Returning to Lugu Lake: Exploring the Romantic Hidden Gem of "Dear Inn" Amid Autumn Colors

Four visits in four years—my connection with Lugu Lake feels like an unfinished poem. Every time I set foot on this land, new surprises await. In the late autumn of 2017, I packed my bags once again, departing from Lijiang and driving toward this place that had captured my heart. This time, I wasn't just searching for the colors of autumn; I was also on a quest to find the "Dear Inn" (Qīn'ài de Kèzhàn) that had captured the imagination of so many.

Where It All Began: A Spontaneous Autumn Date in Western Yunnan

Some journeys are destined to wait for the right moment. Years ago, while studying in a graduate school preparation classroom, I saw a friend's photos of Lugu Lake in autumn. In that instant, the golden sea of reeds and the sapphire-blue water left an indelible mark on my soul. From then on, "go see autumn at Lugu Lake" became the most prominent wish on my travel bucket list.

In October 2017, my friend @Air Belle and I had just finished our trip to Yading Nature Reserve in Daocheng when a new plan emerged: "Let's go find autumn in western Yunnan this November!" And so, this long-brewing journey finally came together.

Joining us was Feng Ge (Brother Feng), the owner of Tinghua Hall (Tīnghuā Táng), a Lijiang "local" who loves gardening and served as our dedicated driver for the trip. Though Feng Ge refused to appear in any photos, his professionalism and dedication moved us deeply.

Departing from Lijiang: Morning Light in the Ancient Town and Long-Missed Slow Living

November 7th, clear skies as far as the eye could see. The night before, I had flown from Chengdu to Lijiang. Feng Ge picked me up at the airport, we had dinner near the south gate of the ancient town, and then returned to the guesthouse to recharge. I was filled with anticipation for the upcoming trip to Lugu Lake.

Feng Ge said he had things to do in the morning and wouldn't leave until after lunch. So Belle and I decided to use the time to take photos in the ancient town. Embarrassingly, even though I'd been to Lijiang countless times, I barely had any decent photos of the old city.

In the early morning, I pushed open the door of my room. Sunlight spilled across the windowsill, warm and inviting. As someone who lives most of the year in Chengdu—a city known for its overcast skies—this moment of happiness was indescribable. After breakfast at Tinghua Hall, we stepped out for a leisurely stroll. Walking along Qiyi Street to Sifang Square (Square Street), we saw Naxi people dancing in a circle. It wasn't my first time witnessing this, but it was the first time I picked up my camera to capture it.

Before I knew it, we reached Bar Street. In daytime, it shed the chaos of the night, with small bridges and flowing streams looking especially gentle in the sunlight. The filming location of the hit TV series "One Meter Sunshine" (Yī Mǐ Yángguāng) was nearby—a show that put Lijiang on the map across China, yet I had somehow missed it all these years. At the Big Waterwheel, the famous wind chimes were still surrounded by crowds. I heard the entire town had been in full bloom a few days earlier, but the flowers had just been cleared away. Belle comforted me: "Don't worry, we'll find something even better."

The Sea of Reeds: Twenty Minutes of Light and Autumn's Regret

After lunch, we officially set off for Lugu Lake. Though it was my fourth visit, I had always come from the Sichuan side before; this was my first time traveling from Lijiang. The sun in Yunnan is always fierce. In the afternoon, Belle and I dozed off in the car, leaving Feng Ge to drive alone—a tough job.

About three and a half hours later, we arrived at the Yunnan side of Lugu Lake. After buying tickets, Feng Ge asked where to go. I had no clue. So we drove toward the light, and before we knew it, we had reached the Sea of Reeds (Cǎohǎi) on the Sichuan side.

In autumn, the Sea of Reeds was a sea of golden reeds, with sparkling ripples on the water. We had only planned to shoot from the shore for a while, but a Mosuo boatman came over and offered us a boat ride. Before I could react, Feng Ge had already paid—simple and direct. It was my fourth time at the Sea of Reeds and my second time on a boat, but the shooting conditions were far from ideal—the boat kept moving, and the light kept changing. I was grateful just to capture one or two satisfying shots.

