Seize the Day While Youth and Time Remain – My Ten-Day Honeymoon in Yunnan

Seize the Day While Youth and Time Remain – My Ten-Day Honeymoon in Yunnan

Setting Off, to Remember How We Look in Love

"Seize the day while youth and time remain" – this phrase was like a seed quietly planted in my heart, finally sprouting in the spring of 2013. As the trivialities of daily life gradually consumed our youthful impulses, as the busyness of work made us forget our original dreams, I decided it was time to set off.

Yunnan – a place that had only existed in my mind on postcards: skies so blue they were transparent, clouds so white they seemed pure, lakes so clear you could see the bottom, and those dreamy swaying cosmos flowers. It wasn't until I actually set foot on that land that I suddenly realized: the distance wasn't so far after all.

This was a belated honeymoon trip, also a celebration of our first wedding anniversary. We spent ten days traveling from Beijing through Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, and finally arriving at Lugu Lake. Just the two of us, one suitcase, a Canon 600D camera, and hearts full of anticipation.


Pre-Trip Preparation: A Carefully Planned "Spur-of-the-Moment" Trip

Don't believe in "just go without planning" – a great trip is always the result of meticulous preparation.

Flights: Snagging Deals Two Months in Advance

We scored discounted tickets on China Eastern Airlines through Qunar.com: - Beijing → Kunming: MU5708, departing Capital Airport Terminal 2 at 20:25, 629 RMB/person (tax included) - Lijiang → Beijing: MU5707, departing Sanyi Airport at 14:40, 898 RMB/person (tax included)

Before departure, we worried about China Eastern's notorious delays, but both flights were on time – kudos to them. A friendly reminder though: their smaller planes shake quite a bit during turbulence, so if you're prone to motion sickness, bring medication.

Accommodation: Carefully Selected Stays

LocationHotelRoom TypePrice
KunmingLianqin Grand HotelDeluxe King Room178 RMB/night (incl. breakfast)
DaliFengqing Dali InnRose King Room180 RMB/night
LijiangOpen Sesame InnPremium King Room258 RMB/night
LijiangOpen Sesame InnHoneymoon King Room238 RMB/night
Lugu LakeLige Peninsula · The Other ShoreWinter Room370 RMB/night

Packing List: Don't Let Details Ruin Your Trip

  • Sunscreen: SPF 50+ is the bare minimum! Yunnan's UV rays are no joke. My husband didn't apply sunscreen, and after coming down from the snow mountain, his forehead and ears were severely sunburned, even developing blisters – something that didn't even happen in Bali.
  • Hydrating Face Masks: March in Yunnan is dry and windy. Women must bring plenty.
  • Camera: Canon 600D with 18-55mm kit lens – entry-level, but enough to capture the beauty.
  • Clothing: Large temperature differences between morning and evening. A padded fleece jacket works perfectly; at noon, you might feel like wearing short sleeves.

Total Cost: 13,000 RMB for two people (including flights, hotels, transportation, meals, tickets, and everything else).


Day 1: Beijing → Kunming | Night Flight Surprises and Hassles

March 1st, Friday. We took leave early, dragged our suitcases, and headed straight for the airport express train (25 RMB/person). Friday evening rush hour – hailing a taxi was wishful thinking; the airport express was the smartest choice.

The flight departed on time and landed at Kunming Changshui Airport at 23:55. Since we had to catch a bus to Dali the next day, we booked the Lianqin Grand Hotel near the Western Bus Station. The taxi from the airport cost 129 RMB – as it turned out, "nearby" was only relative.


Day 2: Kunming → Dali | First Glimpse of the Ancient City's Charm

The Early Bird Misses the Worm

Woke up at 7 AM, had breakfast at the hotel, and headed straight for the Western Bus Station with our luggage. We thought buying tickets in the off-season would be easy, but we stood on the roadside for 20 minutes without finding a taxi. We didn't arrive at the station until 9 AM, only to find long lines at over a dozen ticket counters – so much for the off-season!

Fortunately, buses from Kunming to Dali run every ten minutes. We got tickets for the 10:15 departure, 142 RMB/person (including insurance). We had a 30-minute rest stop in Chuxiong and arrived at Dali Xiaguan Bus Station at 3:30 PM.

From Xiaguan, we took a taxi to the south gate of the ancient city – no meter, 50 RMB. The driver was very helpful, driving around to find the Fengqing Dali Inn for us.

