[Farewell · Meeting Meili] If There's a Heaven on Earth, It Must Be Yubeng

Prologue: When the Snow Mountains Call in Dreams

December on the high plateau. The wind carries a biting chill, but it cannot extinguish the burning fire within.

The 2025 calendar was turning to its final pages, and the world outside my window was shrouded in winter's desolation. While most people chose to huddle in their heated rooms scrolling through their phones, I fixed my gaze on that mysterious highland in northwest Yunnan. There, snow never melts, mountains have stood silent for millennia, and there's a place called "Yubeng" — said to be the gateway to heaven.

The initial idea was simple: go photograph the Goddess Peak (Miancimu Peak). But when I had a 5-day vacation ticket in hand (plus weekends, making it 7 full days), I suddenly felt it would be a terrible waste to just snap a photo at Feilai Temple and come back. So a spontaneous plan quickly took shape in my mind:

• Day 1: Chongqing → Dali (morning flight) → Rent a car and head straight to Deqin (460 km, about 7 hours), stay at Feilai Temple area
• Day 2: Photo session at Feilai Temple's Viewing Platform 3 and 2 → Mingyong Glacier hike (11 km, 4 hours), stay at Mingyong Village
• Day 3: Enter Yubeng via Niyong Grand Canyon (17.8 km, 7 hours), stay at Upper Yubeng Village
• Day 4: Ice Lake Trail hike (11.5 km, 8 hours), stay at Upper Yubeng Village
• Day 5: Rest day, wander around Upper and Lower Yubeng villages, stay at Lower Yubeng Village
• Day 6: Sacred Waterfall Trail hike (11.3 km, 6 hours), stay at Lower Yubeng Village
• Day 7: Exit the village (13.5 km, 3 hours) → Drive 4 hours to Diqing Airport → Fly back to Chongqing

I'd originally arranged for a friend to join, but got stood up again. No matter — on the road to Yubeng, there's never a shortage of companions. As it turned out, I not only captured the Goddess Peak I'd been dreaming of (so beautiful words fail me), completed both the Ice Lake and Sacred Waterfall classic trails, but also made a group of like-minded friends. Waking up every morning in Yubeng Village at the foot of Goddess Peak and Five-Peak Mountain, opening the window to golden snow mountains bathed in sunrise — that kind of happiness makes all exhaustion vanish.

Chapter One: Departure — From the Fog City to the Snow Realm

1.1 Morning Flight and Car Rental Strategy

Saturday morning, Chongqing Jiangbei Airport. The plane took off at 9 AM sharp, the air so smooth I barely felt any turbulence. An hour and a half later, I was standing on the tarmac of Dali Fengyi Airport. The winter sun poured down, warm and cozy — a stark contrast to Chongqing's gloomy chill.

While waiting for my luggage, I noticed the airport was packed with people — I hadn't expected Dali to be this crowded even in the off-season. Fengyi Airport's terminal really isn't that big, and with so many people it felt cramped. Clearly, an expansion is overdue.

200 meters to the right after exiting the gate, there was the familiar Yihai Car Rental spot. I'd originally booked a Toyota Corolla 1.2T, but since my flight arrived early, the car was still being washed down in the valley. Not wanting to waste time, the staff immediately swapped me to a Volkswagen New Bora, also 1.2T. Off-season rental prices are genuinely affordable — this car cost less than 70 yuan per day, and with preparation fees and insurance, the total for 6 days came to just 1,000 yuan, averaging under 200 per day. Parked nearby was a flashy purple BMW 2 Series convertible, as eye-catching as my own 3 Series 50th Anniversary Limited Edition — but I was going mountain climbing, so practicality won out.

1.2 Heading West: 7 Hours from Dali to Deqin

11:20 AM, everything ready. I drove out of the airport, hit the expressway, and headed straight for Shangri-La, 280 kilometers away — the place on the horizon closest to heaven. I was back again.

At noon, I stopped at Niujie Service Area. The aroma of 10-yuan pancakes was irresistible; add a bowl of instant noodles, and lunch was settled for 20 yuan. The sun was perfect, traffic was light, and I took a stroll around the service area to digest, thinking to myself: retiring to some small Yunnan county town to spend my golden years — that's no joke.

