Eloping to Dali: A Spontaneous Soul Escape

Prologue: When the Tibetan Plateau Meets the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau

Have you ever had one of those moments? An afternoon when sunlight lazily spills across the windowsill, and you suddenly want to abandon everything, jump on a train heading who-knows-where. No meticulous itinerary, no bargain airfare snatched three months in advance, not even a clue where you'll sleep—just that impulsive "what if" urge. That's how I traveled south from the Tibetan Plateau, landing in the embrace of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau.

If the Tibetan Plateau is rugged and vast, with a touch of awe-inspiring desolation, then Dali is gentle and vibrant, every inch of its land steeped in green vitality. From Xining to Kunming, and then to Dali, I felt a long-lost sense of "breathability"—that comfort of being wrapped in green, kissed by sunlight, and soothed by a gentle breeze. This journey wasn't so much a trip as it was an elopement of the soul.

Day One: Kunming, an Unexpected Reunion

Flying from Xining to the Spring City

When the plane touched down at Kunming Changshui Airport, I took a deep breath—the air here was so humid you could wring water from it, a stark contrast to the dry cold of the Tibetan Plateau. The hotel I checked into, the Ji Hotel (Kunming Railway Station branch), gave me my first pleasant surprise. A newly opened property, its decor was minimalist to the extreme, yet every detail showed care. The combination of white and natural wood was clean and crisp, perfectly matching my desire to clear my mind. Even better, it was only a ten-minute walk from the train station, so dragging my luggage was no hassle at all.

Old Times by Green Lake Park

In the afternoon, I met up with a college friend. After graduation, we'd gone our separate ways, yet here we were reuniting in Kunming, chatting about late-night dorm talks and cafeteria gripes as if time had never passed. We strolled slowly along Green Lake Park (Cuihu Park), where willow branches brushed the water's surface, elderly people played chess and sang opera, and young cyclists zipped by on shared bikes. Kunming's slowness is a kind of innate composure.

Day Two: Scenery from the Train and the Hustle of the Ancient City

Six Hours of Slow Travel

From Kunming to Dali, I chose the train. A journey of over six hours might sound long, but it turned out to be the most healing part of the trip. I booked a soft sleeper cabin, pulled the curtains wide open, and let sunlight pour in unapologetically. The scenery outside the window was like a flowing painting: first, flat fields, then gently rolling hills, with occasional flashes of golden rapeseed flower fields or white-walled, gray-tiled villages. The train swayed lazily, and I leaned by the window, thinking of nothing—just watching clouds, mountains, and time slowly drift by.

Dali Ancient City: A Clash Between Trendy and Traditional

I arrived in Dali in the evening. The inn I checked into, Muxi Boutique Inn (inside Dali Ancient City), was practically "Instagram-famous"—a fresh, minimalist style with a courtyard full of flowers and plants, complete with swings, hanging chairs, and wooden tables. Every corner seemed designed for photos. Thanks to a small hiccup, the inn even upgraded me to a suite. When I opened the window and saw the Cangshan Mountains in the distance, I almost laughed out loud.

After settling in, I couldn't wait to dive into the ancient city. Honestly, Dali Ancient City was more "modern" than I'd imagined—the cobblestone streets were lined with shops selling flower cakes (鲜花饼, a flaky pastry filled with sweet rose petals), tie-dye fabrics, and hand drums, with vendors' calls rising and falling. Finding those authentic, old-world corners took some effort. But if you're willing to duck into unassuming alleyways, you might stumble upon a half-open wooden door or an old house covered in moss, instantly pulling you back to the Nanzhao Kingdom of centuries ago. As for flower cakes, nearly every shop sells them, and they taste more or less the same. But the freshly baked ones, warm and crispy on the outside with a sweet, not-too-cloying filling inside—those are worth trying.

Day Three: A Jeep Tour Around Erhai Lake, Meeting Strangers from All Over

Carpooling Isn't Just About Saving Money—It's About Fate

Erhai Lake was the highlight of this trip. I joined a jeep tour around the lake, with four people per vehicle. My carpool companions were strangers from all corners of China: a woman who'd quit her job in Shenzhen to clear her head, a young guy from Beijing traveling with his parents, and a newly graduated couple—their graduation trip was essentially their own "elopement" to Dali.

