Shuanglang: A Spontaneous Date with Erhai Lake — So Beautiful It Makes You Want to Elope

The Beginning: An Unplanned, Accidental Journey

Some trips are meticulously planned; others feel like gifts quietly slipped into your lap by fate. On the eve of National Day in 2015, a few friends and I were still scratching our heads over where to spend the holiday. Initially, our eyes were set on Gulangyu Island — that sacred pilgrimage site for every artsy soul. But when we heard that during National Day, Gulangyu was so packed you could only move "one meter in five minutes, and the island was practically sinking underfoot," we quickly scrapped that idea.

Just as we were hesitating, a friend casually mentioned two places: Shuanglang and Daocheng Yading. Sure, Daocheng Yading is breathtakingly beautiful, but it demands the stamina and grit of a seasoned backpacker. As someone who just wanted to "lie flat" during the holiday, I didn't hesitate to choose Shuanglang. A quick online search, and the shimmering waters of Erhai Lake hit me like a bolt of lightning — this was it!

But Shuanglang's popularity far exceeded my expectations. Those famous guesthouses weren't just booked for National Day — they were fully reserved for the next two months as well. We made dozens of phone calls, scoured Weibo, and were about to give up when good news finally came: a brand-new guesthouse had just opened, a few days before National Day! We quickly booked three rooms at 680 yuan, 880 yuan, and 1,280 yuan respectively. And just like that, a trip born of pure coincidence officially kicked off.

Trip Overview: Costs and Transportation

Expense Breakdown

Since it was the National Day Golden Week, airfare had no discounts, and guesthouse prices were jacked up. The guesthouse we stayed at, "Hongyutang," normally starts at 480 yuan on regular days but went up to 680 yuan during the holiday. On top of that, we hadn't booked return tickets in advance. Originally, we could have flown directly to Liuzhou, but instead, we had to fly from Dali to Guilin and then take a bus back to Liuzhou — both expensive and exhausting. If you're planning to go, avoid peak season and book your tickets early — it'll save you a ton of money!

Transportation Details

• Liuzhou → Kunming: China Eastern Airlines MU5778, 14:50–16:10, 880 yuan
• Kunming → Dali: Rental car (Camry), 3 days, approximately 3,000 yuan
• Shuanglang → Dali Changshui Airport: Minivan, 200 yuan
• Dali → Kunming: Lucky Air 8L9904, 8:30–9:10, 1,280 yuan
• Kunming → Guilin: Lucky Air 8L9977, 16:50–18:20, 1,020 yuan

Accommodation and Dining

• Kunming Jinjiang Hotel: Approximately 400 yuan
• Dali Runze Hotel: Approximately 230 yuan
• Shuanglang Hongyutang: 680 yuan, 880 yuan, and 1,280 yuan room types, stayed two nights
• Dining: Average of about 600 yuan per meal for five people

Day 1: First Impressions of Kunming — A Boozy, Blissful Start

On October 2nd, I took flight MU5778 from Liuzhou to Kunming to meet up with friends who had flown in from Shenzhen. After checking into the Jinjiang Hotel, we headed straight to a uniquely charming restaurant called "Train Station 1910." Yunnan cuisine has never let me down, and this time was no exception. Every dish hit the spot perfectly.

After dinner, we did the tourist thing and took a quick stroll around Green Lake (Cuihu), had a cup of tea at a tea house, and then charged over to Kunming's famous Bar Street in the Kundu district. Coincidentally, I had been to Kunming's MUSE bar back in August, and here I was again. That night, I got pretty drunk. Hey, we were having fun! We dubbed ourselves the "Boozy Bliss Crew," and I was the poster child for the "boozy" part.

Day 2: Dali Old Town — Surprises and a Scam

On October 3rd, we slept in and then rented a Camry with Beijing plates. We originally wanted a nicer car, but the one we booked wasn't available, so we had to settle. On the road, we sang at the top of our lungs, chattering away like a bunch of kids on a spring outing.

The five-hour drive from Kunming to Dali went smoothly — no highway traffic jams, just a short wait at the exit. When we got to Dali Old Town, we found that the hotel we booked, "Meet in Dali," had no room for us! Luckily, a friend's phone app, "Flight Butler," came to the rescue and found vacancies nearby. We quickly switched to the "Runze Hotel," which had a spacious courtyard and plenty of rooms. We even lucked into a massive suite — big enough to run laps in!

