Tengchong: A Second Trip with Our Mothers | Their Lives Should Be a Wilderness, Too

Later I realized that when they said "I don't like traveling," it was just because they'd been trapped in the role of "mother" for too long.
When the morning mist of Heshun Ancient Town drifted across the fine lines around their eyes, when the steam from Rehai (Hot Sea) blurred their graying hair—
Those two once-beautiful girls finally emerged from the cracks of time to reunite with us in the wild wind of the volcanic crater.

Preface: This Time, We Take Our Mothers to See the World

This is the second trip VV and I have taken with our respective mothers. Our moms are the kind of elderly women who "never spoil the fun"—even though they're in their seventies and eighties, with legs not as steady as before, they always follow the routes we plan with enthusiasm, never complaining of fatigue, never grumbling.

They rarely offer opinions on what to eat, where to stay, or what to do. Occasionally they'll mutter things like "this dish is too spicy," "the morning market is too noisy," or "I don't dare try this," but they never say "this is boring," "this isn't fun," or "let's skip it."

Sometimes I think what matters to them is simply "being together with us."

And what matters to us is being able to walk alongside them, for as long as possible.

Trip Overview & Cost Breakdown

Destination: Tengchong, Yunnan (via Kunming)
Travel Dates: May 1–6, 2025 (6 days)
Cost Per Person: Approximately 6,400 RMB (12,865 RMB total for two)

Expense Breakdown: - Flights: 4,200 RMB - Private tour (car + hotel + partial tickets + insurance): 5,960 RMB - Kunming hotel (points discount of 150 RMB): 105 RMB - Meals: 1,100 RMB - Souvenirs: 1,500 RMB

Layover in Chengdu: An Unexpected "Split"

There are no direct flights from Shanghai to Tengchong; you usually transfer through Chengdu or Kunming. To avoid tiring the elderly ladies too much, we decided to fly to Chengdu first, stay overnight, then fly to Tengchong the next day.

But after VV bought the tickets, the system showed no seats available... After refreshing for ages, she finally found a single ticket for a red-eye flight to Kunming, arriving around the same time as the others the next day. After much hesitation, she placed the order—sorry, Mom.

Kunming Transit Hotel Recommendation: Manju Hotel (Changshui Airport Branch)

Must give five stars! Far exceeded expectations.

I didn't have high hopes for a transit hotel near the airport. But the moment I walked in, I was amazed by how clean it was, and the service was excellent.

The next morning, while I was still asleep, my mom went downstairs for breakfast and wanted to bring me a couple of eggs. The server told her to take the food upstairs and even cooked two bowls of rice noodles for her, saying, "Let your daughter try our noodles." When I accidentally broke a toothbrush cup at checkout, the front desk girl just smiled and said it was fine.

Also, the booking said only one-way airport transfer was included, but it turned out to be free both ways, and the late-night pickup was very responsive.

Rating: ★★★★★

Accommodation in Tengchong

Yunxi Meidu (Inside Heshun Scenic Area)

A beautiful little courtyard in a prime location. A must-stay for dog lovers! Two incredibly friendly big dogs, well-fed and plump by the guests. The landlady was very warm and even braided my hair to match my outfit.

Centrally located in the scenic area, convenient to everywhere. Upon arrival and departure, a young lady helped with luggage using a small electric cart—dragging suitcases over the cobblestone paths is pure torture.

Qianxun Fengqiuhuang Family Suite (with Private Hot Spring)

Not recommended.

Overall okay, but the details were lacking. The four-person room had too little storage space; the table was too small to even spread out takeout. The sink was ridiculously tiny—couldn't fit both our skincare products, let alone makeup. No vanity mirror light, and the electric kettle was placed on a cabinet with no nearby outlet.

The worst part: on the last day, the hot spring water wouldn't heat up even after 10 minutes. We called for help several times, and each time they asked, "Did you turn it on wrong?"—as if we were clueless. Finally, they let us use another room, but it only had a screen window on the first floor facing the garden, and we weren't wearing swimsuits...

In short, never again.

Kunming: The Spring City Blooms Everywhere

Like last time, I forgot to tell my mom what time I'd pick her up and just started packing my bags on my own.

