Going to Dali: An Unexpected Magical Journey, With Love by My Side

Some people say that travel is simply going from a place you're tired of to a place where others are tired of living. But I don't see it that way. Every road I've walked, every person I've met, every story I've heard—they're like tiny fragments of starlight, illuminating our ordinary lives bit by bit.

In early spring last year, he took me to Huangshan, Hongcun, and Wuyuan. It was still cold, with spring just around the corner. The rapeseed flowers in Wuyuan hadn't bloomed yet, and the scenic area was completely empty—as if the whole world had shrunk down to just the two of us. I was like a puppy let off its leash, running wild across the hills and fields. When we got back, I swore I'd write a travel journal, but as usual, everyday life got in the way.

This time, we decided to write as we went, capturing every beautiful moment along the way.

However time comes, however we love.

The Beginning: A Spontaneous Escape After Getting Married

August 28, 2017—Qixi Festival, Chinese Valentine's Day. I officially became Mrs. Liu.

After getting the marriage certificate, I felt like we needed something special to mark the occasion. Before my husband left for his overseas trip, we made a crazy decision: bring a wedding dress to Dali.

To be honest, I didn't have high expectations before we left. It was just an unplanned short trip—five days. How much could really happen?

I was wrong.

This trip was magical and beautiful, like a dream I never wanted to wake up from. It planted a seed deep in my heart, making me eagerly look forward to the next visit.

Our route: Qingdao → Kunming → Dali → Lijiang → Home

Itinerary: - DAY 1: Qingdao → Kunming → Dali - DAY 2: Dali Old Town, getting lost in the residential area - DAY 3: Photo shoot—nameless villages, rice fields; Xizhou Town, Haishe Park - DAY 4: Xizhou Town, Shuanglang - DAY 5: Dali → Home

A Little Wish List Before We Left

Before we set off, I made a wish list like a serious child. Some things I checked off, some I left as regrets—but it's those unfinished items that give me a reason to come back.

Completed: - ☑ Chat with a local elderly lady - ☑ Walk through the old town streets in a wedding dress - ☑ Stay in a village - ☑ Meet at least one interesting person - ☑ Hear a few stories worth bragging about - ☑ Visit the Couple Trees in Xizhou - ☑ Watch the sunset at Haishe Park - ☑ Drink a bottle of "Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon" beer

Unfinished: - ✘ Rent an electric scooter to circle Erhai Lake - ✘ Photograph the starry sky - ✘ Stay in a sea-view room in Shuanglang

First Encounter with Dali: Getting Lost in a Gentle Twilight

A Guesthouse with Zen Spirit

DAY 1, early morning. We arrived at Dali Old Town. Knocking on the guesthouse door at 7 a.m., the owner wasn't even up yet—he was a free-spirited artist who had designed the house and courtyard himself. Every corner breathed "Zen." The lobby was filled with paintings and pigments. He casually tossed us the keys: "Remember to lock the door when you go out."

His keywords for Dali were: lazy, spontaneous.

My husband fell in love with the little courtyard. Every detail showed careful thought. The room locks were old-fashioned—useless against thieves, but carrying a tenderness that said, "You lock it, and I understand."

We had timed our visit perfectly to avoid the peak season. We were the only two guests in the entire guesthouse. It felt like having the whole fish pond to ourselves.

I hung up my white dress and, while my husband was sorting his luggage, secretly snapped a few photos. If love at first sight counts, then I was a million percent in love with this place.

Wandering the Old Town: Getting Lost Is the Best Way

From the guesthouse, we stepped onto the main street leading to the old town. Being foodies, we immediately found a noodle shop and dug in.

The main streets and side alleys of the old town were mostly shops—similar to Fenghuang or Lijiang. We grabbed some snacks and then dove into the residential areas to explore.

Rubin (dried milk fan) tasted like yogurt—I couldn't get used to it. But that grilled durian, sweeter than first love... smack my lips, I could have eaten another pound.

