Memories of Yunnan: Finding Another Life at the Edge of Mountains and Clouds

Sometimes, travel isn't about reaching a distant destination—it's about finding the version of yourself that everyday life has worn away.

In the autumn of 2013, I set off on a journey through Yunnan with a group of friends. We skipped Lijiang, Dali, Shangri-La, and Xishuangbanna. Instead, we chose a less traveled route—Puzhehei, Bamei, Babao, Jianshui, and Chengjiang. Ten days, seven people, one car. We ate, we photographed, we laughed—every step of the way.

This isn't just a travelogue. It's a memo about slowing down.

Before We Left, a Few Honest Words

Why These Places?

A lot of people asked me: why not take the standard route for your first trip to Yunnan? To be honest, I had a flicker of disappointment myself. But when you actually stand on that land, gazing at the endless mountains under a blue sky, feeling the wind carrying the scent of earth—you understand. Some places don't need fame. They just need you to walk into them.

Pre-Trip Checklist

Time: September 26 – October 5, 2013
People: 7
Mode: Full self-driving
Average cost per person: Approximately 4,000 RMB (including flights and 10 days of food and lodging)

Weather Reminder: Yunnan has big temperature swings between day and night. You can wear short sleeves at noon, but you'll need a thicker jacket in the evening. My advice: wear something light underneath, layer a jacket on top, and adjust as needed.

Clothing Advice: I packed an entire suitcase of clothes—almost one outfit per day. Honestly, if you're going somewhere like Bamei, don't follow my example. That road will make you want to throw your suitcase away. Lightweight is the way to go.

Toiletries: Guesthouses don't provide toothbrushes, toothpaste, body wash, or slippers. Bring your own. A portable hairdryer will do.

Skincare Essentials: The plateau is dry. Bring moisturizer and body lotion. Funny thing—my BB cream started oozing out on its own as soon as we hit the high altitude, as if the air pressure was squeezing it out.

Photography Gear: Nikon D700, 35mm as the main lens, 85mm and 17-35mm as backups. Also brought two Nintendo 3DS consoles to kill time on the road.

Food Warning: Yunnan's stir-fried potatoes are the best I've ever had—creamy texture, incredible aroma. And then there are the fried insects. Try them once, and you'll never forget them.

Day One: Kunming, the Ritual of Departure

Taking off from Hongqiao Airport, the sun was shining. I put on those "battle shoes" of mine again—they've been with me through so many places that they've become a symbol of my travels.

The plane cut through the clouds. Outside the window, the clouds were thick and soft, like you could step right onto them. Every time I fly, I take a photo of the wing and the clouds. It's my personal departure ritual.

Day Two: Chengzi Ancient Village, the Kingdom of Corn

The Winding Mountain Road

Setting out from Kunming, the road twisted and turned. Looking at the map, the mountain route curved back and forth like a labyrinth—just glancing at it made me dizzy. But when you actually drive into this landscape, you realize that every curve is a painting.

Afternoon in Chengzi Ancient Village

At noon, we stopped for lunch at a farmer's house. A few elderly men sat by the courtyard gate. When we came out after eating, they were still there—only now, one of them held a water pipe.

Corn was everywhere in the village. Golden ears of corn hung under every eave, glistening in the sunlight. I couldn't resist putting on a straw hat and pretending to be a local farmer.

The thing that surprised me most? Those pumpkins. They were heavy! When I picked one up, I nearly threw my back out.

Lunch Bill: Rice wine 20 RMB, cured pork 50 RMB, chicken soup 50 RMB. Total for six people: 200 RMB. The taste of those farm eggs—I still remember it.

Day Three: Puzhehei, Lotus Flowers and Lazy Hours

Quick Facts

Puzhehei, in the Yi language, means "a lake full of fish and shrimp." I heard that if you accidentally sat down in the water here, you'd end up with three fish under your bottom. Exaggerated, sure, but it gives you an idea of how abundant the fish and shrimp are.

