In Yunnan, I Found a Better Version of Myself

Prologue: A Spontaneous Escape

Have you ever had a moment when the city's skyscrapers suddenly felt like cages, trapping your soul in concrete and steel? The same daily routes, the endless stream of messages, time shattered into fragments—we spin like tops, forgetting why we're spinning at all. Until one afternoon, staring out at the gray sky, a voice inside me whispered: Go. Go to Yunnan.

Freedom has never been some distant, unattainable luxury. It's the most primal longing buried in every heart. But how many of us are willing to set down work, set aside responsibilities—even for just seven days—to chase it? My friend Lao Zhu and I, two girls in our early twenties, grabbed our pared-down-to-the-bare-essentials luggage on June 7, 2017, and stepped onto a journey we'd been dreaming of for far too long. No detailed itinerary, no meticulous plan—just a heart ready to "meet another version of myself."

They say Yunnan is a place for healing, a paradise for romance. But for me, who needed a chance encounter? Just soaking up the sun there was enough to warm my entire soul. All I wanted was that light streaming through the clouds onto the earth, and that better, more awakened version of myself slowly emerging along the road.

Chapter One: The Journey Itself Is the Scenery

From Meizhou to Guangzhou: The Ritual of Departure

On departure day, we didn't even have time for lunch. We grabbed two hamburgers and two Cokes at the station and jumped onto the train bound for Guangzhou. Around six in the evening, the train pulled slowly into Guangzhou Station, and we wandered aimlessly through the unfamiliar city all night—even stumbling into a "Fake Yunnan" themed restaurant, which turned out to be an amusing little detour.

At four in the morning, bleary-eyed and running on fumes, we hailed a cab to Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport. In the waiting hall, I noticed an elderly foreign couple sitting side by side, chatting and laughing, their eyes filled with the tenderness that only years together can bring. In that moment, I thought: maybe the best version of love is simply growing old together, still traveling, still laughing.

Layover Time: Doing Nothing as a Luxury

After arriving at Kunming Changshui Airport, we had over two hours to kill before our connecting flight. Lao Zhu and I sat outside Starbucks, each with a cup of coffee, watching the endless stream of passengers flow by. No phone scrolling, no work to catch up on—just sitting there in silence. It turns out that doing nothing can be its own kind of indulgence.

On the next flight, I chose a window seat. As the plane broke through the clouds, the view outside left me breathless: cotton-candy clouds rolling beneath us, the distant horizon painted in gold. In that moment, all the exhaustion melted away, replaced by an overwhelming anticipation for the journey ahead.

Chapter Two: Dali, Where Time Slows Down

First-Time Self-Driving: Two Girls on an Adventure

After landing at Lijiang Sanyi Airport, our first mission was to rent a car. We picked a Chevrolet Cruze through Shenzhou Car Rental—just 98 RMB per day, plus gas, and we could return it at a different location (with an extra 100 RMB fee). Two girls on their first road trip, giddy as kids, chattering nonstop the whole way.

But when we finally reached Dali, we hit a snag: Erhai Lake was undergoing a massive cleanup, and all those artsy, romantic lake-view rooms were sealed off with white tape. Left with no choice, we found a guesthouse inside Dali Old Town that had parking. It was called "Memory of the Wind"—Mediterranean-style decor, great value for money, and the owner was incredibly warm, calling us "little sisters" every day and even giving us flower cakes to try. The only downside was no private bathroom, but for two backpackers, that was nothing.

That night after showering, Lao Zhu and I sat on a swing by the entrance, drifting back and forth, then lay side by side in a yurt-like tent, staring up at the stars. A cool breeze, a sky full of stars—nights like this make you think: life can be this simple, this beautiful.