Everywhere on the streets, we saw Bai ethnic households displaying their handmade tie-dye and batik. The intricate patterns and vibrant colors were mesmerizing. Later, in Xizhou, we bought some tie-dye to use as tablecloths and wall decorations. I wondered if they'd feel lonely sitting alone at home.

In the main street of the old town, there was a museum with a "Free Admission" banner at the entrance, like a silver-haired elder saying, "I have stories—do you want to hear them?"

In every city I visit, my favorite places are museums and food markets. This time was no different—we went to Dali's museum and Shuanglang's food market.

My husband is a curious kid at heart. He insisted on throwing away the map and deliberately getting lost. Fine, I'll go along with you.

And thank goodness we did.

Moss, rooftops, old trees, city walls. We passed by an army base and a school. In the evening, we found a highly rated restaurant on Dianping (Chinese Yelp), ate our fill, and strolled back to the guesthouse. It was ridiculously comfortable.

On the way back, my husband bought every fruit we couldn't find in Shandong—like two country bumpkins hitting the big city. This self-proclaimed calm, rational engineering guy was hopping with joy on the winding paths deep into the old town.

Ten years, from classmates to husband and wife. How wonderful.

Traveling with a Wedding Dress: Our First Photo Shoot Experience

DAY 2/3: We woke up naturally, packed our bags, and the photography team picked us up at the guesthouse.

We're planning to have our official wedding photos taken next year, but since we both hate stiff and posed shots, we decided to bring a wedding dress on this trip. Before we left, I booked a photographer online—and it turned out to be the best decision ever. We brought our own camera and tripod too, but aside from selfies, we rarely got to be in the same frame together.

Three big advantages of hiring a photographer: 1. They know the local hidden gems 2. They have a car, making transportation easy 3. No need to pose—just play naturally while they capture the moment

Take the rice field above, for example. As a girl from Shandong, rice fields are a rare sight. I went wild again.

Some tips for anyone considering a photo shoot:

① Choose your photographer wisely: Search on Weibo, Taobao, etc. Look at different portfolios to see which style suits you best. Add them on WeChat to see more samples.

② Bring your own clothes: I tried on the photographer's outfits, but ended up using my own. Your own clothes fit better and can match your partner's. For women, I recommend bringing one well-made, lightweight dress that you can use later. I bought mine online—eight layers of soft tulle, foldable without taking up space, and best of all, wrinkle-free—no ironing needed!

③ Makeup artist is optional: If you know even a little about makeup, skip the professional.

④ Communicate in advance: Confirm the shoot duration, whether transportation is included, shooting locations (some charge fees), and whether makeup and outfits are provided—all before you leave.

⑤ Price reference: Our half-day shoot cost about 1,000 RMB (~$140 USD), with all raw files given and 30 photos lightly retouched. Use this as a benchmark.

All the photos above were taken on the road from Dali Old Town to Xizhou, near Erhai Lake with Cangshan Mountain in the distance. There was a rice field with no tourists. For that moment, the whole world felt like ours.

Our photographer was a recent graduate—a young guy who told dry jokes and shared embarrassing childhood stories. "You two, stop showing off your love—I don't want to see it," he'd say. "When I was a kid, I traded two comic book collections I'd saved for years for a balloon my classmate said wouldn't pop." Watching him work seriously, his shoes sinking into the mud, was genuinely endearing.

Xizhou: Flowers, Wine, and Stories

We said goodbye to the photographer and stayed in Xizhou Town. I opened a map, randomly picked a guesthouse, dropped off our bags, and went straight to find food.

That random choice turned out to be another gift.

We walked through the town's main street and followed the map into the village. The courtyard had flowers, water, and a rocking chair. Beyond it stretched endless fields, with a tree over 340 years old standing guard. From our room's window, we could see that old "Mr. Tree."

That evening, we drank a bottle of "Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon" beer on the balcony, talking about our love story over the years, about how much I love you.

