The Wind from Dianchi Lake, Blowing Through the End of 2025

Prologue: A Belated Encounter

Some cities you pass through a thousand times without ever truly knowing them. For me, Kunming was exactly that kind of place.

How many times had I looked down on this red earth from a plane flying to Lijiang or Dali? How many times had I rushed through the train station, switching platforms for the next destination, never once thinking to stop and properly see this city known as the "Spring City"? It wasn't until the end of 2025, as the New Year's bells were about to ring, that we finally decided: no more just passing through.

Four days and three nights — not long, not short. But enough time to feel the evening breeze off Dianchi Lake, watch the graceful dance of black-headed gulls, taste authentic Yunnan cuisine, and wander through a bustling farmers' market. In the warm winter sun of the Spring City, we said a gentle goodbye to the old year and quietly waited for the new one to arrive.

The Hesitation and Preparation Before Departure

A three-day New Year's break — where to go? This question had become an annual ritual. After weighing time, geography, and weather, we finally settled on that "familiar yet unfamiliar" city — Kunming. Three days felt too tight, so we decided to take one day off in advance, leaving on December 31st to ring in the New Year in Kunming!

After booking the train tickets, the real challenge began — finding a hotel. It wasn't until I opened the booking app that I realized we knew almost nothing about Kunming. It was like a familiar stranger: you know its name, you've heard its stories, but you've never truly stepped into its life.

After scrolling through countless travel diaries and guides on Mafengwo, Xiaohongshu, and Ctrip, I finally got a handle on Kunming's attraction layout. The city's sights mainly fall into two areas: the city center around Kunming Station, including Kunming Old Street, Cuihu Park, Yunnan University, and the Yunnan Military Academy; and the area around Dianchi Lake, with Xishan Mountain, Daguan Park, Haigang Dam, Yunnan Nationalities Village, and Luoyuhe Wetland Park scattered along the lakeshore.

After a day of sorting and checking the weather forecast, our initial itinerary looked like this:

• Day 1: Arrive at noon in Kunming, Luoyuhe Wetland Park, Haiyan Village
• Day 2: Haihong Wetland Park, Dounan Flower Market
• Day 3: Haigang Dam, Yu Garden, wander through Old Street
• Day 4: Donghua Farmers' Market, head home

But as always, plans are made to be broken. The actual trip turned out completely different.

Day 1: Luoyuhe — A Sunset Serendipity with Crystal Boats

Arriving in Kunming, Checking into Dreamscape·Wangjiao

The train pulled into Kunming Station right on time. Exiting the north exit, we hailed a taxi straight to our booked hotel, Dreamscape·Wangjiao (Mengjing Wangjiao). A 20-minute ride, 29 yuan — cheaper than I'd expected. The hotel was in Xigong Pier, just over a 10-minute walk from Haigang Dam, and 140 meters from Exit A of Yinghai Road Station on Metro Line 5. The convenience was a pleasant surprise.

The room wasn't large, but the decor was right up my alley. Warm color schemes, cozy furnishings, and a full-length mirror by the door that any woman would love. The central air conditioning was comfortable, the shower had plenty of hot water, and at 390 yuan including breakfast, it was great value for money.

Led Astray by the Navigation App

Originally, we'd planned to visit Haiyan Village at noon, spend two hours there, then walk to Luoyuhe Wetland Park for sunset. But with time tight, we decided to skip Haiyan Village and focus on Luoyuhe.

Baidu Maps recommended taking the Dianchi Greenway Special Bus or the K31 bus. Before leaving, I casually asked the front desk staff, and the ladies told me, "The Dianchi Greenway Special Bus only runs on weekends. Today's Wednesday — there's no such bus." The navigation app hadn't mentioned that!

Fine. Plan B. The map suggested taking Bus 106 to Xingshi Road North Station, then transferring to the K31. The first leg was short, so we took a taxi for 8 yuan and arrived at the stop at 12:30. Then... looking more closely, the K31 bus only ran about once every two hours. The next one wasn't until 1:30 PM! What a trap.

In the end, we just took a taxi. A 40-minute ride, over 50 yuan, smooth traffic all the way.