I set off again at 12:50 PM. At 1:47 PM, I crossed the Jinsha River Grand Bridge — below it lies the Tiger Leaping Gorge scenic area, and memories of the Tiger Leaping Gorge high trail hike were still fresh. After crossing the bridge, I officially entered Shangri-La territory. At 2:20 PM, I stopped at Xiaozhongdian Service Area. This 1.2T Volkswagen Bora kept surprising me: plenty of power, no trouble overtaking at 3,000+ meters altitude; smooth gear shifts with minimal low-speed hesitation; and the fuel economy was amazing — about 650 kilometers total, costing only 280 yuan in gas, less than 0.5 yuan per kilometer, with a display reading of 6.0L/100km. The car was nearly new, with only 15,000 km on the odometer, and the space was adequate.

Half an hour later, I entered Diqing city center. I've been here many times, but today time was tight, so no stopping. Heading toward Deqin on National Highway G214 — the精华 section of the Yunnan-Tibet Highway was about to begin.

At 4 PM, I arrived at Benzilan Town. I always take a photo at the Sinopec gas station here — I filled up here during my first self-drive trip into Tibet in 2013. Twelve years later, the town has transformed completely. From Benzilan, the road started climbing. Twenty minutes later, I reached the Jinsha River Big Bend viewing platform. Two years ago, they still charged 20 yuan for entry; now it's free, replaced by newly added coffee shops and souvenir stores. The afternoon light was against me, so the Big Bend didn't photograph well. I didn't linger long, wanting to reach Feilai Temple before sunset.

At 5 PM, traffic was held up for half an hour at the foot of Baima Snow Mountain due to landslide road repairs. At 6:08 PM, at a viewing platform along G214, I happened to catch Meili's sunset — Goddess Peak and Five-Peak Mountain framed together, sunset clouds, prayer flags, and snowy peaks all in one frame. At that moment, every bit of the journey was worth it.

At 6:40 PM, I arrived safely at Feilai Temple. Exactly 7 hours from leaving Dali Airport.

Chapter Two: Feilai Temple — Pilgrimage to the Goddess Peak

2.1 Meili at Sunset

No rush to drop bags at the inn — I headed straight for the viewing platform along G214. Sunset that day was at 6:35 PM, and I made it just in time for Meili's golden hour. I've seen sunrises paint the snow mountains gold, but I'd never witnessed sunset's afterglow — a brilliance like the sky dressing the peaks in a wedding gown.

Miancimu Peak (Goddess Peak) looked especially noble in the twilight. I raised my camera and shot from every angle. The eight white stupas on the viewing platform are iconic landmarks. In the distance, runners were doing 100-kilometer ultra-marathons at 3,500+ meters altitude — are these people's knees made of iron?

After 7 PM, it was basically dark. The sun had set, temperatures plummeted, and I quickly threw on my down jacket. Two years ago, this area was different — now, behind the viewing platform, plenty of new restaurants and cafes had opened, several of them facing the Thirteen Peaks of Meili with floor-to-ceiling windows. You could photograph golden snow mountains from indoors, and window seats were fiercely contested in the morning. There was even a Dicos fast food joint. The commercialization was getting stronger — if you want to visit, go soon.

I had a bowl of chicken stewed rice noodles (25 yuan) at the viewing platform, then checked into my booked guesthouse — Feilai Temple Gesangli Homestay. This place is about 100 meters down a small path to the left of the Gaoshan Bie Zhuang hotel, has its own parking lot, and is a 5-minute walk to the viewing platform. Since it's not directly on the main road, it was very quiet at night. The guesthouse is run by a local Tibetan brother and sister in their own home, with 5-6 rooms kept clean and tidy, electric heating, and a big bed room for 280 yuan.

That night, I was the only guest. When I arrived around 8 PM, the family was gathered around the living room heating stove watching TV. The brother warmly invited me in for butter tea, and we chatted about their guesthouse business and the relocation of Deqin county town. What impressed me most was his story about a Hong Kong racing driver who stayed here — he left Feilai Temple at 6 AM on G214 heading into Tibet, and by 2 AM the next day, he'd sent a video — already at the Potala Palace! 20 hours from Feilai Temple to Lhasa. I checked the navigation: 1,370 kilometers, estimated 25 hours. Truly impressive.

