Escape Plan – A Complete Guide to Dali (Part 1): Slow Times Amid Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon

I once crossed mountains and seas, and walked through seas of people.
The gears of fate, in the end, turned me toward Dali.

I. Foreword: A Long-Overdue Journey

Yunnan – the place I had yearned for from the very beginning – kept getting postponed for one reason or another, nearly becoming the last province I would ever set foot in. I wanted to see the pink mist of cherry blossoms in Wuliang Mountain, to witness the wind, flowers, snow, and moon between Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, and above all, to find my own little "escape plan" on this land.

So when the gears of fate finally turned, I packed my bags and arrived in Dali. And I stayed – for an entire month.

If you, too, want to embark on a spontaneous escape, this guide might help you avoid a few detours and savor a few more authentic flavors.

II. Dali Old Town: A Feast for the Senses

Food is the first priority of the people, and Dali is no exception. Hidden within the old town are countless astonishing flavors – some are Instagram-worthy hotspots, while others are humble hole-in-the-wall eateries tucked away in alleys. Below, I'll share everything I've eaten and collected, organized by street and area.

### Renmin Road – The Culinary Heart of the Old Town

1. Sun Ji First-Class Crossing-the-Bridge Rice Noodles (416 Renmin Road, Lower Section)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐
As my first meal after getting off the train, this bowl of crossing-the-bridge rice noodles was merely passable. The broth was indeed slow-cooked stock, and there were plenty of toppings, which is appealing to curious out-of-towners. But the stir-fried rice noodles? Let's just say "so-so." Fine for a taste test, but don't expect too much.

2. Jiahua Flower Pastry (14-16 Renmin Road, Erhai Gate)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐½
Flower pastries are everywhere in Yunnan, but the freshly baked 3-yuan basic version here is truly flaky, soft, and fragrant, with the taste of roses lingering long in your mouth. Unfortunately, I never found that exact flavor again on later visits, nor did I ever see the 3-yuan version again.

3. Jinshan (99 Renmin Road, Middle Section)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Five-star recommendation – we cleaned every plate! We ordered a set meal for two (without fish) and added Pu'er tea-scented pork, which was absolutely first-rate – even the tea leaves were fried to a crispy perfection. The Bai-style pastries were stunning: fragrant, soft, and chewy, with a slight smoky flavor, combining the airy texture of bread with the density of traditional cakes. There was live music from 12:40 to 1:30 PM, and the female singer's voice was pure and clear.

4. Pang Ding in Dali (207 Renmin Road)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
A trendy spot, but the first time I tried their rose milk tea, I genuinely thought, "Wow." The milk tea was rich, and the rose paste had an authentic aroma. However, on my next two visits, the drinks weren't made by the owner himself, and the rose flavor felt a bit weaker.

5. Zaihuishou (198 Renmin Road)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Every guide recommends this old establishment, and it's a true testament to delicious food coming from humble surroundings. The cold rice noodles with chicken may look unremarkable, but the magic is all in the broth. Crushed peanuts mixed into the noodles were incredibly fragrant – I ate until my bowl was spotless, not a single crumb left.

6. Bakery88 (17 Renmin Road)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐½
Another trendy spot, but the flavors weren't as stunning as I'd hoped. The almond cake was the most popular item, but the almond caramel topping was a bit hard, the cream layer was decent, and the pastry wasn't flaky enough. The orange-cinnamon hot chocolate had a strong orange flavor, but I couldn't taste the cinnamon. The passion fruit cheesecake was a highlight, with pure passion fruit flavor and a bouncy texture. Bread had a buy-one-get-one-free deal after 6 PM.

7. Sufangzhou Coffee & Vegetarian Bar (14 Renmin Road)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐
The peach gum was highly recommended, but the flavor was just okay. This place combines accommodation with dining and has its own farm, serving entirely vegetarian food. The restaurant is on the third floor, filled with succulents, offering views of the sunset over Cangshan Mountain.

8. Liguo Duan Gongzi (279 Renmin Road)
After staying in Dali for many days, I heard many people recommend this place, but I simply couldn't eat any more. Saving it for next time.

### Four Seasons Market – A Serendipitous Food Bazaar

The stalls at the market are not fixed – it all depends on the vendor's mood – but every visit brings surprises.