After settling in, it was time to treat our stomachs. We sat down at a street-side food stall and ordered local specialties like Jianshui chicken feet, stir-fried eggs with edible flowers, and braised chicken, all washed down with the famous "Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon" beer. The name sounds romantic, but it actually refers to Dali's four major attractions: the wind of Xiaguan, the flowers of Shangguan, the snow of Cangshan Mountain, and the moon of Erhai Lake.

But when the bill came, we were stunned — a few dishes cost 880 yuan! Turns out, we had ordered a local Erhai bow fish at 168 yuan per catty, and that fish alone was nearly 500 yuan. The catch? No one had asked the price when ordering. After some back-and-forth with the owner, we got a 100-yuan discount. So, always ask about prices when ordering, especially for items listed as "market price"!

Day 3: Shuanglang, I've Finally Arrived!

First Sight of Erhai Lake — Struck by Beauty

On October 4th, we set off from Dali Old Town. Just over an hour later, Shuanglang came into view. When the shimmering surface of Erhai Lake first hit our eyes, everyone in the car went wild! The two girls couldn't wait to jump out and start jumping and posing for photos by the roadside. Since I had read some guides and knew there was even more beauty inside Shuanglang, I managed to keep my cool — but inside, I was already a whirlwind of excitement.

Hongyutang — Where the Dream Began

Shuanglang town is roughly divided into three areas: Yuji Island, Dajianpang Village, and Nanzhao Customs Island. The guesthouse we stayed at, Hongyutang, is located on Sea Street (Haijie), pretty much the center of Shuanglang. It's a small guesthouse but exquisitely designed. Of the three rooms we booked, the 680-yuan one on the ground floor had a view of Erhai Lake but was a bit close to the kitchen. The two upstairs rooms were both great, especially the 1,280-yuan suite — spacious, bright, and with a small balcony. What blew me away most was the mattress — reportedly worth 20,000 yuan each, huge, soft, and incredibly comfortable. The guesthouse's philosophy is "selling sleep," and it lives up to the name.

Standing in front of the floor-to-ceiling windows in the room, Erhai Lake stretched out before me, unobstructed. In that moment, all the travel fatigue melted away.

Quick plug: Hongyutang is at No. 3 Sea Street, with six fully sea-view rooms, all with king-size beds. Regular price starts at 380 yuan, and during Golden Week, 680 yuan. Phone: 153-6899-2916 / 0872-2505998.

Food and Drink — The Right Way to Experience Shuanglang

After dropping our luggage, we were starving and headed straight to a restaurant right outside the guesthouse by the lake. It's both a dining spot and a perfect photo location. The menu features Sichuan cuisine, and the food was top-notch: thick-sliced twice-cooked pork, beer-braised duck with green beans, sour soup with gui fish (a local freshwater fish), maoxuewang (a spicy blood curd and tripe stew), and a delicious chicken soup. Enjoying great food with that view — all worries just vanished.

I especially recommend carved plum wine (diaomei jiu) — sweet, fragrant, and smooth, with a surprisingly strong kick. One of the volunteers working at the guesthouse got a bit tipsy after just half a glass from us!

After dinner, we hung out on the large second-floor balcony, sipping red wine, drinking tea, taking photos, and goofing around. That big lounge chair got squeezed and piled on by all of us, nearly tipping over a few times, but it held up — I guess that's the "quality" of Shuanglang.

Strolling Through Shuanglang — Every Frame Is a Painting

After a short rest, we started exploring Shuanglang's beauty in depth. First, we visited Yang Liping's Sun Palace and Moon Palace, as well as Zhao Qing's Qinglu. Qinglu's design is incredibly striking, especially the lounge chairs made from old boat wood. Lying under the flowers, reading a book and sipping tea — that's the ultimate luxury in life. A caretaker at Qinglu, who looked like a monk, even took a photo of me from a unique angle, and I loved it.

Shuanglang's beauty lies in its spontaneity. A couple on the roadside lifting their feet to soak up the sun, the irresistible aroma wafting from street food stalls, a big dog at the Fensi Hotel that looks intimidating but is incredibly gentle — every corner is a scene, every moment worth capturing.

In the evening, we enjoyed more delicious Sichuan food. Our friend Xiaodie suddenly felt unwell — dizzy and nauseous. We thought it was food poisoning, but then... she bought a can of oxygen, and the symptoms disappeared instantly! Getting altitude sickness in Shuanglang? That's some sensitive constitution!

We thought about hitting the island's most happening spot, "Tang Dynasty Bar," but after a quick look inside, it felt a bit sketchy. Locals told us it's kind of a "hookup bar," with lots of local guys lurking around. Girls, better be cautious if you go there.