I chatted with the brother until 10 PM, then happily washed up and went to sleep. Flying thousands of kilometers, driving 7 hours — all to witness the sunrise over Goddess Peak. Hoping for good luck tomorrow.

2.2 Golden Sunrise: The Secret of Viewing Platform 3

I woke up at 6:30 AM on the 14th. Slept well with the electric heater. Fully geared up — thickest clothes, hat, gloves. Morning temperature was -6°C. Left at 6:50 AM, drove directly to Viewing Platform 3, which the brother had confirmed last night — fewer people, better views, and you can drive right in.

While warming up the car, I ran into the landlady heading out. Asked where she was going — to Feilai Temple to burn incense. I offered her a ride, but she politely declined. Later, I ran into her again at a breakfast place in the viewing platform area — turns out she works there. What a coincidence!

After breakfast, I arrived at Viewing Platform 3 at 7:30 AM. Got my phone, camera, and tripod set up on the platform. There were fewer than 10 people there — compared to the packed viewing platform along G214, this was a hidden paradise. The key point: it faces Goddess Peak directly, and you can also capture the full panorama of the Thirteen Peaks of Meili!

In the early morning blue hour, Miancimu Peak (6,054 meters) and Jiwu Ren'an / Five-Peak Mountain (5,470 meters) appeared and disappeared in the dawn light. From right to left: Bujiong Songjie Wuxue / Little Son (6,028 meters), Kawagebo (6,740 meters), Paba Niding Jiuzhuo / Sixteen Arhats Peak (5,880 meters), Bawa Bameng / Heroic Son and Daughter Peak (6,000 meters). Before sunrise, Goddess Peak had a noble, mysterious aura.

Sunrise was at 8:09 AM. The sky began to show traces of morning glow, and then — the golden sunrise began. I'd seen it at Feilai Temple two years ago, but seeing it again today, my heart still raced. Soon, the snow mountains were bathed in gold. I pressed the shutter, capturing every moment.

Here are a few close-ups of Goddess Peak — feast your eyes. Five-Peak Mountain's golden sunrise was equally stunning. On the third day in Yubeng, hiking the Sacred Waterfall Trail, I'd be walking all the way to its base. Heroic Son and Daughter Peak's golden sunrise was no less magnificent. On the first day in Yubeng, hiking the Ice Lake Trail, I'd basically be heading straight toward this mountain.

After 8:30 AM, the sunrise was over, and the blue sky took over. The weather that day was absolutely perfect — not a single cloud.

2.3 Viewing Platform 2 and Hidden Photo Spots

Leaving Viewing Platform 3, I drove toward Viewing Platform 2. The distance is short, only 2-3 kilometers, but the road is packed with hidden gems. On the right side of the road, there were many golden-yellow leaves — perfect as foreground for snow mountain shots. This is where a telephoto lens comes into play — distant views, panoramas, every frame like a painting.

This stretch of road is incredibly photogenic — take your time. There are many temporary parking spots on the right side; just make sure not to block oncoming traffic. Under Meili Snow Mountain, colorful prayer flags created a sacred, serene atmosphere.

Viewing Platform 2 is at a curve with plenty of parking nearby. When I arrived close to 11 AM that day, nobody was there, and passing cars were few and far between. This platform had even fewer people, located at the deepest point of the entire circular viewing route, and probably the closest in straight-line distance to Goddess Peak.

I spent way too much time at Viewing Platforms 3 and 2 — far exceeding my plan. This stretch of road was just too beautiful. The Meili Snow Mountains opposite, especially Goddess Peak and Five-Peak Mountain, were so overwhelming that I admit I couldn't tear myself away.

Tips: - If you only want to go to Viewing Platform 3, take the right entrance directly — no need to go around the entire loop. - The road from Platform 3 to Platform 2 has amazing scenery and photo spots with yellow leaves as foreground. Slow down when driving through. - This 8-kilometer loop is highly recommended. If you want to photograph Goddess Peak head-on without the crowds, Platforms 3 and 2 are your best choices.

Chapter Three: Mingyong Glacier — The Forgotten Gem

3.1 From Feilai Temple to the Glacier

At 11:30 AM (nearly 2 hours behind schedule), I finished the 8-kilometer viewing loop and returned to Gesangli Homestay. Quickly packed my bags, said goodbye to the grandmother and little girl, and drove straight to Mingyong Glacier Scenic Area, 30 kilometers away.

