Lijiang - Lugu Lake - Dali: A Self-Drive Journey in Pursuit of a Blue Dream (Complete Guide + Pitfall Avoidance Tips)

Prologue: A Ten-Year Promise, Returning to the Land of Rainbows

Ten years ago, I was a little girl trailing behind my parents, wearing a little red cap, following a tour group on a whirlwind trip through Yunnan. My only memories from back then were endless crowds of tourists and blurry scenery. Ten years later, holding my partner's hand, I set foot on this mysterious land again. This time, we would set our own pace and search for that shade of blue in our hearts.

Over seven days, from Lijiang to Lugu Lake and then to Dali, there were surprises, regrets, moments of emotion, and times of utter collapse. This comprehensive guide aims to help you avoid the pitfalls I stumbled into and find your own shade of blue.

Pre-Departure Prep: A Little High-Altitude Episode

Our itinerary was: Direct flight from Qingdao to Lijiang (Day 1) → Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Day 2) → Lugu Lake (Day 3) → Return to Lijiang (Day 4) → Dali (Day 5) → Return to Lijiang, fly back to Qingdao (Day 7).

Pitfall #1: The High-Altitude Flight Experience During the flight from Qingdao to Lijiang, the plane experienced violent turbulence during descent. It felt like a rollercoaster. Screams echoed through the cabin. Although we landed safely, I felt dizzy and nauseous for a long time afterward. A reminder: if you're prone to motion sickness, have medication ready beforehand, take deep breaths during landing, and don't try to tough it out.

Day 1: First Glimpse of Lijiang, an Ancient City Sleepless at Night

Accommodation Choice: Dayan Ancient Town vs. Shuhe Ancient Town

We stayed at Xiyu Inn (喜雨客栈) in Dayan Ancient Town. Lijiang has two main ancient towns: Dayan and Shuhe. Choose Dayan if you like a lively atmosphere, Shuhe if you prefer peace and quiet. The innkeeper can arrange airport pickup, which is cheaper than taking a taxi and can drop you right at the door.

The room wasn't large, but it was quaint, clean, and tidy. There's a rooftop viewing platform that's great for photos. Important tip: choose an inn close to a main road. The old town is all cobblestone paths, and dragging your suitcase too far will drive you crazy.

Zhongyi Market: The Local Vibe

We strolled through the old town in the evening. It gets dark late in Lijiang, around 8 PM. Our first stop was Zhongyi Market — I always visit the local market in every city I go to, because it's the best place to experience the local culture and everyday life.

Located on the edge of the old town, some stalls were already closing up, but there were still plenty of fruits and yak meat. Small pineapples: 25 yuan for a bag of 8, just as sweet as Thai pineapples, and much cheaper than in the old town. Don't miss the mushrooms — all kinds, familiar and unfamiliar. I bought some dried yak meat and local honey. Spend over 200 yuan and they'll ship it for free, super convenient.

The Ultimate Flower Cake Recommendation: Mu Laoye (木老爷)

There are hundreds of flower cake shops in the old town, with wildly varying prices. We bought from many places for taste tests. Our conclusion: Mu Laoye Flower Cakes (木老爷鲜花饼) are the best! Jiahua (嘉华) is already excellent, but Mu Laoye is on another level. The flaky pastry and floral fragrance — I could eat eight a day and still want more. You'll understand once you try them.

Bar Culture: A Surprise at Diao Bar

How could you visit Lijiang without experiencing the bar culture? We went to the highly-rated Diao Bar (D调酒吧), and happened to catch the owner, Lu Ping, singing live. He's an original singer-songwriter with stories to tell, and his voice was stunning from the first note. A reminder: the old town has a rule that all bars must go silent by 11 PM, so go early if you want to hear more. However, Diao Bar switches to unplugged mode after 11, and the singer comes down to interact with the guests — a great atmosphere.

Day 2: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Majestic and Regrettable

Day Tour Choice: Lazy Cat Travel (懒猫旅行)

We booked a one-day tour of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain's big cable car through Lazy Cat Travel on Feizhu (飞猪, a travel platform). It was a small group of 8, including oxygen canisters and cold-weather gear. The driver picked us up just after 8 AM at the PetroChina station near our inn, super convenient.

Pitfall Avoidance Tip: In the off-season, there's absolutely no need to buy the overpriced tours recommended by innkeepers (promising priority tickets or skipping lines). We hardly waited at all for the big cable car or the sightseeing bus.

Snow Mountain Experience: Cold, But Worth It

It was snowing at the summit, bitterly cold, but the scenery was magnificent. At noon, the driver took us for a hotpot of chicken and cured pork ribs with wild mushrooms. The portions were generous, and they even added another pot of meat for us. In the afternoon, we visited Blue Moon Valley (蓝月谷) — the water was a jade green, earning it the nickname "Little Jiuzhaigou." The Impression Lijiang (印象丽江) show on the mountain, in my opinion, isn't as good as Lijiang Eternal Love (丽江千古情). Not recommended.

