Little Bean Sprout (3y+) @ Chiang Mai & Pai: Sunshine and Raindrops Slip Through Our Fingers, Counting the Moments of a Fairytale Time

Weibo / Xiaohongshu / Ctrip: Doumiao Mommy.

Destination: Chiang Mai, Pai Travel Dates: July 14, 2018 · 9 days Per Person Cost: Approximately 10,000 RMB Travel Party: Family of three, with a 3-year-old

Thailand, Here We Are Again

"Going to Thailand again?" "That's right, this time to Chiang Mai." "Then you must see the White Temple, the Black House..." "No, I'm going to Pai."

For my third trip to Thailand, I understood my friends' confusion. Honestly, even I hadn't expected to set foot on this land again so soon. But when I learned that Chiang Mai wasn't just about temples and old city walls—that Nimman Road had its artsy, bohemian charm—and when I discovered Pai, that fairytale town nestled in the mountains, I could no longer hold back. So here we came.

My first two trips to Thailand followed classic routes. The first was Phuket—a honeymoon for two. The second was Bangkok plus Pattaya—a grand family expedition with six adults and one toddler. Doumiao was still tiny then, and the planning wasn't very mature. But as her first trip ever, having the whole family together made it meaningful.

Two years later, Doumiao turned three. This time, it was just the three of us. Stepping out of the airport, the hot, humid air hit us, and friendly faces greeted us with "Sawadee ka." We naturally pressed our palms together in response... Everything felt so familiar, like coming home.

Itinerary Overview: Nine Days of Slow Travel, Going with the Flow

Day 1: Shanghai → Chiang Mai → Akyra Manor Hotel → Mango Tango → Coco Corner → Wat Umong → Wat Suan Dok → Hotel dinner Day 2: Chiang Mai University → Dom Cafe → Maya Shopping Center → Gallery Seescape → Fairytales → iBerry → Hot Chilli dinner → Sunday Night Market Day 3: Chiang Mai → Pai → Siam Dream Hotel → Strawberry Farm → WWII Bridge → Pai Treehouse → Fine Rice dinner → Pai Night Market Day 4: Tree Swing → Yellow House → Coffee in Love → Upside-Down House → Windmill Hotel → Pink House → Abandoned Bus → Container Hotel → Hotel dinner Day 5: Romance Farm → Elephant Camp → Wat Phra That Mae Yen → Iya Pai Resort → Hotel dinner Day 6: Pai → Chiang Mai → Anantara Resort Hotel → Dhara Dhevi Resort dinner Day 7: Playing at the hotel → Night Safari → Giraffe Restaurant dinner Day 8: Tha Phae Gate → Wat Chedi Luang → Dhara Dhevi Resort → No.39 Cafe → Hotel dinner Day 9: Frose Yogurt Cafe → Herb Basics → Chiang Mai → Shanghai

Day 1: Hello Chiang Mai—Temples with a Touch of Whimsy

First Steps on Nimman Road: Mangoes and a Rabbit Encounter

We took off at 10 a.m. After a four-and-a-half-hour flight, we landed in Chiang Mai at 1:30 p.m. Our driver was already waiting, and we checked into the Akyra Manor Hotel on Nimman Road—a trendy hotel with its iconic bathtub that's hard to forget.

As soon as our car turned into the alley, we spotted Mango Tango. A photo stop was a must. After settling in briefly, we happily headed over.

We ordered mango sticky rice, a sorbet-like dessert, and a drink. Online reviews were mixed, so we didn't have high expectations. But it was a pleasant surprise—especially the mango sticky rice, which was perfectly sweet and chewy. The place wasn't crowded, and since our little one couldn't sit still, we grabbed our drinks and sat outside for a bit.

Right across the street was the famous rabbit-shaped ice cream shop, Coco Corner. No contest—we ordered just one cone. Coconut flavor. It looked better than it tasted, but as long as the little one was happy, that was all that mattered.

Wat Umong: Serenity in the Tunnels

We hailed a songthaew (shared taxi) to Wat Umong. Chiang Mai has countless temples, most within the old city walls. But Wat Umong and Wat Suan Dok are just outside, near Nimman Road, with unique character worth a visit.

We deliberately picked a songthaew that looked brand new and even took a photo with it before getting off. The driver told us the car couldn't go in, so we'd have to walk. After trudging for over ten minutes, watching car after car pass us by, I felt a little bitter.