My husband bought a 20 RMB (~$3 USD) keychain in Dali and called it his "daughter." He carried it everywhere, more precious to him than I was. I bet it's still in his pocket now—he said he'd take it abroad too. I'm starting to get jealous.

Haishe Park: A Sunset That Moved Us

In the afternoon, we rented a brand-new "luxury convertible tricycle" (basically a fancy three-wheeled cart) and headed to Haishe Park.

The driver was another unforgettable character we met in Dali. He blasted upbeat music the whole way, and we hummed along. The round trip cost 35 RMB (~$5 USD). He dropped us off without taking any money, just left his phone number, and said he'd pick us up after sunset.

When we came out, we spotted him from far away—he'd been waiting for a long time. My husband asked, "Isn't this costing you a lot of business?" He replied, "I promised to pick you up. I came early so you wouldn't have to wait."

We almost cried. So genuine.

I casually mentioned to my husband that I wanted to see the Couple Trees. The driver said he could take us. We turned onto a small path and finally saw them—two trees leaning on each other, inseparable. We set up the tripod and took a photo. And did you know? The thicker one is the female tree.

We took over 1,000 photos on this trip. My photography skills are limited, but every single one felt perfect. Whether in sunshine or rain, morning or dusk, I finally understood: Dali's beauty lies in every moment of its existence. It's beautiful in all seasons, like a woman who looks stunning with or without makeup.

Meeting an Interesting Person

While wandering around Xizhou, we met a new friend—Weilin.

He used to work at a research institute affiliated with Tsinghua University. After a colleague on his floor died from overwork and long hours, he quit and opened a small shop here, making improved versions of traditional tie-dye. Since he and my husband had overlapping professional backgrounds, they hit it off immediately.

His work had real soul. We picked out a few pieces to frame as a sofa backdrop. After adding him on WeChat, he'd often post his creations (mostly the ones that didn't turn out well) on his feed.

I have to say, the ham fried rice he recommended was amazing! The guy had been ordering takeout from that place for a whole year without realizing the restaurant was right next door to his shop... It's a miracle he's still alive.

The Old Tree and the Old Cynic in Xianglong Village

We had breakfast in Xianglong Village, Xizhou Town. From the window, we could see that 340-year-old Mr. Tree and the endless grassland beyond.

My husband said we should come stay here for longer periods in the future.

I finally understood why so many people love this place—not because cities are bad, but because this place is just too beautiful.

The guesthouse owner was an elderly cynic from Beijing. He told us the story of the old tree. What a fascinating old man. We promised to come back and stay here again, and next time, we'd tell him the stories we'd collected along the way.

See you next time, Xianglong Village—a name full of swagger.

Shuanglang: Waiting for the Phoenix to Rise

DAY 5: Shuanglang.

Shuanglang was a love-hate story. I'd heard it was undergoing renovation, but a few people said it wouldn't affect sightseeing, so we came anyway. But actually, it did—quite a bit.

Almost all the guesthouses were closed. Restaurants weren't operating either. A few guesthouses were secretly renting out rooms. Ours had only the two of us as guests.

Because of the construction, the main street was full of open drainage ditches, making walking muddy and difficult. We encountered a snack shop that overcharged tourists—locals and visitors were quoted different prices openly. We had the most expensive rice ever—8 RMB (~$1 USD) per bowl. We saw fruit stalls with prices five times higher than the local market.

There were some experiences that didn't match the perfect world I'd imagined, but I still believe this place is beautiful. The town had grown because of tourism, and now, without tourists, people were just trying to survive.

Despite the frustrations, I'm still looking forward to Shuanglang's rebirth—like a phoenix rising from the ashes.

Sunset and Starlight by Erhai Lake

We arrived in Shuanglang in the afternoon. At the secretly operating guesthouse, we rented an electric scooter and headed toward Erhai Lake.

The roads were so bad that we ended up in a small square. We sat on the steps, our feet in the lake water, watching the sunset to the soundtrack of square dancing music.

