Living the Good Life: A 6-Day Journey Through Kunming, Dali, Xizhou, Shuanglang, and Caicun — Complete Travel Guide with Stunning Photos

Some places, just by saying their name, make your heart soften. Erhai Lake is one of those places. I had imagined this scene countless times: sitting quietly on a lazy afternoon, staring at that azure lake, warm sunlight falling gently on my shoulders; raising my camera to capture the shimmering water, the cotton-candy clouds, the evening shadows stretching across an old wall — and in that moment, you are right beside me.

In November 2014, my husband (whom I affectionately call my "human tripod") and I finally embarked on this journey. Over six days, we wandered from Kunming to Dali, then to Xizhou, Shuanglang, and Caicun, stopping whenever the mood struck. We spent just over 5,000 RMB in total. This guide is both a record of our trip and, I hope, a practical reference for anyone else yearning to explore Yunnan.

Pre-Trip Preparation: Pack These for a Smoother Journey

Clothing and Outfits

November in Yunnan sees temperatures between 16-20°C (61-68°F), with Dali being slightly warmer than Kunming. I recommend going for a bohemian, artsy ethnic style — it fits the vibe of "Colorful Yunnan" perfectly. I always buy a few new outfits before each trip; Taobao is a treasure trove for this. Sweaters and jackets are your staples. Hats are great both for styling and sun protection — although the UV rays aren't terribly strong in November, I still brought sunscreen. But since my clothes covered most of my skin, a hat plus makeup was enough. Don't forget an umbrella — it works for both rain and sun.

Skincare and Medicine

Yunnan is so dry it catches you off guard. Face masks and lip balm are lifesavers — I used a sheet mask every single day just to feel normal. Bring stomach medicine and cold medicine as standard travel essentials, just in case.

Photography Gear

I brought a Canon 5D Mark II with a SIGMA 50mm f/1.4 prime lens. But how can you travel without a wide-angle lens? Being clever, I rented a 16-35mm F2.8 lens on Taobao for less than 200 RMB — incredible value. If you want to capture big landscapes, definitely try this approach.

Transportation Guide: How to Get from Kunming to Dali Hassle-Free

Getting Around Kunming

Kunming Changshui Airport has multiple airport bus routes, and Metro Lines 1, 2, and 6 are already in operation. Lines 1 and 2 run north-south and you can transfer at "Huancheng South Road Station." Line 6 runs east-west, connecting Airport Center Station with East Bus Station. If the airport bus isn't convenient, take the metro to East Bus Station and then transfer to a city bus.

Special note: Kunming Railway Station's metro entrance is hidden behind the station! Don't make the same mistake I did, thinking you can just walk out of the station and transfer. The correct route is: exit the train station, walk around to the back side, and you'll find the metro entrance. If you want to go from the train station to Green Lake Park (Cuihu Park), take bus No. 2 to "Baihui Market Station" and walk 200 meters. Regular buses cost 1 RMB, air-conditioned ones cost 2 RMB.

Getting Around Dali

Dali's transportation system is very well-developed, with buses connecting all major attractions.

• Dali Railway Station → Dali Old Town: Take bus No. 8 (2 RMB), get off at "Feng Hua Xue Yue Hotel" stop, which is the east gate of the old town. The ride takes about 40 minutes.
• Dali Old Town → Xizhou: You can take a minibus (Xiaguan-Shuanglang line, flag it down at the east gate, about 3 RMB), a medium-sized bus (departs from Cangshan Gate or East Gate, 7 RMB), or carpool (15 RMB per person). The ride takes 30-40 minutes.
• Xizhou → Shuanglang: Similarly, there are minibuses, medium buses (Dali Old Town-Shuanglang line, 10 RMB, departures every 30 minutes, last bus at 17:30), and carpools (12 RMB per person). The ride takes about 50 minutes.
• Shuanglang → Caicun: If it's too late for buses, you'll need to carpool. A 4-person carpool costs 25 RMB each, and the ride takes 1 hour 10 minutes.
• Caicun → Dali Airport: Charter a car for 100 RMB. A taxi by meter might cost 150-160 RMB, but taxis are rare near the old town.

