Hand in Hand Through the Clouds, Strolling the Southern Shore – Our Slow Yunnan Getaway

Some far-off places don't require you to travel very far. As long as you're by my side, every inch of the world around us becomes a scenic wonder.

In the spring of 2017, Teacher Nie – my boyfriend and personal photographer – and I finally made good on our long-talked-about Yunnan trip. There was no meticulous itinerary, no elaborate plan – just two hearts ready to hit the road and a handful of plane tickets that the wind had nearly scattered. The journey lasted 9 days and 8 nights, costing us 10,347.8 RMB. It wasn't exactly budget travel, but every penny was well spent.

If you're planning a trip to Yunnan, this travelogue might offer some inspiration – and a friendly reminder: Bring enough cash. Seriously. It's important.

The Pre-Departure Drama: A Trip That Almost Didn't Happen

Our original departure date was March 29th, but the night before, the train ticket I had snagged still hadn't been issued. Our flights and accommodation were already booked. Not being able to leave? I couldn't bear to imagine that scenario.

At 5:55 in the morning, I dragged myself out of bed to check the ticket status – still nothing. Teacher Nie, quick on his feet, managed to grab the last two seats on another train. At that moment, I nearly burst into tears. To make matters worse, I hadn't even started my holiday yet. I had barely slept three or four hours, got up at 7 a.m., rushed to the office for a meeting, asked for leave, then sprinted home, grabbed my luggage, and raced with Teacher Nie to the train station.

The station was packed with holiday travelers. The self-service ticket collection counters were swamped. Luckily, we arrived over an hour early, so we made it through without a hitch. The moment we sat down on the high-speed train, I finally felt at ease.

From Nanning to Kunming, the bullet train takes just four hours. But the deeper your anticipation, the slower time seems to crawl. Teacher Nie dozed off peacefully, while I was so bored I ended up watching a Chinese mother-in-law drama with the guy sitting next to me – don't laugh. That show is a five-star sleep aid. I was out cold in less than ten minutes.

When I woke up, the train had arrived at Puzhehei Station. This place became famous thanks to the reality show Where Are We Going, Dad?, and it also served as a filming location for Eternal Love (also known as Three Lives, Three Worlds, Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms). A flood of tourists poured off the train, but I chose to stay seated – jumping into crowds isn't really my style.

After passing through Mile and Shilin West, we finally reached our destination: Kunming South Station. The moment I stepped off the train, the air was so dry I felt an immediate urge to slap on a face mask. If you plan to spend a few days in Kunming, bring plenty of moisturizing masks, toner, facial mist, and sunscreen. You'll use every last bit of them.

The weather forecast had predicted rain for the next few days, and my spirits sank a little. But as we walked out of the station, a clear blue sky greeted us. Yunnan – I'm back!

Kunming Layover: A Quick Glimpse, A Lingering Wish

We didn't spend any time in Kunming city center. We just grabbed a KFC family bucket at the station and headed for the airport shuttle bus. The airport bus costs 13 RMB per person and only accepts cash – no change given. We ran into a young woman who had no cash on her. Even though we were running low ourselves, we helped her out with 13 RMB. In Yunnan, always take official transportation. Never get into those cheap vans that drivers shout at you to board on the street.

The ride from the train station to the airport took an hour. We checked into a Jinjiang Inn near the airport for the night, as we had an 11 a.m. flight to Ninglang the next day. I would have loved to explore Kunming – the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster Archways, Yunnan University – I've passed through several times but never actually visited. It's always a little regret. Next time, I'll definitely set aside two days for Kunming – even if it is incredibly dry.

The Jinjiang Inn had a dedicated shuttle service, which was very convenient. By the time we reached the hotel, I was completely drained. I washed up and fell straight asleep. Goodnight, Yunnan.

Lugu Lake · Day One: First Impressions and a Rainy Setback

We got up early in the morning, took the hotel shuttle to Kunming Airport, and arrived in ten minutes. The airport wasn't crowded, so we leisurely collected our tickets, checked in our luggage, and went through security. That's when things went wrong – Lucky Air's tickets don't include baggage fees. It cost 240 RMB, and they only accepted cash. We stood there dumbfounded, then obediently forked over the money.

We hadn't had breakfast, so we stopped at Dicos. Dicos also doesn't accept mobile payments – cash only. After we finished eating, we realized we had forgotten to buy gum. My ears hurt when I fly, so I absolutely need to chew gum. The gum at the airport cost twice as much as outside. My advice: buy it before you get to the airport.

During security, I had to take off my shoes because the soles were too thick. I silently prayed my feet didn't smell. After we cleared security, Kunming was bathed in sunshine, and I was in high spirits.

But when we landed in Ninglang, the sky was overcast. Occasionally, a ray of sunlight would break through the gray clouds. On the bus to Lugu Lake, it started to rain outside the window. My mood took a nosedive.