Later, Belle couldn't hold back and asked the boatman to pause for photos. He agreed. But then I suddenly regretted it—the stretch of water we had just passed was the most beautiful part, and now I could only watch the light slip away moment by moment. As the sun was about to set, we scrambled to shoot in the last rays, but I always felt like we were twenty minutes too late. The moment the sun dipped below the horizon, my heart was crying.

We left the Sea of Reeds as darkness fell. We took a few shots of the sunset glow at Lover's Beach (Qíngrén Tān) and then headed for dinner, ready to try again tomorrow.

Searching for "Dear Inn": Hiking, Boating, and Unexpected Surprises

November 8th, overcast. We had originally planned to start a clockwise loop around the lake from Dàluòshuǐ (Big Falling Water), but the weather made us change our minds. Suddenly, I remembered the filming location of "Dear Inn." We asked the guesthouse manager, who said we needed to take a boat from Luowa Pier (Luòwǎ Mǎtóu).

We drove to Luowa Pier, but the weather was still gloomy. We decided to take the unconventional route—hike up first, then take the boat back. The mountain path was rugged, and my boots—chosen for photos—kept slipping. Luckily, Feng Ge was there to protect me every step of the way. Even though I was scared, the higher we climbed, the better the views became.

Halfway up, we finally spotted the "Dear Inn" location. At that moment, all the hardship was worth it. If we hadn't taken the small path, we would never have gotten this angle. The closer we got to our destination, the clearer the sky became. It was pure luck.

At the foot of the mountain, a wall blocked our path, so we had to take a boat. The price was the same as at the pier—80 yuan per person. The boat ride wasn't far, but by then, the sky had completely cleared, and the lake was so transparent under the sunlight that it looked like a mirror.

We finally made it! Even though I hadn't watched the show, the joy of taking photos at the spot was no less. The swing at the entrance, the mailbox—every detail was delightful. Feng Ge told me to pose in a certain spot. I didn't think much of it at the time, but when I looked back later, it turned out to be one of the best photos of the trip.

On the way back, we passed by Princess Island (Wángfēi Dǎo). Although the island itself was nothing special, standing on the observation deck and watching the pig-trough boats (zhūcáo chuán) glide across the blue water was a scene so beautiful it made my heart ache. In the morning, I had been worried about the weather, but now all my worries had vanished. That's the magic of travel—the surprise of "go with the flow."

Meeting the Sea of Reeds Again: Autumn's Colors, Worth the Wait

Leaving Luowa Pier, we drove back along the Sea of Reeds. The weather had been bad when we passed by in the morning, but now it was clear. A beautiful tree by the reeds made us stop immediately. That's the beauty of self-driving—you can stop whenever you want.

I had been to the Sea of Reeds a few times before, but I had never seen its most beautiful form until autumn. The golden reeds and the sapphire-blue water formed a stunning painting. Belle loved the photos we took there so much that she posted a nine-grid photo set on WeChat Moments that very night.

The Walking Marriage Bridge (Zǒuhūn Qiáo) was the busiest spot in the Sea of Reeds area. The reeds around it had all turned a brilliant gold. I had only ever seen the green sea of reeds before, but this season was truly more beautiful. We took a few "been there, done that" photos on the bridge, then spotted a nice shop and shamelessly stopped the car for more pictures. I had always wanted a photo with the Sea of Reeds and a pig-trough boat, and today, my wish finally came true.

Lige Peninsula: The Lake Is the Sky Turned Upside Down

After lunch, we continued our loop around the lake. Whenever we saw a nice tree, we stopped for photos—I have this obsession with changing outfits at every location. Autumn at Lugu Lake was truly beautiful, a season I had missed for so many years.

This was my third time at Lige (Lǐgé), and the weather was the best yet. The colorful pig-trough boats sparkled under the blue sky and white clouds. The lake reflected the sky, making it look like the sky turned upside down. We walked along the path into the peninsula, and under the right light, Lige Peninsula stood out brilliantly. We passed by a famous internet-famous guesthouse; I had seen photos of it online before, and it turned out to be right here in Lige.