But the unexpected reward was the Buddha statues lining the path. Wat Umong is relatively off the beaten path, with few tourists. The grounds are shaded by ancient trees, giving it a rustic, peaceful feel. At the tunnel entrance, we had to take off our shoes. Inside, the passages branched out in all directions. People moved in hushed reverence, as if afraid to disturb the Buddha's peace. Emerging from the tunnel, we climbed the steps to find a towering chedi (stupa) standing solemn and majestic.

Wat Suan Dok: White Poetry Before Sunset

Leaving Wat Umong, we hailed another songthaew to Wat Suan Dok. This is the only white temple in Chiang Mai, housing the largest bronze Buddha statue in the country. Everyone says it's most beautiful at sunset. Unfortunately, the sky was overcast when we arrived, but that didn't diminish its beauty.

We got there around 6 p.m., and the temple was already closed. A row of bells at the entrance kept Doumiao entertained for a while. She happily sang nursery rhymes, and I joined her, dancing along. Just as we were about to leave, the sun peeked through the clouds. We hurried back to snap a few more photos. Against the sunset glow, the white temple shimmered brilliantly.

We decided to have dinner at the hotel. When my husband checked in, he noticed the hotel had an excellent Italian restaurant. Thinking how much easier it would be to eat at the hotel, we opted for it. For the rest of our stay, we set aside one night at each hotel to dine in, and every experience was wonderful.

The bread basket came with Thai milk tea. The pizza had an incredibly thick layer of cheese—I still crave it. The Parma ham was served with tri-colored cherry tomatoes. The pasta was just okay; Doumiao only had a few bites—she clearly preferred the pizza.

Day 2: Taking It Easy on Nimman Road—Ice Cream and Fruit Tea Time

Chiang Mai University: Ten Minutes at the Peaceful Lake

The hotel breakfast was a semi-buffet with à la carte options. The food was good, and the自助 (self-serve) station had bread you could help yourself to. After breakfast, we took a songthaew to Chiang Mai University. The advice was to visit the Peaceful Lake early, because photos taken around noon with the sun directly overhead would leave faces in shadow.

At the university gate, a security guard directed us to walk ahead. We strolled down a long, tree-lined avenue, and I felt a flicker of hope—maybe we wouldn't need to take the tram? Clearly, that wasn't the case. We reached the ticket booth and bought our tickets.

Along the way, there was a Chinese-language commentary. Chiang Mai University is the only national university in the city and one of the top institutions in northern Thailand. Finally, we arrived at the Peaceful Lake, with ten minutes allotted for photos. In reality, the time was flexible, but the older Chinese couples in our tram group all said it was boring and went back to the tram early. We ended up being the ones the driver had to urge to get back on.

The spot I thought would be highly coveted for photos was completely ignored. So we naturally monopolized it for a long time. The weather was slightly overcast—this was the rainy season in Chiang Mai, and we were getting a taste of it. A small swing randomly placed on campus fit the mood perfectly.

Dom Cafe: The Cat with a Chanel Bag

Nimman Road is packed with dessert shops, and today's remaining mission was to check them off. First, we went to Dom Cafe (formerly called Local Cafe), the one farthest from our hotel. Just look for the cat wearing a CHANEL bag.

Doumiao mimicked the cat's pose, looking adorable. At the intersection, there was also a diligent, chubby police uncle. We were melting from the heat, so we ordered a grapefruit fruit tea and a watermelon slushie. The watermelon slushie arrived with a smoky mist, but I'd recommend the grapefruit fruit tea more—one sip was incredibly refreshing, and the heat vanished.

We sat there leisurely for a whole lunch hour, and then our revitalized trio was ready to go.

Maya Shopping Center and Gallery Seescape

Dom Cafe was just a short walk from Maya Shopping Center. This time, Doumiao and I had only worn sandals, so we planned to buy jelly shoes. The mall felt just like one in China. We bought our shoes and left. I got two pairs of Melissa shoes for Doumiao and myself. After tax refund, they cost about 2,200 baht. You'll probably see them in later photos.

After drinking so many cold beverages, we wanted something more substantial. Near our hotel was a trendy restaurant called Gallery Seescape, known for its good brunch. We ordered two simple dishes, and the flavors were excellent. The butter bread was so good it felt sinful. The passion fruit tea was, as always, stunning.

Fairytales and iBerry: Girly Heart and Chocolate

The weather in Chiang Mai alternated between clouds and rain. Luckily, the rain wasn't heavy and didn't last long. I thought that's how the next few days would be... but I was wrong.

We wandered into an accessory shop—but that wasn't our target. Then we saw a rabbit, and we knew we'd arrived at our destination—a local accessory brand that uses animal motifs in its designs. I bought a bracelet and a pair of earrings.