Hot Dog (⭐⭐⭐⭐): Good presentation, decent taste.
Meng Tianjia Octopus Balls (⭐⭐⭐½): Half a portion of ten balls, made fresh on the spot, with playing cards used as waiting tokens. The owner is a genuine Japanese man who speaks a little Chinese. If you want a full meal, you'll need to add him on WeChat – reportedly very tasty.
Wusu Beer: The red Wusu is known as "Deadly Big Wusu" – drink responsibly.
Long Street Banquet (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐): Only available on weekends or holidays, free but requires advance reservation. Eight people per table, and the meal starts only when everyone is seated – even strangers sit together, creating a great atmosphere. The braised pork belly with preserved vegetables was incredibly delicious; our table finished it all.

### Yu'er Road – A Local Favorite

1. Chicken Rice Noodles (opposite Wind, Flower, Snow & Moon KTV)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐½
The broth is freshly simmered daily, rich in flavor – you can tell it's not made from powder. The chili oil is the finishing touch, and you can add various toppings freely. Great value for money, and completely different from the rice noodles we eat at home.

2. Qingshiqiao Snacks (264 Yu'er Road)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐½
Thick bean jelly is a local specialty, with a texture somewhere between corn porridge and paste, topped with sesame oil and peanuts for extra flavor. Get there early – it's usually sold out by morning.

3. Qiumuyuan (226 Yu'er Road)
Specializes in Bai-style local cuisine, recommended by locals multiple times – unfortunately, I didn't have time to try it.

4. Yixiang Fat Beef King (191 Yu'er Road)
Same as above – saved but didn't get to try. Leaving it for your reference.

### Fuxing Road – Eat on the Go

Yang Ji Milk Fan (299 Fuxing Road)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐½
Milk fan is a local specialty, similar to cheese strips, wrapped with rose paste inside.

Yunlong Rice Rolls (42 Yita Road)
Walk along Fuxing Road toward Wuhua Tower – it was under renovation when I went, so I didn't get to try it. If you do, let me know how it tastes!

### Within the Old Town – Scattered Treasures

1. Village Cat Theme Café (217-1 Guoziyuan Group 8)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐½
This is where I volunteered – I have to promote it! There are eight cats, and most customers come because of them. The coffee is all hand-poured, roasted by a professional named Lao Xia. If you know your coffee, you two might have a story to share.

2. Flying to the Moon (74 Guangwu Road)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐½
A well-known trendy spot, popular with foreigners too. The Nepalese milk tea was a bit sweet, but at least it didn't taste like it was made from powder. The black pepper beef flatbread was baked just right, with generous filling.

3. Jinji Restaurant (29 Guangwu Road)
Recommended multiple times, but I never got the chance.

4. Yirantang (42 Yita Road)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐½
Vegetarian food. I went there on the first day of the lunar month, when it was free. The taste? Like ascetic food. There was a sauce that had a slightly sour, off smell – be careful with that one.

5. Thick Bean Jelly Stall (Intersection of Zhonghe Road and Hongwu Road, opposite Mandala Inn)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
A mobile stall that Lao Xia took me to. I went three days in a row. The thick bean jelly was 2 yuan per bowl and absolutely delicious! The grilled rice cakes were also fantastic – soft and chewy, like a big pancake that can hold anything. I usually added shredded potatoes. I was so obsessed that I added the vendor on WeChat – message me if you need the contact.

6. Stuffed Tofu (on Renmin Road)
My friend recommended the stuffed tofu from Lijiang. When I first came to Dali, I thought it would be the same... but it really wasn't good.

### March Street – Hidden Gems

Xiao Cui Noodle Shop (Yuju Street)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐½
One of Lao Xia's favorites. The owner is a genuine Lanzhou native. The Lanzhou pulled noodles are made to order, with a rich broth. The thinnest noodles are the most refined way to eat them, but they sell out quickly if you arrive late.

Feixiangli Xinjiang Snack Shop (38 Guanyin Road)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐½
Very popular, reportedly quite authentic. The naan bread with meat had about 3 jin (1.5 kg) of meat – very hearty – but the naan itself could use some improvement.

### Dali University – A Student's Paradise

Shuyi Roasted Herbal Tea (2 Hongsheng Road)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
A bubble tea shop on campus. I thought it would be mediocre, but the flavor and toppings were surprisingly generous, rivaling well-known chains.