The awkwardness wasn't over yet. When we entered the Lugu Lake scenic area, everyone had to get off the bus to buy tickets. Adult tickets are 100 RMB each, and they only accept cash. After all the "cash depletion" from earlier, we didn't have enough money left to pay for the tickets, and there was no ATM nearby. Teacher Nie had to swallow his pride and ask a fellow passenger to exchange 200 RMB in cash. Only then could we buy the tickets. As soon as we paid, the rain started pouring down. Seriously, fate – are you messing with me?

The bus's final stop was Daluoshui, but we were staying at Langfang. After getting off at Sanjiacun, the inn's staff helped us find a minivan. It cost 10 RMB for both of us, and it dropped us right at the inn's doorstep.

Wucai Lige (Colorful Pavilion) was where we stayed for three days on Lugu Lake. The building was bright and colorful, and our room was the one on the far left of the second floor. Right across from the inn was Lugu Lake itself – water and sky merged into one breathtaking view. The inn's observation deck offered a fantastic panorama, and we could even see the lake's reflection in the water. The staff member told us they were planning to renovate soon, so it wouldn't look the same next time we visited.

We were starving, so we ordered a Chongqing hotpot at the inn. We had specifically asked for less spice, but when the pot arrived, it still looked like it could knock us out. We ended up rinsing every bite in plain water before eating – a truly bizarre scene. But the yak meat slices and red rice were absolutely delicious. The red rice was grown by a friend of the inn owner, and you can't buy it anywhere else. I devoured two bowls.

After we'd eaten our fill, we went out to find a rental place. A ten-minute walk from the inn towards Caohai (the Grass Sea) led us to an open lot filled with small four-wheeled electric carts. Teacher Nie had been dreaming of renting one of these for ages – he'd wanted to try one last year in Shuanglang but couldn't find any. This time, he was determined. The rental was 260 RMB per day, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., but we could only go around half the lake because the area around Daluoshui and Lige Peninsula might have checkpoints. The shop owner said that starting in July, we'd be able to circle the entire lake, but there wouldn't be enough time (even going half-way took us a full day). The cart we wanted was the only one available, so we paid in advance and planned to pick it up the next morning.

We went back to the inn to rest. And just like that, our first day on Lugu Lake came to an end.

Lugu Lake · Day Two: Clearing Skies and the Stunning Goddess Bay

The weather forecast had predicted heavy rain, but we woke up to brilliant sunshine. Words can't describe the feeling.

I changed into the traditional Han Chinese dress (hanfu) that I had carried all the way from home and headed out for photos. Teacher Nie went to pick up the cart while I waited in the inn's lobby. The staff member did a double-take when he saw me. Even the two dogs at the inn came over to nuzzle me – the big one was a retired military dog, incredibly well-behaved; the little one was a stray the staff had taken in, full of playful energy.

Teacher Nie pulled up in the electric cart, grinning like a kid. We brought along a portable Bluetooth speaker and played music the whole way, having an absolute blast. The looks we got from passersby probably suggested they thought we were a couple of lunatics.

Our first stop was Caohai (the Grass Sea) . The advantage of traveling in the off-season was the lack of crowds – we could take as many photos as we wanted. Wrong angle? Retake. Bad lighting? Retake. Didn't capture the whole view? Retake. We fussed around for ages before finally moving on. In all that time, we didn't see a single other person. I almost wondered if we had stumbled into a fake Grass Sea.

Next was the Zouhun Bridge (the Marriage Bridge) . This place was much busier, filled with tourists on day tours. There were plenty of stalls selling yogurt, local snacks, and aunties offering to braid your hair into little plaits. When they saw my wig, they kept trying to sell me on the plaits. I politely declined several of them and quickly made my way onto the bridge. The sun was blazing, and Teacher Nie said the harsh overhead light wouldn't make for good photos. So I didn't take any pictures on the bridge itself – just of the wild ducks foraging for food underneath.

Our third stop was Nüshén Bay (Goddess Bay, also known as Zhaojia Bay) . We had spent about an hour at the first two places combined, but we ended up staying at Goddess Bay for three hours – because it was simply that beautiful.

The road leading to Goddess Bay wasn't very wide, and there were few cars. Teacher Nie sped along, even asking me to film him as he took the winding curves. The unpaved section connecting the bay to the main road was bumpy and rough. We parked the cart by the roadside and walked the rest of the way down.

Goddess Bay isn't large, but the scenery is stunning. We spent the entire afternoon taking photos there. Teacher Nie snapped a few shots with his phone that he still uses as his wallpaper.

The biggest surprise was lunch – Zhao Ge's Old Brand (Zhao Ge Lao Zi Hao) at Goddess Bay. The presentation was nothing special, but the flavor was off the charts. The fish was freshly caught from the bay, the tomatoes and greens came from a local farmer's garden, and the chicken was free-range. Everything was incredibly fresh. And the best part? It was cheap: 30 RMB per person, eat as much as you want. If you're in a larger group, they'll even add more dishes. There's no menu – they just serve whatever's available that day. Those tomatoes were so good, my mouth still waters just thinking about them.

