Head West to Dali: The Most Comprehensive, Beautiful, and Practical Travel Guide

"Since you're unhappy, since you don't like it here, why not head west to Dali?"

That line, like a seed, has taken root in the hearts of countless people longing to escape the city's clamor. Since the film Heartfelt Blossoms hit theaters, Dali has transformed from a quiet border town into a synonym for "poetry and distant horizons" for many. As a photography enthusiast who has been backpacking for over a year, I've visited Dali many times, on and off. I know every inch of its scenery, every guesthouse, and every photo-worthy corner as well as I know an old friend.

This guide is something I've measured out with my footsteps and my lens. Whether you're a first-time visitor or looking for an in-depth exploration, I hope I can help you find your own "Dali story."

Pre-Trip Preparations: Don't Cut Corners

Health & Sun Protection

The UV rays in Yunnan are far from gentle, unlike its climate. Bring sunscreen with at least SPF 50+ — don't be stingy with it, or you'll regret the sunburn repair work later. Post-sun care is also crucial. I'm in the habit of drenching my face with a hydrating mist after washing it; it calms the skin more directly than any mask.

Also, it's a good idea to carry some digestive medicine, cold medicine, and anti-inflammatories with you. Stomach issues and acclimatization problems are common on the road. If you're visiting in summer, rain gear is essential — Dali's weather is fickle and changes on a dime. The countryside is also full of mosquitoes, so don't forget insect repellent.

What to Wear

For the ladies who love taking photos, bring your maxi dresses. White, red, bold patterns — the brighter, the better. Remember, we're going for the most casual, most colorful outfits. Leave your city fashion sense at home for now.

High heels? Absolutely not. The cobblestone streets of the old town will make you regret every step. Once in Dali, don't forget to find an elderly lady at the street side to braid you some colorful hair braids (cǎi biàn). It usually costs 10 yuan for 5 braids, and they look fantastic in photos.

How to Get to Dali: A Complete Transport Guide

By Train (Best for Budget Travelers)

From Kunming, a hard-seat ticket costs 64 yuan, and a hard-sleeper is 103 yuan. The journey takes 5-8 hours. There's a direct shuttle bus from Kunming Airport to the train station (14 yuan per person). The fastest train departs at 11:00 AM and arrives in Dali at 4:20 PM. If you want to save a night's accommodation, you can take an overnight train departing between 8:00 PM and 11:00 PM — just sleep through the ride.

Coming from Lijiang is even simpler: a hard-seat ticket costs 24 yuan, and the trip takes about two and a half hours. There's a direct bus from Lijiang Old Town to the train station.

From the train station to Dali Old Town: Take Bus No. 8 (2 yuan) and get off at "Feng Hua Xue Yue Hotel" (Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon Hotel). Alternatively, you can take a minivan (20 yuan per person).

From the train station to Shuanglang: There are minivans outside the station for 25 yuan per person, a one-hour direct ride. Or, first take a bus to Xiaguan Bus Station, then a local bus (15 yuan per person) for about an hour and a half.

By Bus

From Kunming West Bus Station to Dali, tickets cost 105 yuan, and the trip takes over 5 hours. From Lijiang Bus Station to Dali, tickets are around 50 yuan, taking about two and a half hours. Once at Dali Bus Station, you can take Bus No. 8 or a minibus to the old town and Shuanglang.

By Plane

Many major cities now offer direct flights to Dali. Alternatively, you can fly to Kunming first and then connect — the prices are often very reasonable. From the airport to Shuanglang (30 km) and the old town (40 km), you'll generally need to hire a private car or join a shared ride — a private car to the old town costs 120 yuan, to Shuanglang 180 yuan. There's also an airport shuttle bus to Xiaguan, Dali's city center, for 20 yuan per person.

Dali Old Town: A Complete Guide to Eating, Sleeping, and Exploring

Where to Stay

Guesthouse prices in the old town generally range from 100 to 200+ yuan per night. There are also plenty of dormitory beds available (20-35 yuan per person). I don't have any specific recommendations because there are so many choices to suit every budget.

