Hidden Among the Misty Mountains of Southeast Yunnan Lies a Real-Life Shangri-La—Qiubei Puzhehei

We're always searching for faraway places, yet we often overlook the hidden paradises right under our noses. The term "Shangri-La" has been overused, and every trendy scenic spot is now packed with crowds snapping photos. What's truly rare is a place where you can quiet your mind and experience the coexistence of natural beauty and everyday life. In southeastern Yunnan, Qiubei Puzhehei is exactly that—a place without excessive polish, yet possessing a质朴 (pǔzhì, rustic simplicity) and vitality that captivates at first sight.

In the spring of 2017, I brought my child to this land I had long yearned for. At that time, Puzhehei had just risen to fame thanks to the TV drama Eternal Love (三生三世十里桃花), but it hadn't yet been overwhelmed by waves of tourists. Looking back now, that journey still feels like a dream—a dream woven from mountains, waters, countryside, and family bonds.

First Glimpse of Puzhehei: A Journey That Began with a High-Speed Rail Ticket

Why Puzhehei?

In 2013, when the first season of Dad, Where Are We Going? aired, that little village hidden in southeastern Yunnan—with its karst landscape and Yi ethnic culture—quietly planted a seed of longing in my heart. Later, the ethereal realm of Qingqiu in Eternal Love made that longing more concrete and urgent.

But what truly turned the dream into reality was the Nanning-Kunming High-Speed Railway, which opened in January 2017. Dubbed "China's Most Scenic High-Speed Rail," this line shortened the distance from Guangzhou to Puzhehei from over 20 hours on a slow green train to just over 6 hours. As the train cut through mountains and swept past fields, and the scenery outside the window shifted from gray to lush green, I knew that the long-awaited "Shangri-La" was finally about to appear before my eyes.

Itinerary Overview: A 4-Day, 3-Night In-Depth Experience

• Day 1: Guangzhou South Station → Puzhehei Station, check into Puzhehei Village
• Day 2: Caihuaqing (filming location for Eternal Love) → Xianrendong Village → Puzhehei Lake → Xihuang Wetland → Qinglong Mountain
• Day 3: Wangshui Terrace → Shede Grassland → Bailong Lake → Rose Garden
• Day 4: Puzhehei Wetland Park → Return journey

Living Within the Scenery: Two Villages, Two Experiences

Puzhehei Village: Slow Life Amid Everyday Hustle and Bustle

Within the Puzhehei scenic area, there are two main villages: Puzhehei Village and Xianrendong Village. The former is home to over a thousand households, while the latter is smaller and more refined. For our first two nights, we stayed at a guesthouse called "Autumn Moon Without End" (秋月无边) in Puzhehei Village—the name alone filled me with joy.

The guesthouse was situated by the lake, right across from Qinglong Mountain. There was a small square at the entrance, and with luck, we could catch a bonfire party in the evening. What I remember most fondly was the large terrace on the third floor. In the early morning, standing on that terrace, watching sunlight filter through the mist onto the fields, with distant mountains like ink washes and dewdrops sparkling among the trees—at that moment, all the anxiety of city life melted away.

Yunjushui: A Peaceful Retreat Near the Train Station

For our final night, we chose a guesthouse called Yunjushui (云水居), not far from the high-speed rail station. Its Chinese classical-style décor, with solid wood furniture exuding an antique charm, provided a serene end to our journey.

Practical Tips for Transportation and Accommodation

How to Get There

• High-Speed Rail: Guangzhou South Station → Puzhehei Station, approximately 7 hours. First-class seat: ¥506.5 (about $70 USD); second-class seat: ¥359.5 (about $50 USD). Children's tickets are based on height: free for children under 1.2 meters (3.9 feet), and a child ticket is required for those between 1.2 and 1.5 meters (3.9–4.9 feet).
• Station to Scenic Area: Taxi takes about 30 minutes, costing ¥50–60 (about $7–$8 USD); alternatively, take Bus No. 7 for ¥3 (about $0.40 USD) per person.

Getting Around Within the Scenic Area

• Horse-Drawn Carriages: ¥5–10 (about $0.70–$1.40 USD) per person, shuttling between Puzhehei Village, Xianrendong Village, and various attractions. From Puzhehei Village to Caihuaqing or Qinglong Mountain, it's about ¥5; to Xianrendong Village or Swan Lake, about ¥10.
• Private Car Hire: For farther attractions like Shede Grassland and Bailong Lake, it's best to hire a private car. From Puzhehei Village to Shede Grassland takes about 1.5–2 hours; a small car costs ¥500–600 (about $70–$85 USD), and during the off-season, you can negotiate down to around ¥400 (about $55 USD). Ask your guesthouse owner to help arrange it.

Where to Stay

• Puzhehei Village: Close to Qinglong Mountain and the Eternal Love filming location, within walking distance. Ideal for travelers who enjoy convenience and a lively atmosphere.
• Xianrendong Village: Quieter and more refined, perfect for those seeking a romantic ambiance.
• Qiubei County Town: About 10 kilometers (6 miles) from the scenic area, suitable for self-driving travelers, with more affordable prices.

Tickets and Attractions: What's Worth Your Time?

Must-Visit Attractions

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Qinglong Mountain (青龙山)—The Best Panoramic View of Puzhehei

At over 1,500 meters (4,900 feet) above sea level, Qinglong Mountain is the highest point in Puzhehei. The climb isn't too difficult, and you can reach the summit in just over half an hour. It's a bit tiring, but when the full karst landscape panorama unfolds before your eyes, it's all worth it.