The Water Forest: Gliding on a Crystal Boat

Entering through the main gate of Luoyuhe Wetland Park, there was a food street on the left. Nice atmosphere, plenty of choices: crossing-the-bridge rice noodles (guoqiao mixian), small-pot rice noodles (xiaoguo mixian), roasted potatoes, pea jelly, grilled meat... you name it. We picked a random noodle shop, 14 yuan a bowl, generous portions. Sitting there eating slowly, wind chimes hung from a big tree in the back yard, tinkling pleasantly in the breeze.

After lunch, we headed straight for the water forest to rent a crystal boat. A "crystal boat" is basically a transparent little plastic boat, 80 yuan for an hour, seating two adults. If you bring a child, it's 100 yuan.

As the oar cut through the water and we glided into the heart of the metasequoia forest, I finally understood how light and graceful the phrase "floating on water" could be. The little boat wove nimbly between the trees, with beautiful scenery in every direction. By late December, the red leaves were already starting to yellow, but the upper branches still glowed with color under the sunlight. If we'd come in early December, it must have been even more stunning.

An hour passed like a moment. By the time we came out, it was 3:30 PM, and the park was noticeably more crowded.

Sunset by the Sandy Shore

We followed the crowd toward the beach area, about a kilometer's walk, stopping and starting to take photos along the way. With the sun and the scenery working their magic, I felt like I'd leveled up a few notches in the looks department — give today's personal photographer a raise!

As we reached the beach, we heard the seagulls before we saw them. I switched from model back to photographer, starting to capture these little creatures fluttering through the air.

By 5 PM, the beach was getting packed. I quickly found a spot and planted myself there, using my phone to record the entire sunset.

Beautiful. Just beautiful. This sunset was absolutely stunning.

At 6:30 PM, the sun dipped below the horizon. Darkness crept in, the seagulls flew away, and the crowd began to disperse.

The Taxi Nightmare

Every guide I'd read warned that getting a taxi back after sunset was a nightmare. I didn't believe it. Then I tried. I cycled through every ride-hailing app, and none of them could find a car. Everyone around me was doing the same, heads buried in their phones.

Then a few cars pulled up — probably local villagers, offering rides for 10 yuan per person to Metro Line 1 or Line 4. We needed Line 5, but they said it was too far. Looking at Kunming's metro map, taking Line 1 or Line 4 back to the hotel would mean a huge detour, so we decided to wait.

We waited nearly an hour. The crowd around us thinned out. Remembering a tip from a guide that said "if you can't get a taxi, just walk forward," we did exactly that. After walking about a kilometer, we came to a fork in the road, and those same villagers showed up again. We asked: 60 yuan to Line 5, 80 yuan to the hotel. More expensive than the apps, but we had no choice.

80 yuan back to the hotel, a 50-minute drive. We finally arrived at 9:30 PM.

Back in the room, we pulled out the Kunming metro map and did the math: actually, taking the villager's car to Line 1 at the park entrance, then transferring to Line 5, would have worked fine and wasn't really a detour. Chatting with the driver, he told us the K31 bus only ran every two hours, so waiting for it was hopeless. Tonight alone, he'd made four trips from the park entrance to Line 1, four passengers each time, 10 yuan per person, about 10 minutes per trip — good money. The trip he gave us was his last run of the night, since there were hardly any people left. Too far for his liking.

Day 2: Yu Garden, Dounan, and a Night of Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles

Yu Garden: A Private Garden Blending East and West

Originally, today's plan was to visit Haiyan Village in the morning, Haihong Wetland Park at noon, and Dounan Flower Market in the evening. But after yesterday's experience, we decisively revised the itinerary: Yu Garden → Dounan Wetland Park → Dounan Flower Market.

With a less packed schedule, we slept in, not getting up until 9:30. The hotel's breakfast hours were very considerate — from 7 to 11 AM, perfect for late risers. Both Chinese and Western options were available, including cooked rice noodles, shredded pork noodles, and regular noodles. Not a huge selection, but enough to fill you up.

