#Style Travel Contest# Heading West to Dali: Finding My Lost Self by Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake

"Are you unsatisfied with life, haven't smiled in a long time and don't know why? Since you're unhappy and don't like it here, why not head west to Dali..."

Hao Yun's song "Going to Dali" captured the hearts of countless city dwellers. In the fall of 2014, my friend Chao and I also set out on that westward journey. There were no romantic fantasies like in the movie Breakup Buddies, no pretentious declarations from artsy types—just a spontaneous impulse to go. And as it turned out, some trips exactly need that kind of reckless abandon.

Why Did We Go? Because If We Didn't Go Now, We'd Never Go

Someone once said: At 18, you start college and when asked about your dreams, you say "travel the world." At 22, you graduate and say "I'll go once my career is stable." At 26, you have a job and say "after I buy a house." At 30, you have a car and a house and say "after I get married and bring my wife." At 35, you have a kid and say "when the child is older." At 40, the child is grown and you say "when the elderly are settled." In the end, you go nowhere.

That passage stings like a thorn, lodged in the hearts of everyone who says "wait until later."

We're always looking up at others' happiness, forgetting that we ourselves are being envied by someone else. In truth, everyone has their own happiness—it's just that it's often hidden in someone else's eyes. So stop waiting. Use your limited time, limited money, and limited energy to see unlimited scenery.

The Departure: A Trip Ignited by "Inn Photos"

In 2014, I saw photos of a Dali inn on WeChat—facing Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, sunlight streaming through glass into the rooms, the courtyard full of blooming flowers. I had just returned from Taiwan, and Chao advised me to take it slow. That "slow" turned into nearly a year of forgetting.

Then one morning in October, I scrolled through Weibo and saw those inn photos again. At that moment, reason surrendered completely. I called to book a room—the inn was fairly well-known, with limited availability. The 13th happened to have an opening. I placed the order without a second thought and booked flights that same afternoon. From decision to departure: less than 24 hours.

Pre-Trip Planning: Flights and Route

Direct flights from Nanjing to Dali were scarce and expensive. I chose a route via Changsha: - Outbound: Nanjing → Changsha → Dali (two tickets, about 2,000 RMB) - Return: Kunming → Nanjing (two tickets, about 2,000 RMB)

Why Changsha? Simple: first, the food is amazing (stinky tofu, crayfish); second, I wanted to see the legendary Hunan TV building. Pretty impulsive reason, right?

First Stop: Changsha—A Foodie's "Transit Paradise"

After landing at Changsha's Huanghua Airport, we bought bus tickets to the city center at the service counter on the left and headed straight for the Hunan TV building. That day was heavily smoggy, and the building looked older than I'd imagined. But the warmth of the locals left a deep impression. Near the TV station, an auntie chatted with us for a long time, recommended fun places, and specifically warned, "Don't bother with Huogongdian (Fire God Palace)." That sincerity was more valuable than any travel guide.

Taiping Street: A Quaint Food Maze

We took a taxi to Changsha's most bustling Taiping Street (about 25 RMB), and the driver enthusiastically recommended spots along the way. The ancient, picturesque street felt like Suzhou's Guanqian Street—shops lining both sides, snack stalls crammed together.

• Guangtouqiang's (Bald Qiang's) Takoyaki: The uncle running the stall had a memorable look, but the taste was average. Not recommended.
• Tangyou Baba (Glutinous Rice Balls in Syrup): We're half-Wuxi natives, but even we couldn't handle this level of sweetness.
• Li Sijie's Stinky Tofu: The line was huge, but the taste was worth the wait! Sour, spicy, and intensely flavorful—we were huffing, drinking water, and wiping our noses while eating, but couldn't stop.
• Old Changsha Sausage: Long queue again. Chao ate most of it; I only had one bite.
• Wu's Pig Trotters: Featured on Day Day Up or Happy Camp—fragrant, sticky, and springy. Highly recommended.

When we got tired, we ducked into a small café called "Narrow Lane Coffee," ordered two drinks, posted on social media, and Chao played games on his phone. The best thing about independent travel: your time is your own, no tour guide rushing you along.

Second Stop: Dali—A "Snail's Life" by Cangshan and Erhai

Our flight was delayed, and we didn't arrive in Dali until nearly midnight. Luckily, I'd booked a guesthouse near the airport through Ctrip. The owner picked us up in a Toyota. The car turned into an upscale villa complex—this was actually a private villa converted into a guesthouse, with Chinese-style decor, cozy rooms, and complete amenities. Colorful bed linens and thoughtful little sticky notes instantly melted away the travel fatigue.

Dali's First Breakfast: A Stunning "Ersi" (Rice Noodles)

The next morning, we had breakfast on the ground floor of the villa. The hostess warmly greeted us and served a steaming bowl of "ersi" (rice noodles)—with meat, tomatoes, sour, spicy, and fragrant. Having grown up on bland congee and pickled vegetables in Jiangnan, I discovered for the first time that breakfast could be this boldly flavored. That taste is still unforgettable. The best part: this breakfast was included in the room rate (under 200 RMB per night, special price 175 RMB), and airport transfers were free. Incredible value!

