【First Honeycomb Memorial】【Toma's Travel Diary】Taking a Two-and-a-Half-Year-Old to Colorful Yunnan for a Belated Summer Vacation

A Belated Trip, a Courageous Departure

The summer of 2022 was destined to be unforgettable for many families. The recurring pandemic grounded countless travel plans, and our family was no exception. We had originally planned to take one-and-a-half-year-old Toma to Guizhou to experience its mountains, waters, and culture, but just before departure, an outbreak in Guizhou dashed all hopes. After much scrambling, by September, a stroke of luck led us to change course for Yunnan—a place we had never truly explored.

The night before departure, another outbreak hit Shenyang. As I packed our bags, I hesitated: Would we be able to leave the city smoothly? Would we be quarantined upon arrival in Lijiang? In the end, we decided to take the gamble. Teacher Tong flew ahead to Lijiang to scout the way, while I, alone with two-and-a-half-year-old Toma, faced the challenge of my first long-haul flight. Fortunately, everything went smoothly. The belated summer vacation had finally begun.

Itinerary Overview: 8 Days, from Lijiang to Dali

• Day 1: Shenyang → Lijiang → Baisha Ancient Town → Albion Resort
• Day 2: Ganheba Hiking → Yunshanping (Spruce Meadow) → Blue Moon Valley
• Day 3-4: Baisha Ancient Town → Yushui Village (Jade Water Village) → Yuhu Village → Jinmao Kaiyue Hotel
• Day 5: Lijiang → Old Town Zhongyi Market → Dali Zhemo Mountain
• Day 6: Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas → Xizhou → Panxi Village
• Day 7: Ring Road → Wenbi Village → Shaxi Ancient Town
• Day 8: Lijiang → Shenyang

This trip, we barely made detailed plans. Every night, we'd scroll through our phones over late-night snacks at the hotel to decide where to go the next day. Though we took some detours, we also stumbled upon unexpected delights.

Lijiang: A Thousand Eyes, a Thousand Faces

Online opinions about Lijiang are polarizing: some love its romance and artistry, others dismiss it as overly commercial and utilitarian. As for me, I've visited Lijiang many times, each with a different impression. I'd say there's no perfect city—only a rhythm that suits you. If you're tired, weary, and want to live somewhere else for a few days, Lijiang will give you the answer.

Baisha Ancient Town: Where Commercialization Meets Raw Authenticity

Some say if you want to see Lijiang from ten years ago, go to Shuhe; if you want to see it from twenty years ago, go to Baisha. Baisha Ancient Town is small. In the off-season, tourists are scarce, and many shops close early in the evening, leaving it feeling quiet. Yet it's this very quietness that captivated me.

Many locals still live in the town, running businesses along the main street during the day and retreating to their homes in the alleyways at night. The town has largely preserved its original character, free from the noise of over-commercialization. Unfortunately, the weather didn't cooperate, and we couldn't see Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from the archway. But the tranquility alone was enough to make us forget our worries.

What left the deepest impression was the "Poet's Steamed Bun Shop." The owner, a steamed bun maker who also writes poetry, had a sign in the shop reading, "Left hand, steamed buns; right hand, poetry." One side is dreams, the other is life—neither contradicts the other. The buns were steamed big and white. As a native of Shandong, I can say with authority: these buns are genuinely good.

Baisha is the birthplace of the Mu family clan and the cradle of Naxi culture. Explorer Joseph Lo (Rock) once lingered here, and Xu Xiake, the Ming dynasty traveler, once stopped to recite poetry. Walking on the stone-paved streets, you feel as if time has stopped. The cats and dogs, the shop owners, the travelers—all are so leisurely and carefree. Even on a cloudy day, this serene beauty remains untouched.

Albion Resort: A Home Under the Snow Mountain

Traveling with a child makes accommodation choices especially important. This time, we stayed at the Fusitu City Albion Resort Apartments at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Opened in 2021, the garden is dotted with stand-alone villas. The rooms are fully equipped, with a kitchen, large closets, and a separate wet-dry bathroom. The best part was the small balcony, where you could see the distant snow-capped mountains. Morning sunlight streaming in was utterly refreshing.

I had mild altitude sickness and a headache all night, but Toma was completely fine. The next morning, we had breakfast at the campsite. The snow-covered mountains glistened, and wisps of cooking smoke rose in the air. It felt like living inside a painting.

Ganheba: Hiking with a Toddler—a "Wilderness Boot Camp"

Ganheba, located on the southern slope of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, is a hidden, lesser-known spot. We were drawn by a guide on a certain app and decided to take the kid hiking. Reality, however, was far from our ideal.

