Three Years Later, I Finally Fulfilled My Dream by Erhai Lake – A Complete 6-Day In-Depth Guide to Dali and Lijiang

Three years ago, I was on my graduation trip, and our guide was a young man working part-time as a tour leader. He said earnestly, "Erhai Lake is truly worth visiting. Sitting by the lake, watching the Cangshan Mountains—there's no way to describe how incredible it feels." That sentence planted a seed deep in my heart. Three years later, I finally stood by the shores of Erhai, watching the Cangshan Mountains reflect in the turquoise water, and only then did I understand the light I had seen in his eyes.

This journey took me through Kunming, Dali, and Lijiang. In six days, I packed all the tenderness and grandeur of Yunnan into my memories. If you're planning to go, save this guide.

Before You Go: What You Absolutely Need to Know

🌤️ Weather and What to Wear

After the Qingming Festival (early April), temperatures in Yunnan range from 7°C to 23°C (45°F to 73°F), with enormous温差 between day and night. During the day, it's warm enough for short sleeves and showing a little collarbone; at night, you'll need a jacket. Pack mainly early-summer clothing, plus one or two jackets. Bring two pairs of comfortable shoes—the cobblestone streets and steep slopes in Dali and Lijiang will make you question your life choices. If you must wear heels, keep them low.

🧴 Essential Items

• Sunscreen: The UV rays in Yunnan are so intense you can get sunburned without even feeling hot. High-SPF sunscreen is a lifesaver.
• Sunglasses, face mask: When cycling around the lake, the wind and dust are relentless. A mask keeps your hair (and face) intact.
• Hydrating face masks: The dryness is beyond imagination. One mask per day is the bare minimum.
• Comfortable shoes: More important than any makeup product.

Transportation: How to Get Around on a Budget

My Route

• Shanghai → Kunming: Flight, about 3.5 hours (I chose Spring Airlines—cheap but the experience was average)
• Kunming → Dali: Train, about 7 hours (overnight train, saved one night of accommodation)
• Dali → Lijiang: Bus, about 2.5 hours, 79 yuan per person
• Lijiang → Kunming: Train, about 8 hours (also an overnight train, 150 yuan per person)
• Kunming → Shanghai: Flight, about 3.5 hours, 106 yuan per person

Money-Saving Tips

Taking overnight trains saves both time and accommodation costs—highly recommended. Buses from Dali to Lijiang run every hour, and you can buy tickets in advance at the Shuanglang Bus Station. If you're staying by Erhai Lake, it's about a 10-minute drive to the station; taxis or ride-sharing are convenient.

For those with deeper pockets: Direct flights to Dali or Lijiang are fewer and more expensive, but they save you the hassle of transfers.

Accommodation: Promise Me You'll Stay in a Lake-View Room at Least Once

Dali: Two Inns, Two Experiences

🏡 Taoyuan Renjia Lake View Resort (Five-Star Recommendation) Located in Taoyuan Village near Butterfly Spring, nestled against the Cangshan Mountains and beside Erhai Lake. Built in Bai ethnic architectural style, with a large terrace half-suspended over the water, offering an open view of the lake and a solitary boat—perfect for watching the sunrise. The common area lets you lie down and gaze at the lake, the courtyard is filled with charming plants and flowers, and you can book the inn's photographer for a free photoshoot.

🏡 Shuanglang Nuan Nuan Inn Located in Dajian Village, with a trendy, minimalist style perfect for young travelers and backpackers. Perched halfway up a hill, you'll need to climb 66 steps to reach it, but the elevated position offers a panoramic view of Erhai Lake. It's close to popular Instagram spots like Haidi and Bandao 63, and Shuanglang comes alive at night.

Tip: If you're staying two nights, spend one in quiet Xizhou (like Taoyuan Renjia) and one in lively Shuanglang.

Lijiang: Great Value

🏡 Dream Journey View Inn At the north gate of Lijiang Old Town, rooms start at just over 100 yuan. Run by a group of young people, the common area and rooftop are perfect for sunbathing, reading, daydreaming, or chatting with travelers from all over. The rooftop offers an excellent vantage point for capturing the old town from above.

Cycling and Ride-Sharing: The Right Way to Explore Erhai Lake

🛵 Electric Scooters

These are everywhere in Dali. Rent one for about 50 yuan per day, with a range of about 60 kilometers (37 miles). Return it by 8–9 PM. They come with a lock, so you don't have to worry about theft while taking photos—the only thing you might "crash into" is another scooter of the same model. Four-wheeled modified cars or regular cars are also available, starting at 100 yuan.

🚗 Ride-Sharing Price Guide

• Dali Train Station → Shuanglang/Xizhou: about 20 yuan
• Xizhou → Shuanglang: about 80 yuan (ask around near your inn)

Full 6-Day Itinerary

Day 1: First Impressions of Kunming – Haigeng Park, Dianchi Lake, Yunnan Ethnic Village

My flight was at 7:40 AM, so I stayed near the airport the night before. I arrived at Kunming Changshui Airport around noon, and the blue sky and white clouds instantly cured my early-morning fatigue.

Airport → Train Station: Take Airport Shuttle Bus Line 2, 25 yuan per person, running every 30 minutes, about 45 minutes to Kunming Railway Station. Store your luggage first (small items about 10 yuan).

