The Dali and Lijiang We Explored Together: Postcards of Happiness | A Road Trip with Besties and Babies

"Don't be afraid — everything is a free verse poem."

Some trips are planned far in advance. Others burst into your life as a delightful surprise. This story belongs to the latter.

A Journey Born from "Serendipity"

It all started with China Southern Airlines' "Serendipity Travel" promotion. My friend Benben had originally planned to take her family to Dali and Lijiang, buying six tickets. But due to a series of mishaps and miscommunications, a few seats ended up empty.

She asked me: "There are empty seats. Want to come along?"

I did some quick mental math — how could I possibly pass up a chance like this? And just like that, our bestie road trip with kids was joyfully assembled.

Our group of high school girlfriends usually get caught up in our own busy lives. After some of us got married and had children, opportunities to travel together became increasingly rare. Even though not everyone could make it this time, and we had two little tagalongs in tow, our excitement was undiminished — finally, we were hitting the road together again!

Meet the crew: Benben, Yang, and their baby Dabao; Wei and her baby Erbao; and me — the self-proclaimed "big baby" and the only single one in the group.

In Lijiang: Seeing the Snow Mountain from a Different Angle

To be honest, I didn't have high expectations of Lijiang before departure. In my imagination, it was crowded streets, cookie-cutter tourist souvenirs, and Instagram hotspots packed with people. If Benben hadn't already arranged the itinerary, Lijiang and Dali would probably never have made it onto my travel list.

But once I actually set foot on this land, my prejudices were completely shattered.

Baisha Ancient Town | The Snow Mountain as Its Backdrop

Accommodation in Lijiang is typically chosen from three ancient towns: Lijiang Old Town, Shuhe Ancient Town, and Baisha Ancient Town. The level of hustle and bustle and commercialization decreases in that order. We chose Baisha — the ancient town closest to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, where you can look up and see the magnificent peak right before your eyes.

Baisha is the least commercialized of Lijiang's three major ancient towns. But tracing back to the Song Dynasty, it was once the capital of the Naxi people and the heart of Lijiang. Even after the passage of time, Baisha still retains the purest essence of Naxi heritage. A few years ago, only local Naxi people lived here. Though it has undergone gradual renovation, it still preserves that rustic charm and leisurely atmosphere.

Upon arriving in Baisha, we dropped off our luggage and immediately spotted the guesthouse owner's Great Pyrenees dog strolling leisurely along the ancient streets. As a huge dog lover, seeing that thick, fluffy coat — I simply couldn't control myself. Neither could the two babies, for that matter.

After settling in, we wandered casually around the town. The streets were lined with distinctive handicraft shops, where you could bargain with the owners if something caught your eye. Baisha's most famous craft is tie-dye (扎染), with an array of tie-dyed clothing and accessories on display. Although you can try the tie-dye process yourself, our lazy group was content just browsing.

As dusk fell, local villagers led their buffalo home. With development, the ancient town is inevitably changing, but thankfully, these changes haven't disrupted the locals' way of life. Seeing the visitors' excitement over the buffalo, the old man just smiled knowingly.

Exhausted, and at coffee enthusiast Yang's strong recommendation, we sat down to rest at a café. Apparently, from the second floor, you could see the Baisha archway and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain? I looked up with anticipation — clouds had covered the mountain.

Well, given my luck with travel, having the snow mountain completely hidden by clouds was something I was used to.

Morning Vigil: Golden Summit at Sunrise

In January, sunrise in Lijiang is around 7:30 AM. Leaving the parents to take care of the babies, I carried my camera alone and walked out to the street, waiting for the golden sunrise over Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

But… clouds once again shrouded the mountain.

My first morning in Baisha, the golden summit plan was a bust.

But I didn't give up.

The next morning, same spot, same me — I finally witnessed the scene that made my heart race. Partially veiled by orange-tinted clouds, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain slowly revealed itself. More magnificent than I had imagined, more mysterious than I had pictured. This early morning, Baisha was shrouded in a thin mist, and under the dawn light, even the empty streets seemed infused with romance.