Lijiang Eternal Love: A Must-See

Since we returned early, we spontaneously booked tickets for the 7:30 PM show of Lijiang Eternal Love. Travel agencies can get tickets cheaper than buying them yourself; just scan your ID card to enter. I recommend arriving at the venue two hours early — there's plenty to explore, including free performances. At 6 PM, there's a play called The Great Earthquake (大地震), a condensed version of the earthquake scene from the Jiuzhaigou Eternal Love show. If you haven't seen the original, it's incredibly powerful.

The show itself was brilliant — in just one hour, you learn about the horse caravan culture and the Mosuo walking marriage customs, which set the stage perfectly for our trip to Lugu Lake.

Day 3: Lugu Lake, the Call of the Kingdom of Women

Accommodation & Transport: Xiyu Fuyun Inn (喜雨抚云客栈)

After watching the TV show Dear Inn (亲爱的客栈), I fell in love with Lugu Lake. This time, I booked Xiyu Fuyun Inn (located in Nisai Village), which is under the same brand as the one in Lijiang. The inn has its own shuttle bus — 60 yuan one way, 110 yuan round trip, much cheaper than going on your own.

Accommodation Choices at Lugu Lake: - Daluoshui (大落水): The earliest developed area, most complete facilities, most popular inns - Lige (里格): The most scenic, lake-view rooms right on the water's edge - Nisai (尼赛): Quiet and rustic, with the Goddess Mountain cable car right at the village entrance

Lake Circuit Tour: Disappointment in the Wind

We set off for the lake circuit at 2 PM, but encountered strong winds. It was so cold I was shivering even in my down jacket. We visited the Lige viewing platform (heart-shaped lake view), Yunnan Lover's Beach (crowded, with some inconsiderate tourists climbing trees for photos), the Grass Sea, and the Walking Marriage Bridge (stunning — the perfect combination of yellow grass, blue sky, and blue lake).

The biggest disappointment was going to Luowa Pier to take a boat to the Dear Inn filming location — all boat trips were suspended due to the wind. Finally, we went to Sichuan Lover's Beach (much more beautiful than its Yunnan counterpart), but it was so cold that my hands were shaking while taking photos.

Food Recommendation: Qiji Zhijia (骑迹之家) Teppanyaki

For dinner, we went to Qiji Zhijia Teppanyaki near our inn. A five-star recommendation! The food was delicious and affordable. The young woman running the shop was incredibly kind and was even using an app to learn English. In Nisai Village, where restaurants are scarce, stumbling upon this place was pure luck.

In the evening, we strolled along the lake. The starry sky over Lugu Lake was breathtaking — I hadn't seen such brilliant stars in years. Unfortunately, my phone couldn't capture it, so I just had to quietly enjoy the view.

Day 4: Self-Driving at Lugu Lake, True Freedom

Spontaneous Decision: We're Not Leaving

I was down because we couldn't visit the Dear Inn filming location. The next morning, I tentatively said, "What if we just... don't leave?" To my surprise, Ting (my partner) was all for it and immediately went to talk to the innkeeper. Luckily, since the inns in Lijiang and Lugu Lake are under the same brand, the owner readily helped us change our itinerary. We couldn't get a refund for the return bus fare, but we were both as happy as fools.

Renting a Car: The Right Way to Experience Lugu Lake

At noon, we rented a new energy car for 6 hours from the inn and set off! The mountain roads around Lugu Lake are winding and narrow, but as long as you drive slowly, it's fine. Bright sunshine, my loved one by my side, beautiful scenery ahead — this was the kind of trip I wanted.

We headed straight to Luowa Pier to take a boat, choosing the "Pier - Dear Inn - Princess Island" route. Princess Island was closing for renovations the next day, so today was its last day open — what luck! From the boat, we saw the little wooden cabin from Dear Inn. It was just an ordinary cabin, but my wish was fulfilled.

Self-Driving Insights: Every Spot is a View

After leaving the pier, we drove slowly, stopping whenever we wanted. Now I realize that yesterday's lake circuit tour was too rushed. Self-driving is the only way to truly appreciate Lugu Lake's beauty. We'd stop at places we liked, with no other tourists around — just the two of us quietly taking it all in. We also visited the Mosuo Museum to learn more about the walking marriage customs.

Food Recommendation: Wild Mushroom Steam Stone Pot Fish (野生菌蒸汽石锅鱼)

The top-rated restaurant on Dianping (大众点评), Wild Mushroom Steam Stone Pot Fish, was also the designated dining spot for the Dear Inn crew. We ordered a small fish weighing just over a kilogram. The fish was still moving when it arrived! Steam billowed out, and a pot of milky white fish soup emerged, incredibly fresh and delicious. The fish was tender, and paired with the potato stone pot rice, it was heavenly. The bill was only 74 yuan — I asked twice to make sure I hadn't misheard. Such a great deal!

After dinner, we went to Goddess Bay. The water sparkled, clear and emerald green. Finally, we bought a watermelon in Lugu Lake town and went back to the inn, eating it while marveling: fruits in Yunnan are just sweeter.