Starting from the Ganhaizi parking lot, we walked up the mountain path. The road conditions worsened, turning into loose gravel. Toma, who usually loves to run wild, kept crying and begging to be carried. We walked and carried him, turning what should have been a half-hour trek into over an hour. To make matters worse, Teacher Tong spotted a leech on my pants! A soft, wriggling bloodsucker—I jumped in fright. Friendly advice: never leave the main path, and avoid stepping in puddles.

But the moment we saw "Milk Lake," everything was worth it. Ganheba is a seasonal lake. During the rainy season, melted snow carries white stone powder down the mountain, turning the water milky white. From a distance, it looks like a river of milk on the plateau. The lake's edges are white, while the center is a mesmerizing blue. Captured by drone, the Milk Lake's colors were even more stunning.

However, we later heard that a couple had gotten stranded and the spot was closed. Some places, if you don't go early, you simply can't go anymore. What scared us even more was that on the way back, Toma's lips turned purple, and he fell asleep on my shoulder. I was terrified, constantly checking his breathing—turns out he was just exhausted. When hiking outdoors with kids, you must know your limits.

Yunshanping and Blue Moon Valley: A Rainy Stroll Through the "Twilight Forest"

Within the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain scenic area, we chose the simplest combination: Yunshanping (Spruce Meadow) + Blue Moon Valley. We took the cable car in the rain, searching for the primeval forest from Twilight.

Yunshanping features a natural meadow pasture. Little cows and sheep grazed leisurely in the rain, surrounded by towering ancient spruce trees. This place is called the "Land of Lovers' Death," where legend says the first Naxi couple died for love. The rain lent Yunshanping a mysterious air—spruce trees stood tall, covered in moss, as if telling stories from a thousand years ago.

Coming down from Yunshanping, we took a shuttle to Blue Moon Valley. The rain came and went, and we only caught a glimpse of the snow-capped peak for a moment. But the lake water was still as blue as jade, breathtakingly beautiful. Blue Moon Valley is also called White Water River because the lake's mud is white, turning the water white when it rains. On sunny days, the lake, snow mountains, and blue sky would connect in a scene of unparalleled beauty.

However, the scenic area's planning was frustrating. We couldn't find anyone to ask for directions at the parking lot, and the bus stop signs were unclear. We nearly got lost. I hope the park becomes more user-friendly.

Yuhu Village and Yushui Village: A Stone Village Under the Snow Mountain and Dongba Culture

Yuhu Village is called "Wuluken" in the Naxi language, meaning "village at the foot of the snow mountain." The houses here are built from rough, piled stones, arranged in a pleasing pattern that forms a unique landscape. There aren't many sights in the village, except for the former residence of Joseph Rock. Rock lived in Lijiang for 27 years, spending most of his time in Yuhu Village. When he fell ill on the other side of the ocean, he wished to be buried among the blooming flowers beneath Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

Yushui Village is a site for inheriting Dongba culture. Clear springs gush from under ancient trees, forming three-tiered waterfalls. A golden statue of the "Nature God," with a human face and snake body, is worshipped by the Naxi people. Dongba script is a pictographic writing system, full of mystery. Though we only skimmed through, the cultural depth was still awe-inspiring.

Dali: From Zhemo Mountain to Shaxi, Surprises at Every Turn

From Lijiang to Dali, we visited Zhemo Mountain, Chongsheng Temple's Three Pagodas, Xizhou, Panxi Village, Wenbi Village, and finally Shaxi Ancient Town. Shaxi was the biggest surprise of the trip. It's even quieter and more authentic than Baisha. Stone-paved streets, old houses, small bridges over flowing water—it felt like traveling back in time.

On the Ring Road, we saw the most beautiful sunset over Erhai Lake. From the hilltop of Wenbi Village, we could overlook the entire lake. The crispy flatbread (破酥粑粑, po su ba ba) in Xizhou still lingers in my memory. Every corner of Dali made us reluctant to leave.

Conclusion: Traveling with a Child Is a Practice

On this trip, we faced many challenges: recurring outbreaks, bad weather, altitude sickness, leeches... But every difficulty made us cherish the scenery before us even more. Traveling with a kid is indeed exhausting, but seeing Toma run on the grass, curiously peer around ancient towns, and joyfully bounce in the hotel made it all worthwhile.

Travel isn't about checking off spots—it's about living somewhere else for a few days. If you're tired too, go to Yunnan, to Lijiang, to Dali. Feel the peace and beauty. Remember: some places, if you don't go early, you simply can't go anymore. And some views can only be seen with the ones you love.

The belated summer vacation has finally ended. But the memories of the journey will stay in our hearts forever.