontaneously decided to head from Beijing to the cool northeastern paradise.

This trip lasted 9 days, with an average cost of about 2,500 RMB per person (excluding airfare). We visited Changchun's Puppet Emperor's Palace, both the West and North Slopes of Changbai Mountain, and ended in Yanji's lively atmosphere. Entirely "zen" in approach, yet incredibly rewarding.

Step 1: Pre-Trip Preparation — Supplies Before Departure

🚗 Transportation: From Soft Sleeper Trains to Chartered GL8s, We Were Serious

Originally we planned to fly directly to Changbai Mountain Airport, but our flight was inexplicably changed from morning to the next evening — cue the confused emoji face. We immediately canceled and switched to trains, which turned out to be the most leisurely part of the trip.

• Beijing → Changchun: Z63 soft sleeper train, departing at 8:50 PM, arriving at 6:04 AM the next day. A good night's sleep saved us one night's accommodation.
• Changchun → Songjianghe: The only daily K7388 soft sleeper, departing at 3:18 PM, arriving at 3:22 AM. Note: power outlets are in the corridor and work intermittently — make sure your power bank is fully charged.
• Local Transport: We booked a GL8 charter service on Fliggy, including Songjianghe station pickup, round trips to West Slope, West Slope to North Slope, round trips to North Slope, and Baihe to Yanji hotel — total 2,500 RMB. Book tickets at least a month in advance during peak season; Ctrip's pre-order ticket function is reliable.

🏨 Accommodation: From American-Style Town to Korean-Style Bay Window — Every Night Was a Surprise

• Changchun (July 29-30): Yake Xiaozhen (Changchun Street Branch), Countryside Twin Room. American-style decor, well-stocked amenities, but front desk was a bit slow.
• West Slope Changbai Mountain (July 31): Wanda Zhi Xuan Holiday Inn, Garden View Twin Room. Located in Wanda Resort area, standard star-rated hotel, mediocre breakfast, remote location.
• North Slope Changbai Mountain (August 1): Eight Zero Hou Boutique Inn, Family Quadruple Room. On the edge of town (the owner almost argued with me about this), but clean rooms, and the owner kindly helped carry luggage.
• Yanji (August 3-5): Lanxi Hotel, Business Standard Room. Opened in 2017, excellent location with plenty of food and entertainment nearby. Room has a tatami bay window, free breakfast — superb!

🎒 Packing List: Secrets of a 28-Inch Suitcase

Despite checking the weather and seeing nothing but heat warnings, I brought a 28-inch suitcase — my friends' expressions are unforgettable. Recommended "gadgets":

• Train Essentials: Portable soap sheets, foldable lunch box, cube-shaped six-sided charger (search on Taobao).
• Mountain Essentials: Uniqlo lightweight down jacket (weather on the main peak changes rapidly), UV-protective jacket or light coat, transparent portable rain poncho, soft rubber waterproof shoe covers.

💡 Hidden Gem: Ctrip Changbai Mountain Chat Group

Anyone who books a Changbai Mountain hotel on Ctrip receives a text message to join a group with local guides answering all questions. This group later saved us big time — highly recommended!

July 29: First Impressions of Changchun — From Northeast Tigers to Grilled Cold Noodles

Arrived at 6:04 AM, stored luggage, and headed straight to Jilin Province Northeast Tiger Park.

🐯 Jilin Province Northeast Tiger Park: An "Encounter" with Elk

From Changchun Station, take the subway to Changying Century City Station (transfer tickets need separate purchase; the transfer entrance wasn't open, as annoying as Beijing's Shuangjing Station). Walk 150 meters from the exit to arrive. Ticket: 60 RMB, discounted 30 RMB, WeChat Pay accepted.

The most interesting part was the Bird Garden — all birds free-range, with peacocks, guinea fowl, and parrots strolling on the paths. Even more magical: the herbivore area's elk fence gate was open, and a large and small elk just wandered out! The staff calmly said, "They're free-range." We followed the elk around the entire park, wondering how they'd catch them at night.

The Northeast Tiger area requires a special shuttle bus (included in ticket), but it was too hot, and the tigers just lay around lazily. On the upper platform, you can feed chickens for a few dozen RMB each.

For lunch near the hotel, try a barbecue restaurant next to Huolicheng (Vitality City). Generous meat portions, cheap oysters and scallops, and the sugar-vinegar sesame dipping sauce was a highlight. Afternoon was too hot, so we returned to the hotel for a nap and ordered grilled cold noodles (烤冷面) via delivery to our beds — zen travel officially began.

