Dali: Finding Your Own Slow Time Amidst Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moonlight

If I had to pick one phrase to describe Dali, "wind, flowers, snow, and moonlight" would be the most fitting—the wind of Xiaguan, the flowers of Shangguan, the snow of Cangshan, and the moon over Erhai Lake. This small city in western Yunnan seems born with poetry and romance, drawing in every soul yearning to escape the urban chaos.

Last August, I joined a photographer friend on a six-day Dali road trip and photoshoot. We drove around, chasing light and shadow, capturing landscapes, and rediscovering a long-lost sense of peace. Today, I'm sharing these memories of Dali along with some practical travel tips.

Before You Go: Smart Prep for a Smooth Trip

Six-Day Itinerary Overview

• Day 1: Hong Kong → Kunming → Dali (Stay at: Dali Wushe Resort Hotel)
• Day 2: Dali Old Town → Xizhou (Stay at: Dali Wushe Resort Hotel)
• Day 3: Xizhou → Shuanglang (Stay at: Haidi Life Hostel)
• Day 4: Shuanglang (Stay at: Haidi Life Hostel)
• Day 5: Shuanglang → Kunming (Stay at: Kunming Gadin Youth Hostel)
• Day 6: Kunming → Hong Kong → Taishan

Average cost per person: Approximately 3,000 RMB

Packing List

• Documents: ID card, driver's license, credit card
• Electronics: Phone (download offline maps on Gaode Maps in advance), charger, power bank, DSLR camera
• Clothing: Summer outfits, long-sleeve jacket (big temperature difference between day and night), dresses for photos, underwear, sandals, slippers
• Toiletries: Toothbrush, toothpaste, sun hat, umbrella (August is rainy season in Yunnan), sunglasses, sunscreen
• Medication: Bring common medicines based on your personal needs

Car Rental Tips

Our group of six included two mother-child pairs plus family members, so self-driving was the most convenient option. We booked a car in advance through the "eHi Car Rental" website.

A few practical reminders:

• First-time members get the first day's rental fee waived, but basic insurance and service fees still apply.
• If your Zhima Credit score is above 650 with no negative records, you can apply for a deposit-free service, skipping the security deposit.
• When picking up the car, inspect it with the staff for any pre-existing damage and take photos—this helps avoid disputes when returning the vehicle.

Xizhou: Half Everyday Life, Half Poetry

On this trip, we mainly explored Xizhou and Shuanglang. Honestly, compared to Shuanglang's hustle and chaos, I much preferred Xizhou's charm and tranquility. If you come to Dali just to zone out, Xizhou is definitely the better choice.

Dali Wushe Resort Hotel: Staying in a Designer's Utopia

This hotel was created by a group of designers and their friends. It's less a hotel and more an idealist's utopia. Here, you can daydream, meditate, think, or create—every corner reflects the designers' ingenuity.

Attention to detail:

• White roses, carnations, ginger flowers, lilies, daisies... fresh flowers are changed daily, filling the air with a subtle floral scent.
• Breakfast offers variety: millet porridge, pancakes, spring rolls, milk and eggs, toast... something for every palate.
• Wooden floors, lounge chairs, sofas, a book nook, a rooftop terrace... every public space invites you to sit down and unwind.

Booking: Only available through the official website. We booked a mountain-view single room.

In the hallway of Wushe, we met an adorable little girl. She was wearing a tiny dress, running through the curtains as sunlight streamed through. The sound of camera shutters filled the air—one of those wonderful surprises travel brings.

In the morning, a sliver of sunlight sneaks into the room, gently "waking" you. Stretch, take a shower, smell the coffee, pick up a book, and enjoy a moment of solitude—this is the kind of morning you dream of.

The public area at Wushe is a highlight. The central pool blends seamlessly into the distant Erhai Lake. Standing on the water's surface, your reflection mirrored below, you feel as if you've become part of the lake itself.

West Erhai Road: A Painting Along the Way

Driving along the West Erhai Road near Xizhou, you'll notice many gracefully shaped trees by the roadside. Put on a pretty dress, stand under any tree, and you've got a stunning photo. Every tree here seems to know photography, posing in the most elegant way.

Yunhai Fangcao: Wandering into a Sea of Flowers

Located in Yinqiao Town, Dali, Yunhai Fangcao is a sprawling flower garden spanning thousands of acres. August is peak blooming season, with colorful flower fields that are a feast for the eyes.

Practical info:

• Admission: 20 RMB per person; children and seniors over 60 enter free.
• The paths inside are muddy, so buy shoe covers at the entrance (10 RMB per pair) to keep your shoes clean.
• No dedicated parking lot; cars park along the road outside. Keep an eye on your vehicle to avoid scratches from other cars or pedestrians.

Dali Old Town: Iconic but Commercialized

Dali Old Town is arguably the most iconic attraction, but it's also heavily commercialized. Getting a panoramic shot from the city wall is nearly impossible—there's always a tourist wandering into your frame.

A few pitfalls to avoid:

• Outside the main city wall, there are alpacas (also known as "grass mud horses" in Chinese internet slang) for photos—10 RMB per person, not per group. You can't just pay 10 RMB for everyone.
• Parking outside the old town, even on the roadside, comes with a fee. If you're lucky and no one sees you, you might slip away; but if caught, you'll have to pay 30 RMB. As for who authorized this charge—feel free to ask the local tourism bureau.

Here's a close-up of the alpaca, expressing how I felt at the time.

Haishe Island: The Most Pristine Wetland

Haishe Island is a well-preserved wetland where many birds circle overhead. You can imagine how spectacular it must be during the winter bird migration.