Must-Try Foods

1. Cold Chicken Rice Noodles (Liángjī Mǐxiàn): At "Zai Hui Shou" on the upper section of Renmin Road, 10 yuan per bowl. Sour, spicy, and appetite-whetting.
2. Grilled Scallops (Kǎo Shàn): At "Yang Ji" at the intersection of Renmin Road and Fuxing Road, 5 yuan each. Crispy and delicious.
3. Late-Night Eatery (Shēn Yè Shí Táng): On the middle section of Renmin Road, open from 11:00 PM to 4:00 AM. Perfect for night owls.
4. Barbecue (Shāo Kǎo): At the north gate of the old town. I recommend chicken feet and grilled tofu.
5. Free Vegetarian Meal (Miǎn Fèi Sù Shí): At the south gate of the old town, served at 11:00 AM and 6:00 PM. You'll need to queue. Remember to eat cleanly and stay quiet.
6. Chongqing Hotpot (Chóngqìng Huǒ Guō): On the middle section of Yeyu Road, opposite the post office. About 70 yuan per person.
7. Braised Pork Rice Noodles (Pá Ròu Ěr Sī): At "Weishan Braised Pork Rice Noodles" on the middle section of Yu'er Road, 8 yuan per bowl. Soft, sticky, and full of flavor.
8. Dali Yogurt (Dàlǐ Suān Nǎi): 8 yuan per bottle. Incredibly delicious — a must-buy.

Recommended Bar

Bad Monkey Bar on the upper section of Renmin Road. You have to try their house-brewed Dali Dark Beer (Dàlǐ Hēi Pí) , 30 yuan per pint. Rich and smooth.

Shopping Tips

The cheapest Bai ethnic clothing can be found on the street at the very top of Yangren Street (Foreigner Street). For souvenirs, I recommend Jiahua Flower Pastries (Jiā Huá Xiān Huā Bǐng) and Rose Jam (Méi Guī Jiàng) — perfect gifts to take home.

How to Explore the Old Town

During the day, you can visit the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple (Chóng Shèng Sì Sān Tǎ) (2 km from the old town, 90 yuan entrance fee), hike Cangshan Mountain, or explore the Tianlong Babu Film Studio. If you want a hassle-free option, I recommend signing up for a one-day Erhai Lake Cruise (Èr Hǎi Yóu Lún) (150 yuan per person) — great value, and every guesthouse can book it for you.

Special Recommendation: Electric Scooter Ride on West Erhai Lake Road (Huán Hǎi Xī Lù)

Rent an electric scooter (50 yuan per day). Route: Old Town → Caicun Village → West Erhai Lake Road → Haishe Park → Xizhou Ancient Town. One-way distance: 25 km. The scenery along the way is stunning, especially at Haishe Park (Hǎi Shé Gōng Yuán) and Xizhou Ancient Town (Xǐ Zhōu Gǔ Zhèn) — absolute prime spots for photography.

Caicun Village (Cái Cūn) is only 2 km from the old town, a half-hour walk. In the evening, walking along the rice paddies, smelling the grass and the Erhai breeze — that kind of peace is something you'll never find in the city.

Xizhou Ancient Town (Xǐ Zhōu Gǔ Zhèn) is famous for its courtyards, where many famous people have stayed. The exterior walls are especially beautiful, making it a favorite for photographers.

Along West Erhai Lake Road (Huán Hǎi Xī Lù): Green roads, electric scooters, and Erhai Lake create a stunning picture. Cycling is a must-do experience.

The Couple's Tree (Fū Qī Shù): At the entrance to Haishe Park, you'll see newlyweds taking wedding photos here every day. You'll definitely spot them when you go.

Sunflower Fields (Xiàng Rì Kuí Tián): In summer and autumn, large sunflower fields bloom brilliantly along West Erhai Lake Road. Don't miss them.