We left at 11 AM for Yu Garden. I chose this spot because of a travel diary that recommended the Chongjiu Gate for photo ops. Yu Garden is located in the western suburbs of Kunming, the southern section of Daguan Park — a private garden blending Chinese and Western architectural styles. It was built in 1927 by Yu Enxi (Harlem Yu's grandfather), who was known as "the first person to machine-produce cigarettes in Yunnan" and also served as mayor of Kunming.

The garden was quiet and sparsely populated, but the winter scenery was pretty ordinary — a lotus pond full of withered leaves, nothing too impressive. There was a small patch of metasequoia trees, though, with little wooden birdhouses tied to the branches, which was quite charming. We happened upon a squirrel sunbathing by the path, and some winter cherry blossoms in full bloom — pleasant surprises.

The Chongjiu Corridor was the main reason I'd come for photos, but no matter how I tried, I couldn't get the shot I wanted. Oh well, good enough.

Dounan Wetland Park: Wrong Direction

Leaving Yu Garden, we followed the navigation to take Metro Line 5 to the terminal at Baofeng Station, then took a taxi 7.8 kilometers to Dounan Wetland Park. There were plenty of food stalls at the entrance, so we grabbed a quick lunch.

The wetland park was huge — you could rent a bike, but we chose to walk. Maybe it was the comparison with yesterday's Luoyuhe, but the scenery here didn't excite us much. After a quick stroll, we decided to head to Dounan Flower Market.

From the wetland park to the flower market was only about 2 kilometers, a 10-minute taxi ride. Once in the car, I asked the driver, "Is Dounan Wetland Park really that ordinary?" The driver, a middle-aged woman, said, "You didn't go far enough in. Walk another kilometer or so, and you'll reach the beach — it's really beautiful there!"

So we hadn't gone deep enough. Didn't do my homework thoroughly enough.

Dounan Flower Market: Flowers Sold Like Cabbage

I'd been looking forward to Dounan Flower Market for ages. Today, I decided to just look, not buy — feast my eyes. We arrived at 5 PM. The flowers and the crowds were both overwhelming. Entering through Gate 1, we were greeted by a sea of blossoms. Absolutely gorgeous. I'm convinced no woman can resist the pull of flowers.

But maybe it was the season, because the prices didn't seem that cheap. Dyed wax plum blossoms, "colorful gourds" (20-40 yuan each, said to bring wealth and good fortune), Buddha's hand citron (was this a flower or a vegetable?), red holly berries (a popular Chinese New Year decoration), dried-flower photo frames... the variety was endless.

The second floor was mainly succulents and decorative items. The succulents were adorable. Looking down from the second floor, the main hall was quite a spectacle.

At 6:30 PM, as we were about to leave, I noticed that most of the retail flower stalls on the first floor had already packed up. Bundles of fresh flowers were being laid out, and it really did start to look like "flowers sold like cabbage."

The Ritual of Crossing-the-Bridge Rice Noodles

Leaving the flower market, my husband said he wanted to try authentic Yunnan crossing-the-bridge rice noodles. After some comparison, we picked "Shangzuo Crossing-the-Bridge Rice Noodles" (Shangzuo Guoqiao Mixian) on Wuyi Road, in the Shuncheng Shopping Center. The flower market exit was right at Jingui Street·Dounan Flower Market Station, Exit B on Metro Line 4. Line 4 to Line 3, 14 stops, about 30 minutes to Wuyi Road.

Stepping out of the metro station, Wuyi Road was lively, with a real New Year's vibe. Even after 7 PM, the Shuncheng Shopping Center was packed, with long lines outside every restaurant. We took a number — 20 groups ahead of us. We waited about 40 minutes before getting a table.

We ordered the 68-yuan crossing-the-bridge rice noodle set meal, which came with a portion of steam pot chicken (qiguo ji), signature ham pastry, and Pu'er tea jelly. We also ordered separately: Dali milk fan (Dali rushan), old-style braised tofu, and flaky stuffed bun (posu bao).