Doumiao, who hadn't had her nap, was getting impatient. She couldn't wait for the "puppy ice cream" anymore. Right across from Fairytales was a famous petal-shaped ice cream shop. We quickly bought one to calm her down. Then we started looking for the big dog head—it had changed from rose pink to lake blue.

We ordered two scoops: lychee sorbet and chocolate. The lychee was just okay—sweet, nothing special. The chocolate was amazing—rich and smooth. Clearly, this shop was more than just a gimmick.

Since we were there, we decided to play along. My husband and I planned a shot with our legs crossed. When we looked at the result, Doumiao had lifted her leg too.

Sunday Night Market: A Guide to What to Avoid

We had dinner at Hot Chilli. Sunday meant it was also the Sunday Night Market, and Hot Chilli was right at the market entrance. Travel guides raved about how good it was. We went through a lot of trouble to find it, but—this was a trap. Avoid it!

First, the special drink. I thought it would be a refreshing young coconut, but it had a complex flavor with banana, kiwi, and other fruits. Doumiao and my husband took one sip and refused it. I forced myself to drink half. The appetizers I ordered for Doumiao—she only ate the shrimp crackers. They were too dry, and the filling had a slightly off smell. The fried rice grains were too hard for a child. We also ordered a vegetable dish, which was very mediocre.

The environment was even worse: such hot weather, no air conditioning, and we were sitting in piles of cotton-like material? Walking into the place was overwhelming.

After dinner, night had fallen, and we were swept along by the crowd. Taking a child to a night market is not a wise move. Our only goal was to find the exit. Even so, we ended up carrying her for nearly an hour. Good night.

Day 3: Pai, the Fairytale Town I'd Been Dreaming Of

Departure: The Test of 700 Curves

After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we chose different dishes than yesterday, and they were just as delicious and beautiful. There was an infinity pool on the top floor, and we finally got to see it. Why didn't I go in? The pain of traveling the world with your period—you know what I mean. Just dipping my feet in the water to enjoy it a little was enough.

At 11 a.m., we packed up. We had booked a private car to Pai for noon. This was the part I was most worried about—everyone says there are over 700 curves on the road to Pai. I'd bought motion sickness pills in advance and even asked a Japanese friend to bring children's motion sickness pills. We took them half an hour before departure. For the trip there, we had a private car and asked the driver to drive steadily. Three hours later, we arrived without any discomfort.

Siam Dream Hotel: The Gentleness of English Countryside

We checked into our second hotel, which became my favorite of the trip. It had an English countryside style, with every detail from the exterior to the interior perfectly coordinated. The service was attentive, and it gave us a strong sense of belonging. There were no key cards; instead, we got actual keys.

We took the hotel's shuttle to the walking street and found a car rental place. We told them our planned route, and they quoted 800 baht. GO! We set off immediately!

Strawberry Farm and WWII Bridge: The Golden Hour Light

First stop: Strawberry Farm. I wanted to see the WWII Bridge at sunset, and Strawberry Farm was very close to it. We hadn't eaten lunch because I was afraid of getting sick on the road, so we decided to try some drinks at the farm. They were sweet. Very sweet. We ordered a strawberry drink and a honey lemon.

I'm not usually into overly cute, sweet aesthetics, but I didn't expect this place to be such a photo paradise. It was worth the long journey to Pai—our first photo stop was already a success.

At the farm, we met a group of Chinese girls. Some of them were having so much fun taking photos that they suggested skipping the WWII Bridge—saying it was just a bridge with nothing to photograph. At first, I thought the same, but when we got there, I realized they were too young and too simple.

Our chubby female driver turned out to be a hidden photography master.

Pai Treehouse: Our Private Discovery

Our original plan was to visit the elephant camp near the WWII Bridge, but it was already closed. Seeing we had time, our driver took us to a nearby treehouse. Later, I searched through all the travel guides but couldn't find this spot. It became our exclusive discovery.

Our first day in Pai ended perfectly. But we would never see such soft, beautiful light again on this trip—for the next few days, it rained every evening, just varying from heavy to light.

Fine Rice and Pai Night Market

The driver dropped us off at Fine Rice and left. The walking street had scheduled hotel shuttles, so we could catch one back soon.

On our first day in Pai, of course, we had to check in at the famous sign. When we arrived at the restaurant, we saw the big-bearded owner, but when we finished eating and wanted a photo, he was gone. The restaurant had an air-conditioned section and a non-air-conditioned section. As Chinese people, we naturally chose the air-conditioned area.