Before the trip, my mom had been sick—long doctor visits, IV drips for about ten days. With the doctor's approval, we decided not to change our plans.

If you don't know whether the accident or tomorrow will come first, just enjoy the present.

VV and her mom left at noon. By the time we got to the airport, they were already eating ice jelly (bingfen) in Chengdu.

Our flight was at 9 PM; we arrived at 6:30, only to be told domestic flights can't check in more than 3 hours early. We tried self-check-in for baggage but failed due to the transfer connection, and it took half an hour to get through manual check-in.

We landed at 12:30 AM. I slept the whole way; my mom watched movies the whole way. Every time I woke up groggy and asked, "Why aren't you sleeping?" she'd say nervously, "This movie is so intense!" I glanced at the screen—Wang Tianfang's Big Scene, isn't that a comedy?

Mom: "Hmph! This is a very tense movie!"

Okay, okay, tense it is. Whatever makes you happy.

At 1 AM, Kunming Airport was packed. The baggage carousel showed arrival gate 7, but gate 7 was closed... After searching, we found it was gate 1. It took until 1:30 to get on the hotel shuttle, and 15 minutes later we checked in.

When my mom tried to connect to WiFi, the password was so long she only saw the first part and exclaimed, "What is this?!"

Hahaha, I laughed so hard.

We slept from 3 AM to 8 AM. My mom woke up early, went downstairs for breakfast, and with "host spirit" brought me rice noodles upstairs. So at 9 AM, I was eating a hot breakfast in my room.

Kunming was in full bloom with jacaranda flowers. I asked my mom if she wanted to visit the old street, but it would take nearly 2 hours round trip by taxi, with only an hour to explore, and we had a flight to catch. She hesitated and declined.

So I guiltlessly continued lying in bed, scrolling through photos, pretending I'd been there.

(Photos above from various platforms; please contact for removal if copyrighted.)

Not going to the old street didn't mean we couldn't wander downstairs. The moment I stepped outside—whether it was the pleasant climate or the good mood—the whole city felt exceptionally comfortable, with a faint sense of vitality stretching out.

I planned to just stroll around, but the hotel had a camping base next door. I dragged my mom along. She complained she wasn't photogenic, didn't dare smile, didn't know where to put her hands. I lent her a bit of my confidence and snapped a few shots: "Look, how beautiful you are."

She looked at the photos with delight: "I look this good?"

Yes, you'll always be the most beautiful mom in my heart.

Before she got sick, she'd walk with my dad every evening for half an hour to an hour. After getting sick, even ten minutes downstairs tired her. Maybe being out on this trip made her temporarily forget her illness—we walked and took photos, climbing up and down. I sent the photos to my dad; he was overjoyed but still reminded me: "Make sure she rests. Take care of your mom."

I know, I know. This time, I'll be the nagging mom.

(As it turned out, I'm not just nagging but also strict. I scolded my mom every day, and she still wouldn't listen—this generation of elderly is too hard to manage!)

At noon, the hotel took us back to the airport on time. At the entrance, she said, "I want to take a photo," and then trotted off on her own—what energy!

Kunming Airport, like the city itself, is full of birdsong and flowers. A bouquet cost 25 RMB, blooming brilliantly. I thought about buying one to take home on the return trip.

No flowers now—now I had to find the trendy milk tea shop. Many people say it's hard to find, but just ask at the information desk after security. Location: Kunming Changshui International Airport, Terminal 1, Floor 3, Zone W03. They specialize in pure tea; the signature Dianhong latte is good, and the "Mei Ren Chao Ren" (sweet-and-sour plum) is worth trying—recommended if there's no long line.

Tengchong: World-Class Tengchong, Peaceful Heshun

Before coming to Tengchong, my impression was limited to autumn ginkgo trees. Only after arriving did I discover it's a dual healing destination of volcanic hot springs and cultural secrets.

If you ask AI what magic this small border town in Yunnan holds, it would say: Tengchong boasts volcanic clusters and geothermal wonders, with 600 years of caravan stories and overseas Chinese culture flowing along its cobblestone paths. In the rainy season, clouds roll like seas; in winter, ginkgo leaves turn golden—it's National Geographic's "Extreme Frontier City."