The broth for the crossing-the-bridge noodles was rich and savory, the ingredients fresh. The steam pot chicken was tender and juicy, the broth clear and flavorful. The Yunnan ham pastry had layers of flaky crust, with a sweet-and-salty filling of Xuanwei ham. The Dali milk fan was crispy and sweet, but a bit greasy after a couple of pieces. The flaky stuffed bun had a soft, flaky exterior and a filling that balanced savory and sweet — absolutely delicious.

The only downside was the seating — too cramped, with tables too close together. Not the best experience.

Day 3: Haigang Dam and a Slow Day on Old Street

Haigang Dam: A Morning Date with the Black-Headed Gulls

According to the guides, the best time to see the seagulls at Haigang Dam is before 10 AM, when there are fewer people and more birds. We left at 8:30, walking from the hotel along Yinghai Road, reaching the pier in about 10 minutes.

Along the way, vendors were selling bread for feeding the gulls — 5 yuan a bag, 10 yuan for three. The hotel had provided two small bags of gull feed for free, and we bought one bag of bread.

But when we reached the water's edge, what we saw was lots of people and very few gulls. It wasn't even 9 AM yet. Where were the birds? Had the guides been wrong?

We walked along the dam. After a short distance, a flock of gulls flew in from afar. The crowd on the dam burst into excitement, pressing against the railing — some feeding, some taking photos. What a commotion.

The gulls played in this spot for a while, then suddenly took off again. We kept walking, and soon another flock flew in, and the crowd started another round of feeding and photographing. After a few cycles, the gulls were gone for good.

Along the shore, there were people with cameras offering to take photos — 20 yuan for a retouched picture, 15 yuan for the original. They claimed they could capture shots of you getting up close with the gulls. If you wanted, it might be worth hiring one.

By the time the gulls had left, it was nearly 10 AM. We headed back. Plenty of tourists were still streaming toward the dam, all asking the same question: "Where are the seagulls?" I wanted to tell them, "You're too late."

Switching Hotels, Checking into Faustiano

We went back to the hotel for breakfast, checked out, and took a taxi to our next accommodation — Faustiano Yunnan Hotel (Kunming Railway Station branch). The hotel was near Kunming Station, about a 10-minute walk. On the way there, I noticed that the entire area was basically a hotel cluster — hotels every 10 meters or so, with the Atour Hotel across the street.

The room had a modern decor and was very quiet. The price on Meituan was much cheaper than on Ctrip — 370 yuan including breakfast, good value. The location was also convenient: about 700 meters from Exit A of Huancheng South Road Station on Metro Line 2.

Kunming Old Street: The "Paper-Thin Building" and Tea by the Fire

After checking in, we started the main agenda for today — Kunming Old Street. First stop: the "Paper-Thin Building," officially known as the "Wine Glass Building" or "Moon-Facing Building." Built in 1946 to commemorate victory in the War of Resistance Against Japan, these two symmetrical curved buildings look paper-thin from the side and like wine glasses from the front, symbolizing "double cups celebrating victory."

There were plenty of people in front of the Paper-Thin Building, but modern phones are so powerful that you can use AI to erase the surrounding crowd in post-processing. The first floor now houses various shops and a wall with the trendy "Kunming" sign in large letters — more queues for photos.

We wandered aimlessly through the old streets. I spotted a wall covered in bougainvillea — so beautiful! I couldn't resist touching it. Turned out to be fake flowers. We came across a flower-adorned storefront with a long line outside — it was the Jiahua Flower Cake Shop. The freshly baked flower cakes (xianhua bing) had a rich aroma and a crispy texture. Since we'd stumbled upon it, we decided to buy some. Besides flower cakes, the shop also had various exquisite pastries. The little Yunnan ham cakes were incredibly delicious.

Turning a corner, we saw a woman performing on a second-floor balcony, surrounded by a noisy crowd. Passing by a floral wall, I couldn't help but check — all real flowers. Truly the City of Flowers — extravagant!

