I Like You, Like the Wind That Travels Eight Thousand Miles Without Asking When It Will Return – A Complete Guide to Our Family Self-Drive Trip to Yunnan (Packed with Practical Tips)

May. The sun is just right, the breeze is gentle. It's the season of blooming flowers – the perfect time to take the family on a spontaneous trip. So, I brought along my parents, my husband, and my child, and set foot once again on the magical land of Yunnan. This time, we weren't chasing time or worrying about the weather. We just wanted to give ourselves and our family a lazy, warm holiday. No long-winded emotional ramblings here – only solid, practical advice. From food, clothing, accommodation, and transport to avoiding tourist traps at the sights, I hope this helps anyone already planning a trip or already on the road.

Why Choose Self-Drive? All About Car Rental

Traveling with elderly parents and children, the biggest fear is the exhaustion of moving around. So, we decisively rented a Chevrolet Captiva from Shenzhou Car Rental and set off on a self-drive trip from Lijiang to Dali. Renting a car isn't complicated, but there are a few details you absolutely need to know:

Car Rental Process

1. Book the Vehicle: Choose your model online in advance and confirm the pickup time.
2. Complete the Paperwork: Bring your ID card, driver's license, and credit card to the rental point. A credit card pre-authorization (as a vehicle deposit) is required, though you can also use Alipay's Sesame Credit as a substitute.
3. Pick Up the Car: Inspect the car's condition, then pick it up with a full tank of gas.
4. Return the Car: Return it with a full tank. The rental company will release the previous pre-authorization, you pay the rental fee, and then another pre-authorization is made for traffic violation deposits.
5. Release of Deposit: If there are no traffic violations, the deposit is automatically released after 30 days. If you handle any violations yourself, it's also released. If you don't handle them, the company will deduct the amount based on the points deducted.

Important Notes

• Carefully Inspect the Car: Check the body, tires, lights, and brakes – don't miss a thing.
• Consider Buying Collision Damage Waiver (CDW): There are often low concrete posts on roadsides in Yunnan, making it easy to scrape the car when parking. With CDW, you won't have to pay for scratches or bumps.
• Plan Your Fuel in Advance: Especially if you're going to Lugu Lake, where gas stations are extremely scarce. Make sure you have enough fuel.

Travel Tips

• If you're staying at an inn inside the ancient town, many offer airport pickup services. It's best to contact them in advance.
• Yunnan's weather is changeable, with large temperature differences between morning and evening. Be sure to bring a jacket, a shawl, and rain gear. Sun protection and hydration are top priorities – don't be fooled by the cool weather.
• Some inns offer discount cards for attractions. Remember to ask before you head out.
• Good news: The Lijiang Old Town no longer requires the purchase of an "Ancient Town Maintenance Fee."

Lijiang: Slow Time on the Bluestone Slabs

Lijiang is the kind of place that captures your heart at first sight. Grey bricks and black tiles, mottled city walls, sunlight bathing everything – time seems to stand still. While youth is still with us, come to Lijiang and meet what you are meant to meet.

Accommodation Recommendation

Since my parents are used to staying in hotels, we chose the Junlan International Hotel (Seven Star Street) outside the ancient town. Exit the hotel, turn right, cross the street at the intersection, and go up the steps to enter the old town. Climbing the steps takes you to Lion Hill, where there are many inns with great views. Order a drink and overlook the entire ancient town – it's incredibly pleasant.

Lijiang Food Map

South Gate & North Gate: - Ama Preserved Pork Ribs (South Gate): Great value for money, affordable dishes. - Apo Preserved Pork Ribs (North Gate Slope, Yuyuan Road): Classic preserved pork rib hotpot.

Zhongyi Lane: - Ten-Year-Old Brand (No. 109 Zhongyi Lane) - Juyi Tang (No. 118 Zhongyi Lane) - Village Preserved Pork Ribs Hotpot (No. 200 Zhongyi Lane) - Alili (No. 7 Zhongyi Lane, next to Mu Mansion): Recommend tree flower scrambled eggs, stuffed tofu stewed beef, potato dumplings, Naxi fried rice.