Recommended Seaside Guesthouses on West Erhai Lake Road

1. Wutong Inn (Wú Tóng Kè Zhàn) (Filming location for Heartfelt Blossoms): Longkan Village. Rates: 500-1,200 yuan.
2. Wushe Inn (Wú Shě Kè Zhàn) : Majiuyi Village. Rates: 700-1,200 yuan.
3. Shangdu Island Inn (Shàng Dù Dǎo Kè Zhàn) : 8 km from the old town. Rates: 400-800 yuan. Excellent value.
4. Linghai Muyue Inn (Líng Hǎi Mù Yuè Kè Zhàn) : Taoyuan Village. Rates: 360-1,800 yuan. The most photographed guesthouse in Dali for portraits.
5. Taoyuan Inn (Táo Yuán Kè Zhàn) : Taoyuan Village. Rates: 600-1,800 yuan.
6. Haixi Inn (Hǎi Xī Kè Zhàn) : Taoyuan Village. Rates: 600-1,600 yuan.
7. Budget Hostel (Qīng Lǚ) : Next to Sifang Street in Xizhou Ancient Town. Dorm beds: 30 yuan per person.

Shuanglang: Poetic Living by Erhai Lake

How to Get to Shuanglang

From Dali Old Town, take a minibus from "Feng Hua Xue Yue Hotel" (14 yuan per person, 1 hour) or a minivan (25 yuan per person). Shuanglang also has direct buses to Kunming (150 yuan, 5.5 hours) and Lijiang (80 yuan, 2.5 hours).

Where to Stay in Shuanglang

1. Shuanglang Nuannuan (Shuāng Láng Nuǎn Nuǎn) (Dajianpang Village): The most beautiful hostel in Shuanglang. Sea-view dorm beds: 60-100 yuan. Best for budget travelers.
2. Qingtian Inn (Qíng Tiān Kè Zhàn) (Entrance to Yuji Island): Rates: 340-380 yuan. Excellent value for a sea-view room, with a gorgeous courtyard.
3. Zhima Kaihua Inn (Zhī Má Kāi Huā Kè Zhàn) (Yuji Island): Rates: 360-800 yuan. Fresh, clean style, affordable for students.
4. Lanting Bieyuan (Lán Tíng Bié Yuàn) (Dajianpang Village): Rates: 350-1,200 yuan. Wide open sea views, beautiful common areas, great value.
5. Haidisheng Huo Inn (Hǎi Dì Shēng Huó Kè Zhàn) (Dajianpang Village): Famous for its white tables. Dorm beds: 120 yuan. Private rooms: 380-1,600 yuan. Has four courtyards.
6. Cunshu (Cūn Shù) (Yuji Island): Rates: 1,200-1,800 yuan. The best value among high-end guesthouses in Shuanglang.
7. Haiyue Lou Inn (Hǎi Yuè Lóu Kè Zhàn) (Yuji Island): Bai ethnic architecture. Dorm beds: 30 yuan per person. The cheapest dorm beds in Shuanglang.
8. Bendao 63 (Bàn Dǎo 63 Hào) (Dajianpang Village): Rates: 400-1,200 yuan. Great viewing position, artistic common areas.

How to Explore Shuanglang

1. Watch the Sunrise: Around 7:20 AM, take a boat out onto Erhai Lake to watch the sunrise. 20 yuan per person, or 100 yuan to charter the boat for two hours.
2. The White Tables (Bái Zhuō Zi): In the common area of Haidisheng Huo Inn in Dajianpang Village. Free to take photos, but there's often a queue of about half an hour.
3. Electric Scooter Ride to Wase (Wā Sè): Small scooters: 40 yuan/day. Large ones: 50 yuan/day. Route: Shuanglang → East Erhai Lake Road → Erhai First Bend → Wase Fishing Boats → Wase Town Water Jet. Total distance: 18 km. This is the most beautiful stretch of road for cycling around Erhai — the best section for photos and sea views.
4. Yuji Island (Yù Jǐ Dǎo): Home to Yang Liping's Sun Palace and Moon Palace. Entrance fee: 20 yuan (free for guests staying on Yuji Island with a key card). Nanzhao Style Island (Nán Zhào Fēng Qíng Dǎo) costs 50 yuan.
5. Boat Ride: Usually 15-20 yuan per person, circling Sun Palace and Nanzhao Style Island.
6. Watch the Sunset: The sunset in Shuanglang is breathtakingly beautiful.