Our driver was a local Bai ethnicity guy who played folk music the whole way, stopping whenever we saw a beautiful view for photos. The jeep sped along the lake road, the wind messing up our hair, but we laughed like kids. The blue of Erhai Lake wasn't a deep, dark blue—it was a clear, translucent blue with a hint of green, like a giant emerald set at the foot of the Cangshan Mountains.

Why Choose a Jeep for the Lake Tour?

The biggest advantage of this approach is that it lets you truly "immerse" yourself in Erhai Lake. Buses are too fast, e-bikes are too tiring, but a jeep is just right—not too fast, not too slow, and you can stop whenever you want. More importantly, you get to meet a group of like-minded strangers. Our four carpool "teammates" went from complete strangers in the morning to exchanging WeChat contacts and planning dinner together by evening. Sometimes, the meaning of travel isn't about how many sights you see, but who you meet along the way.

Day Four: A Trendy Inn and a Nunnery—Two Completely Different Ways to "Zone Out"

The Trendy Inn: A Photo Paradise, Living Up to the Hype

Many inns along Erhai Lake have shut down due to environmental regulations. The few "survivors" have almost all become Instagram hotspots. The one I visited had a courtyard with an infinity pool facing the lake, with the Cangshan Mountains in the distance and the sky reflected on the water, blurring the line between water and sky. White buildings, cacti, thatched umbrellas—every corner seemed tailor-made for Instagram. If you want those "pretending to be in Santorini" photos, this place will deliver.

Jizhao Nunnery: The "Succulent Kingdom" Hidden in the Mountains

In the afternoon, I went to a special place—Jizhao Nunnery (寂照庵). It's been called an "Instagram-famous nunnery," but unlike those commercialized hotspots, its beauty is quiet and Zen-like. The nunnery is filled with succulents—pots and clusters of them, their plump leaves glistening in the sunlight. Some grow on stone steps, others hang under eaves, and the entire courtyard is carpeted with succulents. Can you imagine? A nunnery that looks like a succulent garden.

I found a corner to sit down, ordered a pot of tea, and listened to the chanting of scriptures while watching sunlight filter through the leaves onto the succulents. In that moment, my mind was empty of all distractions—only the word "emptiness" remained. If you come to Dali, don't miss this place. Not for the photos, but to find inner peace.

Epilogue: Some Scenery Can Only Be Carried in Your Heart

I took many photos on this trip, but honestly, most of the beautiful sights couldn't be captured. Not because of poor photography skills, but because that kind of beauty—like the sunset over Erhai Lake, the clouds on the Cangshan Mountains, the cooking smoke drifting from ancient city alleyways—simply can't be photographed. It belongs only to that moment, only to the you standing there in the wind.

So if you ask me whether Dali is worth visiting, my answer is a single word: yes. Even if it's just for a bowl of "basin-sized" crossing-the-bridge rice noodles (过桥米线), for the wind in your hair on a jeep ride, or for that cup of tea at Jizhao Nunnery—it's all worth it.

Practical Tips for Your "Elopement" Plans

1. Transportation: From Xining to Kunming, flying is recommended; from Kunming to Dali, the soft sleeper train is a great choice—the scenery along the way is stunning.
2. Accommodation: There are plenty of inns inside Dali Ancient City. Muxi Boutique Inn offers good value for money, but book in advance.
3. Lake Tour: A jeep carpool tour is the best way to circle Erhai Lake. You can book it on Mafengwo or Fliggy, with prices around 200–300 RMB per day.
4. Jizhao Nunnery: Free entry, but please keep quiet. You can bring a pot of tea up there to sip while you zone out.
5. Photography: Trendy inns are great for photos, but don't just focus on checking in boxes. The true essence of travel is to feel with your heart.

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Keywords: Dali travel guide, Erhai Lake tour, Jizhao Nunnery, jeep lake tour, Dali Ancient City, trendy inn, spontaneous trip