At the observation deck, I noticed that Lige had become much more crowded than before. I didn't even feel like taking a tourist photo. But this visit showed me the most beautiful version of Lige I had ever seen.

Secret Garden: Living Halfway Up the Mountain, Surrounded by Flowers

A new day dawned, with clear skies arriving earlier than before. After breakfast at the guesthouse, we decided to take photos there first—it was practically a photography base. Crystal balls, gardens, flowers bathed in sunlight—everything was bursting with girlish charm. Every woman loves flowers, and here, it felt like owning a lakeside garden.

When we got tired of taking photos, we sat by the pool and soaked up the sun, feeling utterly content. I heard the garden would be even more beautiful next May. I knew I would come back.

Second Loop Around the Lake: A Final Glimpse Before Goodbye

We spent so much time taking photos at the guesthouse that it was almost 11 a.m. before we knew it. We had to return to Lijiang today, so after checking out, we started our second loop around the lake. Our first stop was Lover's Beach Pier (Qíngrén Tān Mǎtóu). I had spotted a yellow-leafed tree there two days earlier and was determined to photograph it before leaving.

Feng Ge drove the car right up to the lakeshore, and I sat in the trunk for photos. It had been a long time since I'd gone on a self-driving trip, and this sense of freedom felt amazing. On the way to Nisei Village (Nísè Cūn), we saw a bay with trees and reflections and stopped again. Even though shooting portraits in harsh overhead light was challenging, we did our best to find good angles.

Every time I was about to leave, unexpected rewards came my way. After lunch at Dàluòshuǐ, we wandered around. I had wanted to take a boat to see the seagulls, but we were two weeks too early—too few had arrived. Compared to the beauty of summer when the water flowers (shuǐxìng yáng huā) were in full bloom, Dàluòshuǐ in this season felt a bit lackluster.

Time was running out. We headed back to Lijiang. On the way, we stopped at an observation deck for one last look at Lugu Lake. I thought back to many memories. This was my third time on this road, and the years flashed before my eyes. Lugu Lake, how many more times will I meet you?

Flashback: My Stories with Lugu Lake Over the Years

The only regret of this trip was the lack of starry skies and sunsets, so I'll fill the gap with photos from years past.

In the summer of 2011, I visited Lugu Lake for the first time. Back then, I was just a beginner in photography, capturing the most beautiful memories of that summer with my Nikon D3000. At the time, I said: "Lugu Lake is the most beautiful place I've ever been."

During National Day in 2012, I came a second time, now with my dream camera, the Canon 5D Mark II. That trip was brief, but I took photos from almost the same spots and angles as before. What I couldn't get back was my youthful glow.

In June 2015, I came for the third time. That was a very happy year for me, traveling from Lugu Lake to Lijiang. I shot the starry sky at Dàluòshuǐ—my first time taking a photo with the stars. I was freezing but incredibly satisfied. In the early morning, I wandered by the lake and met a travel photographer. He took a photo of me, and we've become very good friends since.

Lover's Beach is, in my opinion, the most beautiful place to watch the sunset. Even two years later, I still remember sitting in front of that old boat.

Final Thoughts

Autumn at Lugu Lake is a visual feast. The golden Sea of Reeds, the sapphire-blue water, the colorful pig-trough boats—every frame is as beautiful as a painting. And the popularity of "Dear Inn" has brought this hidden gem back into the public eye, but its beauty has never needed any TV show to prove it.

If you want to find autumn at Lugu Lake, my advice is this: self-driving is the best way—you can stop anytime for photos. The Sea of Reeds and Lige Peninsula are must-sees. If you have time, stay a few extra days to wait for a sunset and a starry sky. Most importantly, bring a heart that can "go with the flow," because the magic of travel often lies in the surprises you never planned for.

Goodbye, Lugu Lake. We'll meet again.