Yinyu Lane: - Small Guoba Naxi Cuisine (Yinyu Lane): Extremely popular, get there early. Recommend plum wine, signature Naxi grilled meat, assorted wild mountain vegetables, signature claypot chicken. The grilled meat isn't greasy – superb!

Wuyi Street: - No. 88 Snack Shop (No. 88 Xingren Upper Section, Wuyi Street): Cheap with a wide variety. Recommend chicken bean jelly, stuffed tofu, rice blood sausage, "water spinach" (water morning glory), king mushroom three-fresh soup. - He Shu Restaurant (Zhenxing Lane, Wuyi Street): Recommend salmon, steam pot chicken, copper drum rice. - Amayi (No. 18 Xingren Lower Section, Wuyi Street): Featured on A Bite of China Season 3 – highly recommended! Preserved pork rib hotpot, small stir-fried meat, horse caravan grilled meat are all signatures. - A'an Yogurt & Ding Ding Dang Dang Yogurt (Wuyi Street): At the latter, you can choose your own toppings – must add pine nuts.

Qiyi Street: - Yun Xueli Restaurant (No. 95 Xingwen Lane, Qiyi Street): Recommend steam pot chicken soup, self-ground spring water tofu, secret recipe snow mountain fish. - Er Kuai Shi Guang (No. 43 Chongren Lane, Qiyi Street): Red pine nut juice is full of pine nut flavor, delicious.

Huama Street: - Tuojiang Fish House (No. 19 Huama Street): Salmon meat is fresh and delicious.

Snack Recommendations: Bang Bang Chicken, stuffed tofu, Lijiang yogurt, Naxi rice cake, wild mushroom with bird eggs, pineapple cake, highland barley fruit.

Must-See Spots in Lijiang Ancient Town

1. Mu Mansion: Ming and Qing dynasty architecture, luxurious and grand, no less than the mansions of princes and nobles. Guided tours are available. The second floor of Sanqing Hall offers a panoramic view of the entire ancient town – the best viewing spot besides Lion Hill.
2. Lion Hill: The primary viewing platform is Wangu Tower (entrance fee 50 RMB). Pass through Sifang Street to go up the hill. The scenic area closes around 5-6 PM, but there are bars on the hill where you can see the panoramic view of the ancient town. Juice costs 50 RMB per cup, viewing fee is 5 RMB per person.
3. Big Waterwheel: Next to it are Dongba wishing wind chimes, said to be very effective. Walking straight from the Big Waterwheel leads to Bar Street.
4. Lijiang Ancient Town Wax Museum: First floor is free, second floor requires a fee.
5. Wenchang Palace: Go up the hill from the right side of the Big Waterwheel. There's a viewing platform in front, also offering a panoramic view of the ancient town.
6. Dayan Flower Lane: Close to the North Gate, suitable for strolling and taking photos.

Dali: Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moonlight Await You

Dali, in my eyes, is like a graceful woman, her makeup unfaded, quietly waiting for her beloved's return. The wind gently rises, flowers fall in the breeze. The night is slightly cool, the moon is like a hook.

Dali Ancient Town has four gates: South Gate (most lively, with the character "Dali" inscribed by Guo Moruo), North Gate, West Gate (facing Cangshan Mountain, called Cangshan Gate), and East Gate (facing Erhai Lake, called Erhai Gate). The main roads inside the town are Yuer Road, Fuxing Road, Yangren Street (Foreigner Street), and Renmin Road (People's Road). Yuer Road is the main traffic artery, while the others are mostly pedestrian streets.

Dali Food Guide

Renmin Road: - I'm Waiting for You in Dali (Lower Section, No. 498 Renmin Road): Recommend yellow braised chicken, wild mushroom chicken soup pot. - Dali Lord Duan (Intersection of Renmin Road and Yeyu Road): Recommend truffle scrambled eggs, Jingpo-style lemon chicken, wrapped roasted wild mushrooms, Erhai seaweed in superior broth, Paoluda (coconut bread drink), rose wine, Nuodeng ham stir-fried桂花菌 (osmanthus mushroom), straw hat claypot chicken soup, glutinous rice ribs. - Fuxing Small Courtyard Home Cooking (Inside the entrance of the Catholic Church, middle section of Renmin Road) - Dai Flavor Small Shop (Renmin Road, very small storefront): Recommend lemongrass ribs, 2 strips for 25 RMB, lots of meat and delicious. - Zhuozhuo Flavors (No. 257 Renmin Road): Yellow braised chicken rice – incredibly satisfying.