On the third day, the clouds finally dispersed completely, revealing the resplendent Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Baisha is the ancient town closest to the mountain, and standing here gazing at it, I couldn't help but imagine: in the long river of time, did the Naxi people who once lived here also pause every morning to take in this view before starting their day, content?

The streets were empty, broken only by the occasional crow of a rooster or bark of a dog. It should have been a peaceful scene, but my heart was anything but calm — it was trembling with excitement at the beauty before me.

On the fourth morning, I quietly admired the golden summit from my guesthouse. Actually, my room also had a direct view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. I'd just gone out earlier to photograph the ancient town. Having gotten my fill of photos the day before, today was for pure enjoyment.

Daily Life in Baisha: Freedom and Laziness Are the Real Business

We spent several days in Baisha, mostly driving to nearby attractions. On our last day, we finally had time to properly explore the town itself.

The guesthouse restaurant had a wood-burning stove, radiating warmth against the January chill. After a hearty breakfast, we set out to explore the streets!

When we first arrived in Dali, local friends had told us not to buy souvenirs in heavily commercialized areas like Lijiang Old Town, where prices tend to be inflated. But when it came to Baisha, they gave the thumbs-up. So what were we waiting for? Time to shop!

Let me illustrate Baisha's vibe with an example — the dogs.

In big cities, every time you take a dog out, you have to leash it. But in Baisha, cars can't drive in, there are only a few people on the streets, and half of them are locals. The dogs here are semi-free-range. They're used to staying near their owners' shops, unless a particularly excitable dog needs to be leashed.

The afternoon sunlight gently filtered down. Both people and dogs moved unhurriedly, serene and at ease. Despite the changing times, the people here still embody the spirit of this land.

From the guesthouse's "Fat Girl" (the Great Pyrenees), to Ali's little Lucky (a Pomeranian), the street dog pack, to the café's big Lucky (a Golden Retriever), and the clothing shop's Old English Sheepdog — this dog lover was in heaven! Next time, I'm definitely bringing my own fat Sheepdog to make friends.

Baisha is the ancient town closest to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. On the streets, you can easily capture photos of the ancient town with the snow mountain as a backdrop. This kind of environment is perfect for finding a comfortable spot to sit, sipping a local Yunnan small-grain coffee, and letting your mind wander while gazing at the mountain. There really are so many cafés here.

In traditional education, "free and lazy" would definitely be a negative term. But here, freedom and laziness are exactly what's called for. The café owner isn't selling coffee but is busy making beef jerky. The clothing shop owner doesn't hawk their wares but does live tie-dye demonstrations. And us visitors, after exploring a small part of Baisha, return to our guesthouse, lazily gazing at the peaceful town from the terrace, contentedly savoring this moment of leisure.

Tinghua Valley | A Place to Rediscover Your Inner Girl

No matter how plain our daily lives might be, when traveling with girlfriends, everyone makes an effort to look presentable, determined to leave behind beautiful photos (even if they're slightly deceiving). Although this was a trip with kids and our itinerary was pretty laid-back, we still found a photogenic spot to have some fun — who says a trip with kids can't include gorgeous photos?

At photography enthusiast Yang's suggestion, we went to Tinghua Valley, which supposedly has a Chinese version of Hobbit houses.

The day before, Lijiang was still covered in clouds. People said Lijiang without a clear blue sky seemed to be missing something. As the chosen one with bad luck, I just smiled wryly — I was used to it.

But maybe because I wasn't traveling alone this time, and the positive energy radiating from my girlfriends and the babies counteracted my bad luck debuff. On the day we went to Tinghua Valley, the dark clouds began to disperse, and the long-awaited blue sky appeared!

Entering the park, we first encountered a group of alpacas — but they weren't very cuddly. They got a bit excited seeing the babies, making them unsuitable for photos.

Although the blue sky had emerged, there were still clouds over Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. We believed they would clear later. And that's exactly what happened: Yang and I, with our two cameras, captured joyful moments of our models.

