Taking Baby Tongniu to Dali: A Self-Drive Family Trip Around Erhai Lake, Plus Tips for Traveling with a Young Infant

A Romantic Adventure for Brave Parents: Driving Around Erhai Lake with an Eight-Month-Old

When a couple becomes a family of three, the meaning of travel quietly changes. It's no longer about checking in at trendy spots, but about planting a family flag on your baby's map of growing up. In October 2017, we took our eight-month-old daughter, Tongniu, on a flight from Xi'an to Kunming, embarking on a five-day self-drive trip to Dali. This isn't just a travel itinerary — it's a courage guide for all parents hesitating about traveling with a young baby.

Why Yunnan? Why Dali?

Eight months of full-time parenting had transformed me from a working professional into a "home-cultivated immortal" — a stay-at-home mom who'd lost touch with the outside world. Every day was spent with a demanding little one who needed me to smile constantly, while inside I was desperate for an escape. Just then, my husband finished a big project and needed a break. As a "considerate wife," I decided to secretly plan a family trip.

When I checked flight prices, the discounted tickets from Xi'an to Kunming were so cheap that not going would have felt like wasting my husband's money. And since my husband loves driving, we quickly agreed: rent a car, drive to Dali, and see the "sea"!

Preparation Before Departure: Packing List for a Young Baby

Traveling with an eight-month-old is far more complicated than you'd imagine. Here's our essential gear list:

• Carrier car seat: Shipped ahead to our pickup point in Kunming — an absolute must for self-driving
• Baby food: Formula, rice cereal, rice crackers (a lifesaver for soothing)
• Small blanket: For Yunnan's unpredictable weather
• Baby carrier: Frees up your hands and lets Dad help with carrying
• Diapers, wipes: Pack 20% more than you think you'll need
• Sunscreen: Yunnan's UV is intense — don't forget it (I did on the lake day and regretted it terribly)

Day 1: From Chaos to First Glimpse of Erhai Lake

The 3 AM Madness

Our first flight was just after 6 AM, meaning we had to wake up at 3 AM. My husband said he'd just stay awake all night — but he overslept the next morning. If our friend giving us a ride hadn't called at 4 AM asking, "Why aren't you out yet?" we might have slept until noon.

On the way to the airport, we witnessed a nine-car pileup. Cars were scattered across the road with hazard lights flashing. After that, we instinctively slowed down. Getting there on time matters, but safety comes first.

The Battle on the Plane

Before leaving, I'd read tons of tips about flying with babies. Other people's kids supposedly "sleep all the way to the destination." Naively, I thought Tongniu would be the same. Result? She fell asleep right before takeoff after nursing — and woke up as soon as we were airborne! For the next two hours, instead of catching up on sleep, we put on a "life-or-death" performance trying to entertain her. To all child-free people out there: cherish your freedom, and please have pity on the tired-looking man and woman sitting next to you — they're doing their best.

Renting the Car and Our First Meal

We rented a Yeti from Avis, picking it up and dropping it off at Kunming Airport's Terminal 3. Great price, full-to-full fuel policy, and the car was in good shape. After getting the car, we headed to the pickup point for the car seat and baby supplies we'd shipped ahead. Then we searched for a highly-rated Yunnan-style Mile braised chicken rice noodle place. The food was delicious, but my husband didn't eat — he was afraid getting full would make him drowsy, so he just bought two cans of Red Bull. Major respect for that sacrifice!

First Sight of Erhai Lake

The drive from Kunming to Dali took about five hours. Along the way, heavy rain and bright sunshine alternated constantly. Just the sky we saw from the highway was enough to amaze us, coming from a city perpetually shrouded in smog.

When we arrived, the eastern shore of Erhai Lake and the houses along it were bathed in golden sunlight — dazzling yet gentle. At that moment, I couldn't help but think, "People living here must be so happy!" But looking at the distant Cangshan Mountain, I saw residential clusters creeping up from the foothills like a white monster devouring the green slopes, and I felt a pang of concern.

