One Person, Seven Days, Three Cities: My Complete Yunnan Solo Travel Guide (With Detailed Transport & Pitfall Tips)

Before Departure

"Getting out and about opens up your heart." That's the deepest insight I gained after my Yunnan trip.

In August 2018, I used my annual leave to set foot in Yunnan alone. Over seven days, I traveled from Dali to Lijiang, then on to Lugu Lake, stopping along the way to capture every scene with my phone. This isn't a literary travelogue—it's a straightforward "expense log" filled with the pitfalls I fell into, the money I spent, and the lessons I learned. I hope it gives you some practical reference if you're planning a trip to Yunnan.

Disclaimer: The hotels, restaurants, and travel service providers mentioned in this article have no financial relationship with me. All reviews are based on real experiences.

Pre-Trip Preparation: A Table to Plan Your Itinerary

Total cost per person: Approximately 4,000 RMB (including flights, accommodation, tickets, meals, and transport)

D1: From Beijing to Kunming, Then to Dali — Exhausting but Worth It

Arriving in Kunming Late at Night

My flight from Beijing took off at 7:30 PM on Friday and landed in Kunming at 11:30 PM. The airport bus line 2 runs until 3 AM, and it dropped me off directly at a 7 Days Inn near the railway station.

Practical Info: - Airport Bus Line 2: Goes to Kunming Railway Station, last bus at 3 AM - Accommodation near Kunming Railway Station: 7 Days Inn, 189.5 RMB/night - Hotel phone number (the one on Mafengwo was wrong): 0871-68120866

The room was a bit dated, but clean, and the towels were individually wrapped. I only needed a few hours of sleep anyway, so I wasn't picky.

High-Speed Rail to Dali, First Impression of the Ancient Town

The next morning, I took the high-speed rail from Kunming to Dali. There are many trains running between Kunming and Dali every day, making it very convenient.

Dali Railway Station is in Xiaguan (the new city), while the tourist area is in the ancient town. After exiting the station, take bus No. 8 to get to the ancient town.

Accommodation Recommendation: Bieyuan · Erhai Gate No.1 - Location: Right next to Erhai Gate, but tucked away in an alley—quiet despite being in a bustling area - Price: 3 nights, specific price depends on room type - Review: The owner and front desk staff were very friendly, and the courtyard had a great atmosphere

First Meal Was a Pleasant Surprise

For lunch, I went to "Yunnan Braised Chicken Rice Noodles" (Yunnan Luwei Tuji Mixian), located diagonally across from the Feng Huaxue Yue Hotel. It had high ratings on Dianping (China's Yelp). The taste was excellent, especially the chicken leg, which was flavorful all the way to the bone.

The Pain of Eating Alone: The streets were full of wild mushroom hot pot and stone pot fish restaurants, but all of them had set menus for two people. I could only drool as I walked by.

Afternoon Stroll on Renmin Road

Dali Ancient Town is quite commercialized. Most shops sell flower cakes, snacks, and the like. However, there were a few bars with live music that had a decent vibe.

The Surprise at Dali University

A friend strongly recommended visiting the basketball court at Dali University (formerly Dali College), saying you could get a panoramic view of the ancient town and Erhai Lake from there. The map showed it was only a little over 2 kilometers away, so I decided to walk.

Lesson Learned: Dali is a mountain city, and the road to the university was all uphill! It took me ages to get there, but once I entered the campus, I was blown away by the view. Building a university in a place like this—how are students supposed to focus on their studies?

The basketball court was easy to find, and the view was indeed stunning. Unfortunately, my photography skills weren't good enough to capture that sense of awe.

D2: Erhai Lake "4+2" Circumnavigation — The Best Option for Solo Travelers

Why Choose "4+2"?

There are several ways to circle Erhai Lake: - Private car charter: 300 RMB/day, not cost-effective for one person - Bicycle: Too tiring, and since I was staying at the same hotel for 3 nights, I couldn't make it back the same day - "4+2" Cycling Tour: Minivan + bicycle, small group of 2-6 people, 288 RMB/day

I chose the third option because: 1. It's suitable for solo travelers (someone can help take photos) 2. The price is reasonable 3. People who sign up online are likely to be decent company

Actual Experience: 85 out of 100

Pros: - The guide was a local and very enthusiastic - Although the group consisted of a mother-son duo and a family of three, everyone had a great time - The beauty of Erhai Lake speaks for itself—just look at the photos

Cons: - One scenic spot was skipped (Xiaguan Xiahewan Wetland Park) because the group members needed to catch a train - As the only solo traveler, I felt a bit awkward, but that's nitpicking

Erhai Lake Photos (Use Your Imagination)

D3: Cangshan Mountain Day Trip — Tired but Happy

A Tough Choice

I wasn't initially interested in mountains, but a friend recommended Jizhao Nunnery, and two other friends also pushed me to go, so I finally decided to visit Cangshan.