The clouds finally parted, and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain revealed itself. Every time I encounter such magnificent scenery, I get inexplicably emotional. In daily life, all kinds of trivial matters consume our time. How long had it been since we'd dressed up properly and enjoyed being vain together?

Come on, let me take your photos!

Of course, I occasionally made an appearance too — borrowing a tangerine-colored Dabao to brighten up the colors.

Tinghua Valley is essentially a photography base, but don't let those words scare you! With Jade Dragon Snow Mountain as its backdrop and a very spacious area, everything about the layout makes sense. Honestly, I think this is one of the best spots to view Jade Dragon Snow Mountain! And with the large, grassy area, the two babies could run wild without worry. Once they were taken care of, the adults could focus on taking photos.

We spent too much time at the earlier scenes, but I finally reached the Hobbit houses I'd been looking forward to. At the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, a little Hobbit village made you fantasize about living there, rising with the sun and resting with its set. The scene was dreamlike, but it was still missing something — for instance, a cute girl in a white dress. That would be me!

Blending into the scene, perfectly natural. Could this be some kind of mysterious attraction between dwarves?

Dabao was just as excited about the Hobbit houses, but for different reasons — I thought they were beautiful, he thought they were fun. And then he started playing house.

Dabao: "Anyone home? I've brought my mommy to visit!" Erbao: "Come in, come in!"

Traveling with babies is definitely different from traveling with just adults. By noon, we had to leave, even though there was still much of Tinghua Valley left unexplored and unphotographed. Even though we'd brought bread, the babies needed real food and rest.

For the sake of the babies, we had to adjust and compromise on our plans. But bringing them along wasn't just about creating beautiful memories for them — it was also about us adults creating special travel memories amidst their laughter and joy.

Shuhe Ancient Town | Where Tradition Meets Modernity

What's my deepest memory of Shuhe Ancient Town? How sleepy it made us…

Having exhausted ourselves at Tinghua Valley in the morning, our hungry group rushed to nearby Shuhe Ancient Town to find food. We were quite shocked to discover that Shuhe actually charges an entrance fee! It's the only ancient town in the area that does.

…Well, we were already here, and we were really hungry.

Shuhe, called "Shaowo" in the Naxi language, means "village at the foot of the peak." After restoration, the houses and streets here retain the original charm of Naxi culture while adding many distinctive shops and guesthouses.

January is the low season, so when we arrived at Shuhe, the streets were practically deserted. I was quite happy about this, as I'd heard Shuhe was starting to get crowded. Shuhe is a relatively well-restored ancient town, giving me a very fresh and pleasant vibe. From the roadside streams to the delicate flowers and the numerous cafés and Western restaurants, despite maintaining the classic ancient town aesthetic of red wood, green bricks, and cobblestones, it felt much more modern compared to Baisha's rustic tranquility.

After a hearty meal, we wandered casually around town, skipping the popular spots recommended in online guides like Jubao Mountain, Sifang Street, Jiuding Dragon Pool, and Qinglong Bridge. Was it because we're so refined and unconventional? No — because it was nap time.

Dabao and Erbao had been playing hard all morning and couldn't hold on any longer. Wei and Yang each picked up a baby, huffing and puffing as they headed back to the car to let them sleep. This gave us a chance to rest too, slowly driving to our next destination.

Black Dragon Pool Park | Classic and Exquisite, Lijiang from a Different Angle

When we arrived at Black Dragon Pool Park, the two babies were still fast asleep. We had to split up: Wei and Benben, the unlucky ones, stayed in the car with the sleeping babies, while Yang and I went to explore the park.

Holding the sleeping babies, Wei and Benben urged us to take lots of photos — even if they couldn't go, they could learn about the place from our pictures later.

Black Dragon Pool Park, locally known as Dragon King Temple, was once consecrated by two emperors for its "Dragon God." It's a unique park blending Ming and Qing dynasty architecture, built during the Qing Dynasty but incorporating relocated Ming Dynasty structures like the Guangbi Tower, the former government office. Paired with the distant Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, it creates a uniquely beautiful scene.