At the far end of Haishe Island, a stone path extends into the center of Erhai Lake. When the tide rises, water covers the path. Walking along it, gazing at Cangshan and Erhai, taking a deep breath—it's as if your body and mind have been set free. This is perhaps Xizhou's most endearing quality.

Practical info:

• There's a paid parking lot outside the island for 10 RMB. The attendant finishes work at 7 PM; we arrived around 6:30 PM, and since he was about to clock out, he didn't charge us. I recommend coming after 6:30 PM—if the weather's good, you can also catch the sunset.
• The island's main gate closes around 7:30 PM, so keep an eye on the time to avoid getting locked in.

Xizhou Baba: Crispy, Flaky, and Fragrant

On the road from Xizhou to Shuanglang, we picked up some Xizhou baba (a local flatbread). It comes in savory and sweet versions: the savory one is like a scallion pancake, while the sweet one is filled with rose petal jam. Crispy and tasty.

Shuanglang: The Overindulged Child

Compared to Xizhou's tranquility, Shuanglang left a less favorable impression. Roads were under construction everywhere, new hotels were being built, and the entrance to Yuji Island was heavily congested during the day. Parking was a nightmare. Shuanglang feels like a child spoiled by too many tourists, having lost its original innocence.

Haidi Life Hostel: The Viral White Table and Chairs

You can't drive directly to Haidi Life Hostel. After parking, you have to drag your luggage through muddy alleys to reach it. The nearby parking lot is under construction, so you'll have to find roadside spots or empty lots run by locals.

Parking info: 10 RMB if you don't stay overnight, 30 RMB if you do.

Haidi Life has six courtyards with different themes and views. The facilities are a bit dated, with mostly wooden furniture and a simple, rustic design.

Booking tip: If you book a month in advance, you'll need a YHA membership card for member rates. We stayed in the star-view room—on clear nights, you can pull open the canopy and gaze at the stars through the glass roof.

Haidi Life's claim to fame is its set of white tables and chairs. It's become a must-visit spot in Shuanglang, with long queues during the day for photos.

The difference between the two white table sets:

• Free version: Located in front of the Amigo Western Restaurant. Usually requires queuing. Come before 7 AM to avoid the crowds.
• Paid version: Offers a broader view. Walk past the wooden path behind the free tables to find it. Costs 2 RMB per person, with an attendant on duty. If you don't want to pay, come before 7 AM when the attendant isn't there yet.

Yuji Island: The Frustration of Traffic Control

A few important reminders:

• There's only one entrance to Yuji Island by car, located at the north entrance of Shuanglang Scenic Area. East of Dajianpang Parking Lot, there's a tourist sightseeing electric car terminal. You have to go through the entire Ethnic Culture Street to reach Yuji Island.
• During summer break, Shuanglang is packed with tourists, causing severe traffic jams. Starting August 1, traffic restrictions were implemented on Ethnic Culture Street and the section of East Erhai Road from Hongshan Temple to Qingshan Village. From 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM daily, all vehicles except sightseeing electric cars are banned from Ethnic Culture Street.
• I recommend entering Yuji Island from the exit (located under the "Welcome to Shuanglang" archway). Park nearby and walk a few minutes—no need to go through the entire Ethnic Culture Street.

Anne Cat House: Big Reputation, Poor Service

This place is famous for its cute cats and custom postcards, but the service leaves much to be desired.

Pitfalls to avoid:

• They don't offer free water; you're required to order food.
• Limited menu options, and the food is just average. Drinks cost 20–30 RMB, meals 40–50 RMB—not great value.

Mian Cotton Dessert: A Hidden Gem Behind the Vines

Mian Cotton Dessert has a small storefront with a tiny sign that's easy to miss. The entrance is covered in vines—I hope you don't overlook it, because the desserts here are unforgettable.

Price range: 15–35 RMB. Fresh ingredients, generous portions—some of the best desserts I've ever had!

Xiaoputuo: Best Viewed from a Distance

I recommend just admiring Xiaoputuo Island from the shore as you drive by. There's really no need to go onto the island. It's littered with abandoned barbecue grills, takes less than a minute to walk around, and offers little scenery. Plus, you have to pay admission just to step foot on it.

Rip-off alert: The boat ride costs 10 RMB per person (children free), but once you're on the island, the locals charge an additional 3 RMB per person for entry.

That said, the sky was clearing up, and we witnessed a magnificent "Jesus light" (crepuscular rays)—so it wasn't a total loss.

Wase: A Mirror-Like Water Wonderland

Wase Town has many marshlands, each with different water quality. If you find an area with clear water and graceful tree shadows, it's perfect for wading in and taking photos. Under the sunlight, the water creates stunning mirror-like reflections.

Haidi Life Amigo Western Restaurant: Our Last Breakfast

Located in the café at Haidi Life's No. 3 Courtyard, you can quietly daydream here in the morning or watch a movie at night. On our last day in Dali, we had breakfast here.

Breakfast info: Only three set meal options, all priced at 28 RMB per serving. Not bad.

Final Thoughts: Dali, Until We Meet Again

Six days—not too long, not too short. We drove along the West Erhai Road in Xizhou, chasing light and shadow. We watched the sunset over Erhai Lake from Wushe's rooftop terrace. We queued for photos at the white tables in Shuanglang. We captured mirror-like reflections in the marshlands of Wase.

Dali's beauty isn't in any specific attraction—it's in those unexpected moments: meeting an adorable little girl, smelling the roses in a flower field, enjoying a simple breakfast in the morning sun.

If you're planning a trip to Dali, my advice is: spend more time in Xizhou. It offers purer scenery and a slower pace of life. Shuanglang may be lively, but over-commercialization has stripped it of its original charm.

Goodbye, Dali. Goodbye, Yunnan. Until we meet again.

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