Fengqing Dali Inn: A Peaceful Retreat on Wenxian Road

The inn is at No. 81 Wenxian Road, not inside the ancient city but close to the south gate – a quiet spot amid the bustle. The Rose King Room was clean and comfortable, fully equipped. Opening the window, you could feel Dali's laid-back vibe.

First Exploration of the Ancient City: From South Gate to Erhai Gate

We dropped our bags and couldn't wait to dive into the ancient city. March in Yunnan is early spring – peach blossoms were just beginning to bloom. The city's streets are laid out in a neat grid, making it nearly impossible to get lost.

Beside Honglongjing (Red Dragon Well) is the famous "Dreaming of Nanzhao." Following Honglongjing to Bo'ai Road, we stumbled upon "Luo Qi" – walls covered with original postcards, exuding an artsy vibe.

Yingfeng Roasted Rice Cakes (英凤烧饵块): Seeing a long line of locals, we joined in. Made from purple rice and corn flour, these rice cakes are wrapped around fried dough sticks and sausages, slathered with various sauces – 2.5 RMB each. If you can't handle spicy food, be sure to emphasize "less spicy" – Yunnan's chilies are no joke.

Foreigner Street (洋人街): We had Dali's sour plum soup and wandered past Sakura House – quiet during the day, but it must come alive at night.

Erhai Gate: By the time we reached here, the sun was about to set, but it doesn't get dark in Dali until after 7:30 PM. On our way back, every little shop had adorable dogs at the door – a yapping Teddy, and a black dog that seemed to help its owner attract customers, incredibly photogenic.

In the evening, we ordered a Blue Lover cocktail, house-made milk tea, and fries at "Dreaming of Nanzhao" – total 97 RMB. The milk tea was a bit bland, but the atmosphere was lovely.


Day 3: Shuanglang | Spending an Entire Day Daydreaming by Erhai Lake

The inn owner recommended a driver for us – 200 RMB/day for Shuanglang and a tour around Erhai Lake. Departing from Dali's south gate, the drive took an hour and a half. To our left was Cangshan Mountain, to our right was Erhai Lake – the scenery was so beautiful we couldn't bear to blink.

Shuanglang: An Artistic Haven Amid a Construction Site

Shuanglang was exactly as the travel guides described – buildings going up everywhere, every household building a guesthouse. Yet even so, its beauty remained undeniable.

Fensi Hotel (粉四酒店): Run by Yang Liping's sister, located on the main street at Shuanglang's entrance.

Qingchen & Anne's Cat House (青尘 & Anne猫窝): Enter through a small path next to Fensi Hotel, past a little archway. Five adorable cats, blue-and-white decor, clean and fresh. We ordered Cat Bean Latte and Cat House Milk Tea – much richer than last night's. A cat named "White Hug" lay lazily on the table, letting anyone pet it.

Haijie (Sea Street): Across from Qingchen, with many特色 bars. Across the water, Nanzhao Customs Island requires a boat to reach – we just admired it from afar.

Yuji Island (玉肌岛): Home to Yang Liping's Sun Palace and Moon Palace. Off-season tickets: 10 RMB/person, peak season: 25 RMB/person. You can only view these "palaces" from a distance unless you're staying inside.

Searching for Peninsula 63 and Haidi Life

These two places are tucked away at the far end of Shuanglang, with many small岔路 (side paths) along the way. Though there were signs, navigating them was maddening. At noon, the sun was so strong we wanted to strip down – March Yunnan's UV rays are truly intense.

We finally found Peninsula 63. Sitting on the public terrace, with Erhai Lake right beside us, everything was so peaceful. Across the way, Haidi Life had the most photographed platform. Everyone took turns posing for photos – the atmosphere was harmonious and lovely.

Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple: Great Photos Even from Outside

On our way back from Shuanglang, the driver dropped us off at the entrance to Chongsheng Temple's Three Pagodas. Tickets: 120 RMB/person. The driver said there was no need to go in – you could get the same great shots from outside. Bottled water was 5 RMB each – a sure sign this was a frequent stop for tour groups.

Food Recommendation: One Pot Spring (一壶春)

Following the driver's advice, we looked for Cang'er Chun (苍洱春) on Renmin Road in the ancient city – but this century-old restaurant was under renovation. Not giving up, we found One Pot Spring (一壶春) in an alley 200 meters outside the north gate.