Online sources mentioned an entrance fee or Old Town maintenance pass, but when we visited, we only needed to show our health code and entered for free.

Lijiang has many ancient towns, and while they all have an old-world feel, each is different. In most cases, Lijiang's "ancientness" carries a rustic, lived-in atmosphere — leisurely and back-to-basics. But Black Dragon Pool's "ancientness" is elegant, with a strong sense of deliberate craftsmanship. Green-tiled roofs, crimson eaves, clear lake waters — all perfectly complemented by the backdrop of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

From the park, you can hike up Elephant Mountain for a panoramic view of Lijiang. I originally wanted to go, but after about five minutes of walking, something felt wrong. My legs were heavy, and my headache was getting worse. Looking at the seemingly endless mountain path and my body, which starts gasping for air after a few extra steps at higher altitudes, I decided to give up.

I must have walked too much today and carried too much equipment. Never mind, I'll try again next time.

Beautiful scenery is my passion and pursuit, but knowing when to compromise allows for more beauty later. Strategic retreat — let's go!

Even without climbing the mountain, the Black Dragon Pool below was beautiful enough.

Qingxi Reservoir | Watching the Sunset from a Stone Bridge Leading to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Anyone who loves photography knows that sunrise and sunset are the most beautiful times of day for taking photos. As we left Black Dragon Pool, dusk was approaching. While Dabao and Erbao were still sleeping, we quickly searched for scenic spots along the way, planning to watch the sunset before dinner.

That's how we found Qingxi Reservoir.

When we arrived, the two babies were in that state between sleeping and waking. Same strategy as before — split up. Time waits for no one, so I grabbed my camera and drone and went in.

Qingxi Reservoir is essentially a local water reservoir with clear water, where swimming and pollution are prohibited. Because of its beautiful environment, it has gradually become a popular spot for locals and tourists to play and take photos. In Lijiang, it's all about finding different places and angles to view Jade Dragon Snow Mountain — and here, the view of the mountain has a unique charm.

As a beginner drone pilot, Qingxi Reservoir was perfect: few people, beautiful scenery, and not many buildings to reduce the risk of crashing. From the aerial perspective, the bridge seemed to lead directly to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

The reservoir is shaped like the Chinese character "日" (sun), with a bridge in the middle connecting the two sides. The route is very simple.

The only problem: all afternoon, a small patch of clouds lingered stubbornly over the summit of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. From Black Dragon Pool to Qingxi Reservoir, I had moved, but that cloud remained steadfast — I wished I could reach out and brush it away.

Besides the stone bridge in the middle, the only notable structure in the reservoir was this pavilion, which was off-limits to visitors.

The sun officially set, leaving behind a patch of orange-red afterglow. At that moment, the cloud over the snow mountain was dyed red — once an obstacle to the view, it transformed, adding depth and layers to the mountain.

It was a sunset I was satisfied with.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain | Climbing Upward, Reaching Above the Sea of Clouds

All our previous Lijiang activities could be summarized as "viewing Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from different places." Today, we were finally going up!

January in Lijiang still carries a chill of changing seasons. This morning, a thin layer of ice had formed on the car windows. Everyone in position — let's go!

The entrance fee for the entire Jade Dragon Snow Mountain scenic area is 100 yuan per person. This can't be (and doesn't need to be) purchased online — you just pay when you enter. The scenic area is divided into several zones, each with different landscapes to see. It's impossible to see everything in one day. We first chose the Glacier Park — basically, the summit climb. This requires taking a cable car through the clouds to an altitude of 4,506 meters, then hiking to the highest accessible point of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain at 4,680 meters.

When you first step out of the cable car, there's a rest hall. At this point, you can already feel the difference from ground level — high altitude is no joke. We were so excited and thrilled! After a round of excitement on the observation platform, we finally started the climb.