Cangshan has three cable cars: | Cable Car | Features | Price | |-----------|----------|-------| | Ximatan Cable Car (Main Cable Car) | Longest, goes to the summit at Ximatan | Most expensive | | Gantong Cable Car | Goes to Qingbi Stream, can walk the Jade Belt Road | Moderate | | Zhonghe Cable Car | Goes to Zhonghe Temple, suitable for Buddhists | Cheapest |

I bought the Ximatan Cable Car combo ticket for 320 RMB, which included round-trip cable car + Cangshan Geopark + Tianlong Babu Film Studio + scenic area shuttle bus.

Going Up: Ximatan

I started riding the cable car around 10 AM, going directly to Ximatan Station. After exiting, I had to climb a few hundred steps to see Ximatan itself. The observation deck is at an altitude of 3,966 meters.

Important Reminder: Many people experience altitude sickness here. Make sure to walk slowly.

I had a boiled corn on the cob (10 RMB) and an egg (5 RMB) on the mountain—the prices were reasonable.

Seven Dragon Maiden Pools: Exhausted to the Point of Questioning Life

I took the return cable car to the Seven Dragon Maiden Pools (Qilongnü Chi) station. There are seven connected pools here, and you need to climb stairs to see each one. It was really tiring.

Hiking the Jade Belt Road

After asking the staff for advice, I decided to walk the 4.5-kilometer Jade Belt Road from the Seven Dragon Maiden Pools to the Gantong Cable Car station, then take the cable car down. The cable car ticket was universal, so no extra charge.

The Jade Belt Road was indeed flat, but walking 4.5 kilometers was still physically demanding.

Jizhao Nunnery: Succulents and Vegetarian Meals

From the exit of the Gantong Cable Car, I took a zigzagging path uphill. A driver trying to pick up passengers said, "Jizhao Nunnery is still halfway up the mountain," so I paid 20 RMB for a ride. The walk wasn't actually that long, but the uphill climb was tiring.

Two Highlights of Jizhao Nunnery: 1. Succulents: The entire courtyard was filled with them, and lots of people were taking photos 2. Vegetarian Meal: 20 RMB per serving. Lunch starts at 11:30 AM, dinner at 5:30 PM. No leftovers allowed.

The meal consisted of: steamed rice + stir-fried zucchini strips + stir-fried carrot slices + stir-fried Chinese broccoli + stir-fried potato slices + steamed pumpkin + crispy fried noodles + spicy cucumber. It tasted good, and out of respect, I didn't take photos.

Little Incident: The nunnery encourages visitors to wash their own dishes, but besides me, none of the other tourists did.

D4: Lijiang Ancient Town — Disappointment with a Silver Lining

Why Come to Lijiang?

You have to pass through Lijiang to get to Lugu Lake, so I could only spend one day here.

In the morning, I carpooled from Dali to the railway station, then took a train to Lijiang (2 hours, 34 RMB). After exiting the station, I took bus No. 4 to the ancient town.

Complaint: The stone-paved roads in the ancient town are very unfriendly to suitcases with wheels.

Lijiang Ancient Town: Overly Commercialized

Compared to Dali, Lijiang's architecture is more distinctive, but it's also more commercialized. The streets are full of shops, and half the restaurants have someone playing guitar and singing. It truly is "day and night with music."

Dining Pitfall: At the first restaurant, I waited half an hour without getting my rice noodles. At the second, the beef was as hard as a rock.

Shuhe Ancient Town: An Unexpected Comfort

Disappointed with Lijiang, I decided to visit Shuhe Ancient Town, 7 kilometers away. I took bus No. 11 to the Shuhe intersection, then walked nearly 2 kilometers.

Ticket Trap: Only one entrance charges an admission fee (40 RMB); the other entrances don't. I almost got scammed, but then I just walked in when no one was looking.

Shuhe Ancient Town is like a "mini Lijiang," also fairly commercialized, but I found a hidden gem on Dianping—Chihuo Private Kitchen (Chihuo Sifang Cai).

This Restaurant Saved My Day: - Location: Far from the main street, very quiet - Service: The owner and staff were very nice, and they didn't treat me poorly just because I was alone - Recommendations: Secret Recipe Rice Noodles (15 RMB, limited to 20 servings), Stir-fried Cabbage (18 RMB)

This meal significantly improved my impression of Lijiang.