Dinner: A Surprise at Ruifengyuan

After checking into Maisu, we went to a restaurant called Ruifengyuan. Locals hold banquets there, and if you don't book ahead during peak hours, you'll wait forever. We ordered four dishes: stir-fried rice cakes, minced beef with garlic sprouts, small chili potatoes, and fried bean flour.

Highly recommend the fried bean flour — it looked like french fries when it arrived, but biting into it revealed a crispy exterior and a soft, sandy interior with a smooth texture. Light and not greasy. It came with a side of pickled chilies made from small red peppers, garlic sprouts, and ginger — also amazing. The minced beef with garlic sprouts, wrapped in a steamed bun, tasted just like my grandmother's cooking.

Tongniu was restless because of the noisy environment, so we had to pull out our secret weapon: rice crackers. We gave her three pieces (sigh).

Day 2: Warmth and Surprises in Xizhou

The Cold Wind at Caicun Pier

The next day was overcast, so we changed plans and headed to Xizhou and Haishao Park. By the time we left, it was almost noon. Feeding Tongniu and getting myself ready took nearly two hours — I hadn't put on makeup in so long that I'd forgotten the steps.

On the way, we saw a sign for "Caicun Pier" and decided to check it out. But the cold wind hit us hard, making us sneeze. I was wearing my husband's t-shirt under a knit sweater and wished I could curl into a ball. Those girls in dresses — what kind of superhuman strength keeps them smiling for photos in this weather?

Tongniu attracted tons of attention along the way. Every passerby would whisper, "So cute!" or "So adorable!" Who knew having a baby could have this effect?

The "Tiger Head Shoes" Incident in Xizhou

In Xizhou, a smiling elderly woman rushed toward us with surprising speed. She grabbed Tongniu's hand, said she was adorable, and asked if we wanted to buy tiger head shoes. I'd read travel blogs recommending them for babies, so I said I'd take a look. She quickly pulled me to her stall, started picking out shoes, and then — to my shock — began taking Tongniu's shoes off without asking.

She picked a pair, stuffed them into my hands, and asked the price. She said 14. I told my husband to pay, and he reluctantly handed over 20. Then she said, "That's 25. You still owe me 5." Confused, I said, "Grandma, didn't you just say 14?" She magically pulled another pair from under the top layer of her stall, revealing a pair with a sticker reading "Size 14." "I said size 14!"

Really? My husband was annoyed and said, "Forget it. Give me back my 20!" But she wouldn't let go of the money. Finally, she relented: "Fine, I'll give you change. Here's 5 back. Oh, I'm short one yuan — I don't have small change!"

It wasn't about the few extra yuan, but the dishonesty left a bad taste. Still, that's travel — warmth and surprises mixed together.

Hanlin Restaurant and a Kind Shop Owner

We had lunch at Hanlin Restaurant in Sifang Street, ordering silver fish omelet, braised chicken, and cold mixed pea jelly. The silver fish omelet was indeed delicious — hot, golden, and filled with tiny silver fish, not too heavy. The cold pea jelly was also good.

What moved me most happened at a clothing shop. Tongniu was crying inconsolably — probably struggling to poop. The shop owner quickly asked if the baby needed to use the bathroom and offered the sofa in the back of her shop. She said she had a baby too. We politely declined a few times but eventually accepted her kindness. Tongniu had her "big moment" on a stranger's sofa for the first time. The owner did everything to entertain her, and before we left, she said to Tongniu, "Remember Auntie, okay? Come back and see me when you grow up."

Meeting people like this in unfamiliar places — that's the best kind of travel memory.

The Rainy "Fake Photos" at Haishao Park

On the way to Haishao Park, Baidu Maps and Gaode Maps had a fight. Baidu directed us onto a road full of giant puddles and small potholes. We drove for half an hour, passed by two off-road vehicles packed with travel photographers — they looked at us with a mix of pity and amusement. The air around us felt dead, like a sad soundtrack was playing in the background.

