Classic Yunnan Free Independent Travel: Lijiang, Dali, Kunming Ten-Day In-Depth Tour (Pure Practical Guide)

The longing for freedom is an impulse etched into the soul. In late autumn 2018, I, along with three friends from all corners of China, finally embarked on this long-planned Yunnan journey. We chose to set off at the end of October for a simple reason — it's the off-season, fewer crowds, stunning scenery, and the deep autumn colors looked as if nature had knocked over its paint palette. This guide is a "pitfall-avoidance manual" based on my personal experience, hoping to help you take fewer detours and have a more enjoyable trip.

I. Before Departure: Team, Itinerary, and Preparation

Our "Gang of Four" Lineup

The main characters of this trip were four "buddies" with very different personalities:

• "Goddess" (from Shanxi Province): The face of the group, part-time accountant, responsible for managing money and being our model.
• "Bro Kun" (from Hebei Province): The joker and treasurer, always rushing to pay, completely letting loose the whole trip.
• "Little Fatty" (from Henan Province): A foodie and photographer, eating all the local delicacies and capturing amazing shots.
• "Me" (from Shandong Province): Itinerary planner, photographer, general dogsbody — I lost a ton of brain cells.

Four people from different parts of the country coming together because of a travel plan — that's fate in itself.

Itinerary Overview (9-10 Days)

1. Home → Lijiang (Dayan Old Town)
2. Lijiang (Lashi Lake, Shuhe Ancient Town)
3. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (including Blue Moon Valley)
4. Lijiang → Lugu Lake
5. Lugu Lake → Lijiang → Dali
6. Dali (Cangshan Mountain)
7. Dali (Erhai Lake Circumference Tour)
8. Dali (Shikong National Stone Museum) → Kunming
9. Kunming (Rock Climbing, City Center)
10. Kunming → Home

Route Highlights: Enter via Lijiang, exit via Kunming — no backtracking. Covers most classic attractions in Lijiang, Dali, and Kunming. If you don't want to go to Lugu Lake, you can swap it for a two-day trip to Shangri-La. The daily schedule can be flexibly adjusted based on the weather; there's no need to stick rigidly to the plan.

Essential Packing List

• Clothing: Prepare according to the season, but definitely bring a jacket — the temperature difference between morning and evening is significant.
• Shoes: 1-2 pairs of lightweight sneakers. Women can bring an extra pair for photos.
• Sun Protection: Sunscreen, sunglasses, hat, lip balm (Yunnan's UV rays are so strong they'll make you question life).
• Other Items: Umbrella, power bank, ID card (absolutely crucial), plastic bags (for wet clothes), mosquito repellent, flashlight (for fill light in photos).

II. Lijiang: Old Town, Lashi Lake, and the Snow Mountain

1. Arriving in Lijiang: First Impressions of Dayan Old Town

Lijiang city center is about 2,400 meters above sea level. On clear days, the UV rays are extremely strong, so sun protection is a must. It's about 30 kilometers from Sanyi Airport to the city center. You can book an airport transfer online in advance.

About Accommodation: During the off-season, there's no rush to book a room. Take your time wandering through the old town and pick a Naxi-style guesthouse you like. But be warned — Dayan Old Town is all cobblestone streets, and dragging a suitcase is a real pain. If you're sensitive to noise, you can choose Shuhe Ancient Town instead. The roads are wider and it's much quieter.

Old Town Maintenance Fee: Online sources say entering the old town during the day costs 80 RMB per person, but we never encountered any fee collection. If you get stopped, just find another way in — the old town has many entrances. Entering at night is completely free.

We stayed at Jintian International Huayuan, just across the street from the old town. It had an elevator, a loft, and a kitchen. With three guys and one girl, we naturally gave the master bedroom to "Goddess."

2. Lashi Lake and Shuhe: Horseback Riding, Tea, and Sunset

Lashi Lake: About 15 kilometers by taxi from the old town. I heard they might start charging a 130 RMB entrance fee in the future, so go now while you can. Horseback riding along the Ancient Tea Horse Road is the main event. There are three routes (A, B, C), with prices ranging from 100 to 260 RMB per person. We chose the most expensive 260 RMB option, which took about 2.5 hours and covered most of the highlights. The person leading the horse controls the pace, roughly equivalent to walking. Don't be nervous if it's your first time riding.