Where to Eat in Shuanglang

1. Jixiang Hong (Jí Xiáng Hóng): Near the big banyan tree in Shuanglang town. A famous Bai ethnic restaurant.
2. Wenhua Dayuan (Wén Huà Dà Yuàn): A seaside restaurant serving Bai cuisine at mid-range prices.
3. Barbecue (Shāo Kǎo): The barbecue stall under the big banyan tree — full of local atmosphere.
4. Shuimo Private Kitchen (Shuǐ Mò Sī Fáng Xiǎo Guǎn): Near Shuanglang Primary School. Fine, boutique home-style cooking.
5. Jingji Ban Xiaoshi (Jīng Jì Bàn Xiǎo Shí): Local dishes at affordable prices. Recommended: Heartbreaking Fatty Beef (shāng xīn féi niú), Country Bumpkin Eggplant (xiāng bā lǎo qié zi), Lotus Root Strips (ǒu tiáo), and Raw Fried Ribs (shēng zhá pái gǔ).
6. Haiyun Renjia (Hǎi Yùn Rén Jiā): Good taste, environment, and service. Suitable for students.
7. Mumian Desserts (Mù Mián Tián Pǐn): Locations at the Yuji Island intersection and in Dajianpang Village. Recommended: Wood Pudding (mù kāng bù dīng) and Mango Pancakes (máng guǒ bān jǐ).
8. Anna Cat House (Anna Māo Wō) (Yuji Island): Home to six incredibly cute cats. Try their various cat-themed coffees.

Unmissable Scenery

Seagulls and Winter

In winter, near Xiaoputuo in Wase Town, the lake is covered with seagulls. That's the most beautiful season for Erhai Lake. Summer has no seagulls, but the ride along East Erhai Lake Road is still comfortable. There are stalls selling fruit and drinks by the roadside. Sitting by Erhai Lake, you feel like the whole world has slowed down.

The Torch Festival (Huǒ Bǎ Jié)

Every August, the Torch Festival in Dali's Zhoucheng Village is incredibly raw and lively. Last year, I went even though it was raining, and I had a fantastic time celebrating with a group of friends from Northeast China. If you happen to be there during the festival, make sure to experience it.

Sunflowers and Gesang Flowers (Gé Sāng Huā)

In summer and autumn, Dali's sunflower fields and Gesang flower seas are in full bloom. Gesang flowers are especially common in Yunnan, Sichuan, Qinghai, and Tibet. They grow by the water, on grasslands, and on plateaus — beautiful enough to make your heart ache.

The Erhai Moon (Èr Hǎi Yuè) and Fire Clouds (Huǒ Shāo Yún)

The "Erhai Moon" in Dali Old Town is a classic sight. Fire clouds are even more common — you can see them more than half the month. The sight of the lake, Shuanglang, and Cangshan Mountain burning red is something I'll never forget.

Four Geese and Bougainvillea (Sān Jiǎo Méi)

On East Erhai Lake Road, you'll often see four geese. Many people mistake them for ducks — they're incredibly endearing. Bougainvillea is a common flower in Dali, climbing up walls and looking fantastic in photos.

A Final Word

I've finally finished writing this guide. My Chinese isn't great — I only passed my high school Chinese exams twice out of countless attempts, once being the college entrance exam. But this guide was written with my heart — comprehensive, practical, and honest.

Dali is a place worth coming back to again and again. I've been here many times. Whenever I'm tired or just want a place to zone out, I find myself coming back here. These days, I prefer staying in Shuanglang, quietly resting, quietly recuperating, before continuing on to the next leg of my journey.

I hope this guide is useful to you. If you come to Dali, take your time. Feel the wind off Erhai Lake, the nights in the old town, the morning light in Shuanglang. Maybe love is waiting for you by the lakeside. Maybe your story is just beginning.

May you find your own piece of scenery on the road.

(For more travel tips and photography guides, feel free to visit my Weibo: goom果果)