But with the children, Wei and Benben realized it seemed unrealistic to take both kids to the summit, as turning back halfway would be even more troublesome. We decided to split into two groups: the four adults would take turns going up the mountain and watching the kids.

Yang and I were the first climbing team. Ready? Snow mountain, here I come!

Even at this high altitude, there were still birds. They weren't afraid of people, occasionally following hikers' footsteps or taking flight.

Before the trip, I had researched altitude sickness online. The highest point of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain hike is 4,680 meters, and I had previously summited Switzerland's Jungfrau at a similar altitude without any problems. So I was confident, thinking the oxygen canister was just a precaution.

Then I discovered — my life today depended on that oxygen canister…

During the climb, you could see the undulating mountains in the distance. My eyes were thrilled by the alpine scenery, but my breathing was heavy… The mountain ranges rose and fell beneath the sea of clouds, with Lijiang faintly visible below. Every time I climbed to a high point and looked back, I couldn't help but marvel: this world really has so many breathtaking landscapes.

Small patches of mist were blown in by the wind, then scattered again, bringing the static mountain scenery to life.

But I have to say… snow mountains and oxygen canisters really do go well together.

On Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, every few steps there were wooden benches for resting. And I made good use of them — stopping every few steps to take a hit of oxygen. Whether it's because I'm getting older or because I was carrying heavy equipment today, something completely unexpected happened during the summit attempt.

Dizziness, rapid heartbeat, heavy legs, difficulty breathing — yes, I had altitude sickness.

Around 4,600 meters, my heart wanted to keep going. The scenery was so beautiful now — the summit must be even more stunning, right? But looking up at the long staircase to the next rest point, I decided to retreat…

Yang still had energy and decided to continue to the summit. I headed back down to the rest hall. Climbing takes time, and descending takes just as long. With my heavy body, I slowly took a different staircase down — since I couldn't reach the summit, I might as well see different scenery!

On the way down, I saw many impressive young children. They looked maybe three or four years old, but with their parents' encouragement, they were huffing and puffing their way up.

When I finally made it back to the rest hall, I was completely wiped out. I took over watching Dabao and Erbao from Wei and Benben. Photos and messages kept coming in from those who had reached the summit. In the end, only three babies didn't make it to the top today: Dabao, Erbao, and me…

Although I didn't reach the highest point at 4,680 meters, I still saw so many magnificent landscapes during my attempt. That was enough! But next time I come, I'll be better prepared and challenge it again!

Blue Moon Valley | Dubbed "Little Jiuzhaigou," But It Doesn't Accept the Comparison

Before going to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, we knew we couldn't cover the entire scenic area in one day. Besides Glacier Park, there were also Blue Moon Valley, Yak Meadow, and Spruce Meadow. Since we climbed in two shifts, it was already past 4 PM when we took the cable car down from Glacier Park. Only Blue Moon Valley, which doesn't require a cable car, was barely within reach.

But a not-so-unexpected surprise occurred again: Dabao and Erbao had run out of energy on the cable car ride down and were fast asleep in their mothers' arms. Yang was also a bit tired and planned to go back to the car with them.

The babies needed to sleep, and it wasn't mealtime yet. Since I had free time anyway, I decided to go check out Blue Moon Valley on my own — at least it wouldn't be a wasted trip.

From Glacier Park to Blue Moon Valley, you need to take the scenic area's shuttle bus. By the time I reached Blue Moon Valley, it was already past 5 PM. Rushing frantically, I arrived at the lake and was stunned!

The scenery was beautiful, but it didn't have that dreamy, shimmering, sparkling effect you see in online photos! Many places look especially beautiful at sunset, but not Blue Moon Valley! Because it's surrounded by mountains, the light inside the valley becomes insufficient after about 4 PM.

Blue Moon Valley gets its name because it resembles a blue crescent moon embedded at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It's been called "Little Jiuzhaigou." But every place has its own character. Blue Moon Valley, as part of the local sacred mountain, is magnificent and moving — I don't think it would accept being called "Little Something."