We ordered a fried rice and a stir-fried vegetable dish. The flavors were average. But compared to last night's dinner, it was heavenly. To accommodate Doumiao, we didn't eat spicy food, which limited our Thai food options. I'd recommend trying the fried tilapia—the dipping sauce was slightly sour and spicy, satisfying for both adults and children. For dessert, we had mango sticky rice and coconut ice cream.

We didn't get sick on the way here... but on the way back, I threw up once before we finally got back to Chiang Mai.

Compared to Chiang Mai's night market, Pai's was much easier to navigate—fewer people and prettier items.

Day 4: A Day Trip Around Town—Girly Heart Meets Countryside Charm

The Big Tree Swing: Golden Hour in the Morning

Early in the morning, we got into our pre-booked hotel car and headed to Mari Pai Resort. The big tree swing is a Pai landmark. They say if you come late, there's a queue, and when the sun is high, photos of people tend to have faces in shadow. Sure enough, when we arrived at 7:30 a.m., two older women were already happily snapping away. Girls staying at the resort also kept peeking out from a distance. I realized that women who love taking photos are adorable, regardless of age.

We used a wide-angle lens for a few long shots, then switched to a portrait lens for close-ups. The morning light was pleasant—flexible enough for both types of shots. Consider this my recommendation for the best shooting time. Got it?

Don't think it's cool just because it's morning. Maybe because we were in the mountains, it was very humid and muggy. We were sweating buckets within minutes. Our hotel wasn't far from here—just a five-minute drive. Many girls choose to stay here for the photos, but the accommodation itself is average.

Yellow House: Every Corner of a Fairytale World

After a perfect shoot, we moved to the adjacent Yellow House. This romantic little house was built for the movie "Pai in Love" and has become a Pai landmark.

Approaching the house felt like stepping into a fairytale world. Even the milk crates were ridiculously cute. Every door, every wall, every staircase, every figurine—everywhere you looked was a photo opportunity.

Later, looking at our photos, I felt we were missing a half-body shot of me sitting on a bicycle with my daughter. I thought about going back after breakfast. But when our car passed by and I saw five or six girls plastered against one wall of the Yellow House, I gave up immediately. I also took the chance to brag—we had the whole place to ourselves when we shot.

Coffee in Love and Hotel Breakfast

We stopped by the adjacent Coffee in Love for a quick photo op. Cute signposts were everywhere.

After the morning's exertions, the three of us were starving. We went back to the hotel for breakfast. Siam Dream's breakfast was fully à la carte. We paid an extra fee for Doumiao, which allowed us to order six items—more than enough. The avocado eggs were good. When I saw congee (rice porridge) on the menu, I immediately ordered a bowl for Doumiao. Yogurt with fruit was for the little one. The coffee and pancakes were nice. The restaurant was decorated with many antique items, giving it a strong English countryside vibe.

Touring the Town: Upside-Down House, Windmill, Pink House, Abandoned Bus

We set off again. First stop: the Upside-Down House. Tourists were already gathering. We snapped a few photos under everyone's gaze and hurried away.

Second stop: the Windmill Hotel. I wanted to take some cute parent-child photos, but the sun was too harsh.

Third stop: the Pink House. A pink Jeep, wild and unrestrained, hit all my cute spots. Everything here was pink. There was a small tea room where you could order drinks, but the best spot was already occupied by three girls. I stood nearby holding my daughter for a full ten minutes, but they showed no sign of wrapping up. Then another group of girls flooded in. This old mother couldn't muster the courage to squeeze into the crowd, so I quietly left.

Fourth stop: the Abandoned Bus. I'd been impressed by it in other people's travelogues, but when I booked the car, the staff didn't know about it, and neither did the driver. I was about to give up. After we left the Pink House, the driver said he'd found out—it had been moved past the WWII Bridge, almost to the edge of Pai. Note this down! The Abandoned Bus has moved.

The Abandoned Bus, true to its name, was full of grasshoppers. The mosquitoes there were three times the size of normal ones. If you can't find it, don't bother. Special thanks to our mosquito repellent—when we got home and checked carefully, we hadn't been bitten at all.

Fifth stop: the Container Hotel. On the way back, I vaguely saw a row of colorful, teardrop-shaped rocking chairs. Having memorized the travel guides, I was sure this was the long-sought Container Hotel. It was no longer abandoned as previously described. Instead, a small shop had been built, turning it into a rest stop. We casually bought a chocolate ice cream, and it was unexpectedly delicious—completely on par with iBerry in Chiang Mai. Are all Thai people this good at making chocolate ice cream?

