Crossing Honghe Prefecture: Tracing the Footprints of Time Through Jianshui, Mengzi, Gejiu, and Yuanyang

I love the comfort of a settled life, yet I also cherish the freedom of wandering. I enjoy the liveliness of traveling with companions, but I’m not afraid of the solitude of going solo. This contradictory yet harmonious state of mind might just be the essence of travel—finding your own rhythm between the familiar and the unknown.

It all started with a movie. When Youth (芳华) ended, the image of He Xiaoping and Liu Feng sitting together at an abandoned train station stayed with me like a faded old photograph etched into my memory. When I stumbled upon a photo on Mafengwo of two guys recreating that exact scene, the thought of "going to Mengzi" suddenly became a firm resolve. I remembered a travelogue my friend Xue had shared about Jianshui, and quickly sketched out the outlines of both Jianshui and Mengzi. After posting an invitation on my social feed, my classmates Nana and Almar, along with my colleague Ahong, responded almost instantly—and our "Four Smiling Faces Team" was born. As luck would have it, an old classmate in Gejiu suggested we take a detour to see the Hani Rice Terraces, and everyone agreed without hesitation. So, after researching guides, reading travelogues, booking tickets, and arranging accommodation, a seven-day itinerary quickly took shape: Jianshui, Mengzi, Gejiu, Yuanyang.

It wasn’t until later that I learned these places share a common name—Honghe Hani and Yi Autonomous Prefecture. Thank you, Youth, for leading me to this land and for showing me such a breathtaking Honghe.

Jianshui: Where Time Slows Down

The Retro Romance of the Meter-Gauge Train

Starting from Nanning, after nearly ten hours of travel by high-speed rail, subway, and green-skinned train, we arrived at Jianshui Ancient Town under the cover of night and checked into the quaint Lin'an Inn. The next morning, we boarded the Jianshui meter-gauge sightseeing train—a journey that departs from Lin'an Station with only two runs per day: 9:00 AM and 2:30 PM. In the soft-seat carriage, the attendant served us hot tea and a local Jianshui specialty called "Lion Cake" (狮子糕), which tastes like a glutinous rice version of Sachertorte, while the pastoral scenery of southern Yunnan rolled by outside the window.

The train made stops at Shuanglong Bridge Station and Xianghui Bridge Station, each allowing 30 minutes for sightseeing. The final stop was Tuanshan Village, where we had two hours to explore. With our train ticket, we could enter the village for 30 yuan to visit the ancient residential houses—this was once a filming location for the TV show Chef Nic (十二道锋味), and the homeowner still has photos on display with celebrities like Nicholas Tse, William Chan, and the duo Yu Quan.

Zhu Family Garden and a Stroll Through the Ancient Town

In the afternoon, we walked to the Zhu Family Garden, right next to our inn. Built in the late Qing Dynasty by the local gentry Zhu Weiqing and his brother, this complex of family residence and ancestral hall covers over 20,000 square meters. Its main structure follows a "four vertical, three horizontal" layout, a classic variation of the traditional Jianshui "three rooms, six side rooms, three halls, one large courtyard with four small ones" style. The regular ticket price is 50 yuan, but purchasing on Ctrip (携程) only costs 25 yuan—a money-saving tip worth remembering.

As evening fell, we explored Jianshui Ancient Town. Chaoyang Tower stands proudly at the town center, built in the 22nd year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1389)—28 years older than Beijing's Tiananmen Gate. Standing beneath its towering structure, you can feel over six centuries of history wash over you.

Jianshui's Culinary Memories

When it comes to food in Jianshui, I must strongly recommend Weichang Caoya Rice Noodles (维昌草牙米线)—it was the best bowl of rice noodles we had throughout our entire trip in Honghe Prefecture. The place was packed with locals, the rice noodles were refillable, and the bowls were as big as washbasins. Another must-visit is Zeng Ji Banjing Tofu Shop (曾记坂井豆腐坊), where tofu is made using water from an ancient well—it was even featured on A Bite of China (舌尖上的中国). For just 5 yuan, you can enjoy all-you-can-eat soy milk and tofu pudding. In the evening, we dined at Old Jianshui Restaurant, enjoying grilled tofu and barbecue in a lively, smoky atmosphere.