Coming out of the old street, we intended to head to Cuihu Park and Wenlin Street, but we took a wrong turn. At an intersection, we met a fruit vendor pushing a cart. Blueberries were 50 yuan per kilogram — quite large and very cheap. We bought half a kilo. The vendor called us back to recommend "red ginseng fruit" (hongshen guo): "You've definitely never tried this. It's also called spider fruit. Sweet, only found in Yunnan." I tried one — it was indeed sweet, crunchy, and sandy-textured. I'd never seen anything like it. 32 yuan per kilogram — we bought half a kilo.

We came across another "Kunming" photo wall. There was a casual coffee shop by the roadside, and suddenly I didn't feel like going to Cuihu Park anymore. We decided to stop, order some milk tea, and do a "tea by the fire" session (weilu zhucha), soaking up the sun — much more relaxing.

We sat there until 5:30 PM when the sun set, then reluctantly got up to have dinner with my niece who lives in Kunming.

Day 4: The Earthy Charm of Donghua Farmers' Market

Our train back to Liupanshui was at 12:45 PM. We decided to spend the morning exploring the everyday life of Kunming people — Donghua Farmers' Market.

We got up at 8:30 and went down for breakfast. The first-floor dining hall was surprisingly nice, with a星级 hotel vibe. The breakfast selection was quite varied, including matcha mousse cake and cheese bread — both my favorites.

After breakfast, we headed to Donghua Farmers' Market. Metro Line 2 to Line 5 to Line 4, five stops total, about 30 minutes. Coming out of Exit C at Beilong Road Station, the market was right there.

Donghua Farmers' Market is the largest farmers' market in the main city area. Items have clear price tags, and the value is good. By 10 AM, the place was already packed. The first thing I saw at the entrance was actually a Guiyang crispy pork shop (Guiyang cuishao dian). The market was very clean and truly enormous, selling everything you could imagine — it made your mouth water.

The little corn was delicious — sweet and chewy. My favorite section was still the fruit area: blueberries, cherries, strawberries... so tempting. The blueberries were more expensive than yesterday's street price but cheaper than our local fruit stalls. The cherries were great value. There were many varieties of strawberries, all quite tasty.

I found the red ginseng fruit from yesterday — only one stall had it. We bought strawberries, cherries, and blueberries, plus a grilled fish for 20 yuan and some little corn to eat on the train. We left Kunming feeling satisfied.

Goodbye, Kunming.

Epilogue: The Best Scenery Is Always on the Road

Four days, one city, over a thousand photos, and countless "first times." This trip gave us our first real taste of Kunming's winter: the wind off Dianchi Lake, the black-headed gulls from Siberia, the sunset at Luoyuhe, and the flavors of Yunnan cuisine.

I love traveling, love stepping into a completely unfamiliar city and slowly soaking it in. Some places you visit, and a part of you stays there forever. And in return, they bring their light and atmosphere into your heart.

The best scenery is always on the road, and around the next corner.

Practical Tips

1. Accommodation: Staying near Kunming Station is the most convenient. Whether heading to Old Street or Dianchi Lake, you can get there by metro. Kunming has six metro lines. To enter and exit, just scan a QR code (download the ride code applet on WeChat) — no need to buy separate tickets. Very convenient.

2. Getting to Luoyuhe: Take Metro Line 1 or Line 4 to the terminal, then take a taxi. It's both convenient and affordable. When returning to the city after sunset, either book a car in advance or take a villager's car to Metro Line 1 or Line 4 and transfer. On regular days, getting a taxi isn't hard, but on weekends and holidays the crowds are huge — try to avoid peak times.

3. Luoyuhe Tips: Highly recommend it for sunset viewing, and the crystal boat experience is worth trying. Allow plenty of time, especially if you like photography — there are photo-worthy spots everywhere. But make sure to go on a sunny day. All the beauty comes from the sun's boost. If the weather is bad, don't bother — you'll be disappointed.

4. Seeing the Gulls at Haigang Dam: The best time is before 10 AM, when there are fewer people and more birds. After 10 AM, the gulls are mostly gone.

5. Dounan Flower Market: Go in the evening for the best experience — you'll see the spectacular sight of flowers "sold like cabbage." Take Metro Line 4 to Jingui Street·Dounan Flower Market Station, Exit B.