Sa Pie (2nd Floor, Casual Food City)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
A Dai ethnic specialty. The essence lies in the dipping sauce, which combines lemon and chili. The top layer is loaded with shredded beef, with rice noodles underneath – the portion is so large that two people couldn't finish it. The tamarind juice offered by the owner is a local specialty and one of Lao Xia's favorites.

Barbecue (Across the road from Dali University's main gate)
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐½
Grilled fish is a must-order, and it's quite tasty. The grilled purple sweet potato has the most natural flavor – not artificial at all.

### Jizhao Nunnery – Buddhist Cuisine

This counts as a scenic spot, also a place for tea or vegetarian meals. The mountain is covered with succulents – near the Buddha, even plants seem more spiritual.

III. Dali's Scenery: More Than Just Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon

### The Old Town – The Charm of Bai Architecture

Typical Bai-style buildings, with white walls and black tiles. While not as intricate as Huizhou architecture, their style is distinct and just as impressive. The lush greenery on the rooftops is real flowers, restaurants display vegetables at their doorsteps, corners feature adorable electric scooters, and there are playful little trinkets everywhere.

During my month in the old town, Guo Degang was constantly filming a show, but I never saw him. I did, however, catch a skateboarding competition at Four Seasons Market – the young guys were super cool. On New Year's Eve, I went out dancing and was surprisingly approached by a woman – or rather, harassed.

The North Gate has a city wall you can climb for a panoramic view – I loved it. At the South Gate, I happened to catch a fiery sunset sky, which was a nostalgic experience.

### Caicun Pier – The Closest Point to Erhai Lake

It takes about half an hour by bike from the old town to Caicun Pier. Due to Erhai Lake's environmental restoration, all lakeside inns have been demolished. The small village by the pier is perfect for slowing down and taking a leisurely stroll. I wouldn't recommend taking a boat from here – it's a bit of a rip-off.

### Dali University – A Campus Facing the Sea

Nestled against Cangshan Mountain and facing Erhai Lake – truly "facing the sea, with spring blossoms." I was two weeks late for the cherry blossom road, but even without the blossoms, it was still beautiful. In the tea garden, many students were reading in the sun, looking incredibly content.

### Jizhao Nunnery – Bathed in Buddha's Light

There's a walking path up the mountain from the parking lot, and it's free. When there's light in your heart, everything you see is illuminated. Bathed in Buddha's light, everything feels spiritual. The warm stove is a favorite for southerners.

The view along Xuefu Road on the way back from Jizhao Nunnery is stunning – perfect for driving. If you're walking, I recommend taking Muslim Street, as it's more direct. Whatever you do, don't ride a bike downhill – it's extremely dangerous! I learned this the hard way – thankfully, I survived!

IV. Cat Chronicles: Love and War with Eight Feline Masters

I came to Dali curious about being a cat sitter, so I volunteered at a cat café. Here are my stories with the masters.

Orange Cat (Top Favorite): Super clingy, incredibly spoiled, and jealous. Its skill is that as soon as I pat my lap, it knows to jump up. It meows and stares at you with longing eyes – just sit down, pat your lap, and it's done.

Mocha (Visitor): A little cat lured in by Orange Cat – smart and well-behaved, fearless like a newborn calf, daring to fight anyone. Happiest when sleeping in my arms, and talks in its sleep.

Tuanzhang: Sleeps like it's dead, with a wonderfully plump body – a winter essential.

Baozi: Give me five! Even its parents are forgotten when the cat wand is out.

Zhang Zhen: Extremely insecure, and doesn't know how to express itself. Its "straight-man" way of asking for love needs more patience and care – but deep down, it's very gentle.

Fage: The leader among the cats, commanding the entire scene with authority.

And then there's Wang Fei, Black Cat Sheriff, Leo... The grand drama of instant cowardice plays out every day.

V. Volunteer Experience: The Joy of Working for Room and Board

The idea of volunteering had been on my mind for a long time, and finally, it came true.

How to Find Volunteer Opportunities: Douban, Weibo, travel guides – but beware of scams.

Things to Note: Volunteers generally exchange work for room and board, so keep your expectations in check. You'll definitely have to work, but terms should be agreed upon in advance. It's not normal for tasks to be added on the fly or for you to be treated like a full-time employee. Luckily, our boss was easygoing. If you have time, it's a good idea to check the place out in person first.

