Deep Travel Guide to Dali | A Three-Year Resident's Secret Collection

The world is vast, and stories are long, but Dali is that place where you can finally stop and catch your breath.

I first set foot on this land the year I graduated from university. I originally came just to set up a stall and travel, but I ended up staying for two or three years. Later, I became a hotel reviewer, coming and going countless times, each time staying for several months. Friends ask me why I'm so obsessed with Dali. My answer is simple: because here, I can find a sense of peace.

So today, I want to put all the experience I've accumulated over these three years—the pitfalls I've fallen into, the beauty I've discovered—into this guide. Whether you're visiting for the first time or looking to rediscover Dali from a new perspective, I hope this article helps you avoid detours and gain some genuine emotional rewards.

Pre-Trip Preparation Checklist

Weather & Skincare

The dryness in Dali might exceed your imagination, especially in autumn and winter. If you're a woman, make sure to bring enough face masks, facial mist, and lotion. There's a Watsons in the ancient town, located on Honglongjing Street, but prices will be higher than outside.

Sun protection is a top priority. The ultraviolet rays on the plateau are relentless; even on cloudy days, they can burn you. Sunscreen, spray sunscreen, and after-sun repair products are all essential.

Diet & Health

Bai cuisine tends to be sour and spicy. If you have a sensitive stomach, it's advisable to bring some stomach medicine, cold medicine, and anti-inflammatories. The "Xiaguan Wind" in Dali during winter is no joke—it's strong enough to blow you away. Make sure to bring a mask.

What to Wear

Winter temperatures vary greatly. It's quite warm during the day when the sun is out, but once the sun sets, it gets freezing cold. I recommend bringing one heavy coat and one light jacket so you can easily adjust to the temperature.

For girls who love taking photos, white and red dresses look especially good in pictures. Linen and cotton clothes also suit Dali's vibe perfectly. As for accessories, a sun hat, sunglasses, and a red scarf are all great additions.

Other Practical Info

• Payment Methods: Dali now almost fully supports WeChat Pay and Alipay, even at roadside stalls. Bring only a small amount of cash.
• Recommended Trip Duration: 3 to 5 days is ideal.
• Best Seasons: April, May, and September through December offer the most comfortable weather.
• Cost Reference: Off-peak accommodation ranges from over 100 yuan to over 1,000 yuan. Sea-view rooms generally start at 400 to 500 yuan. Overall, Dali isn't expensive.
• Tips: Dali's fruits and vegetables are especially fresh and sweet. I suggest visiting a local market and cooking a meal yourself. However, fruit prices are a bit high. Also, bring a thermos—drinking warm water is good for both your stomach and skin.

Transportation Guide: How to Get Here and Get Around

How to Reach Dali

By Air: There aren't many direct flights to Dali from other cities in China. It's usually cheaper to fly first to Kunming or Lijiang, then transfer to Dali.

By Train: You can first go to Kunming, then transfer to Dali. The good news is that the high-speed rail from Kunming to Dali is now operational, taking only 2 hours. Regular trains take 5 to 6 hours, with four or five departures daily, and tickets cost 60 to 100 yuan.

Getting Around Dali City

From Dali Airport or the train station to the ancient town takes about 30 to 40 minutes by car. From the train station, you can take a bus or share a ride. Shared ride fees are around 10 to 20 yuan per person. You can also use Didi.

Reference Prices for Shared Rides: - Dali Ancient Town to Kunming Airport: 200 yuan in off-peak season, 300 yuan in peak season - Dali Ancient Town to Lijiang Airport: 100 yuan in off-peak season, 200 yuan in peak season

Transportation Options for the Erhai Lake Loop

Circling Erhai Lake is a must-do in Dali. Here are the options:

• Renting a Car: Shenzhou Car Rental and Yihai Car Rental have branches in the ancient town, costing around 100 yuan per day.
• Hiring a Car with Driver: 400 yuan per car per day, with the driver accompanying you the whole time.
• Photo Tour Jeep: 200 to 300 yuan per person, including driver and photography service.
• Electric Scooter / Mountain Bike: You can rent these at shops in the ancient town. Electric scooters cost 25 to 60 yuan per day in off-peak season, and more in peak season.

My Advice: If you're not particularly fit, renting an electric scooter is the most convenient option. But be sure to ask about the battery range and bring a charging cable. If you're in a group, renting a car is more cost-effective.

Accommodation Recommendations: Live Like a Local

Dali Zuoxiang Cinema Boutique Inn

This inn is located in Maihua Village on Shuanghe Road near the south gate of the ancient town, a ten-minute walk away. The building is a typical Bai-style structure, and the environment is quiet.