July 30: Changchun's "Emperor" Experience — Puppet Emperor's Palace Museum

Waking up early, we took a taxi to the Puppet Emperor's Palace Museum. We bought discounted tickets on Ctrip for 75 RMB (full price 80 RMB), only to discover that Beijing residents get half price at 40 RMB with ID — friendly!

We spent 1 RMB on Ctrip's audio guide app, listening while walking, learning stories not found in text. The entire visit left one impression: a dying camel is still bigger than a horse. Emperor is emperor — whether in decline or reform, their treatment is still far better than ordinary people's.

Lunch at Xijiade dumplings, packed up, and departed at 3:18 PM by train for Changbai Mountain.

July 31: Wanda Resort — "Aristocratic" Life on Electric Scooters

Arrived at Songjianghe Station at 3:22 AM. Our charter driver was on time (though a bit late). Slept a bit at the hotel, then got up at 7 AM.

🏔️ Wanda Resort: Freebies + Electric Scooters = Double the Fun

Wanda Zhi Xuan Holiday Inn has two buildings (A and B). Breakfast time was crowded, but you can pack food (only bread slices, cherry tomatoes, eggs, and water).

Hotel included perks: - Changbai Grand Theater Show: 7:30-9:00 PM, closed Mondays. Free tickets with random seating, no assigned seats. For young people, the show was awkward — wouldn't go if not free. - Mountain Cable Car: Exchange tickets at Guosong Service Center, then pay extra for transport to the resort town to ride. Nice mountain views, can see Changbai Mountain in the distance on clear days.

Highly Recommended: Rent an electric scooter at the town service center! The resort is huge; taxis don't use meters and charge 10 RMB per person per ride. Scooters seat 2 people, rent for 4 hours at 200 RMB, full day 300 RMB, deposit 500 RMB, return by 5 PM. Riding one, you'll zip past envious glances, going anywhere without worry.

Dinner at Shanlitun Chaihuo Tiegou Dun (mountain village firewood iron pot stew), ordered a river fish set meal via group coupon. The owner gave us dried blueberries and blueberry wine, plus we tried magical birch sap — a peach-flavored tree juice. The firewood cooking made it a bit warm, but the food was delicious.

August 1: West Slope Changbai Mountain — 1,442 Steps to Heaven Lake

Woke up at 6 AM, departed at 6:30 AM. West Slope is fully controlled — all vehicles must stop at Chixi Visitor Center, then transfer to dedicated buses. Recommended to download the "Changbai Mountain" app to book tickets in advance, scan ID for entry, avoiding queues.

The mountain eco-bus doesn't stop, winding through endless hairpin turns — the driver's skill was jaw-dropping.

🌊 Reaching Heaven Lake: The 1,442-Step Challenge

This was the biggest physical test of the trip — climbing 1,442 steps to Heaven Lake. Every few steps had number markers, but looking at them only made it more tiring; we rested several times. For elderly or children, sedan chairs are available (400 RMB up, 300 RMB down).

At the summit, the weather cooperated, and Heaven Lake appeared before us — truly beautiful, nature's masterpiece. But crowded; taking photos meant waiting, squeezing, and dealing with queue-jumping older folks. Especially many Korean tourists, and particularly rude (spare you the rant here).

Descended to Jinjiang Grand Canyon (Tizi River under repair, Wangchi Lake requires 5-6 km walk — decisively skipped). Dinner at Forest Cabin, authentic northeastern cuisine, huge portions — lesson learned: order cautiously.

August 2: North Slope Changbai Mountain — Hot Springs, Waterfalls, and Underground Forest

Today we woke up even earlier, driving from West to North Slope. Only buses with 18+ seats can go directly to the mountain gate; other vehicles must stop at the visitor center. Our driver was 30 minutes late, plus the 70 km/h speed limit, so we arrived almost at 9 AM — even more crowded.

Since we'd already seen Heaven Lake yesterday, we didn't spend another 80 RMB on the shuttle to see it again. North Slope attractions: Changbai Grand Waterfall, Little Heaven Lake, Green Abyss Pool, Underground Forest.

On the way to the grand waterfall, we passed many hot spring pools, reportedly 83°C. From Little Heaven Lake to Underground Forest, a 1,500-meter forest boardwalk — personally felt no different from Underground Forest.