My Experiences and Insights: The people I met made me incredibly happy, and the experiences I had are unforgettable.

• Xiao Ge: The boss, a Guangdong native who claims to have become a Sichuanese – a typical straight guy, but quite considerate.
• Xiao Zhu: A fellow volunteer and roommate – innocent and cheerful, a great singer, and I was so touched when she helped me fend off harassment on New Year's Eve.
• Lao Xia: A friend across generations – at heart, she's just a little girl, dreaming of becoming a kind and amiable old grandmother. We were on the same page about work attitudes, and she's a woman with many stories.
• Sister Simin: Skilled with her hands and cheerful in personality. Ever since she arrived, I've had another excuse to gain weight.
• Ying Xiao and Xiao Si: One rational, one emotional – both striving for their own dreams. I hope their inn continues to thrive.
• The Chef Volunteer: A top-tier chef that the boss missed out on because he was playing mahjong. Luckily, the world is round, and we eventually managed to get a meal from him.

VI. Accommodation Guide: Where to Stay for Maximum Comfort

1. Village Cat Café: Where I volunteered. Searchable on Fliggy and Meituan – short-term and long-term rentals available.
2. Dayuanzi Village No. 66: A homestay-like place. The owner's family is very nice, and the rooftop terrace has a great view – perfect for watching sunrise and sunset.
3. U+: A well-run hostel nearby, with high occupancy even in the off-season. They have activities.
4. The Sisters' Inn Under Construction: Mid-to-high-end style with an anime theme – very thoughtfully designed. It's right across from Village Cat Café.
5. Lao Xia's Place: Available for long-term rental, but only with Lao Xia's approval.

VII. Practical Tips: Words from a Seasoned Traveler

1. Dali Airport to the Old Town: There's a dedicated shuttle bus with a guide who explains Dali's overall situation, transportation, and tips for avoiding pitfalls. They'll also ask you to follow a WeChat public account for any questions. This kind of thoughtful service is the best way to promote Dali. My mom loved Dali for one reason in particular: the public restrooms were incredibly clean, with dedicated staff maintaining them.

2. A Complaint About Dali-Lijiang Road: This is the only road from Dali to Lijiang, and the non-motorized vehicle lane is a nightmare! It's bumpy and uneven, with manhole covers often under repair, and fields right next to it. Dali's electric scooters have integrated batteries, making them very heavy – extremely unfriendly for women. They can reach up to 50 km/h, and with strong crosswinds, riding in the non-motorized lane risks falling into the fields, while riding in the motorized lane is dangerous. Cycling around Erhai Lake requires constant vigilance – stay safe.

1. Temperature and Humidity: As a pure northerner, I assumed southern China would be humid, so I packed a suitcase full of summer clothes. But Dali's humidity was even lower than Tianjin's. Within a week, my face was peeling, and my hands were so dry I relied on hand cream. After the sun went down, the rooms were chilly – even my boss, a true southerner, was wearing fleece-lined pants and a down jacket.

2. About Romantic Encounters: Some people might be looking forward to them, but be cautious. Don't take it too seriously, and prioritize your personal safety.

3. About Live Music: In my opinion, Dali's live performers are more authentic than Lijiang's, and their singing skills are better. Lijiang's scene is too commercialized.

VIII. Final Thoughts: The Escape Plan, To Be Continued

One month – neither too long nor too short. I've tasted the old town's cuisine, witnessed the scenery of Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, cuddled eight cats with distinct personalities, and met a group of fascinating people.

An escape plan isn't about running away – it's about finding a better version of yourself.

The story of Dali has only just begun. See you in the next chapter.

If you enjoyed this article, feel free to check out my other travel stories:
- Qinghai Grand Loop – Seeing the World with My Parents
- The Third Pole – Conquering the World's Highest Peak with My Parents
- Xi'an – The City of Songs
- Guangzhou – A Pure Food Tour
- Cherry Blossoms and Fireworks: The Most Romantic Trip – Wuxi
- I Draw, You Guess – A Thai Adventure with Elementary School English
- Vietnam, A Memoir (Ho Chi Minh City, Nha Trang, Da Lat, Mui Ne)
- Meeting Nepal – My First Solo Trip Abroad