For us, it's slow, simple, healing—just right.

Tengchong Airport is so small you can see everything at a glance. Before even picking up luggage, I spotted VV and her mom waiting outside. A joyful feeling rippled through the air.

The driver said it had rained heavily at noon, and the sun only came out at 2 PM. The weather was so well-behaved—had to praise it.

Glancing at the map in the car, I saw we were indeed close to "the country of the waist" (Myanmar). But the driver-guide said that's precisely why the border is especially safe. Born in China—how fortunate.

Heshun Ancient Town: Six Hundred Years Frozen in Time

Ticket: 55 RMB/person, valid for 7 days with facial recognition for re-entry.

Heshun Ancient Town was originally called "Yangwendun." Renamed "Heshun" (meaning "river smooth") because the river winds around the village, it later took on the refined meaning "harmony and smoothness." Its history dates back to the Ming Dynasty's Hongwu era, serving as an important post on the Ancient Tea Horse Road and the Southern Silk Road.

A hotel staff member picked up our luggage with a small cart. The view: blue sky, white clouds, green trees, red flowers. The 4 PM sun was no longer harsh. The aunties and mothers were instantly captivated—if they had silk scarves, they'd probably have started dancing right there.

The cobblestone paths stretched upward, making us dizzy. Around a corner, we entered a neat, adorable little courtyard.

We were on the ground floor, no need to carry luggage. A large floor-to-ceiling window faced the courtyard. VV said we looked like we were living in the living room. But there were few guests, so it wasn't noisy.

A golden retriever wagged its tail enthusiastically, running around excitedly. We pulled out snacks, and it followed the scent.

After a short rest, I went crazy with the decorative rope braids VV had made. The landlady saw and had a staff member braid my hair—I, as someone with clumsy hands, was so envious.

We went out around 5 PM. The moment we stepped down the stairs, dark clouds rolled in. Luckily, we'd asked about dinner spots in advance and headed straight to a newly opened restaurant next to the hotel, "Niu Guo" (Beef Pot). Just as we sat down, the rain began to drizzle.

The antique courtyard was filled with blooming bougainvillea, fiery red and stunningly beautiful.

Before the pot arrived, we filled our glasses with wine. A toast to a smooth and圆满 trip! (The two moms could only drink water~)

Internet-addicted elderly ladies, time to eat!

As the name suggests, "Niu Guo" serves beef hot pot. A large pot of beef and offal, 68 RMB per person. The owner promised it would be enough—and indeed, it was so much we couldn't finish.

Unfortunately, we asked for no spice at all, but they couldn't manage it. The owner kept saying, "This isn't spicy," while my mom coughed. In Yunnan, "no spice at all" seems nearly impossible—I suspect even the pots and ladles are infused with chili.

But the owner was very kind. He used beef bone broth to cook a bowl of noodles for my mom, which was delicious and great value.

After eating our fill, the sun peeked out again—this weather really deserves praise!

Cun Clan Ancestral Hall: A Century-Old Blend of Chinese and Western Architecture

There are over a hundred Qing Dynasty courtyard houses here, blending Chinese and Western styles—both the elegance of Huizhou architecture and the brightness of Western design, with a touch of Southeast Asian flair.

A short walk brought us to the Cun Clan Ancestral Hall, one of Heshun's landmark buildings, first built during the Ming Dynasty's Jiajing era. The gate, renovated in 1935, is unique—a typical South Asian style with three Roman-style arched doors, each topped with a triangular peak, very stylish. The materials were reportedly transported from Myanmar by caravan.

The hall is built against a hill, covering 2,222 square meters. Looking out from the gate, clouds rolled and wind blew—a view of rising fortunes. This wasn't just a place for ancestor worship; it once housed a girls' school. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the Cun family produced over 200 scholars, four provincial graduates (juren), and one imperial scholar (jinshi).

But my eyes were already drawn to the jade shops. None were expensive, but I didn't know enough to buy—just looked.

Heshun at Dusk and Night

Around 7 PM, the sun began to set. Every time I visit a place with long daylight hours, it feels like I've stolen extra time.