The sunset over Cangshan and Erhai was quietly magnificent. Not flashy, not noisy. As if nothing else in the world mattered.

That evening, we rode the scooter back to the guesthouse, climbed onto the roof, curled up in chairs, and watched the stars while the wind gently brushed across Erhai Lake.

Let's talk about the hard times and the good times over the years. Let's dream about what we want our future to look like. Let's have a daughter someday—her daddy will spoil her like a princess. Let's have a son someday—his mommy will teach him how to charm the girls. We'll argue, won't we? When we argue, you have to surrender within three seconds, okay? Because before we know it, arguing will make us old...

On Food: Memories on the Tongue

Here are the restaurants I enjoyed. This is purely my personal taste.

Kunming: Jianxinyuan Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommended by the airport bus ticket seller. We got off halfway just to eat there (two total foodies). The first branch opened in 1906, and now they have many locations across Kunming.

Dali Old Town: Fuxing Xiaoyuan Private Kitchen ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Great value for money. Found it through Dianping. The braised Erhai fish—firm flesh, crispy pan-fried skin, very flavorful. Erhai shrimp scrambled with eggs—fresh and not greasy. Seaweed and taro soup—it looked unappetizing with its green color, but it was incredibly good. The seaweed (hǎicài) is a unique plant with a slimy texture—I'd never seen it before. They only use the flower tops for the soup. I still miss it after coming home.

Xizhou: Xizhou Flavor Hanlin Restaurant ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Easy to find—in the town center, next to the Hanlin Archway. We ordered a set meal for two: two sour-spicy crucian carp. My husband said it was amazing, but I found it too spicy and bony. The mashed potatoes were unique but got a bit heavy after a while.

Xizhou: Sifang Street Eatery ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Located in central Xizhou, near the filming location of the TV show "We Are in Love." We ordered braised pork, stir-fried flowers with eggs, and mixed wild greens. The flower omelet contained six types: tree bark (not actual bark, but a moss-like plant), tree flowers, roses, jasmine, golden pheasant flowers, and azaleas. The mixed greens had tree bark, tree flowers, shredded cucumber, shredded carrot, shredded potato, cilantro, wood ear mushrooms, and chili oil—very refreshing.

Xizhou: "What to Eat" Snack Shop ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Next to Weilin's shop, with a small sign. No front desk—probably only locals eat here. They serve spicy hot pot, rice bowls, and fried rice. That ham fried rice was incredible—the ham wasn't processed sausage but sun-dried ham, and they were generous with it.

Snacks: Erhai Shrimp Pancakes

The little shrimp were tasty, but deep-fried and oily. Eat sparingly.

Fruits

At the Shuanglang food market, we bought mangoes—10 RMB (~$1.40 USD) for three large ones. We finished them at the airport and wanted to go back for more! Sweet and substantial. The cactus fruit (prickly pear) was pretty good, but had too many seeds.

Live Life Like a Journey

We love travel because every moment brings something new. Every inch of land makes us want to capture it with our camera.

We love life because these ordinary days make up who you are right now.

Only with a curious heart can you turn everyday life into poetry.

I hope that in my ordinary days ahead, I'll see you laughing with joy every single day. I hope that in every trip to come, you'll be right there beside me.

Key Takeaways:

1. Travel off-peak: Go after the busy season for fewer crowds, better experiences, and the chance to have a whole guesthouse to yourself.
2. Hiring a photographer is worth it: Bringing a wedding dress on a trip and shooting on location feels more natural than traditional studio photos. But communicate all details in advance.
3. Getting lost leads to surprises: Don't just follow maps. Dive into residential areas to discover real beauty.
4. Xizhou is worth more time than the old town: It has stories, ancient trees, and genuine people.
5. Shuanglang is under renovation: Check the situation before you go, and don't set your expectations too high.
6. Eat where the locals eat: Small street-side shops often beat trendy internet-famous places.

Dali, it was wonderful to meet you. Life is long, and I hope that every journey from now on has you in it.