Soul Returns to Chanda: A Pilgrimage to "My Chief and My Regiment"

If you've ever laughed, cried, or fallen silent over the fate of that ragtag cannon-fodder regiment in My Chief and My Regiment, then you understand—Chanda is not a place on a map. It's a dream.

In that dream, there are damp cobblestone lanes, a washing pavilion beneath a crooked tree, and the moment a girl named Xiao Zui opens her door. Outside the dream, there's the bougainvillea still blooming in Heshun Ancient Town, Tengchong, and the forgotten remains of the regimental depot that tourists pass by without a second glance.

Some say that after watching the show, a piece of your soul stays behind in Chanda forever. And when you finally set foot on that land, you realize—it's not you searching for Chanda. It's Chanda waiting for you to come home.

How to Get to Chanda: A Practical Travel Guide

Chanda isn't fictional. Its real-world coordinates are in Heshun Ancient Town, Tengchong City, Baoshan, Yunnan Province. If you're starting from Kunming, the route is straightforward:

• Kunming Station → Baoshan Station: Take a C-series bullet train, about 4 hours, fare 177 RMB
• Baoshan Station → Tengchong Convenient Bus Station: Exit the station, cross the street to Baoshan North Bus Terminal, take a bus for about 2 hours 10 minutes, fare 67 RMB. Book tickets in advance on the "Baoxingxing" mini-app—tickets sell out fast during peak season
• Tengchong → Heshun Ancient Town: Take a taxi or local bus, about 16 RMB

The whole journey takes around 7 hours. But the moment your feet hit Heshun's stone-paved paths, every bit of travel fatigue melts away.

Staying in Chanda: Quiet Moments by Wild Duck Lake

For accommodation, I recommend a guesthouse near Wild Duck Lake. At night, the lake is so still that all you hear is the water and the wind. Walking slowly along its edge, even your breath feels cleaner. The only downside is that it's a bit far from the small central market street, and the roads back are dimly lit—better to go with company.

May is the rainy season in Tengchong. It doesn't pour all day, but the rain comes and goes, the weather shifting constantly. Yet somehow, this damp, gloomy atmosphere makes Chanda feel even more like that perpetually gray border town from the show.

Walking the streets, bougainvillea blooms with fierce stubbornness. Seeing those clusters of purple-red flowers, my mind flashed to the scene where Fanla drags Long Wenzhang back from the sand-table drill at division headquarters—and in that moment, your heart swells with the same raw emotion.

Chanda Check-In Map: Every Spot Tells a Story

Xiao Zui's House: The Door Is Locked, but the Memory Isn't

Search for "Xiao Zui's House" or "Shanshui Minju Inn" on your navigation app. The crooked tree at the corner has grown even fuller, as if guarding Xiao Zui's home for her.

Xiao Zui's house is now abandoned, the door tightly locked—you can't see a thing inside. But the door is covered with messages from fans, and even the landlord's sign has been scribbled over. This "invasive" kind of devotion is equal parts hilarious and touching. Word has it that from the upper floor of the Shanshui Minju Inn across the street, you can look down into Xiao Zui's courtyard—ask the owner if you're curious.

Standing at the door, you can't help but whisper to yourself: "Xiao Zui, I've been to your house. Don't be scared when you walk in."

Xiao Zui's Washing Pavilion: The Most Romantic Scene in the Show

Search for "Xiao Zui's Washing Pavilion." It's just outside one of the scenic area's entrances. The narrow path gets very slippery in the rain, so watch your step.

This is where Xiao Zui and Fanla stood, separated by the pavilion's pillars, never quite having their conversation—yet melting every viewer's heart. That awkward, clumsy, unspoken romance is the gentlest touch in the entire series.

The Regimental Depot: Where the Cannon-Fodder Regiment Began

Search for "Zhang Family Ancestral Hall." It's not open to the public, so you can only look from outside. A few steps back is where Long Wenzhang presented his gun to Yu Xiaoqing.

Standing here, you can almost hear the noise of those cannon-fodder soldiers—their shouts, their laughter, their tears. This is where they set out for Burma, for Nantianmen, for their separate fates.

The Hall Where Long Wenzhang Was Tried: The "Spirit Dance" Scene

Search for "Yin Family Ancestral Hall." It's now a parking lot, but you can go inside. Walk to the innermost hall—that's where Long Wenzhang did his "spirit dance," the one set to the Turkish March.

Standing in that empty hall, the melody automatically plays in your head, and you can't help but laugh out loud.