Descended and headed straight to Laomatou Tiegou Dun (old horse head iron pot stew), ordered big bone sauerkraut pot — sauerkraut not too sour but very fragrant, thumbs up!

💡 Changbai Mountain Climbing Experience Summary

• Sun Protection: Hat + UV jacket + sunscreen — none can be missing.
• After-Sun Repair: Highly recommend Tongrentang after-sun repair mask. Apply on face, then spread over body — amazing effect. Beijing friends buy at Tongrentang specialty stores; out-of-province friends can message me (absolutely authentic counter product, regular price).

August 3: Yanji — The Beginning of a Zen Day

Finally, sleeping in! Driver arrived at 9 AM sharp, about a 3-hour drive. Reminder: use the bathroom before departing; provincial road restrooms are hard to find and unpleasant. Roadside stalls sell local watermelons; our driver bought some to share — the taste was indeed different from Beijing's Daxing variety.

Winding mountain roads led us to Yanji — Chinese-Korean bilingual signs everywhere, felt like Seoul, Korea. Much fewer people — we were satisfied.

🍜 Xingdou Restaurant: "Big" Is the Word

Checked in at Xingdou Restaurant, ordered cold bean noodles (冷豆面) and Korean crying noodles (韩国哭面). Impression: "Big" is the word, I'll say it once. Girls, 2-3 people should share one order — otherwise you can't finish.

Afternoon too hot, returned to hotel to escape the heat. Next-door nail salon for 50 RMB — instantly became a fan. Dinner at Yu Nainai Baofan (grandma Yu's wrapped rice) — need to wrap yourself, average experience, not recommended. Strolled to Youth Square, caught a performance, then watched the Bu'erhatong River night view — Yanji's night is beautiful.

August 4: Yanbian University — Internet-Famous Building and Cat Café

Woke up early, took a taxi to Yanbian University. The main gate has distinctive ethnic features; across the street is the famous internet-famous building — University Town. The campus is large; highlight is the School History Museum (open only Monday to Friday). Heading to the back mountain, we saw the Fine Arts Academy's 2018 graduation exhibition — great for photos.

On the 3rd floor of Building A opposite, a cat-themed café — cats were huge, fat, and utterly silly. Prices weren't low, but worth it for resting and petting cats.

Lunch at Service Building Yanji Cold Noodles (服务大楼延吉冷面) — perfect balance of sweet, sour, and spicy, full marks!

🥩 Heba Barbecue City: Best BBQ in Yanji

Recommended by Dianping (Chinese Yelp), arrived at 5:30 PM and already had to wait. Meat cut and skewered fresh, you grill yourself over charcoal — easy to burn. Sat in the basement level; halfway through, power went out — the server calmly used a flashlight to serve food.

After dinner, walked along the river to Yanxi Bridge Night Market, discovering a new world — all childhood games available, plus a wonderful spinning wheel. Near Yanbian University, found Yanji's only nightclub, had grilled cold noodles at a small shop across the street. While eating, a sudden downpour — the driver said tomorrow would definitely be cooler, but we were leaving.

August 5: Farewell to Yanji — Water Market and West Market

Woke up early for the Water Market morning market (closes after 8 AM). The market stretches along the river — fresh produce, kimchi, breakfast stalls. Ordered beef soup rice — too gamey, not recommended. Near the market is Quanzhou Bibimbap (全州拌饭馆), suitable for general tastes, good reviews.

Bought souvenirs: house-made kimchi 5 RMB/jin, spicy radish 12 RMB/jin. Bought cold noodle concentrate in small individual packs — convenient and hygienic.

Lunch at Seoul 798 on the 6th floor of Baili City — fried dumplings + kimchi Shin Ramyun + half-half fried chicken. Portions一如既往 huge. Afternoon shopping at West Market — basement level for agricultural products: various rice wines, dried fish, noodles. Prices similar to morning market, cheaper than supermarkets.

✈️ Return: Heading Home with Full Bags

Flew from Yanji to Beijing in about 2 hours. Airport is close to the city center, taxi about 20 RMB. Over 8 days across this northeastern land, we saw the majesty of Heaven Lake, experienced resort leisure, and tasted all of Yanji's cuisine. Hope this "zen" guide helps you avoid some pitfalls and gain more joy.

Final Advice: Don't rush your travels. Leave time for yourself, for surprises, for those unexpected beauties. After all, the most beautiful scenery is often on the road — and in your heart.

This is original content based on real travel experiences. Some information may change over time; please refer to actual conditions.