Yuer Road: - Dai Family Village (No. 142 Middle Section, Yuer Road): Recommend hand-grabbed rice.

Huguo Road: - Old House Home Cooking (No. 49 Huguo Road): Recommend Bai-style sour and spicy fish.

Others: - Roasted Milk Fan (grilled milk sheet): Available in sweet and savory. Yang Ji Roasted Milk Fan is opposite McDonald's in the ancient town. - Zaohuishou Cold Chicken Rice Noodles - Cloud (Yunduo) Restaurant

Snack Recommendations: Pea jelly, plum wine, shrimp-egg combo, small pineapples (super sweet), pineapple fragrant cake, Dali Ranch yogurt.

Dali Attractions

1. Wuhua Tower: The landmark building of Dali Ancient Town, it has been burned down and rebuilt several times throughout history. The current Wuhua Tower was rebuilt in 1998, a four-story structure with stairs inside a jewelry store in the tower's base. It is currently under renovation and cannot be climbed.
2. Chongsheng Temple and the Three Pagodas: The royal temple of the Dali Kingdom, where 9 out of 22 kings became monks. It has profound historical significance.

Erhai Lake Loop Guide

The loop around Erhai Lake is about 130 km, divided into an East Line and a West Line. It is recommended to go clockwise, as the non-motor vehicle lane is designed for clockwise travel, and going clockwise keeps you on the lakeside, closer to the scenery. Generally, start from Dali Ancient Town, take the West Ring Road, and return via the East Ring Road. A section in the middle requires taking the expressway. During road construction, it's best to take the Dali Expressway for the West Ring Road.

Xizhou Ancient Town: Navigate to "Xizhou." Remember to find a parking lot; you can easily get a ticket parking on the roadside. - Round Corner Building: The famous "most beautiful corner." - Xilin Yuan (Xizhou Garden): Yellow exterior walls, originally the private residence of modern wealthy businessman Mr. Yang Pinxiang, a classic example of traditional Bai residential architecture.

Haishe Park (Tongue of the Sea): Near Xizhou, navigate to "Haishe Ecological Park." Parking fee is 10-20 RMB. It's about a 2 km walk into the park, or you can take a horse-drawn carriage. There's a trendy café inside, with a white house opposite, great for photos. Opening hours are 6:30-18:30, but you won't be kicked out if you stay later.

Husband and Wife Tree: Southwest of Haishe Park. There's a small path at the western end of the north end of the parking lot that leads directly to it. May everyone who sees this tree find lasting happiness.

Zhoucheng (Tie-Dye Village): Similar to Xizhou, it has many old Bai houses and shows the authentic local life. You can experience tie-dyeing for 50 RMB per person. A Bai auntie will teach you step-by-step; the whole process takes about 30 minutes.

Shuanglang: Take the expressway from Dengchuan towards Kunming/Dali direction, get off at Wase exit. During road construction, vehicles cannot enter Shuanglang. You must park in a lot and walk or take a small tuk-tuk inside. Note the driver's phone number; call him ten minutes before you want to leave, and he will come to pick you up. - Yuji Island: One of the three islands in Erhai Lake, known as the "First Village of Cang'er." Entrance fee is 10 RMB, guided tours available. Main sights are Qinglu and Yang Liping's Sun Palace and Moon Palace. Sun Palace is open only to guests staying there; Moon Palace is Yang Liping's residence.

Wase: Every winter, seagulls migrating from Siberia mostly gather here. It's also the best place on the Erhai lakeshore to watch the sunset.

Xiaoputuo (Little Putuo Island): One of the "Eight Scenes" of Erhai Lake. It's only 2 km from Wase to Xiaoputuo. You can take a boat to the island (15 RMB per person, round trip). There are snack stalls on the island selling fried small fish and shrimp, potato shred cakes (10 RMB for 3 items, you can bargain to 10 RMB for 4).