Important Reminder: After the ride, you'll be led to a free tea tasting. A local lady will explain the customs and culture. The tea tasting is free; you only pay if you buy. We thought the tea was pretty good. They were asking 50 RMB per box, but we found the exact same product on Taobao for just 10 RMB. If you want to buy, negotiate the price first.

Shuhe Ancient Town: Much less crowded than Dayan. There's a river running through the middle, with open-air restaurants lining both banks. The atmosphere is fantastic in the evening. It's a great place for photos, relaxing, and having dinner.

3. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain + Blue Moon Valley: The Disappointment of Not Reaching the 4,680m Summit

Last-Minute Adjustment: We originally planned to visit the snow mountain on the fourth day, but the weather forecast predicted rain. We decisively moved it up a day. This turned out to be a very wise decision.

Transportation: It's about 30 kilometers from Lijiang to the snow mountain. You can book a bus online (60 RMB per person round trip) or take a Didi (one-way about 90 RMB). The entrance fee is 100 RMB per person. You must carry your ID card at all times; you'll need to scan it to take the cable car.

Glacier Park Main Cable Car: Daily visitor numbers are limited, and tickets are sold in time slots. Follow the official WeChat account "Lijiang Tourism Group Booking Center." Tickets for the same day go on sale at 8:00 AM every day. The main cable car + eco-shuttle bus costs 140 RMB per person. Note: You can go later than your booked time but not earlier. For example, if you book a 9:00-9:30 AM slot, you can only board after 9:00 AM.

High Altitude Precautions: The main cable car takes just 10 minutes to ascend from 3,400 meters to 4,500 meters. You can rent a padded jacket (50 RMB per piece, 300 RMB deposit) and buy oxygen canisters (20-25 RMB in the city, 60 RMB on the mountain). Our group of four only bought one canister and barely used it. But if you've never been to high altitudes, take it slow. Getting winded after just a few steps is normal. Due to heavy snow, we couldn't make it to the highest point at 4,680 meters — a real disappointment.

Blue Moon Valley: You can get there on the scenic area's eco-shuttle bus; it's included in the combo ticket. Explore from the bottom up. The scenery is stunning. There are lots of wedding photos being taken there — you can steal their camera angles.

For the return trip, you can take the "Route 7" bus (actually a private minibus). Remember to return your rented jacket.

III. Lugu Lake: Two-Day Circumference Tour, Sunset, and Starry Sky

Lugu Lake was the most important destination for me on this trip, and also the hardest to plan for two days. The following is all practical advice, so please read carefully.

Transportation and Tickets

It's about 200 kilometers from Lijiang to Lugu Lake, a 4-4.5 hour drive with endless winding mountain roads. Book a bus online 1-2 days in advance. Round trip is about 100 RMB. The driver will notify you of the pickup location in advance. Make sure to remember the license plate number.

The entrance fee is 70 RMB per person. After passing the ticket checkpoint, continue on the bus. The first stop is Sanjia Village (not recommended for accommodation), and the second stop is Daluoshui Village (the best-developed village on the Yunnan side, with convenient dining and lodging). However, we chose to find accommodation as we went along, avoiding backtracking.

Circumference Tour Guide

The circumference of Lugu Lake is about 70 kilometers. To cover it in two days, you must hire a car. You can arrange this in Daluoshui Village. A half-day tour covering half the lake costs 260-300 RMB per vehicle. You can find people to share the cost with on the bus. The driver will stop at scenic spots to give you time for photos, and you can also ask to stop anytime.

Accommodation Recommendation: Dazu Village (in Sichuan Province). During the off-season, it's not crowded. Guesthouses are built right along the lake, and lake-view rooms offer incredible value. We stayed in a 270-degree duplex lake-view room for only 120 RMB a night! The main reason for choosing this spot was to watch the sunset. Group tours won't include this, but that evening, the weather was perfect, and we witnessed a breathtaking sunset.

Starry Sky: Lugu Lake has minimal light pollution. If the weather is good, you can photograph the Milky Way. Unfortunately, it was too cold, so we didn't get any shots.