Mingyong Glacier is 32 kilometers from Feilai Temple, about a 1-hour drive. Just navigate to "Mingyong Glacier Scenic Area." From Feilai Temple, head toward Tibet on G214, turn left at a certain intersection, then descend all the way to Mingyong Village, with elevation dropping rapidly to around 2,100 meters. The road is all downhill with many curves — check your brakes and control your speed.

After passing through the village, cross a bridge and turn right — only 5 kilometers left to the glacier scenic area. Mingyong Glacier sits directly below Kawagebo Peak, offering a completely different perspective from Feilai Temple.

3.2 Approaching Kawagebo's Glacier

I arrived at the entrance around 12:30 PM. Ticket price: 55 yuan. Scenic area shuttle (round trip): 75 yuan. Total: 130 yuan. When I reached the shuttle boarding point, there were very few tourists heading up that afternoon. I waited about 20 minutes. The entire parking lot was nearly empty — more staff than visitors.

Around 1:30 PM, I finally got on the shuttle. Sharing the ride were two young people — the couple Yifan I mentioned earlier, a handsome man and beautiful woman from Xi'an. Including the driver, there were only 4 people on this shuttle. The road up was quite steep in places, with some significant inclines. There's not much scenery along this stretch, so walking is not recommended.

A quick Baidu fact check: Mingyong Glacier (also known as Nai Nuo Ge Ru Glacier) is the longest glacier at the foot of Kawagebo Peak — a low-latitude tropical monsoon maritime modern glacier. In Tibetan, it's called "Mingyong Qia" — "Mingyong" is a village below the glacier, and "Qia" means water from melted glacier ice. The village got its name "Mingyong" (fire basin) because of the surrounding rolling mountains and mild climate.

The truth is, most visitors who come to Feilai Temple have no idea that just 30 kilometers away, at the foot of the mountain, there's a glacier you can get up close to. Many people, after watching the golden sunrise at Meili, just drive back to Shangri-La — missing this beautiful glacier scenic area is truly a shame. Plus, you can complete a fairly easy hike here. So my advice is: if you make it to Feilai Temple and have time, definitely go see Mingyong Glacier.

Chapter Four: Yubeng — Hiker's Paradise

4.1 Entering the Village via Niyong Grand Canyon

On the 15th, I drove to the Niyong Grand Canyon Yubeng entrance and started the hike into the village. 17.8 kilometers, about 7 hours. This is one of the most classic routes into Yubeng, with stunning canyon scenery along the way, but the trail conditions are complex and require a certain level of fitness.

At the checkpoint, I met Bandeng (Brother Fu), a Beijing native two years my senior. I ran into him again later on the trail, and we ended up hiking together for the next few days — a kindred spirit. He even soloed the Sacred Lake Trail — incredible stamina.

Along the way, I also met Weixun, a post-00s kid from Wenzhou. He had the same backpack as me (Osprey Hikelite 26L) — bag twins, haha! He'd quit his job and been traveling solo for over seven months — envy, jealousy, hate. Youth is wasted on the young! And Mao Chichi, from Guangdong — handsome, quiet, came to Yubeng with Weixun but had less stamina. We met on the trail into the village, then stuck together and later left the village together, parting ways at Shangri-La High-Speed Rail Station.

4.2 Ice Lake Trail: A Conversation with the Mountains

On the 16th, the Ice Lake Trail. 11.5 kilometers, about 8 hours. This is one of Yubeng's most classic hikes, basically heading straight toward Heroic Son and Daughter Peak. Along the way, snow mountains, glaciers, forests, and lakes intertwine — every step is a landscape.

That day, we formed a trio: me, Bandeng, and Will®, a "JC uncle" from Wuhu, Anhui (actually three years younger than me). We had great默契 and completed the entire route together — another fascinating brother I met on this trip. Dunjiao, a big northern guy from Shenyang, was the fastest among our group of seven. He scouted ahead for all of us, disappearing from sight before we knew it. Waste Schoolbro (not my nickname for him!) was Will®'s junior. On the trail, he was the one holding everyone back — took a motorcycle into the village but jogged all the way out; just making it to Xiaonong Base Camp on the Ice Lake Trail exceeded all our expectations.