Accommodation Recommendations: From Kunming to Dali, These Places Are Worth Staying At

Kunming: Xitang Music Inn (Not Recommended)

• Experience: The decor is artsy and photogenic, but the facilities are old and worn, and the landlord was unreliable. The room cost 180 RMB but they only charged 150 — however, only one light bulb worked, the balcony was on the first floor blocked by the front desk, and hot water was barely available. The only room with a TV had no signal. Rating: ★★☆☆☆

Dali Old Town: Qingkong Hostel (Recommended)

• Experience: Claimed to be the most "minimalist and fresh" hostel in Dali. The owner sold his apartment in Beijing to open this place in Dali — he's a great guy, called ahead to confirm our arrival time, and even texted directions. Lots of young people stay here, great for making travel buddies. The location is slightly off the beaten path but not hard to find. Rating: ★★★★☆

Xizhou: Mango Cottage Inn, Courtyard No. 2 (Highly Recommended)

• Experience: There are cats to pet! Clean and tidy, close to Erhai Lake, a typical Bai ethnic courtyard house conversion. Very quiet surroundings. Booked on Ctrip for 120 RMB per night — incredible value. The downside is inconvenient transportation; I recommend renting a car. Rating: ★★★★★

Caicun: Dali Lan No. 257 Seaview Holiday Inn (Average)

• Experience: The star-gazing room is romantic, the interior is nicely decorated, and it is indeed near Erhai Lake — but you can't walk directly to the water's edge. If you want to watch the sunrise, this is a dealbreaker. The location is also quite remote. Rating: ★★★☆☆

Tip: In cities (like Kunming), choose places with convenient transportation. By Erhai Lake, choose places that are truly waterfront — like Xizhou or Caicun — so you can experience the scenery up close.

Food Map: These Flavors I Still Crave

1. 凉鸡米线 (cold chicken rice noodles) — My absolute favorite, a perfect blend of sweet, sour, and spicy
2. Dali popsicle (I forgot the name, so I made it up) — Refreshing and palate-cleansing
3. 黄焖鸡烩饭 (braised chicken with rice) — Rich and deeply flavorful
4. 桥香园过桥米线 (Qiaoxiangyuan Crossing-the-Bridge Rice Noodles) + 小锅米线 (small-pot rice noodles) — Must-eats in Kunming
5. 汽锅鸡 (steam pot chicken) — Tender meat in a flavorful broth
6. 大理印象酸奶 (Dali Impression yogurt), 风花雪月啤酒 (Wind Flower Snow Moon beer), 煮饵丝 (boiled Ersi rice noodles), 砂锅饵丝 (clay pot Ersi rice noodles) — Local specialties

Trip Diary: How We Spent Our 6 Days

DAY 1: First Impressions of Kunming

We set off at 4:30 AM. I had booked a driver through Didi Chuxing, and he arrived right on time at our apartment gate. We caught the 5:00 AM bus, reached the airport by 6:30, but the plane didn't take off until 9:00 AM due to queueing. After transferring via airport express bus, we finally arrived at our accommodation by noon.

We dropped our bags and grabbed a random meal at a nearby restaurant. To our surprise, the food was absolutely amazing — Kunming instantly won us over. In the afternoon, we planned to visit the Yunnan Railway Museum, but got lost in the metro station. It's actually very simple: take Line 2 to "North Railway Station" and get off.

The museum ticket costs 10 RMB, and it's open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM. Inside, there are real trains on display, from steam locomotives to high-speed rail. Unfortunately, many of the carriages are no longer open to enter. What touched me most were the elderly local couples — hunched over, holding hands, lingering in front of the train cars for a long time, as if having a silent conversation with their youth.

The meter-gauge railway next to the museum is still in operation. Tickets cost 2 RMB, and the conductor writes them out by hand — wonderfully retro. We took a ride. The setting sun streamed through the trees into the carriage, light and shadow dancing together, so beautiful it took your breath away.

In the evening, we went to Fuzhao Lou (Jinjiang branch) and ordered cold rice noodles and steam pot chicken — three dishes for just over 100 RMB. The cold noodles were rich and slightly sweet, which I loved; the steam pot chicken had a great broth, but the meat was a bit tough. After dinner, we made a quick stop at Golden Horse and Jade Rooster Square (Jinma Biji Fang) for photos. Kunming's night was so cold that all we wanted was to crawl back under the covers.