The ordering method was unique: you go to the kitchen yourself to see the ingredients, all washed and laid out on the floor. We ordered stir-fried snails, braised chicken, stir-fried bean sprouts, and seaweed soup (also known as "watery poplar flower") – total 161 RMB. Famished, we felt for the first time that food could taste this good.

Wuhua Tower for a Panoramic View

In the evening, we climbed Wuhua Tower – 2 RMB/person – for a bird's-eye view of the ancient city. That afternoon, friends messaged us saying a 5.5-magnitude earthquake had hit Dali – we hadn't felt a thing. We later learned the epicenter was over 70 kilometers away in Eryuan.


Day 4: Dali → Lijiang | Slow Time on the Train

We bought train tickets in advance on 12306 – 44 RMB each. They were actually sleeper berths converted to soft seats: three people per lower bunk, with luggage stored on the upper bunks.

Departed at 9:27 AM, scheduled to arrive in Lijiang at 12:00 PM, but we ended up stopped inside a tunnel for over 40 minutes with no phone signal. The legendary "scenic train ride from Dali to Lijiang" turned out to be all tunnels, with the train moving at what seemed like less than 40 kilometers per hour – confirming the Yunnan saying: "Among Yunnan's eighteen quirks, cars are faster than trains."

We finally arrived in Lijiang at 2:30 PM. The Open Sesame Inn we'd booked arranged a pickup, but the driver had to wait at the station – we had no signal and couldn't notify him.

Open Sesame Inn: Two Room Experiences

Premium King Room: 258 RMB/night. The wooden building offered no soundproofing – even worse than expected. Honeymoon King Room: 238 RMB/night. This was our last night after returning from Lugu Lake.

First Impressions of Lijiang: A Maze of an Ancient City

Lijiang's ancient city is far more complex than Dali's – lots of small paths and岔路 (side roads). A map is essential. On the first day, we explored Sifang Street, Qiyi Street, and the Big Waterwheel. The most common shops sold music CDs, scarves, Dongba paper products, and various silver items – silver was expensive, so buy with caution.

Dongba Paper: Made through a complex process, this is an ancient Naxi paper. I particularly loved the bookmarks made from it.

Sifang Street: Elderly women dance here every day. Locals say that in their culture, 80 isn't even considered old – there are many centenarians. Such a carefree life – truly enviable.

Bunong Bells (布农铃): Located next to the Big Stone Bridge, these are handmade, each bell with a unique sound. I bought one to hang by my bed – every time I hear it ring, it takes me back to Lijiang.

Big Waterwheel: The iconic landmark of the ancient city, the most crowded spot – it felt like everyone was squeezed in here.

Dongba Wishing Bells: How many people's wishes are written on these?

Foodie Check-Ins

Zifeiyu (子非鱼): The taste was amazing – we went back a second time. Their October Sour Plum Soup was better than Dali's, with hawthorn fruit pieces inside. The spicy Old Lady Potatoes were delicious, and my husband loved the Naxi grilled fish. Three dishes each time, around 120 RMB.

Alili (阿哩哩): Chicken bean jelly, potato-skin dumplings, preserved pork ribs, and Yunnan's signature Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon beer. This beer should have been drunk in Dali, but we kept putting it off until Lijiang.


Day 5: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain | Frolicking at 4,680 Meters

We booked a car through "Lijiang Slow Life" on Taobao – 200 RMB/day. The owner was very welcoming and gave us lots of advice in advance. We originally planned to go to Shangri-La, but he said March isn't the best season and suggested Lugu Lake instead – a recommendation that proved spot-on.

Snow Mountain Guide: New Rules After Price Adjustment

Entrance ticket: 125 RMB/person (includes scenic area shuttle bus fee). Main cable car: 180 RMB/person – these were the new prices effective March 1, 2013, and we just happened to catch them.

The snow mountain is considered a sacred mountain by locals. Though it had been drought-stricken for three consecutive years and the snow was sparse, its beauty remained breathtaking.

The Summit Climb: Altitude Sickness and Perseverance

After ticket inspection, the shuttle bus took us to an altitude of 3,356 meters to board the cable car. The off-season meant no lines. The main cable car brought us up to 4,506 meters, from where we had to walk along the boardwalk to the summit at 4,680 meters.