Day Two: Boating and the "Walking Marriage" Bridge

Depart from Dazu Village and ask your guesthouse owner to help arrange a car (50 RMB per person). At Wuzhiluo Pier, you can take a ride on a traditional pig-trough boat. We recommend the "Dear Guesthouse" route (100 RMB per person). If you have a drone, you can choose the Caohai (Grass Sea) route.

About Boating Times: The bus guide said you can't go boating in the afternoon because of strong winds. That's a lie. We saw plenty of boats in the afternoon, just fewer than in the morning. You can go whenever you like.

The "Walking Marriage" Bridge (Zouhun Qiao): The Mosuo people of Lugu Lake have a matriarchal society and practice a "walking marriage" system. If a man and woman fall in love, the man climbs through the woman's window at night to visit. Any children born belong to the woman's family and are raised by her brothers. The biological father is considered an "outsider" and is rarely seen. It's a very interesting custom.

Return Trip: After completing the circumference tour, take the bus back to Lijiang from Daluoshui Village. Along the way, you can book a bus to Dali (departures before 7:30 PM, about 70 RMB per person). The trip from Lijiang to Dali takes about 3.5-4 hours. You'll get off at a station near the old town. If you get motion sickness, bring medication.

Accommodation in Dali: We recommend staying near the old town or in the city center (Xiaguan). We stayed in a guesthouse in the Shanshuijian Villa area near Dali University. It was a 120-square-meter duplex, costing about 300 RMB per night.

IV. Dali: Snow on Cangshan, Moon over Erhai

Dali is at an altitude of 2,100 meters, which feels more comfortable than Lijiang. The old town is lively, and the city center (Xiaguan) is well-developed. Accommodation is convenient in both areas.

Cangshan Mountain: Comparing Two Cable Car Routes

Route One (Easy Version): Take the Ximatan Main Cable Car for the entire trip. Buy a round-trip ticket at the lower station for about 260 RMB per person. Stop at the middle station (Seven Dragon Maiden Pool) for a visit, then continue up to Ximatan (elevation 4,000+ meters). With luck, you'll see the snow on Cangshan. This is all done by cable car, making it the least strenuous option.

Route Two (Our Choice): First, take a taxi to the Gantong Temple entrance (entrance fee 30-40 RMB). Take the Gantong Cable Car up to the "Zhenlong Chess Game" (a famous spot from a wuxia novel) for a photo op. Then, hike the 4.5-kilometer "Jade Belt Cloud Path" to the middle station of the Ximatan Cable Car. From there, take the cable car up to the upper station. Finally, take the cable car all the way back down. This route avoids backtracking and combines hiking with cable car rides.

Important Reminders: 1. The Gantong Cable Car defaults to selling round-trip tickets (80 RMB). You must specify you want a one-way up ticket, otherwise, you'll lose money! 2. The Ximatan Main Cable Car closes early in the afternoon. You must arrive at the middle station by 2:00 PM. The upward service from the middle station stops at 3:00 PM, and the downward service from the upper station stops at 4:00 PM. The middle-to-upper-to-lower cable car ticket costs 192 RMB per person.

The day we visited happened to be the day Mr. Jin Yong (a legendary wuxia novelist) passed away. Cangshan seemed to turn white overnight, as if paying tribute to the grandmaster.

Erhai Lake: A 360-Degree Self-Drive Circumference Tour

Renting a car is the best way to tour Erhai Lake. Make sure to bring your driver's license! There are many car rental shops near the old town. You can also book online and have the car delivered. Popular models include:

• For 2 people: Mercedes-Benz Smart convertible (200+ RMB/day), Ford Mustang, Audi TT.
• For 4 people: BMW 1 Series, Volkswagen Beetle convertible, Jeep Wrangler.

We rented a BMW 1 Series, a nearly new car with only 10,000 km on it. You pay for your own gas and return the car with a full tank. A 3,000 RMB deposit is held on your credit card, refunded in full after about a month if there are no traffic violations. The rental app includes insurance; for minor scratches, you only need to cover costs up to 1,500 RMB.