DAY 2: Feeding Seagulls at Green Lake, Chasing Squirrels at Yunnan University

For breakfast, we went to Qiaoxiangyuan (Baihui branch) and ordered sour soup beef brisket rice noodles and small-pot rice noodles. Sour and spicy, absolutely addictive. Beef brisket and pork belly are my eternal loves. For an extra 10 RMB, you can get a braised pork rib — served hot and plated nicely, it tastes great, though it gets tough when cold.

After breakfast, we strolled to Green Lake Park (Cuihu Park). November is the season when black-headed gulls migrate south for the winter. Thousands of them fly down from the north and circle above the lake. Buy a bag of bird feed (10 RMB for 5 small packets), toss it into the air, and the gulls descend like a white whirlwind. They're incredibly friendly — locals treat them like friends, and the government prohibits catching or scaring them. Place some feed on the railing, and they'll fly right over to eat. Perfect for photos.

Next, we visited the Yunnan Military Academy (free admission). This Western-style building produced generals like Zhu De and Ye Jianying. Walking on the gravel of the training ground, you could almost hear the shouts of drills from a century ago. Coming out, we walked along Green Lake West Road to Wenlin Street — the gathering place for Kunming's artsy youth, lined with cafes and bookstores. We found a shop and sat down for tea. My human tripod actually picked up a copy of Three Gates and started reading seriously — I didn't know he was a Han Han fan.

Following Wenlin Street downhill, we arrived at Yunnan University. The Huize Building is a French-style structure built in the 1920s, with small flower pots on the windowsills, filling the air with fragrance. Yunnan University's ginkgo avenue was breathtaking — fallen leaves carpeted the path, students walked by with books in hand, like a scene from a movie. Even more surprising: we spotted squirrels! They were completely unafraid of people. My human tripod managed to snap a few shots while a student was feeding them — the results were fantastic.

Exiting Yunnan University's west gate, we walked along 121 Street to Yunnan Normal University, which sits on the site of the National Southwestern Associated University. During the War of Resistance against Japan, Peking University, Tsinghua University, and Nankai University moved south together and established this institution, which became China's highest seat of learning at the time. The old classrooms and the memorial to Mr. Wen Yiduo filled us with profound respect.

DAYS 3-6: Dali, Xizhou, Shuanglang, Caicun

(Note: The original article does not elaborate on the remaining itinerary in detail, but based on the guide section, here is a summary:)

From Kunming, we took the train to Dali and checked into Qingkong Hostel, soaking in Dali's slow-paced lifestyle. At Xizhou, Mango Cottage had cats and the lake. At Shuanglang, Erhai Lake was impossibly beautiful. At Caicun, the star-gazing room was pure romance. By carpooling, chartering cars, and walking, we explored every corner of Erhai Lake in the freest way possible, capturing it all in our cameras and our hearts.

Final Thoughts: The Meaning of Travel

Six days — not long, not short. But long enough to fall in love with Yunnan.

Kunming has its lively, down-to-earth energy. Dali has its unhurried, timeless rhythm. The seagulls at Green Lake, the squirrels at Yunnan University, the sunset on the meter-gauge railway, the shimmering surface of Erhai Lake — these images fit together like puzzle pieces, forming my complete vision of Yunnan.

What moved me most were those elderly couples at the railway museum, holding hands, hunched over, lingering in front of the train cars. I will never know what stories they shared with those trains. But in that moment, I saw the weight of time.

Isn't that what travel is all about — encountering these moments of beauty?

If you're thinking of going to Yunnan, don't hesitate. Take this guide, pack your good mood, and just go.

Questions? Find me on Weibo:
Photography: @兔纸不会喵 (Rabbit Who Doesn't Meow)
Graphic Design: @魅力四射平面设计 (Charismatic Graphic Design)
(Photos featuring me were taken by my husband, aka Human Tripod)

Key Takeaways: - November in Yunnan: 16-20°C (61-68°F). Pack sweaters and jackets; don't skip sunscreen. - Kunming's metro entrance is hidden behind the train station — don't waste time looking in the wrong place. - Dali's transportation is convenient; carpooling is the most flexible option. - Recommended accommodation: Mango Cottage Inn in Xizhou, Qingkong Hostel in Dali Old Town. - Must-try foods: cold chicken rice noodles, Qiaoxiangyuan Crossing-the-Bridge Rice Noodles, steam pot chicken. - Feeding seagulls at Green Lake and spotting squirrels at Yunnan University are Kunming's most healing experiences.