Circling Erhai: Chasing the Wind in a Smart Car

The next morning, we rented a tiny Smart car to circle Erhai Lake. 260 RMB per day, a 500 RMB deposit, plus gas. The owner, a man in his 50s with a thing for cleanliness, had polished the car until it gleamed. "Guests have to drive comfortably," he said. The June sun in Yunnan was brutal, but tucked inside our little Smart car with the windows down, the natural breeze was cool and refreshing. Sitting in the passenger seat, I couldn't help humming—there's nothing quite like being on the road.

Along the way, tourists kept turning to stare, and some even stopped to ask, "Hey, where did you rent that car?" Watching people on electric scooters, their faces flushed and sunburned, we silently thanked ourselves for our choice. We also stumbled upon a rose garden by accident—acres of roses blooming under the sun, the air filled with a subtle floral fragrance. The vast lawn was nearly empty, just Lao Zhu and me, listening to the soft music playing in the garden, tasting rose-infused treats, with Erhai Lake before us and Cangshan Mountain behind us. In that moment, I think I truly understood what "wind, flowers, snow, and moonlight" really means.

Chapter Three: Tengchong, the Old-Time Charm of an Ancient Town

Heshun Ancient Town: Serenity Like an Ink Painting

The drive from Dali to Tengchong took nearly five hours. The highway wound through green mountains, the scenery unfolding like a moving painting. When we arrived at Heshun Ancient Town, I was stunned: old houses with gray-blue eaves, dripping corners, moss creeping up the low walls, the air thick with the scent of dampness. No commercial noise, no crowds—just stone-paved roads quietly telling stories of years gone by.

We sat on the doorstep of Li Family Alley, watching a few elderly locals in simple clothes whispering to each other, as if we'd slipped into another era. A song melody surfaced in my mind: "Rain soaks the old yellow dog, the crazy aunt without an umbrella, step by step walking to the old house..." The lyrics matched the scene so perfectly.

Cloud Water Zen Heart: A Cup of Tea, a Thread of Fate

We'd planned to find a high spot to overlook the town, but we were drawn in by the beautiful little garden of a guesthouse called "Cloud Water Zen Heart." The owner warmly invited us to sit in his outdoor tea room, surrounded by the fragrance of gardenias. He brewed tea, lit a stick of upside-down incense, and slowly told us his stories. A mischievous little dog kept running over from afar, jumping on us with such enthusiasm that it scared me to tears—the villagers in Yunnan are warm-hearted, and even their dogs are incredibly friendly.

Rehai Hot Springs: Nature's Gift

In Tengchong, the Rehai Hot Springs are a must-visit. As soon as you enter the scenic area, you're hit with the smell of sulfur. Hot springs bubble everywhere, the natural geothermal landscape leaving you in awe. The most famous is the "Rehai Big Boiling Pot," with water temperatures close to 100°C. Two large steamers have been built nearby for visitors to cook eggs. After soaking in a real sulfur hot spring, I realized how "fake" all the hot springs I'd tried before really were. On the way up the mountain, we passed a pair of "Pregnancy Wells." Lao Zhu and I, like children, scooped up a sip and joked, "We've drunk the pregnancy well water—now we just wait for good news."

At the hot spring area, we had the good fortune to meet a group of brothers from Hangzhou. After a few casual chats, we discovered our itineraries for the next day were the same, so we decided to travel together. Lao Zhu and I had been missing Dali anyway, so it was an easy decision: "Let's go back!" Only this time, we "picked up" four companions along the way. The Hangzhou brothers took great care of us—carrying our luggage, taking turns driving for five hours, acting as our free chauffeurs. That warmth of strangers helping strangers, purely out of kindness, is something I'll never forget.

Chapter Four: Back in Dali, the Unexpected Joys

At the Foot of Cangshan Mountain: A Surprise from Finland

Back in Dali, everything felt familiar—the beautiful Erhai Lake, the rustic old town, the artsy guesthouses, the warm hosts. The Hangzhou brothers took us to meet their friends who had settled there, and we tasted the most authentic Hangzhou cuisine, which reminded me a bit of the Hakka food from Meizhou.