Mengzi: Following the Footsteps of Youth

Bisezhai: A Train Station Forgotten by Time

Mengzi is the birthplace of rice noodles, and its chrysanthemum rice noodles are especially famous. We had breakfast at Fire House Chrysanthemum Rice Noodles (火烧房子菊花米线)—the top-rated restaurant on Dianping (大众点评), and it lived up to its reputation. The rice noodles come in different price tiers, but the broth is the same; the only difference is the amount of toppings.

With full stomachs, we headed straight to Bisezhai. This is one of the filming locations for Youth and also one of the earliest train stations in modern Chinese history. The narrow-gauge railway from here could go north to Kunming and south all the way to Vietnam. However, we made a big mistake: at Bisezhai, we lingered around the renovated station canteen area taking photos and didn't walk further in to find the old, decrepit station that appeared in the movie. So, take note—you must walk further in until you see the old building with "碧色寨" (Bisezhai) written on it; only then have you truly checked it off your list.

Zhizhan Station: The Empty Final Scene

Compared to Bisezhai, Zhizhan Station is farther away and much quieter. This is the filming location for the final scene of Youth—the small station where He Xiaoping and Liu Feng sit side by side. Built in 1909, it's now just a fourth-class passenger station that handles freight services. The bench from the movie was long gone, and the entire station was deserted. But we still spent over an hour there, soaking in the silence of a place forgotten by time.

Gejiu: The Warmth of Reuniting with Old Friends

Gejiu was an unexpected highlight of our trip. Here, we met up with university classmates we hadn't seen in over a decade—a happy couple who had been together since college. Our old classmates arranged a lake-view room for us with a stunning panorama; outside the window was Jinhu Lake, its night lights shimmering like a miniature Victoria Harbour.

They took us to the best local barbecue spot, where the signature grilled meat was sweet, tender, and incredibly flavorful. In the evening, we sipped coffee by Jinhu Lake, catching up on old times, then went back to their place for tea and more conversation. Everything felt so familiar and warm. Because of our old classmates, Gejiu became the city we liked the most on this trip.

Yuanyang: Mist and Surprises at the Hani Rice Terraces

The Nervous Winding Mountain Roads

As we set off from Gejiu to Yuanyang, the weather kept our spirits seesawing. One moment it was clear blue skies, the next it was thick fog. The mountain roads twisted and turned endlessly; luckily, our travel companions had taken motion sickness pills in advance and were feeling okay.

When buying tickets at the scenic area entrance, the ticket seller asked, "Are you sure you want to buy tickets? It's all fog inside right now—you won't see anything." We exchanged glances and replied, "Yes, we'll buy them! We've already paid for our room, so even if we can't see anything, we'll just hang out at the inn." A woman driving by herself sighed, "Will the fog clear today? The drive in was terrifying—I've been driving for over 20 years, and I've never been so scared."

There were indeed stretches where visibility was only two or three meters. But our driver was a local Hani young man with expert skills, knowing every turn and pothole by heart, which put my mind at ease.

An Unexpected Sunset at Laohuzui

The inn we stayed at, "Love on the Farm Homestay" (爱上路田园民宿), was just as good as the online photos suggested. The rooftop terrace on the fourth floor was beautifully decorated, and we could watch the sunrise and sea of clouds at Duoyishu Scenic Area without even leaving the building. But with heavy fog that day, we could only stay at the inn and take photos. It wasn't until 5:00 PM that our driver, Xiao Ma, came to pick us up to watch the sunset at Laohuzui (Tiger's Mouth).

We didn't have high hopes for seeing the sunset, but since we were there, we decided to go out and wander anyway. And then—when we arrived at Laohuzui, the fog actually cleared! The setting sun spilled over the layered terraces, turning them golden and shimmering, a sight so beautiful it took our breath away. For dinner, we had chicken soup and roast chicken at the Hani Huotang (Hani Fireplace), feeling utterly satisfied.

Blue Terraces and Mushroom Houses: Regrets and Surprises

The next morning, it was raining, so there was no hope for sunrise. We listened to the rain while eating rice noodles at the inn, which had its own charm. After checking out around 9:00 AM, Xiao Ma picked us up to see the Blue Terraces and the Azheke Mushroom Houses.