Day 5: Overlooking from Goddess Mountain, a Reluctant Farewell

Gemu Goddess Mountain Cable Car

In the morning, we bought cable car tickets at the inn and walked a few steps to the entrance. The cable car has an open floor, and the 20-plus-minute ride up to 3,000 meters made my legs weak. At the top, there were dozens of wild little monkeys, and the staff had built special feeding troughs for them.

After getting off the cable car, we still had to climb some stairs. At that altitude, every step was exhausting. Meanwhile, elderly folks with gray hair were zipping up — I felt humbled. From the summit, we had a panoramic view of Lugu Lake. Even though I'd seen many beautiful sights over the past two days, this moment still moved me to tears. Lugu Lake's beauty can't be captured in photos; filters are unnecessary. You can only feel it with your heart.

Moving On to Dali

After coming down, we reluctantly left Lugu Lake. We transferred to a bus for Lijiang at Lige. Along the way, we passed the Jinsha River — its vast, emerald green waters were a striking contrast to the seamless blue of Lugu Lake's sky and water.

We arrived in Lijiang around 5 PM, did a little shopping, and then boarded a bus to Dali Ancient Town (booked on Feizhu, very convenient). After a three-and-a-half-hour ride, we arrived at Tanmin Guesthouse (贪眠民宿) near the west gate of Dali Ancient Town at 10 PM. It was a simple, fresh-style room with a bathtub and a sea-view starry sky view, and breakfast was included.

Day 6: Biking Around Erhai Lake, My Most Regrettable Decision

North Gate Farmers' Market

It rained heavily in the morning. We had rented an electric scooter to circle Erhai Lake. First, we visited the North Gate Farmers' Market in Dali Ancient Town and bought some super-sweet candied plums (金西梅, a preserved fruit).

Circling Erhai Lake: The Nightmare Begins

Key Point: If you've been to Lugu Lake, you really don't need to visit Erhai Lake. The water in Erhai was grayish, with foam near the shore. You'd need a filter for any decent photo. It wasn't even a tenth as beautiful as Lugu Lake.

We took the S211 highway. Everything was lovely until we reached Xizhou Ancient Town — we passed strawberry fields and rapeseed flower seas, feeling fantastic. In Xizhou, we tried the famous Xizhou Baba (喜洲粑粑). I recommend Xiangshen Yangji (乡绅杨记). Both the savory and sweet versions were delicious, but I preferred the sweet one with brown sugar and rose.

A Hard Lesson Learned: If you choose to bike, I strongly advise turning back at Xizhou! Do not continue! From Xizhou to Shuanglang, we faced strong winds and rain the whole way. The wind felt like a knife cutting my face, and I couldn't open my eyes. By the time we reached Shuanglang, it was already past 3 PM, and we were still 5 hours of biking away from our guesthouse. We couldn't stop and had to keep going. Wase, Xiaoputuo... endless biking. We were both on the verge of breaking down.

We got back to the guesthouse at 8 PM, and I finally broke down sobbing on the back seat. Our eyes were red and swollen. We ordered takeout and eye drops. Remember: the loop around Erhai Lake is 170 kilometers. You must drive or hire a car! Biking is pure torture!

Dali Ancient Town

After recovering a bit by 10 PM, we went for a stroll in the ancient town. Dali Ancient Town is much smaller than Lijiang, and prices are higher. We went to Zhao Lei's Ge Mu Restaurant (格姆餐厅), but unfortunately, they only had drinks left, no food.

Day 7: Farewell to the Land of Rainbows

We slept in, then had lunch at Koufu Renjia Private Kitchen (口福人家私房菜). I recommend the Koufu Imperial Duck (口福霸王鸭). At 1:30 PM, we booked a transfer to Lijiang Sanyi Airport, officially ending our Yunnan trip.

Summary & Pitfall Avoidance Guide

Must-Visit Recommendations

• Lugu Lake: You must self-drive! Stay at least two nights to slowly soak in its beauty
• Mu Laoye Flower Cakes: A must-buy in Lijiang Ancient Town
• Qiji Zhijia Teppanyaki (Nisai Village): A delightful food surprise at Lugu Lake
• Wild Mushroom Steam Stone Pot Fish (Lugu Lake): Incredible value at 74 yuan

Pitfall Avoidance Reminders

• ❌ Biking around Erhai Lake: 170 km is no joke. Drive or hire a car.
• ❌ Overpriced snow mountain tours during peak season: Completely unnecessary in the off-season.
• ❌ Yunnan Lover's Beach: Crowded and inconsiderate tourists. Sichuan Lover's Beach is better.
• ❌ Erhai Lake: If you've seen Lugu Lake, don't bother. The difference is huge.

Practical Tips

• Choose an inn close to a main road. Dragging suitcases on cobblestones is exhausting.
• Buy fruit at Zhongyi Market — much cheaper than in the old town.
• Arrive two hours early for Lijiang Eternal Love to catch the free performances.
• Lugu Lake has large temperature differences between morning and evening. Bring a down jacket.

This journey had its bitter and sweet moments, its sadness and joy. The meaning of travel, perhaps, lies in these uncertainties and unknown destinations. Where to next?