Train Station → Haigeng Dam: Bus No. 44, a double-decker—it felt like going back to childhood. If you take a taxi, be sure to negotiate the fare; Kunming taxi drivers often don't use the meter and quote random prices.

Haigeng Park: Located on the east bank of Dianchi Lake, shaded by trees, with orange-yellow pathways against the blue lake water—it looks like a painting. In the afternoon, sunlight spills across the lake, and suddenly flocks of seagulls appear—I've heard not everyone gets to see them, so we were incredibly lucky. Walking along the long embankment, you'll see scenes of serene "fishing alone on a cold river," plus a café converted from a shipping container—perfect for zoning out.

Yunnan Ethnic Village: Admission 90 yuan (a bit cheaper if booked online). It features 1:1 replicas of 25 ethnic minority villages. The bamboo houses of the Dai village and the Sun Calendar Square of the Yi village are must-sees. Walk from Haigeng Park to the back gate; if you buy a full-price ticket, you can take a free shuttle to the main entrance. The village is quiet and uncrowded, with green trees reflected in the lake like an ink wash painting. At the entrance, there are various ethnic-style shops, and the corn decorations are especially photogenic.

Golden Horse and Jade Rooster Archway (Jinma Biji Fang): Take bus A1, a double-decker, to the city center. It was still light out at around 7 PM. Under the iconic archways, I went to Qiaoxiangyuan (Bridge Fragrance Garden) for a bowl of rice noodles (mixian)—the broth was on the lighter side. The night scene was lively and bustling. I wandered until around 9 PM, then headed back to the train station, freshened up in the restroom at Dicos (a fast-food chain), and boarded the train.

Day 2: Dali Old Town, Xizhou, Haishie Park, Taoyuan Village

I arrived in Dali at 6:30 AM. There were ride-sharing offers right outside the train station, but bus No. 8 was more budget-friendly—40 minutes to the old town. Along the way, I saw simple villages and fields: grandparents taking kids to school, women preparing for farm work. It was so peaceful it soothed my soul.

Dali Old Town: Get off at the Feng Hua Xue Yue Hotel stop and store your luggage (10 yuan). The old town is known for "every home has flowing water, every household grows flowers," and it's especially serene in the early morning. Wuhua Tower (Five Flower Tower) was once the guesthouse of the Nanzhao Kingdom, with the Cangshan Mountains looming faintly in the distance. After two hours of exploring, I took a ride-share to Xizhou (20 yuan).

Xizhou: A historic Bai ethnic town and the setting of the classic film Five Golden Flowers. After checking into Taoyuan Renjia, a young staff member warmly offered me tea, and the lake-view terrace offered an expansive vista. In the afternoon, I rented an electric scooter to Haishie Park. The road was dusty, so remember to wear a mask.

Haishie Park: Free entry; parking the scooter costs 5 yuan. It's a long sandbar jutting into the lake on three sides, shaped like a tongue. The wetland has lots of reeds—watch out for boggy ground! Horse-drawn carts jingled through the wheat fields. To enter the photo zone at the Haishie coffee shop, you need to buy a drink (the coffee was just okay). The most stunning sight was the withered trees standing in the water, their broken trunks reflected like a dream. A couple was taking wedding photos, and an abandoned boat made a perfect prop.

Taoyuan Village: I returned to the inn in the evening. The 270-degree lake-view room faced Erhai Lake and a solitary boat, and the Bai architectural style was enchanting. I lay on the public terrace, watching the lake, as a lone boat drifted on the breeze. Dinner was at the inn's affiliated restaurant: Xizhou baba (a local flatbread) paired with local wine. As the stars emerged over the water, it was pure romance.

Day 3: Erhai Sunrise, Shuanglang, Lakeside Cycling, Wase

Sunrise: Around 7 AM, Xizhou is the best spot. When the sky began to blush, I was overwhelmed with excitement. The sun leaped above the water, casting rays of light in all directions. I set my phone's timer to take photos, and the glow fell on a small bridge and flowing water. In that moment, I felt that no matter how hard life gets, it's all worth it.

Shuanglang: I took a ride-share for 80 yuan to Nuan Nuan Inn, climbed the 66 steps, and saw the lobby walls covered with photos of past travelers. In the afternoon, I went lakeside cycling from Shuanglang to Wase. The scenery was a continuous painting: Erhai Lake shimmering under the sun, the Cangshan Mountains like a screen, and horse-drawn carts occasionally passing on the cycling path, their bells mingling with the wind.

Epilogue: What Erhai Lake Taught Me

On this trip, I saw the seagulls of Dianchi Lake, the tranquility of Dali, the gentleness of Erhai, and the烟火 (lively atmosphere) of Lijiang. But what I'll remember most is sitting on the terrace at Taoyuan Renjia, watching a lone boat bob on Erhai Lake, sipping a glass of wine.

The details we overlook in the city—the sound of the wind, the color of the water, the warmth of the sun—became vivid here. Erhai may not be the most beautiful lake in the world, but it gives you a sense of peace, a belief that life can slow down, and that beauty is right in front of you.

Finally, three keywords for you: Sunscreen, Comfort, and Letting Go. Take them with you to Yunnan. There, you'll find the answers you're looking for.