Xizhou Food

• Xizhou Baba (Flatbread): 10 RMB. Available in sweet (rose) and savory (minced pork with scallions). The savory one is better. Recommended: "Zhengzong Heshang Posu Xizhou Baba" at Sifang Street Square.
• Qingliang Xiaowu (Cool Little House): Fresh milk popsicles.
• A Ma Ying Pea Jelly: 5 RMB per bowl.
• Changgui BBQ (Ranyi Lane, Xizhou East Village)
• Liushan Men: Scallion oil noodles.
• Sifang Street Restaurant (Opposite Yan Family Mansion): Tasty and cheap. Recommend leek stir-fried river shrimp, braised pork with dipping sauce, pomegranate flower mashed potatoes.

Lugu Lake: Serene as a Painting, Eternal Beauty

The beauty of Lugu Lake is serene, pure, moving, and eternal. If there is an afterlife, I would wish to be reborn here, to bloom, bear fruit, and remain unbroken by wind and rain.

Self-Drive Route

It's about 260 km from Lijiang to Lugu Lake, a drive of 3-4 hours. Only a short section of the mountain road is unpaved; the rest is smooth. However, it's a two-way single lane, so overtaking requires caution. Watch out for slopes and road subsidence. The speed limit on Yunnan expressways is 60 km/h. Pass by the Lining Eighteen Bends Viewing Platform and the Jinsha River Viewing Platform. There's a restroom along the way that costs 1 RMB (no coins accepted, mobile payment is fine).

After entering the scenic area, you first arrive at the Lugu Lake Viewing Platform. Then descend the winding mountain road to reach the lake loop road. Gas stations are extremely rare inside the scenic area. There is a PetroChina station outside the Sichuan entrance, but you need to inform the scenic area staff to go out and refuel. So, make sure you have enough fuel before departure.

Lugu Lake Food

Daluoshui: - Impression Lakeside Fine Dining Restaurant (Second floor next to Daluoshui parking lot): Offers a self-service breakfast in the morning, tasty and cheap. - Chuanxiang Yuan: Recommend sour papaya fish, tree bark scrambled eggs, steamed chicken. - Chan Zui Guan: Recommend tree bark scrambled eggs, Mosuo-style sticky rice chicken.

Lige: - Lige Island Zhaxi Family BBQ

Langfang: - Manshan Restaurant (Inside Manshan Xiangshe Inn, the owner is from Beijing): Recommend yak meat, stone-cooked fish – tastes amazing. - Pao Ge Paper-Roasted Fish (Next to Xiao Yue Inn, Wangjiawan, Langfang Village) - Wild Stone Pot Fish: Uses a straw hat as a lid, the fish is fresh and delicious.

Lugu Lake Loop Attractions

The water quality of Lugu Lake is top-notch, known as "Goddess Water."

1. Daluoshui Village: The first village you encounter when entering Lugu Lake. It has a wide, open view and is the largest and earliest developed Mosuo village. The famous "China Lugu Lake" stone is located here. There are white chairs and tables for taking photos, completely without queues.
2. Lige Peninsula: Located at the foot of Gemu Goddess Mountain, shaped like a heart, it's called the "Heart of Lugu Lake." The Lige Viewing Platform offers the best scenery.
3. Lover's Beach: Not large in area, but with boundless scenery. There are wooden dugout canoes for photo opportunities.
4. Caohai (Grass Sea) and the Walking Marriage Bridge: Built to facilitate the "walking marriage" tradition for young people on opposite sides. You can only walk halfway across the bridge; walking to the end is said to mean the end of a relationship. There's a viewing platform on the mountain beside it for a panoramic view of the bridge. Boat rides on the Grass Sea cost 80 RMB per person. You can experience walking on the floating meadows – it feels soft and comfortable.
5. Luyuan Ya Viewing Platform: The outlet of Lugu Lake's underground water, also known as the Big Fish Outlet. Overlooks the lake. The fluttering prayer flags make a beautiful scene.
6. Gemu Goddess Mountain Cable Car: Round trip is 70 RMB per person. It uses an original open chairlift with no cover, offering a 360-degree view of the lake.
7. Dazui (Dazu Village): Located within Liangshan Prefecture, Sichuan. Built along the lake, it's positioned as an "Ancient Naxi Village." There's a small path connecting it to Daocheng Yading.
8. Goddess Bay (Formerly Zhao Family Bay): Directly facing Gemu Goddess Mountain, at the end of the road. It's the most peaceful village on the Lugu Lake shore.
9. Nisai: The legendary Lover's Tree is located here.