The owner, Mr. Zou, is from Wenzhou, and his wife, Zhu Xiaoxiannv, is from Jingzhou, Hubei. Like most people who come to Dali to open a guesthouse, they arrived and never wanted to leave, so they transformed the place into what it is today.

The inn has only 12 rooms, but each one is thoughtfully decorated. The most delightful feature is the "cinema experience"—every room is equipped with a projector. The beds are 2 meters wide, with a tatami-style setup, making it incredibly comfortable even for a solo traveler. The rooms bring all of Dali's sunshine indoors, putting you in a great mood.

The landlady's service is very attentive. She brings fruit in the evening, and if you don't feel like eating out during the day, you can join them for a meal. One time when I had a sore throat, she gave me some kumquat salt water she had been brewing for years, and my throat felt better that same night.

Address: No. 15, 3rd Road, Maihua Village, Shuanghe Road, Dali Ancient Town (near the South Gate Ecological Parking Lot) Price: Opening price 200 to 300 yuan

Activity Recommendations: The Right Way to Deeply Experience Dali

One-Day Erhai Lake Loop

Many people come to Dali for the "wind, flowers, snow, and moon" and the "Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake." And the Erhai Lake loop is the activity I recommend most.

Recommended Route: Dali University → Majiuyi Village → Xizhou Ancient Town → Zhoucheng Ancient Town → Haishe Park → Wase Town → Xiaoputuo Island → Haidong Town → Longkan Ancient Ferry → Dali Ancient Town

This route goes from the west side of the lake to the east side. The west side is great for watching the sunrise, and the east side is perfect for sunset. Arrive in Haidong Town around 5 or 6 PM to watch the sunset, then head back to the ancient town to explore the night market. A perfect day.

Dali University: One of the most beautiful universities in China, nestled at the foot of Cangshan Mountain, overlooking Erhai Lake. Cherry blossoms bloom in March and April, and ginkgo trees turn golden in November and December—absolutely stunning.

Majiuyi Village: It used to be very lively, but after the Erhai Lake conservation policy, it became quiet. The trees by the water make for great photos, and there are white glass balls and white tables and chairs by the lake for tourists to take pictures.

Xizhou Ancient Town: A quiet little ancient town with a few bluestone streets and a handful of artsy shops. When you come to Xizhou, you must try Xizhou Baba (a type of stuffed flatbread), available in sweet and savory versions. Locals pay 3 yuan, tourists pay 5 yuan—whether you can haggle depends on your skill. The surrounding countryside scenery is also great for photos.

Haishe Park: A wetland park surrounded by water on three sides. It has a small forest and a very artsy bookstore with a coffee bar and tie-dye crafts. It's a great place for artistic photo shoots.

Wase Scenery: In my opinion, this is the most beautiful stretch of Erhai Lake. The winding mountain road is especially cool for driving and taking edgy photos.

Xiaoputuo Island: From mid-to-late November to March of the following year, large flocks of seagulls migrate here for the winter. If you visit Dali during Chinese New Year, you'll catch them.

Haidong Scenery: The best spot to watch the sunset. Around 6 PM, the sun slowly sets. If you're lucky, you'll see beams of light streaming down from the sky. The magnificent sight of "sunshine spreading in all directions" is truly moving.

Tip: Most of these attractions are free. A few have paid spots inside, which you can choose based on your interest.

Strolling Through Dali Ancient Town

The ancient town is best experienced at night. When the lights come on, people fill the streets, creating a lively and romantic atmosphere. But it's also beautiful during the day. Find a small shop in the afternoon for tea and sunbathing—it's incredibly relaxing.

Streets Worth Visiting: - Fuxing Road: The main street of the ancient town - Renmin Road: A must-visit for artsy travelers - Guangwu Road: A hub for private home-style restaurants - Bo'ai Road: Where locals live their daily lives - Yeyu Road: Packed with restaurants - Yangren Street (Foreigner Street): Lots of snacks, fewer crowds - Chuangdanchang (Bed Sheet Factory): A hotspot for artsy travelers; there's a market on the last Saturday of every month

Lazing Around at Your Inn All Day

Or, you don't have to go anywhere at all. Find a comfortable inn and spend the whole day zoning out in the courtyard or your room—that's a form of enjoyment too.

Recommended Accommodation Combo: One night at an inn in the ancient town (like Zuoxiang or Wuxiang Xunyou), one night at an inn on Cangshan Mountain (like Wuwang Chuxin), and one night at an inn by Erhai Lake (like Mermaid Seaview Resort Hotel) to experience different atmospheres.

Artistic Photo Spots

• Renmin Road and Chuangdanchang in Dali Ancient Town
• Jizhao Nunnery near Gantong Temple
• Dali Xiaoyuanzi (a creative community)
• Small spots around Erhai Lake
• Wulongba (a highland meadow)

Temples for Spiritual Rest

If you like temple culture, I recommend: Gantong Temple, Jizhao Nunnery, Jizu Mountain, Baisi Temple, and the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple.