We arrived a bit late in the season—the lotus flowers had already faded. But that vast expanse of lotus leaves, so green it made your heart ache... Seeing a view like that every day might cure half your nearsightedness.

Boat Ride

We bought our tickets and boarded a small boat. The lake water was crystal clear, with water plants swaying gently at the bottom. Ours was the only boat on the entire river—a rare moment of peace.

Midway through, a villager paddled over in a small boat selling barbecue. Fish, snail meat, lamb, shrimp, plus a can of beer—170 RMB total. A bit pricey, but eating barbecue on the lake had a charm all its own.

Exploring the Torch Cave

We entered the cave at 11:31 AM and came out at 12:24 PM. The water inside reflected the stalactites, like looking into another world. When we emerged, we took a horse-drawn carriage back—3 to 5 RMB per person.

Food Recommendation: Yuxiangge Restaurant

Bill: Large river snails 30 RMB, lotus leaf omelet 20 RMB, stir-fried lotus root with pickled vegetables 15 RMB, spicy yellow catfish 40 RMB, cold mint salad 10 RMB, sour-spicy tilapia 30 RMB, bitter greens 15 RMB, fried small fish and shrimp 35 RMB, stir-fried eggplant 15 RMB, green pepper and potato shreds 15 RMB, two bottles of liquor 12 RMB. Total: 256 RMB.

Every single dish was so good it made you want to cry.

Accommodation: Bengu Jiayuan

A guesthouse with old-world charm. Our bed looked like a bridal sedan chair—bright red, incredibly festive. The second floor had a small courtyard where sunlight streamed in, making everyone feel lazy and content.

Day Four: Bamei, the Real Peach Blossom Spring

Quick Facts

"At the end of the forest was a spring, and beyond it, a mountain. The mountain had a small opening, faintly lit, so he abandoned his boat and entered." Tao Yuanming's Peach Blossom Spring found its real-world counterpart in Bamei.

To enter Bamei, you first take a horse-drawn carriage, then board a small boat into the cave. Inside, it's pitch black—only the boatman's headlamp lights the way. You hear the sound of flowing water, feel the breeze on your face. In that moment, it really feels like you've entered a time tunnel.

The Suitcase Nightmare

I have to be honest: that road into Bamei was the moment I most wanted to die on this trip. Dragging a big suitcase over that rough, uneven path was heartbreaking. And with the water crossings and the carriage ride, I felt like throwing the thing away.

Thankfully, the guesthouse owner came down to meet us and carried our suitcases up. I'm still grateful.

Guesthouse Owner's Phone: 13887512040, Mr. Li

Night in Bamei

That evening, we climbed onto the rooftop to look at the stars. It was the first time I'd seen so many stars—and the Milky Way. Craning my neck, I felt like my cervical spine problems were cured.

That giant banyan tree is Bamei's landmark. Unfortunately, on the way back after taking photos, Yidao-jun slipped and broke his wide-angle lens. It hurt just to watch.

Final Thoughts: The Meaning of Travel

Over ten days, we ate countless amazing meals, took countless photos, and walked countless miles. But the most precious moments were the ones no camera could capture—

Doing nothing under the Puzhehei sun, just staring into space. Lying beneath the Bamei sky, counting stars. Laughing like a child in the corn piles of Chengzi Ancient Village.

Those moments—that's what travel is really about.

If you ever go to Yunnan, try this off-the-beaten-path route. You'll see landscapes you've never imagined, taste food you've never tried, and meet people you'll never forget.

Most importantly, you'll meet a version of yourself you never knew existed.

Appendix: Practical Information

• Puzhehei: Don't buy the combo ticket. Pay separately for the boat ride, Torch Cave, Moon Cave, and Guanyin Cave—it works out cheaper.
• Bamei: Pack light. Guesthouses don't provide toiletries. Bring mosquito repellent.
• Babao: To be continued.
• Jianshui: To be continued.
• Chengjiang: To be continued.

One last thing: If you have a moment, would you smile at the camera?