The next day, we all agreed to hike Cangshan Mountain. Along the way, we ran into two handsome Finnish guys, both radiating sunshine. One of them approached, speaking flawless English, politely asking for help—he'd lost his passport and needed a ride to get a replacement. Those deep, bright blue eyes, that easy smile revealing a row of perfect teeth—I couldn't help sneaking a few extra glances. Lao Zhu and one of the Hangzhou brothers had excellent English and chatted with them easily. In the car, the Finnish guy showed us a video of himself practicing tai chi—he was better at it than most Chinese people, which left me both surprised and impressed.

And just like that, three groups from different countries and regions came together. Maybe all encounters are written in the stars.

A Visit to a Local Home: Moonlight Reunion

We'd originally planned to go to Lijiang, but the Hangzhou brothers insisted we stay. They invited us to visit a local's home—a couple from Taiwan who had fallen in love with Yunnan on a chance visit and built a beautiful, artsy villa there, making it their permanent home.

On our last night in Dali, the courtyard of that village villa gathered a motley crew: us from Meizhou, the couple from Taiwan, the four brothers from Hangzhou, and a sweet family of three. I can't quite explain how dinner brought everyone together. I just remember the courtyard bathed in moonlight, everyone happy and at ease. That night, there was incredible food, endless thanks, and faces full of warmth, each with a story to tell.

When the Hangzhou brothers came out to say goodbye, I was deeply moved. That sense of "brotherhood" among men—it's so human, so genuine. This must be what it feels like to "meet an old friend in a distant land." Maybe we'll never see each other again. Maybe we'll slowly forget. But the warmth of that moment will stay in my heart forever. To them, I say: "Good people, may you have a good life."

Epilogue: Carrying Stories Home

A week flew by. Where you come from, you must return. On the day we left Yunnan, we didn't buy much—just a box of Yunnan specialty flower cakes to share with family and colleagues. On the plane, I scrolled through the photos on my phone, reliving every moment: the breeze over Erhai Lake, the stone paths of Heshun, the hot springs of Rehai, and all those unexpected encounters—the Finnish guy's blue eyes, the Hangzhou brothers' loyalty, the Taiwanese couple's serenity.

The sky in Yunnan is always blue, the sun always warm. It's a place you never want to leave, a place that demands you slow down and feel it with your heart. Here, you could lie down in the middle of the road and no one would bother you. Carefree, artsy, romantic. Those slightly sad thoughts? Under the warm sun, they turn to clear skies. Mountains, rivers, ancient towns, wooden houses, stone paths, the crisp sound of copper bells carried on the wind—I think this is what people mean when they search for paradise on earth.

Some say travel is about meeting a better version of yourself. But I think the better version was never lost—it was always there, hidden in your heart. It's just that city life moves too fast, and we forget it exists. Yunnan simply gave us a chance to stop, to sit quietly, and to get along with ourselves.

Practical Tips

• Car Rental: Shenzhou Car Rental offers great value—starting at 98 RMB per day, plus gas. You can return the car at a different location (100 RMB extra fee).
• Circling Erhai Lake: Rent a small car like a Smart for 260 RMB per day. It's easy to navigate narrow alleys and keeps you out of the sun.
• Accommodation: Guesthouses inside Dali Old Town offer good value, and the hosts are generally very welcoming. Lake-view rooms near Erhai may be unavailable due to ongoing cleanup—check ahead.
• Tengchong Rehai Hot Springs: Don't miss the sulfur hot springs. The scenic area has a自助餐厅 (self-service restaurant) and shower facilities with nice toiletries.
• Food Recommendations: Tengchong clay pot stew,稀豆粉粑粑 (pea flour cake), Yunnan rice noodles,饵丝 (sliced rice noodles), and flower cakes.
• Things to Note: The UV in Yunnan is strong—bring sunscreen. Temperature differences between day and night are significant, so pack a jacket.

Goodbye, beautiful land of colorful clouds. I will come back. Wait for me.