The Blue Terraces were completely shrouded in fog—we couldn't see a thing. Azheke is the best-preserved Hani mushroom-house village, with pack horses coming and going and quite a few foreign tourists. Unfortunately, without blue skies and white clouds as a backdrop, the mushroom houses, while interesting, lacked that dreamy quality. Just as we thought we'd have to leave with a sense of regret, the sky suddenly cleared on the way back, and we finally caught a glimpse of the Blue Terraces—that shade of blue, like gemstones embedded in the mountains.

Practical Tips

The main viewpoints for the Yuanyang Rice Terraces include: Duoyishu (for sunrise and sea of clouds), Laohuzui (for sunset), Bada (the most grand and spectacular), Qingkou (a folk culture village), Aichunshu (Blue Terraces), and Azheke (Mushroom Houses). It's recommended to spend at least two nights here for a more relaxed schedule. Scenic area tickets cost 90 yuan on Ctrip (originally 100 yuan), with half-price for seniors over 60 and free entry for those over 70.

Itinerary and Expenses: A Practical Guide for Seven Days and Six Nights

Detailed Itinerary

• Day 1: Nanning East → Kunming South (high-speed rail, 5 hours), Kunming South → Kunming (subway, 53 minutes), Kunming → Jianshui (green-skinned train, about 2.5 hours), check into Lin'an Inn
• Day 2: Morning sightseeing train (departs 9:00 AM, returns 1:00 PM), afternoon visit to Zhu Family Garden
• Day 3: Weichang Caoya Rice Noodles → Chaoyang Tower → Zeng Ji Tofu Shop → Xue Zheng Examination Hall → Amao Barbecue → evening train to Mengzi
• Day 4: Fire House Chrysanthemum Rice Noodles → Bisezhai → Zhizhan Station → chartered car to Gejiu
• Day 5: Gejiu → Nansha → Xinjie → Duoyishu → Laohuzui for sunset
• Day 6: Blue Terraces → Azheke → Xinjie → Nansha → Gejiu → chartered car to Kunming
• Day 7: Visit Dounan Flower Market → Kunming South Station → Nanning East

Average Cost Per Person: Approximately 2,170 yuan

• Pre-trip payments (train tickets + partial accommodation): 1,054 yuan
• Cash expenses: 600 yuan
• Mobile payments: 516 yuan

Transportation

In Honghe Prefecture, Didi Express (ride-hailing) is very convenient. Within Jianshui Ancient Town, taking a taxi to various attractions usually costs only 6 yuan, and most places are within a 1-kilometer walk. The old bus station in Mengzi also has buses to Bisezhai, with fares ranging from 8 to 10 yuan. For chartered cars within the Yuanyang scenic area, we recommend contacting the Hani driver Xiao Ma (great driving skills and a fun personality).

Epilogue: Moving Forward with Satisfaction and Regret

Seven days of travel brought both surprises and regrets. We didn't see the sunrise at Duoyishu, and we didn't find the old station from the movie at Bisezhai. But it's these small regrets that give us a reason to set off again.

Thank you to my travel companions, to my old classmates for their warm hospitality, and to Youth for introducing me to this beautiful land. Honghe Prefecture is a place worth wandering through slowly and savoring carefully. Here, time moves slowly, the scenery is stunning, and the people are warm.

If you're planning a trip to Honghe Prefecture, remember these tips:

1. Tickets for attractions like Zhu Family Garden and the Confucian Temple are cheaper on Ctrip; using your ticket can also save you 30 yuan on the sightseeing train
2. At Bisezhai, make sure to walk further in—don't just stop at the renovated buildings
3. Spend at least two nights at the Yuanyang Rice Terraces to catch both sunrise and sunset
4. Weichang Caoya Rice Noodles and Fire House Chrysanthemum Rice Noodles are the two best noodle shops we found on this trip
5. The inn "Love on the Farm Homestay" at Duoyishu has a rooftop terrace perfect for watching the sunrise, saving you the hassle of waking up early to find a spot

Travel is like this—you set out with expectations and return with stories. And the story of Honghe Prefecture has only just begun.