Since it was still light, we took a post-dinner stroll. The "Heshun Harmony" memorial archway was packed with people, so we squeezed into a corner for a photo.

When we reached the Twin Rainbow Bridge, the brilliant sunset reflected in the small river—breathtakingly beautiful. (I edited the photo, but the background color wasn't altered—it really was that beautiful!)

The gorgeous sunset faded quickly. We rushed over to take a group photo. Before the trip, I'd bookmarked a bunch of "How to Take Life-Filled Photos" and "Travel Girlfriend Poses"... But when we stood there, all I could think of was the peace sign. Next time, I'll practice.

As darkness fell, the streets emptied. Now we could take photos freely.

We wandered into Heshun Alley. Built along the Sanhe River, it consists of nearly 10,000 square meters of ancient buildings, showcasing caravan culture and Yunnan merchant culture, vividly recreating the lifestyle of Heshun people who "went to the barbarian lands" (zou yifang).

What is "zou yifang"? More on that later.

The Great Caravan Museum

Three thousand artifacts and nearly a hundred old photographs tell the history of the Southern Silk Road and the daily life of the great caravans. We browsed casually and ended up in the backyard, where a young woman was brewing tea.

The last rays of sunset faded behind the distant mountains. Heshun's night began with tranquility and peace. Few people walked the cobblestone paths; distant lights twinkled like stars. The evening breeze carried Mayday's songs from a bar. I shouted "Mayday! Mayday!" by the bridge, but the guy didn't even look up.

The TV series wasn't airing then, but now it's all over the place—it's well-made and worth watching.

Volcanoes and Wilderness: A Record of Geothermal Wonders

Waking up in the morning, I pulled back the curtains to find the little courtyard peaceful and beautiful. The dog was watching us from outside. The moms were in the dining room eating a simple but delicious breakfast.

"You're so fat for a reason!!! Don't steal!!! You rebellious dog!!! The plastic bag isn't even off yet!!!"

We walked to the entrance to wait for our driver-guide. The weather was cool, not the scorching summer I'd imagined. The guide said we were about 75 kilometers from Myanmar. I said, "Let's go check it out!" She was shocked: "That's 75 kilometers, not 7.5!"

Tengchong Volcanic Geological Park

One of China's four major volcanic clusters, known as a "natural geological museum." The park contains 97 volcanic cones and several levels of lava platforms, with 25 well-preserved craters and cones.

First, a photo stop. At the entrance was an educational museum—we really tried to learn, even if we couldn't remember it all. At least we were serious about it.

We took a short shuttle to the foot of the mountain, where we could see people climbing the Big Empty Mountain (Da Kong Shan) like ants. We weren't climbing that—we went to Little Empty Mountain (Xiao Kong Shan) instead.

Big Empty Mountain experienced two major eruptions, the first about 360,000 years ago, the second about 250,000 years ago. It's bare, unable to support vegetation. Little Empty Mountain, though also erupted twice, didn't build a higher cone due to less volatile magma, so it looks green.

You can ride horses up the mountain. As someone who was a horsewoman in a past life, I was itching to do it, but I kept muttering "I want to ride a horse" while my body followed everyone to Little Empty Mountain.

Prices: Big Empty Mountain round trip 220 RMB, Little Empty Mountain round trip 180 RMB.

Climbing Little Empty Mountain, we found the crater surrounded by safety barriers, with vegetation covering the bottom and sides. A stone pillar carved with "Little Empty Mountain" in red characters stood at the observation deck, clearly telling tourists: "Come! Take a photo!"

Today's style: dark and mysterious.

After walking the full loop, we rested and bought ice cream. Surprisingly delicious—not too sweet, not too greasy. Deserves an ad spot.

There was supposed to be a hot air balloon at the base of Big Empty Mountain, but two balloons had collided that morning. No one was hurt, but the activity was suspended. Hot air balloons are something I've never successfully tried—bad weather, couldn't get up, activity suspended... something always gets in the way. But I never force it. As I get older, I just go with the flow.