Exploring Nearby Ancient Towns

• Nuodeng Ancient Town: Famous for its ham
• Shaxi Ancient Town: Known for its Tea Horse Road culture
• Weishan Ancient Town
• Eryuan West Lake, Cibi Lake, and Lihua Village (Pear Blossom Village): In winter, you can also soak in hot springs here

These attractions are about a 2-hour drive from Dali Ancient Town.

Food Recommendations: The Flavors of Dali

Hotpot — Xinhaowei · Fresh Flowers & Wild Mushrooms · Cold-Fungus Chicken Hotpot

This is the second-best hotpot I've ever had, and I've been here many times. I recommend the dual-flavor broth. Their fried flatbread, pumpkin pie, tripe, lamb, beef, winter melon, baby bok choy, and pig's blood are all good. The ingredients are fresh, and they offer free fruit. The ambiance is average, but the service is decent.

Address: Middle section of Bo'ai Road, opposite Dali No. 1 Middle School

Yunnan Cuisine — Wuxiang Yunduo Restaurant

This place serves light, refreshing Yunnan cuisine with mild flavors and elegant decor. I highly recommend their pastries—they're absolutely top-notch. It's a great spot for taking photos.

Address: No. 390, Middle Section of Renmin Road

Bai Cuisine — Dali Laonai Shengpi Restaurant (Dali Old Lady Raw Pork Skin Restaurant)

A local favorite, authentic and affordable. I recommend: raw pork skin (生皮), taro stir-fried with lake vegetable, and stir-fried snail meat. The sour-and-spicy shredded potatoes are not worth ordering.

Address: No. 100, Guanyintang (300 meters north of Zhang Family Garden)

Vegetarian Food — Zhongshan Yuanzhai Vegetarian Noodle House

An order-style vegetarian restaurant with a wide variety of dishes, all lightly seasoned. I recommend the scallion pancakes, hat-shaped pies, cabbage with tofu, and millet porridge.

Address: Diagonally opposite the gate of Dali University's ancient campus

Street Food — Aimin Luosifen (Snail Rice Noodles)

The best Luosifen I've ever had outside of my hometown. I once rode an electric scooter for over 10 kilometers from the ancient town to Xiaguan just to get a bowl. It's sour and spicy—highly recommended.

Address: Near Kuntai Baiye Taicheng Mall, Xiaguan District

Cakes — Bread Party & Jiahua Bakery

Bread Party's cakes are very girly and cute. I recommend the egg custard slices, pineapple buns, and walnut bread. Jiahua's flower cakes and pastries are incredibly delicious.

Bread Party Address: Middle section of Renmin Road (near Fuxing Road) Jiahua Bakery Address: Fuxing Road (next to McDonald's)

Bar Recommendations: Listen to a Song with a Story

Kongyouqin (Empty and Melancholy)

The owner, Big Senior Brother, is the top guitarist in Lijiang, having played for 20 or 30 years. If you like listening to old men with stories sing, this is the place.

Address: Inside Jiulongju (a courtyard complex)

Qingfeng Bar (Breeze Bar)

I love the resident singers here, especially "Dali's Jay Chou." I can hear his voice every time I walk by. Unfortunately, every time I go in, he's just finishing his set.

Address: Middle section of Renmin Road, Dali Ancient Town

Souvenir Recommendations: Take a Piece of Dali Home

Tea: Yunnan's Pu'er, Xiaguan Tuocha, and Dianhong (Yunnan black tea) are all famous. There are many tea shops in the ancient town, and prices vary wildly. It's best to follow recommendations from your inn.

Flower Cakes: You can't visit Dali without trying flower cakes. I recommend the brands Jiahua or Panxiangji.

Dali Tie-Dye: A local handicraft available in clothing, home goods, and small accessories. If you like linen and cotton styles, keep an eye out.

Other Specialties: Yangbi walnuts, handmade brown sugar, silver jewelry, etc. You can buy these in Dali Ancient Town, Xiaguan city center, or at the Sanyue Street market.

Final Thoughts

After living in Dali for three years, I've come to feel more and more that Dali isn't a place to "visit"—it's a place to "live."

But if you only have a few days, I hope this guide helps you avoid detours and gain some genuine emotional rewards. Go circle Erhai Lake once, watch a sunrise and a sunset, eat an authentic Bai meal, get lost once in the ancient town's alleyways, and zone out once in your inn's courtyard.

The charm of Dali lies not in how many attractions you visit, but in what you feel here.

May you find, in Dali, your own place of peace.