When we finally reached Haishao Park, the café was closed and looked abandoned. So we stood in the rain, holding the baby, and took a bunch of "fake photos" that looked happy and smiling but actually felt exhausting and miserable.

Day 3: Sunshine and Regrets Around Erhai Lake

The Blue Sky at Longkan Pier

When Tongniu woke me up in the morning, I saw strong light trying to pierce through the curtains. I pulled them open, and the sky was so blue it almost made me cry. Today, we'd start our lake loop!

First stop: Longkan Pier. The blue sky and white clouds over Erhai Lake were stunning. I couldn't resist posting on WeChat Moments (I usually play it cool and rarely post). After basking in the sun for a while, I felt overwhelmed and went back to the car to reapply sunscreen — only to realize I'd stupidly forgotten it. Luckily, we hadn't gone far, so I went back to get it.

The Perfect Photo Spots on the West Lake Road

Before coming to Dali, I'd scoured the internet for the most beautiful photo spots along the lake road, marking them all on my map. I wanted to capture the last moments of my 28-year-old youth. But as it turned out, chasing that with a baby in tow isn't realistic.

Haixi Water Station: The lake was so blue, and the breeze was so comfortable. But the big gate frame was submerged in water, and with the baby, we couldn't wade through. The water-covered path was thick with moss, making it dangerous to cross. All we could do was drool watching others go down. If you go, bring flip-flops — or better yet, waterproof shoes!

The Tree Lying in the Water: By the time we got there, Tongniu was sleeping like a log. I couldn't bear to wake her, so we had to skip it.

The Wooden Boardwalk Forest: The boardwalk was blocked by a large chain-link fence with a locked gate. A few young people tried to squeeze through. The girl looked like she might make it, but the two chubby guys behind her? No way — and clearly, my husband wouldn't fit either.

The Covered Bridge: A popular spot, but it was surrounded by mud and hard to climb. Underneath the bridge, I met a local boy who was hilarious. He said he was going swimming and told us to close our eyes so we wouldn't see him undress. The kid swam really well!

I refused to give up on getting onto that bridge. I found a small path leading to the other side and discovered a tiny tunnel I could crawl through. I quickly called my husband, who was carrying the baby, to come take photos of me. I felt like the first person in the world to take a photo there — absolutely thrilling.

Just as we were about to leave, I made a major discovery: you don't actually have to climb the bridge. There's a path next to a large rust-red pipe that gradually rises until you're walking right onto the bridge!

Practical Tips for Parents Traveling with a Young Baby

1. Adjust your mindset: Don't expect a perfect itinerary. Traveling with a baby is an adventure in itself. Photos don't matter as much as the experience.

2. Slow down: Plans will change. Adapt your schedule based on your baby's mood. We took three days to loop the lake — it could be done in one day without a baby, but going slow lets you enjoy it.

1. Use your tools: Car seat, baby carrier, rice crackers — these three were our lifesavers. The carrier lets Dad help, and rice crackers are a miracle for calming a fussy baby.

2. Protect yourselves: Yunnan's UV is brutal — don't forget sunscreen. We did, and the back of my neck got painfully red.

3. Be patient: Babies can get cranky in unfamiliar environments. That's normal. When Tongniu was restless during meals, we used rice crackers to soothe her. Don't let crying ruin your mood.

4. Cherish the encounters: The best travel memories aren't always the scenery — it's the people you meet. The shop owner in Xizhou, the kind Japanese grandmother in Bali — these warm moments are more precious than any photo.

Final Thoughts

No matter how high the camera resolution, it can't compare to your own eyes. The air you breathe, the sounds you hear, the people you see, the leaves rustling in the wind — it's all so different from what a photo captures. So yes, you have to go see the world for yourself.

Taking Tongniu to Dali was tiring, and there were plenty of regrets. But when the three of us left those "fake photos" by Erhai Lake, I knew this was the life we wanted. From two to three, every future trip will have this little one by our side.

Congratulations to Tongniu — at eight months old, she planted her first flag on this planet. And we're just getting started.