Columnar Jointing: Nature's Geometric Beauty

On the way to the wetland park, we hit traffic. There was an observation deck on the left, and everyone had parked there, causing a bottleneck between large trucks and cars. Many people got out to help direct traffic—it looked difficult.

But eventually, it cleared up. We praised our driver-guide profusely—she'd stopped far away when she saw the big truck, or our large vehicle would never have gotten through.

Nearby was a columnar jointing observation deck. This geological structure forms when a set of closely spaced joints creates regular polygonal columns or columnar arrays, typically found in basalt, formed by cooling and contraction of igneous rock.

As non-geologists, we looked for about two minutes before being drawn to the stalls. There were many "wild" medicinal herbs. We sensibly looked, commented, and didn't buy anything.

Along the way, we also saw some newly planted industrial chili peppers—not for eating, but for making lipstick, painkillers, and even defense products. Amazing—humans are so clever.

At 2 PM, we had lunch at a restaurant featuring wild grilled fish and fried shrimp from Beihai. The fried shrimp were crispy and not greasy, delicious—I could eat a mountain of them as a snack.

Beihai Wetland: A Water Meadow Reflecting the Sky

Tengchong Beihai Wetland Provincial Nature Reserve, one of the first 33 national key wetlands in China in 1994, and the only national wetland reserve in Yunnan.

Ticket: 90 RMB/adult
Opening Hours: 08:30–19:00
Transportation: Bus No. 13, about 20 minutes, around 5 RMB

What can I say... The moment we walked in, the big greedy girls were lured away by freshly baked crispy pastries.

The flaxseed and cashew flavors were clearly better than the original. Four cans for 120 RMB, free shipping. We bought and ate as we went. The owner saw us crunching away happily and even packed a small bag for us to eat on the road. Good grief—we were full before even entering the park!

(This photo costs money! Costs money!! Costs money!!! And it's expensive! I'll edit it myself!)

Beihai Wetland is a barrier lake formed by volcanic eruptions, with "floating blanket" swamp meadows as its biggest feature. The reeds and aquatic plants are densely intertwined, with old grass rotting and new grass growing, eventually forming patches of meadow floating on the water. After staring for a while, it's a bit unsettling.

In the afternoon, it was cloudy, making the colors less vibrant for photos, but perfect for a walk.

Of course, with such a large area, walking half of it is enough; the other half, we took a boat. The plan was to take a boat from Pier 1 to Pier 2, then walk to the exit.

Taking advantage of the empty area, we went crazy with photos. Then people came, and we still went crazy with photos. Two lovely young ladies with a DSLR were snapping away—such talent shouldn't go to waste.

When we got off the boat, the sun came out, so we immediately put on masks and sunglasses. The UV rays here are no joke!

Sun protection is a lifelong lesson for Chinese women. Trust me—sun protection is the most basic anti-aging measure.

Since I had to take care of my mom, I carried her bag. Was there a brick in there??? She kept saying it wasn't heavy and she could do it herself. Later, I found out it contained not just an umbrella, water bottle, and power bank, but also a can of crispy pastries she'd bought—one can is a whole pound!

Walking along the lakeside, there were many water activities. Besides the usual water bikes and rowboats, one thing caught our curiosity—

Zoom in 15 times!

This is... standing on a piece of grass... paddling... a sod?

Hahaha, why does it look so pitiful?

Final Thoughts: Their Lives Should Be a Wilderness, Too

This trip made me realize something: when our mothers said they "don't like traveling," it was probably because they'd been trapped in the role of "mother" for too long.

They're used to taking care of others. They're used to accommodating others. They're used to putting their own needs last. So when we ask them, "Where do you want to go?" they always say, "You decide."

But look at them—when they stand in the wild wind of the volcanic crater, when they laugh like children on the floating meadows of the wetland, when they look at a photo and say with delight, "I look this good?"—

You'll realize they never disliked traveling. They just forgot that they, too, were once girls who wanted to go wherever they pleased and see the world.

So take your mother on a trip. You don't need a perfect itinerary. You don't need a luxury hotel. As long as you're by her side, she's content.

And all we can do is accompany them, bit by bit, to reclaim the time that years have stolen away.

Their lives should be a wilderness, too.