Stargazing Reminder: It is said that the best season for stargazing at Lugu Lake is May, with a higher chance of seeing the Milky Way.

Pig-Trough Boats: Available at every scenic spot. Prices vary by location and itinerary. Generally, a round trip from Daluoshui Pier to Liwu Bi Island costs 50 RMB per person, allowing about ten minutes to play on the island. A loop tour of the lake costs 30 RMB.

Bonfire Party: Held in the evenings at both Daluoshui and Sanjia Village. Admission starts at 8 PM, ticket price is 30 RMB per person. The one at Sanjia Village is considered more authentic and rustic.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: Lightly Made Up, a Glimpse for Eternity

It's about 30 km from Lijiang to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, all on tourist roads with a speed limit of 60-80 km/h. It takes a little over an hour to get there.

Tickets & Cable Cars

• Scenic Area Entrance Fee: 130 RMB/person (includes Ganhaizi Meadow and Blue Moon Valley, valid for a single day/entry on the day of purchase, does not include Ancient Town Maintenance Fee, Impression Lijiang show ticket, cable car fees, or eco-bus fees)
• Scenic Area Electric Cart: 20 RMB
• Big Cable Car: 180 RMB (to Glacier Park)
• Yunshanping Cable Car: 55 RMB (round trip, small cable car)
• Maoniuping Cable Car: 60 RMB (round trip, medium cable car)

Most visitors take the Big Cable Car for an up-close experience with the snow. Yunshanping is on the mountainside, good for photographing the mountain's profile. Maoniuping is more open, at a higher altitude, and closer to the snow line.

Blue Moon Valley

Known as "Little Jiuzhaigou," the stream water comes from melted snow on the mountain, crystal clear. Blocked by the mountain, it forms four lakes: Yuye Lake, Jingtan Lake, Blue Moon Lake, and Tingtao Lake. The water contains copper ions and is not drinkable.

Parking Lot

The parking lot is divided into zones 1-5. Zone 5 is closest to the scenic area entrance. Traffic police direct traffic, and it's a one-way system.

Tips

1. Prevent Altitude Sickness: The altitude is high, so move slowly. Oxygen bottles are available for purchase (50-100 RMB) at the base and on the mountain. The scenic area has a medical clinic.
2. Sun Protection: The air is thin, and UV rays are strong. Sun protection is a must.
3. Keep Warm: The temperature is low after taking the Big Cable Car up. Bring a jacket or down jacket.
4. Impression Lijiang Show: The morning show starts at 11:00 AM. You need to take the cable car down from the mountain around 10:10 AM, then transfer to a direct bus to go down. Pay attention to the queues: the blue awning is for the bus to Blue Moon Valley, the wooden awning is for the bus to the mountain base.
5. Replenish Energy: Bring energy bars, chocolate, and hot water. Queues for the cable car up the mountain can be long. You can also buy snacks at the restaurants on the mountain.
6. Cable Car Maintenance: The cable car is closed for scheduled maintenance for a fixed period each year. It's advisable to call ahead and check if it's operating before you go.

Final Thoughts

Yunnan is a place worth visiting again and again. Its beauty isn't just in a specific scenic spot, but in the lazy, free, and unworldly atmosphere. Bringing the family, driving on the road, seeing mountains and water, eating and drinking, not rushing against time, not asking when to return – this is the best kind of travel.

I hope this guide helps you. May you also encounter your own "wind, flowers, snow, and moonlight" in Yunnan.

Finally, let me leave you with a quote: "What doesn't kill you makes you stronger." May every one of you on the journey gain strength and beauty.

Note: All photos in this article were taken with a mobile phone and haven't been professionally processed – just a record of reality.