Due to the terrain, the river within Blue Moon Valley forms four bodies of water: Jade Liquid Lake, Blue Moon Lake, Mirror Pool Lake, and Listening to Waves Lake. But they're actually connected, so you just follow the path as you explore. However, the scenic area starts clearing people out around 6 PM, and I clearly didn't have enough time to see everything. Luckily, I brought my drone — even if I couldn't walk the whole area, it could.

In Dali: Seeing Erhai Lake from a Different Angle

Heading south from Lijiang, we arrived in Dali. If Lijiang was about "viewing Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from different places," then Dali was about "viewing Erhai Lake from different places" — and we were equally amazed each time.

Panxi Village | Romantic and Fresh

Panxi Village is a small settlement by Erhai Lake, known for its romantic and fresh vibe. The Erhai here is gentle and serene. We took many photos here — the two babies running and jumping along the shore, while the adults busily captured every beautiful moment.

Xiaoputuo Island | Mysterious and Alluring

Xiaoputuo is a small island in Erhai Lake, with a temple on it. Viewed from the shore, Xiaoputuo appears mysterious and alluring against the backdrop of Erhai. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, it was close to evening and the light wasn't ideal, but we could still feel its charm.

Erhai Lake Itself | Seasonal Guests — Seagulls

Erhai Lake doesn't care what we think of it; it's busy hosting its many seasonal guests — seagulls. Every winter, flocks of seagulls fly from Siberia to Erhai Lake for the winter, becoming a unique scenic attraction here.

We fed the seagulls by Erhai Lake, and the two babies were incredibly excited. The seagulls weren't afraid of people either, circling around us and snatching up breadcrumbs. At that moment, everyone was laughing like children.

In Closing: Postcards of Happiness

Looking back on this journey, my mind is filled with images of Dali and Lijiang — scenes full of memories and stories. I'm afraid that photos alone might not be enough to remind forgetful me. But as long as I draw them, the feelings and thoughts of those moments have a vessel — postcards carrying our memories.

A Few Thoughts on Traveling with Kids:

1. Adjust your mindset: Traveling with kids is definitely different from traveling with just adults. You need to make adjustments and compromises for the babies, but this is also another kind of beauty — creating special travel memories amidst their laughter and joy.

2. Divide and conquer: When the babies need rest, split into groups. Some people stay with the kids while others explore. This way, you don't sacrifice sightseeing, and the babies get their rest.

3. Choose suitable locations: Places like Tinghua Valley, with large open spaces and lawns, are especially good for traveling with kids. The babies can run wild, and the adults can take photos in peace.

4. Prepare for altitude sickness: If you plan to visit high-altitude areas like Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, be sure to prepare for altitude sickness. Oxygen canisters, medication, and plenty of water are essential.

Some Practical Tips for Lijiang and Dali:

• Accommodation choices: Lijiang's three ancient towns each have their own character. Lijiang Old Town is the most lively, Shuhe Ancient Town is the most artistic, and Baisha Ancient Town is the most rustic. Choose according to your preference.
• Souvenir shopping: Don't buy souvenirs in heavily commercialized areas, where prices tend to be higher. Baisha Ancient Town is a good choice.
• Ticket information: Shuhe Ancient Town requires an entrance fee. Black Dragon Pool Park is currently free (just show your health code). Jade Dragon Snow Mountain costs 100 yuan.
• Best photo times: Sunrise and sunset are the best times for photography. For Blue Moon Valley, it's best to arrive before 4 PM, as the light becomes insufficient afterward.

Finally, on the Meaning of Travel:

This trip taught me that some places matter less than who you go with. Traveling with my girlfriends, bringing the babies along, watching the snow mountains in Lijiang, gazing at Erhai Lake in Dali — every moment was a postcard of happiness.

Don't be afraid — everything is a free verse poem.

Destination: Yunnan Travel Dates: January 20, 2021 · 7 days Average Cost per Person: Approximately 3,000 yuan Travel Companions: Friends (besties with kids road trip)