Circumference Route (About 180 km): 1. Haixi Water Station: A long bridge, a popular spot for wedding photos. Navigate to "Xiajiyi Village." 2. Erhai Boundary Marker No. 0304: In late autumn and winter, there are large flocks of seagulls here. There are also white tables and crystal ball photo props. 3. Trees in the Water: Dead trees standing in the water, very atmospheric. Navigate to "Yunzui Haitang." 4. Xizhou Ancient Town: The fields and roads are great for photos. There are many snacks in the old town. 5. White Bus: An Instagram-famous photo spot, located on Provincial Road 221 just outside Xizhou. 6. Zhoucheng Tie-Dye Workshop: See traditional Bai ethnic tie-dyeing. You can buy souvenirs. Navigate to "Duan Lifang Tie-Dye Workshop." 7. Shuanglang: A well-developed town. Drinking tea in a lakeside tea house and soaking up the sun is very relaxing. 8. Wase Water Road: A "contracted area" for wedding photos. You must arrive before sunset for the best shots! Navigate to "Wase Rutian Farmhouse Restaurant."

Gas cost us 120 RMB for the day, parking was 15 RMB, and there were no tolls. After returning the car in the evening, we went to a bar in the old town to listen to music. Perfect.

Shikong National Stone Museum

On the eighth day, we slept in and then went to the Shikong National Stone Museum in the old town. It's near the South Gate of the old town, free to enter, and good for photos. However, to get nice pictures, you need to rent costumes (50 RMB per person), and the photo ticket costs 19 RMB per person.

In the afternoon, we took a bullet train from Dali to Kunming. The trip takes about 2 hours (it used to take 7-8 hours). The ticket price is 145 RMB per person. Make sure to buy a ticket to Kunming Station, not Kunming South Station!

V. Kunming: Rock Climbing, City Center, and Departure

Exploring the City Center

If you have an early morning flight, we recommend staying near the Nanjiang Hotel. That's where the airport shuttle bus starts. The first bus departs at 4:50 AM, running every half hour. It costs 20 RMB per person and takes about 50 minutes to reach Changshui Airport.

During the day, you can visit Yunnan University and Yunnan Normal University (which has the site of the National Southwestern Associated University). In the evening, stroll down Nanping Street to buy local specialties.

Rock Climbing Experience

We participated in an outdoor rock climbing activity — no ropes, about 10 meters high, on a real rock face. It was organized by "Return Space," a club founded by my college roommate in Kunming that combines outdoor activities, photography, and music. If you're interested, you can contact me first. If rock climbing isn't your thing, Kunming also has Dianchi Lake and the Stone Forest to choose from.

VI. Food and Costs

Food Recommendations

I won't list them all here; tasting things for yourself is part of the joy of travel. In Lijiang, try the rice noodles (米线) and rice shreds (饵丝). In Dali, try the milk fan (乳扇) and sour-spicy fish (酸辣鱼). In Kunming, the cross-bridge rice noodles (过桥米线) are a must-try.

Cost Breakdown (Reference)

• Food, Drink, Fun, Accommodation, Local Transport: 3,000 RMB per person (10 days)
• Long-Distance Transport (Round-trip Flights): 1,200 RMB per person
• Total: Approximately 4,200 RMB per person

Our group of four had one person pay, and one person keep the accounts. We split everything equally (AA system). Thanks to "Bro Kun" for always rushing to pay, "Goddess" for diligently keeping the books, "Little Fatty" for capturing amazing photos, and my college roommate "Brother Xian" for arranging the rock climbing.

VII. Final Thoughts

This Yunnan trip was perfect, with just a few minor imperfections — but it was still perfect. Four people from all over the country, trusting me completely to plan the entire itinerary. To live up to that trust, I put my all into the planning, and in the end, we were rewarded with a journey full of laughter and memories.

Core Advice: - Travel during the off-season — fewer crowds, better scenery, and you can negotiate prices. - Enter via Lijiang, exit via Kunming — no backtracking. - Be flexible with your itinerary; weather and energy levels are the main factors. - Always carry your ID card, prioritize sun protection, and take it slow at high altitudes.

Yunnan is worth visiting again and again. As for our group of four — until we meet again.

Note: This article is based on an actual trip taken in October 2018. Some prices and conditions may have changed. Please verify the latest information before your trip.