D5: Lugu Lake — First Impression Fell Short

Transport: 130 RMB Round-Trip Shuttle

I booked a tourist shuttle through my innkeeper for 130 RMB round-trip, valid for one month. It departed from the north gate parking lot of Lijiang Ancient Town between 7-8 AM.

Travel Time: 4.5 hours under good conditions, but the road was rough—long stretches of winding mountain roads and U-shaped curves, with occasional falling rocks visible.

Why So Cheap? The driver, Uncle Ami (a local Mosuo person), explained: After entering the scenic area, they offer a "half-day tour" service (lake circumnavigation + stone pot fish dinner + bonfire party) for 150 RMB per person, voluntary sign-up.

I signed up. Here's my experience: - Lake Circumnavigation: Only covered half the lake, saw the Lige Observation Deck and the Worship Platform - Stone Pot Fish: A grass carp weighing about 5-6 jin (2.5-3 kg), served with 4-5 types of boiled vegetables. It tasted good. - Bonfire Party: I wasn't very interested, so I just sat there eating sunflower seeds for an hour.

Conclusion: 150 RMB wasn't a great deal, but it wasn't a rip-off either.

Accommodation: Jinshe Boutique Inn

Located in Lige, two nights cost 778 RMB. It was a star-viewing room with a large bed, advertised as offering views of the night sky.

Actual Experience: The bathroom fixtures were old, the faucet was loose, the skylight was dirty, and the star-viewing experience was poor. A girl on the same shuttle who was staying in Daluoshui also said her accommodation fell short of expectations. Maybe this is just the general standard of lodging around Lugu Lake.

Weather: Overcast

The weather was bad when I arrived, and many people were disappointed. I was also worried that the next day would be the same.

D6: Cycling Lugu Lake — The Most Beautiful Scenery at Dawn

A Sunny Surprise

At 6:30 AM the next day, I pulled back the curtains—sunshine! I quickly got dressed, rented a mountain bike from a shop in Lige (30 RMB), had breakfast, and started cycling at 7:50 AM.

Cycling Difficulty: Harder Than Erhai Lake

• Altitude: Around 2,600 meters
• Road Conditions: Lots of ups and downs, only two lanes, had to jostle for space with motor vehicles
• Advice: Push the bike uphill, brake downhill, and always stay alert

My Lesson Learned: The bike I rented had a broken gear shifter, which I didn't notice at first. If you don't know how to shift gears properly, cycling can be a painful experience.

The Most Beautiful Scenery

I cycled clockwise from Lige. The morning light was best for photos, and I captured many great shots. The Yunnan side of Lugu Lake has more scenic spots, while the Sichuan side has gentler slopes but less impressive views.

I returned to Lige at 5 PM and collapsed straight onto the bed.

Important Reminder: Be sure to apply sunscreen when cycling!

D7: All Day on the Road

Return Route

Lugu Lake → Lijiang (shuttle bus, arrived at 1:30 PM) → Dali (high-speed rail, 3:25 PM) → Kunming (high-speed rail, 5:25 PM) → Home

Handy Tip: Tickets booked in advance can be changed. I originally had a ticket for 5:25 PM, but I arrived at Lijiang Station at 1:30 PM, changed it to 3:25 PM, and it went smoothly.

Kunming Accommodation: Yihua International Business Hotel

168 RMB/night for a single business room. The condition of the room exceeded my expectations. Apart from having no ceiling light and a slightly slow internet connection, there was nothing to complain about.

Conclusion: Yunnan, One Visit Is Nowhere Near Enough

I wasn't well-prepared for this trip. I basically picked the cheapest hotel among the top 5 rated ones. My itinerary was also quite relaxed. If I were more familiar with the transport, I could have squeezed in one or two more attractions.

But isn't the purpose of coming to Yunnan to relax and slow down?

Advice for Future Travelers: 1. Solo Travel: Join small group tours to solve the problems of eating alone and taking photos 2. Transport: Check airport bus, public bus, and high-speed rail schedules in advance 3. Accommodation: Read reviews carefully; don't just look at the promotional photos 4. Weather: Yunnan's weather is changeable; be mentally prepared 5. Sunscreen: The UV rays are strong on the plateau; be sure to protect your skin

Equipment: Shot on iPhone SE, edited with VSCO, a few photos used an external wide-angle lens.

Finally, let me sum up this trip in one sentence:

"Getting out and about opens up your heart. Coming to Yunnan slows down your soul."

I hope this unliterary "expense log" can provide some practical help to those of you who want to visit Yunnan. If you found it useful, feel free to bookmark it—just to satisfy the author's vanity : )