Yu Xiaoqing's Division Headquarters: The Steep Stairs and Fanla's Coat

Search for "Li Family Ancestral Hall." This was an important set piece—the division headquarters. Those stairs are steep and high. No wonder Fanla had to grab onto Milong's coat to climb them. Thinking of our little lame boy, it really breaks your heart.

The arched doorway at the front has become a trendy photo spot in the ancient town. If you want a shot without other tourists, go early in the morning.

Lotus Pond Bend: Where the Cannon-Fodder Regiment Was Welcomed Home

I searched for this spot for a long time. Turns out, searching for "Zhang Family Courtyard" is the most accurate. The bend in the road is unmistakable. Standing there, you can almost see the regiment returning from Burma, being welcomed by the lotus pond.

Milong's Courtyard: A Cozy Corner Combining Guesthouse and Café

Search for "Milong's House, Caishan Jingshu." The small slope outside is where the cannon-fodder soldiers were locked out by Milong.

Milong's house is now a small courtyard that serves as both a guesthouse and a café. I gathered my courage and walked in; the owner gave me permission. The yard is full of flowers and plants, small but exquisite. What moved me most were the guest books piled high with messages from fans, and the "Cilong Foundation" stamp—Milong is still the thoughtful Milong.

The Fanla-Xiao Zui Kiss: Romance at the Corner

Continue uphill from Milong's house. At the turn is where Fanla and Xiao Zui kissed—and where A Yi shouted that classic line, "Pay attention to tactical maneuvers!" Standing there, you can't help but smile.

The Veterinarian Looking for Keys and "I'll Take You Flying"

Search for "Thousand-Hand Guanyin Ancient Tree Group." This is a proper scenic spot in the ancient town, often filled with young women in ethnic costumes taking photos. It's about a 15-minute walk from Milong's house, much closer if you're staying at the Bo Lian Hot Spring Hotel.

The veterinarian's frantic search for his keys, and Milong's bossy yet tender "I'll take you flying"—both happened on this slope. The path isn't easy to walk, but Milong's rare moments of gentleness, aside from his wife, were all for Fanla.

Old Fanla's Scenes: A Patient Search

Old Fanla's monologue scenes are also in the ancient town, but many landmarks have changed over time. It takes a lot of effort to find them. Here are some clues:

• Meeting Snake's Butt (Shepigu): Search for "Xiaoxiang Coffee · Bean Warehouse"
• Meeting Little-Mouthed Zhang Lixian: Search for "Heshun Library," walk left a few dozen meters, take the first fork uphill
• Old Fanla Watching Old Yu Xiaoqing: Search for "Double Rainbow Bridge," opposite the Heshun Library

It took me a day and a half to check off all these spots. You'll have plenty of time to also browse the small market street and try the unusual "稀豆粉" (thin chickpea porridge). As for the "铜瓢牛肉火锅" (copper-pot beef hotpot), it's too much for one person—better to go with company.

Three Meters Away Shop: A Secret Base for Swapping Fan Merch

In the ancient town, there's a shop called "Three Meters Away," a place for fans to exchange memorabilia. If you have homemade cards, pins, or drawings, bring them along to trade. It's our secret handshake, our ritual.

Yunnan-Burma War of Resistance Memorial Hall: Finding Long Wenzhang's Name

Buy two flowers at the entrance of the Yunnan-Burma War of Resistance Memorial Hall, then scan your code to enter. Find the Wall of Names of the Chinese Expeditionary Force. Walk to the left side, look for a tree on the steps—Long Wenzhang's name is on the wall near that tree, quite high up. You'll need to stand on tiptoe to get a clear photo.

I wonder if the screenwriter (249) got goosebumps when he discovered this coincidence.

In the special exhibition hall on the second floor, the actor who played old Fanla was a real veteran of the Expeditionary Force. Standing before his photo, you realize—those stories were never just fiction.

In the End: Go See the Soul You Left Behind

Many people say that after watching My Chief and My Regiment, a part of your soul stays in Chanda, unable to move on. When you get there, you understand—scenes from the show replay in your mind like a carousel, and the dialogue echoes in your ears.

If you get the chance, you must visit Heshun Ancient Town. Not for the check-ins, not for the photos—but to meet the soul you left behind.

Step on the cobblestones. Touch the crooked tree. Breathe in the scent of bougainvillea. Tell that girl Xiao Zui that you've been to her house. Tell those cannon-fodder soldiers that their story is remembered.

Chanda is not a place. Chanda is a homecoming. You go there, and you come back to yourself.