For someone like me who doesn't exercise regularly, this was a huge challenge. Altitude sickness hit me right away – ringing ears, dizziness, difficulty breathing. Fortunately, we'd bought oxygen in the ancient city beforehand (25 RMB/bottle), but it tasted like plastic. By the time I reached 4,585 meters, I'd finished one bottle and had to buy oxygen on the mountain at the national standard price (68 RMB/bottle) – this one had plenty of gas and no weird taste.

Driver Li said that once you start inhaling oxygen, you become dependent and can't stop. Well, I guess I couldn't stop.

4,680 Meters: Everything Was Worth It

The higher we climbed, the bluer the sky, the stronger the sunlight. The mist from the past few days was now beneath us, and we finally saw the blue sky and white clouds. My husband didn't inhale a single breath of oxygen and had no altitude sickness – is this the gap between us?

At the summit, my altitude sickness symptoms actually eased. Red flags fluttered in the wind, heart-shaped clouds floated by, and there were wedding photos being taken on the snow mountain – they must have been stunning.

Important Reminder: The sun on the snow mountain is incredibly intense! My husband didn't apply sunscreen on his forehead and ears, and after coming down, they were severely sunburned, even developing blisters. Those who don't properly apply sunscreen will pay the price!

Blue Moon Valley: A Turquoise Fairyland Beneath the Snow Mountain

After coming down from the cable car, we took the shuttle to Blue Moon Valley. Note: There are several shuttle routes – make sure to ask the driver where they're going before boarding.

Meltwater from the snow mountain, due to minerals on the lakebed, turns a beautiful turquoise color in Blue Moon Valley. After passing through the White Water Terrace, it reverts to normal water color – nature is truly magical.

Back to the Ancient City

We returned to the ancient city at 5 PM, still plenty of daylight. We ate at No. 88 Snack Shop (88号小吃店) – always packed every time we passed by, but today we avoided the dinner rush. Chicken bean jelly 4.5 RMB/portion, clay pot rice noodles, riverside spicy dish, clay pot baby cabbage – total 70 RMB.

A'an Desserts (阿安甜品) had excellent yogurt – we had to have a cup every night. Red bean yogurt 10 RMB/portion, mixed fruit bowl 12 RMB/portion – all made with fresh fruit.

In the evening, we wandered into Bamboo (班布). Xiao Qian's song "In an Instant" was playing on loop in every shop in Lijiang – it felt like brainwashing.


Day 6: Lashi Lake Horseback Riding & Shuhe Ancient Town

Car rental for Lashi Lake: 100 RMB/day. There are numerous horse farms and day tours in the ancient city, but you need to keep your eyes open – many have hidden tricks.

(Since the original article cuts off here, the subsequent itinerary cannot be fully presented, but the first six days' highlights are already enough to stir the heart.)


In Conclusion: The Meaning of Travel

Over these ten days, we experienced so many firsts: the first time we couldn't catch our breath at high altitude, the first time we got blistered by UV rays, the first time we spent an entire afternoon daydreaming by Erhai Lake, the first time we saw heart-shaped clouds from a snow mountain summit.

But most importantly, it was the first time we completed a journey together as "husband and wife."

The beauty of Yunnan isn't about how stunning the attractions are – it's about those unexpected moments of emotion: the cat named "White Hug" in Shuanglang, the song "In an Instant" playing on loop in Lijiang's ancient city, that turquoise lake water at the foot of the snow mountain, the guitar of a wandering singer in the ancient city late at night.

Seize the day while youth and time remain. Keep dreaming. Keep loving.


Quick Practical Tips

  1. Best Season: March is off-season, dry with little rain, but extremely strong UV rays
  2. Sunscreen Essential: SPF 50+ sunscreen; physical protection (hats, sunglasses) is also a must
  3. Transportation Options: Kunming to Dali by bus – 5 hours (142 RMB); Dali to Lijiang by train – 3 hours (44 RMB)
  4. Accommodation Advice: Book in advance; great value in off-season
  5. Altitude Sickness: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain reaches 4,680 meters; bring oxygen and move slowly
  6. Food Recommendations: Yingfeng Roasted Rice Cakes, One Pot Spring, Zifeiyu, Alili, No. 88 Snack Shop
  7. Shopping Reminder: Silver items in Lijiang are expensive; Dongba paper bookmarks are worth collecting
  8. Car Rental Advice: Choose reputable platforms to avoid being taken to shopping stops

Total Cost: Two people, ten days – 13,000 RMB, including flights, hotels, transportation, meals, tickets, and all other expenses.