About "Linghai Muyue" (Sea-Listening Moon-Gazing Inn): Dream vs. Reality

The core goal of this Dali trip was the inn that sparked my impulsive departure—"Linghai Muyue," located in Taoyuan Village, Xizhou Town. It was indeed as beautiful as a painting: by Cangshan and Erhai, modern and stylish common spaces, lush green landscaping like a small garden. But the price was also like a five-star hotel—no breakfast included, transfers at your own expense (40 kilometers from the airport to the inn cost 190 RMB).

We booked the No. 9 honeymoon suite, which had a lounge chair by the door and a freestanding bathtub in the middle of the room (which I never used once). At night, the waves were loud. Chao joked, "I should have booked the garden-view room in the back—cheaper and quieter." If you're looking for value at this inn, the back rooms are perfectly adequate—you can walk a few steps and still see the sea.

Costume Changes and Lazy Hours at the Inn

One of my favorite travel hobbies: changing outfits and taking photos. Overcast days have their mood; sunny days have their brightness. Chao crouched, lay down, and struck all kinds of awkward poses to photograph me. Hard work!

• The Glass Table Secret: I'd seen photos of other guests and thought there was an infinity pool, but it turned out to be just a platform. Actually, the glass table alone could create a reflection effect—stand behind it, and your image naturally reflects on the glass. My brain wasn't working at the time; looking back, I feel silly.
• The "Ear-Picking" Forced Perspective Shot: Chao played along, and it was hilarious.
• Mickey Mouse Headband: A 29-year-old wearing this? I'm embarrassed to admit it, but who cares—I was happy.

Dali's Temperature Swings and Food

Dali has extreme day-night temperature differences: you need a jacket or even a light coat in the morning and evening, but by noon it's hot enough for tank tops. At the inn, we ordered sour fish soup (a Dali specialty). I loved it, but Chao couldn't get used to it—when it comes to fish soup, he prefers the delicate flavors of Jiangnan. Later we ordered chicken soup and spicy shredded potatoes to suit his taste.

A BBQ Surprise in Taoyuan Village

From the inn, turn left and walk 10-15 minutes to the intersection, then turn right to reach the "Taoyuan Renjia" (Taoyuan People) restaurant. Along the way, we spotted an unassuming BBQ stall. Chao got excited: "Let's order delivery tonight!" Sure enough, after 9 PM, the owner delivered grilled fish and chicken feet—so spicy it made our noses run and eyes water, but incredibly tasty. In this "godforsaken" village, the BBQ prices were surprisingly reasonable, with none of the tourist-trap gouging.

Third Stop: Shuanglang + Xizhou Town—A Scooter Day Trip

We rented an electric scooter (80 RMB for the full day) and became the "Motorcycle Flying Duo." Dali's sky, Erhai's wind, the mountains by the roadside, the freedom in our faces—at this moment, letting your soul roam was more precious than anything.

Shuanglang: Expectation vs. Reality

Shuanglang is the hometown of dancer Yang Liping. From Taoyuan Village, it was a dozen kilometers by scooter, but with all the photo stops and sightseeing, it took over an hour. Shuanglang was bustling, heavily commercialized, but the environment was disappointing: the seaside smelled fishy, seaweed was dirty and messy, the roads were muddy and full of construction pits. The legendary "Haidishenghuo (Sea and Life)" white tables and chairs? Just rusty iron frames, with messy lines of people queuing for photos—you have to admire the photographers who can make this place look like paradise.

Warm Moments in Shuanglang

• Getting Braids: I bought a small sugar figurine and chatted with the young woman running the stall. She said she and her boyfriend had come from another city, renting a place and working—he at a jade shop. She told me stories about group tourists and local merchants, candid and endearing.
• Red Scarves: At noon, school let out, and a few little girls walked by, flashing sweet smiles. One asked how much the braids cost, saying she only wanted the string to tie it herself at home. That innocence warmed my heart.

The "Floral Print Skirt" on the Way Back

On the return trip, I bought a floral print wrap skirt that could also be worn as a tube dress. Locally made, unique—I grabbed it without hesitation.

Summary: What You Need for Dali Isn't a Guidebook, But a Heart That's "On the Road"

This trip had no earth-shattering stories, no romantic encounters, no sudden epiphanies. It was just an escape—"from a place you're tired of, to a place someone else is tired of." But it was precisely this escape that let me hear my own voice again.

A Few Practical Tips:

1. Flights: Direct flights to Dali are scarce and expensive. Transfers (e.g., via Changsha or Kunming) offer better value.
2. Accommodation: Taoyuan Village is great for pure relaxation; Shuanglang is better for photo ops. For value, choose garden-view rooms; sea-view rooms can be noisy at night with the waves.
3. Transportation: Renting an electric scooter is the best way to explore Erhai. Don't forget sunscreen!
4. Food: Dali's ersi (rice noodles) and sour fish soup are worth trying. BBQ stalls might surprise you.
5. Mindset: Don't be fooled by the filters on "Instagram-worthy spots." Lower your expectations, and you'll discover the real beauty.

To close with one line: The world is a book, and those who don't travel read only one page. And Dali is the gentlest chapter in that book.

If you also want to go to Dali, or would like to share your own travel story, feel free to leave a comment.
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