Day 4: Cloudy Days Have Their Own Charm

Sunrise Foiled, but Mood Still Bright

On the morning of October 5th, a friend's WeChat message woke me up, calling everyone to watch the sunrise. I dragged myself out of bed and took a walk along the lakeshore. Unfortunately, the clouds were too thick, and we didn't see the sunrise. But cloudy days have their own beauty — the lake was like a mirror, the distant mountains like ink strokes, with a unique, understated charm.

I went back for a nap, then got up and had a bowl of braised pork rice noodles (pa rou mixian) and ersi (a type of rice noodle). Ersi is a bit like the rice cakes we have back home — chewy and distinctive in texture.

Visiting the Famous Guesthouses — Haili Life and Peninsula 63

Today, we started from the left side of Hongyutang and headed toward Dajianpang Village to check out the famous guesthouses. Peninsula 63, Warm Garden, Haili Life — each had its own style. In front of Haili Life, there's a public viewing platform with those iconic white tables and chairs, now a must-visit photo spot for tourists. While the actual setup is smaller than it looks in photos, the pictures still come out stunningly beautiful.

I even took a selfie there. After setting the timer, I ran into frame like an idiot a few times before getting it right — but seeing the final shot made it all worth it.

A tip: If you really care about the accommodation experience and want to soak in different guesthouse cultures, make sure to book well in advance. If you're a solo backpacker, rooms are tight but you can usually find a spot — worst case, you can add a bed at a local's home. If you're traveling as a couple, definitely go for a sea-view room — the romance is something no hotel can match.

Nanzhao Customs Island — A "Rip-off"?

In the afternoon, we took a boat to the opposite Nanzhao Customs Island. The ticket was 35 yuan, round trip. There wasn't much to do on the island — the scenery was far less impressive than Yuji Island. Other than a giant Buddha statue, there was almost nothing noteworthy. Worse still, I had a caramel macchiato at a bar on the island, and it gave me such a bad stomachache I was frantically searching for a public restroom — which didn't exist on the island! I had to run all the way to a hotel to find a toilet. Later, I found out that Xiaodie, who had the same coffee, also got hit! So, be careful about what you eat and drink on the road, especially at sketchy little shops.

An Evening Encounter

We had dinner at a restaurant called Fisherman's Village on Sea Street, and the food was good. Afterward, we stopped by a quiet bar called "Gesang Yunhai" and met a few guys from Beijing. That's the thing about travel — you run into all kinds of people. If you click, you might even become friends, even if only for that brief moment. It's worth cherishing.

Day 5: A Reluctant Farewell

On October 6th, since I only booked my ticket on the 5th, all afternoon flights from Dali to Kunming were sold out. The only option was an 8:30 AM flight from Dali to Kunming. I had to leave at 6 AM, so I barely slept, staying up chatting with the two girls until dawn.

The drive from Shuanglang to Dali Airport takes about an hour. A minibus costs 200 yuan per trip, and as long as it's not overloaded, the more people, the cheaper it is per person. Since my flight was so early, I couldn't find anyone to share the ride, so I had to charter the whole van myself.

The flight took off on time from 8:30 to 9:10. At Kunming Airport, I had to wait a grueling six hours before catching my flight to Guilin. Finally, I took a bus from Guilin back to Liuzhou, exhausted and sleepy — but my heart was full of satisfaction.

Final Thoughts: Shuanglang, Worth a Return Visit

Despite a few hiccups, this trip to Shuanglang went pretty smoothly overall. The biggest lesson: plan ahead, especially for transportation, and book your flights early. Because I was waiting for my companions to confirm their return dates, I booked late. What could have been a direct flight to Liuzhou turned into a detour through Guilin — both costly and exhausting.

Shuanglang's beauty is the kind you have to experience for yourself. A hundred people will see a hundred different versions of Shuanglang. Some think it's just okay; others fall hopelessly in love with it. What I want to say is: you get out of it what you put into it. It's like the same script directed by different filmmakers — each produces a different movie. Maybe my photos and words can't fully capture its beauty, but I hope that when you one day stand by the shores of Erhai Lake, you'll feel that same flutter in your heart that I did.

Finally, a big thank you to the "Second Fairy" at Hongyutang. I lost my glasses at the Gesang Yunhai bar. I told her about it, and she quickly found them and mailed them back to me. That kind of warmth is also part of what makes Shuanglang special.

Shuanglang, see you next time!

All photos in this article were taken by the author with a Canon 400D and decent lenses. People in the photos were mostly shot by friends or passersby; still lifes and landscapes were self-taken by the author.