4.3 Sacred Waterfall Trail: A Pilgrim's Path

On the 18th, the Sacred Waterfall Trail. 11.3 kilometers, about 6 hours. This route goes all the way to the base of Five-Peak Mountain, where the sacred waterfall cascades down from the snow peaks. The scenery was breathtaking — every step felt like a pilgrimage.

4.4 Life in Yubeng

During those days in Yubeng, waking up every morning to a face-to-face encounter with golden snow mountains was simply perfect. Upper Village and Lower Village each had their own charm. I spent an entire day just wandering around the villages, soaking in the peace and beauty of this hidden community embraced by snow peaks.

Chapter Five: The People — Brothers and Sisters on the Road

The biggest takeaway from this hike, besides the scenery, was this group of people.

Yifan and Partner: A handsome man and beautiful woman from the ancient city of Xi'an. We met at the Mingyong Glacier shuttle boarding point. Since there were few people heading up that afternoon, we decided to hike together.

Bandeng (Brother Fu): A Beijing native two years older than me. We crossed paths at the Niyong Grand Canyon checkpoint, then met again on the trail into the village. We hiked side by side for the next few days — a true kindred spirit.

Will®: The "JC uncle" from Wuhu, Anhui — actually three years younger than me. Together with Bandeng, we completed the entire Ice Lake Trail, forming a默契 trio.

Weixun: A post-00s kid from Wenzhou. First impression: same backpack as me (Osprey Hikelite 26L) — bag twins, haha! He'd quit his job and been traveling solo for over seven months. Envy, jealousy, hate — youth is wasted on the young!

Mao Chichi: From Guangdong, handsome and quiet. Came to Yubeng with Weixun but had less stamina. We met on the trail into the village, then stuck together and later left the village together.

Dunjiao: A big northern guy from Shenyang, the fastest among our group of seven. On Ice Lake day, he was always ahead scouting, disappearing from sight before we knew it.

Waste Schoolbro: Not my nickname for him! He was Will®'s junior. On the trail, he was the one holding everyone back — took a motorcycle into the village but jogged all the way out; just making it to Xiaonong Base Camp on the Ice Lake Trail exceeded all our expectations.

Epilogue: If You Can't Go to Heaven, Go to Yubeng

Seven days of journey. Flying thousands of kilometers, driving hundreds, hiking nearly 60 kilometers. I captured the Goddess Peak I'd been dreaming of (from every possible angle, so beautiful words fail me), completed the Yubeng trek (including the two most classic routes: Ice Lake and Sacred Waterfall), and made a group of like-minded friends.

In that mysterious village at the foot of Goddess Peak and Five-Peak Mountain — Yubeng Village — waking up every morning to a face-to-face encounter with golden snow mountains was simply perfect.

Some people say, if you can't go to heaven, go to Yubeng. I think that's true. Because here, you don't need to search for heaven — it's right before your eyes, beneath your feet, in every moment you look up at the snow mountains.

Keep the passion alive, and go where the mountains and seas call. The footsteps of 2026 are growing clearer, and I'm already looking forward to the next departure.

Key Takeaways: - Best Season: December is off-season — fewer people, beautiful scenery, but big temperature differences between day and night. Pack warm clothes. - Transportation: Fly into Dali or Shangri-La, then rent a car for maximum flexibility. Off-season rental averages under 200 yuan per day — great value. - Feilai Temple Viewing: Highly recommend Viewing Platforms 3 and 2 — fewer people, better angles, directly facing Goddess Peak. - Mingyong Glacier: An easily overlooked gem. Ticket + shuttle 130 yuan. Easy hike, suitable for travelers with extra time. - Yubeng Hiking: Ice Lake and Sacred Waterfall trails are classics. Moderate to high fitness required. Recommend hiking with companions. Enter via Niyong Grand Canyon for stunning scenery. - Accommodation: At Feilai Temple, recommend Gesangli Homestay (quiet, clean, great value). In Yubeng, suggest one night each in Upper and Lower villages for different perspectives. - Gear: Trekking poles, non-slip shoes, warm clothing, camera (telephoto lens essential), power bank, snacks, and water.

Final Thought: If the mountain won't come to me, I'll go to the mountain. While you're still young, while you can still walk — go to Yubeng.