After lunch, we continued taking photos. The sun was still high and the light harsh, so we sat under a tree by the shore, skipping stones across the water. The shore was covered in small pebbles, which made the water crystal clear. While we were playing, we met another hanfu enthusiast. She was wearing a set from Shimiao Xian, a brand I also love. We had a great chat, and she even went to Zhao Ge's for lunch after we recommended it – I felt like we were getting paid for promotion, the way we kept raving about it to everyone.

We had to return the cart by 5 p.m. The rental shop called to ask if we could make it on time, and we managed to pull in right at 5 o'clock sharp. Teacher Nie said that next time, he wants to drive to Lugu Lake and also visit Daocheng Yading. I can't drive, so I'll just sit back, relax, and enjoy the snacks.

On the way back, the Grass Sea was still vast and empty, without a soul in sight. We reached the inn just before 6 p.m. The staff member was curious about why we weren't going out for the evening. Neither of us likes bars, so we decided to spend the night quietly on our room's balcony, listening to music and scrolling through our phones. Isn't that even more relaxing?

Goodnight, Lugu Lake – Day Two.

Lugu Lake · Day Three: Slow Time Under a Cloudy Sky

Today's plan was to take a private car tour around the lake. The weather wasn't great – overcast, with a chance of rain – so we didn't rent the electric cart. We asked the inn to arrange a driver for us. A private car for a half-lake tour cost 200 RMB for the two of us. We probably could have haggled, but we're both too shy for that, so we didn't bother.

The route was: Daluoshui – Lover's Beach – Lige Peninsula – Nisai Village.

Our first stop was the Daluoshui Pier. The driver dropped us off here, saying it was a great spot for photos. The pier isn't big – just a platform built over the water with several "pig trough" boats (zhu cao chuan, the traditional dugout canoes of the Mosuo people) moored along the shore. There were many more boats here than at Goddess Bay, so we started snapping away. The boat owners tried to sell us a lake tour, but they whispered that Lige had even more boats and cheaper prices. I snuck onto one of the boats to take a photo, got scolded, and quickly jumped off.

Next was Lover's Beach (Qingren Tan) . The water was so clear that it perfectly reflected our silhouettes – two heads close together, though we were actually just complaining about how dirty our shoes were.

Then we arrived at Lige Peninsula. The driver dropped us off at the entrance and drove ahead to wait for us at the observation deck. The great thing about a private car is that there's no time limit – you can stay as long as you like.

Lige Peninsula was smaller than I had imagined. The shore was lined with pig trough boats, probably the highest concentration on the entire lake. The prices were also reasonable: 20 RMB for a half-tour, 50 RMB for a full tour. We took the half-tour. The boat was very stable, and the water was cool and incredibly clear. The boatman said that on sunny days, visibility can reach 11 or 12 meters. The peninsula across from us was covered with inns built right on the water, each with its own bar or café on the ground floor. If you have the time and money, you could stay here for a few days, cuddle a cat, play with a dog, and soak up the sun without a care in the world.

For lunch, we ate at Ouyu Xiaochu (A Chance Encounter Kitchen) on Lige Peninsula. They only had two options: rice noodles (mixian) and dumplings. Both were light in flavor and made by the owner herself. The décor was simple and fresh, and the place was filled with succulents. We ordered one of each, and they were pretty good. We also met a local guy selling dried apple slices. We tried a few, liked them, and bought two bags for just 10 RMB.

After lunch, we planned to hike up to the Lige observation deck. The driver said we could climb the path on the mountain opposite, but after walking a bit, I couldn't find the trail, so I gave up.

Final Thoughts: Some Honest Words

This trip to Yunnan didn't have perfect weather. It wasn't meticulously planned. We even made fools of ourselves running out of cash. But it's precisely these imperfections that make the memories feel real and alive.

A few practical tips for those of you about to set off:

1. Bring enough cash! Many places in Yunnan don't accept mobile payments, especially for scenic area tickets, buses, and street food stalls. We almost couldn't enter the Lugu Lake scenic area because we didn't have enough cash. It was so awkward I wanted to crawl into a hole.

1. Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. Kunming is much drier than Lijiang or Dali. Bring extra face masks, toner, facial mist, and sunscreen. You'll thank me later.

2. Do your research in advance. Even though we had a comfortable trip, we wasted quite a bit of time and money. Planning ahead on food, accommodation, and transportation can save you a lot.

3. Renting a four-wheeled electric cart is a game-changer for circling the lake. But make sure to confirm the route in advance – some areas have checkpoints.

4. If your ears hurt when flying, buy gum before you get to the airport. The prices inside are double. Learned that the hard way.

1. Don't get into cheap vans that drivers shout at you to board on the street. Only use official transportation for safety.

Finally, let me share a quote that I love:

"In your eyes, I see both spring and autumn – more beautiful than any mountains or rivers I have ever seen or loved."

May every journey you take have the person you love by your side, and surprises waiting along the way.

The End