Rainy Night: Candlelight and Songs at Siam Dream

After several days of non-stop activity, we were exhausted. Doumiao fell asleep the moment we got back to the hotel and slept until evening. I couldn't bear to wake her, so I asked my husband to talk to the hotel and cancel our plan to watch the sunset at Wat Phra That Mae Yen.

Before dinner, we strolled around the hotel and were lucky to meet two new friends. A 20-month-old baby girl pointed at Doumiao from a distance and shouted, "Hello, baby!" Their dad took turns getting his son and daughter to jump into the water for us to watch. We were stunned. The contrast between their parenting style and our fully dressed Chinese baby, Doumiao, was striking.

We had dinner at the hotel. Siam Dream's restaurant had won awards, so there was no reason to go out looking for food. The waiter recommended tuna pasta—it wasn't on the menu, but they happened to have very fresh tuna that day.

After 7 p.m., the restaurant had live music. Outside, it was pouring rain. I was glad we'd canceled the Mae Yen plan. Candlelight, accompanied by singing and the sound of rain, added to the lazy atmosphere. This is what a vacation should be.

The restaurant was the same one, but at night, it looked completely different. Doumiao, fully recharged after her long nap, switched into show-off mode. Good night, beautiful rainy evening at Siam Dream.

Day 5: Kissing Little Lambs and Playing with Elephants—Family Fun Time

Romance Farm: Persistence in Rubber Boots

After breakfast, we had the same driver as yesterday. Today's schedule was all about the little one's happy hour. First stop: Romance Farm to feed the lambs.

Because it had rained heavily the night before, the farmer said the lambs wouldn't be let out today. If we wanted to feed them, we'd have to go to the sheep shed. I was a bit disappointed. Then the farmer insisted we put on rubber boots, or we wouldn't be allowed into the pasture. I hesitated—first because they were dirty, second because they were ugly. The farmer and the driver talked for a bit. The driver made a phone call, and the voice on the other end clearly told us in English: "You must wear rubber boots." I saw the worker's determination and decided to respect their rules.

There were also cows and horses in the pasture, but we headed straight for the sheep shed. This was Doumiao's first time getting so close to animals. I was initially worried she might be scared, but children seem to have a natural love for small animals—she fit right in without any awkwardness.

"Mommy, the lamb won't eat my grass. You feed it."

Your mom and dad are here just for the photos. You're the only one seriously feeding the sheep. The outdoor sheep shed was empty of sheep, which actually made for a nice set of fresh, simple photos. We were getting a bit dizzy from the sun, so we went to the café for a drink. The little food thief stole some sugar from the coffee. Cute decorations were everywhere. This place was no longer just a farm—it was a fairytale world.

Elephant Camp: No Riding, Just Feeding

Leaving Romance Farm, we went back to the hotel to pack our bags. Today, we were switching hotels, which was another highlight of the Pai trip. We ran into the father and son from yesterday again. The dad had taken his parenting to new heights. Before leaving, I couldn't resist dipping my feet in the pool—see our new shoes?

First, we stopped by the elephant camp. We had no plans to ride the elephants—that would be too cruel. Instead, we bought some food to feed them. With guidance from the driver and the mahout (elephant trainer), I successfully fed the first stalk of sugarcane. Faced with such a large animal, the little one was both curious and cautious.

Final Thoughts: Fairytale Time, Slipping Through Our Fingers

Nine days in Chiang Mai and Pai—sunshine and rain alternated, slipping through our fingers. From the artsy, bohemian vibe of Nimman Road to the fairytale countryside of Pai; from the solemn tranquility of the temples to the laughter at the farm—every moment was worth counting.

Traveling with a child means slowing down the pace and going with the flow. Don't feel the need to check off every attraction. Enjoying the scenery and the time spent together is the most precious thing.

Practical Tips: - For the trip to Pai, definitely bring motion sickness pills and take them half an hour before departure - Best time to photograph the Big Tree Swing: before 7:30 a.m., when the light is soft and there are fewer people - The Abandoned Bus has moved—it's now past the WWII Bridge, further out - Be cautious about taking children to night markets—they're crowded, and it's easy to get separated - Hotel restaurants often have pleasant surprises—consider setting aside one night to dine in

Fairytale time, slipping through our fingers. Sunshine, rain, laughter, songs—they've all become the gentlest chapters in our memory.

Weibo / Xiaohongshu / Ctrip: Doumiao Mommy.