This is the perfect spot for watching sunrise and sunset. I recommend heading up between 3 and 4 PM, finding a good spot, and quietly waiting for the sun to sink. If you go too late, you'll end up watching from among the crowd.

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Bailong Lake (摆龙湖)—A Hidden "Mother River"

Located 30 kilometers (19 miles) from Puzhehei, Bailong Lake is one of Yunnan's ten largest lakes. Its water is a stunning blue-green, so clear you'll want to jump right in. There aren't many people here, making it ideal for spreading out a picnic blanket and just sitting by the lake, lost in thought. You can also take a boat tour (electric sightseeing boat: ¥60 per person, about $8 USD). There are shallow areas under the bridge where many people play in the water, but be sure to prioritize safety.

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Shede Grassland (舍得草场)—A "Little Shangri-La" at 2,500 Meters

"Shede, shede—you have to let go to gain." This place, over 50 kilometers (31 miles) from Qiubei County Town, served as the boundary between the Qingqiu realm and the Wing realm in Eternal Love. At 2,500 meters (8,200 feet) above sea level, the grassland rolls on endlessly, with cattle and sheep grazing leisurely. It may not match the vastness of the Inner Mongolian steppes, but it has a charm all its own.

Important reminder: Apply sunscreen! Sunscreen! Sunscreen! Even on cloudy days, the UV rays are brutally strong. Bring a long-sleeved jacket to protect against both wind and sun. There are no restaurants on the grassland, so pack your own food.

⭐⭐⭐⭐ Caihuaqing (菜花箐)—Filming Location for Eternal Love

Less than a half-hour walk from Puzhehei Village, or a short horse-drawn carriage ride (¥5 per person, about $0.70 USD), brings you to this popular Instagram-worthy spot. The scenes from the TV drama come to life right before your eyes: the misty lake, the distant mountains, and that stretch of "peach blossom forest"—the blossoms may be fake, but the scenery is genuinely beautiful.

⭐⭐⭐⭐ Xihuang Wetland (西荒湿地)—The Joy of Boating on the Lake

Located at the entrance of the scenic area, Xihuang Wetland has water as clear as a mirror. Take an electric bamboo raft (¥100 per person, about $14 USD, approximately 60 minutes), and let the gentle breeze caress your face—it's incredibly relaxing. If you come in June or July when the lotus flowers are in bloom, the scenery is even more breathtaking.

Other Attractions

• Puzhehei Lake: Free entry. A high-altitude freshwater lake with crystal-clear water, perfect for boating.
• Swan Lake: ¥80 per person (about $11 USD). A great place to see swans, ideal for families with children.
• Electric Sightseeing Boat: ¥260 per person (about $36 USD), tour duration about 150 minutes, covering multiple attractions.
• Willow Leaf Boat: ¥200 per person (about $28 USD), includes a sightseeing bus ticket and admission to Huoba Cave and Guanyin Cave.

Little Joys Along the Journey: Moments Frozen in Time

Running Wild in the Countryside: Giving a Child an Unforgettable Childhood

What's most unforgettable about childhood, if not those days of running wild in the countryside? Bare feet in the fields, catching tadpoles by the pond, playing the flute while riding a water buffalo… These are memories that children growing up in the city can hardly experience.

So we brought our son, escaping the concrete jungle, to Puzhehei. Together, we walked along country paths, watching wisps of cooking smoke rise from chimneys. Together, we rode horse-drawn carriages, laughing as we bounced along the bumpy roads. Together, we skipped stones by the lake, watching the ripples spread outward. The photos we took captured only a small part; more of the scenery is stored in our minds, digested into our emotions, and seeped into our very lives.

On Shede Grassland: Let It Blow, My Untamed Freedom

The wind on Shede Grassland is fierce—strong enough to turn your hair into a wild mess. But standing at 2,500 meters, gazing at the cattle and sheep beneath the blue sky and white clouds, that feeling of freedom is something you can never experience in the city.

At the Rose Garden: Stumbling Upon a Winery

On the way to Shede, we happened upon a winery surrounded by vineyards. It's about 3–4 kilometers (2–2.5 miles) from the Puzhehei scenic area. If you're driving yourself, staying here could be a great option.

Final Thoughts: Memories Worth Taking Away

Four days—neither too long nor too short. But what Puzhehei gave me goes far beyond what these words can express.

Most Worthwhile Attractions: 1. Qinglong Mountain: Panoramic views, sunrise and sunset 2. Bailong Lake: Tranquil waters, perfect for daydreaming 3. Shede Grassland: Freedom and vastness on the high plateau 4. Caihuaqing: The nostalgia of Eternal Love 5. Xihuang Wetland: Leisurely boating on the lake

Practical Reminders: - There's a big temperature difference between morning and evening, so bring a jacket - Sunscreen! Sunscreen! Sunscreen! - Shede Grassland is at high altitude and windy; wear sunglasses - If you're hiring a car for Shede and Bailong Lake, you can visit both on the same day

Some say the meaning of travel isn't about what you see, but who you see it with. For me, the meaning of Puzhehei lies in this: it showed me a real Shangri-La—without deliberate artifice, without excessive commercialization. Just mountains, waters, countryside, the warmth of everyday life, and the person who accompanied me to take in all the sights.

If you, too, long for such a place, hop on the high-speed rail and head to southeastern Yunnan. Trust me—it won't disappoint.

This article is based on personal travel experiences. Information may have changed since publication; please verify the latest details before your trip.