Wandering Through Tengchong｜Finding My Poetry and Distant Fields on the Southwest Frontier

As autumn winds begin to stir and a chill creeps onto my fingertips, a longing for a warm escape takes hold. This time, the destination is clear—Tengchong, a place etched into geography textbooks and planted deep in my heart as a land of anticipation.

When people mention Tengchong, many first think of the famous "Heihe–Tengchong Line," that demographic and economic dividing line that made countless students remember this remote border town during their school days. But only when you truly step into it do you realize that this place offers not just a geographical coordinate, but a way of life that makes you want to linger forever.

Departing from Shanghai, after 15 hours of travel and transfers, Box and I finally set foot on this land. What greeted us was the moist air, the lazy sunlight, and a long-lost sense of relaxation. Over this 7-day journey, we soaked in hot springs, hiked through the Gaoligong Mountains, explored ancient towns, and hunted for the perfect wild mushroom hotpot. Every moment felt like pressing the pause button on life.

Moments That Stay With You

If I had to put labels on this trip, I would unhesitatingly write "Heshun Ancient Town" and "The Gaoligong Mountain Wilderness Kitchen." Some people say you can finish exploring Heshun Ancient Town in just a few hours. I wonder—did they just snap a photo at the entrance and leave? This ancient town deserves to be measured with your footsteps and savored with your time.

In the early morning, head to the morning market for a steaming bowl of rice noodles (米线). Sit by the street, listening to the rising and falling cries of vendors, soaking in the everyday bustle that has continued for centuries. In the afternoon, find a café like Chunye (椿野), order a cup of coffee, and overlook the entire town as time slips through your fingers. At dusk, stroll along the Ancient Tea Horse Road, gazing at the majestic Thousand-Hand Guanyin Ancient Tree Cluster. It's as if the old trees are whispering, telling stories of the mule caravans from long ago.

And the Gaoligong Mountain Wilderness Kitchen? That was a feast for both the taste buds and the soul. Our guide led us through the primeval forest on a 5-kilometer hike. Along the way, waterfalls, wild persimmon trees heavy with golden fruit, and mushrooms of every shape and size kept our eyes busy. But the most stunning surprise was the freshly grilled black-hair pork belly (黑毛猪五花肉) at the wilderness kitchen—the best pork I've ever eaten, hands down.

Heshun Ancient Town: Where Time Stands Still

Heshun Ancient Town, located in the southwest of Tengchong City, has been preserved in its entirety thanks to its remote border location and limited transportation access. It has been listed by National Geographic as one of the 50 places you must visit in your lifetime. It was also a key stop on the ancient Southern Silk Road, a famous hometown of overseas Chinese, and an important mule caravan town. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, this town produced over 400 provincial degree holders (举人) and imperial scholars (秀才), a testament to its profound cultural heritage.

The Everyday Life of the Ancient Town Is Life Itself

Heshun's charm lies in its "oldness." The polished bluestone slabs on the streets are the best witnesses of time. There's no heavy commercial atmosphere here—only the daily traces of local life.

• Century-Old Vegetable Street (百年菜街): The liveliest street in the town. Every morning, aunties and uncles set up stalls selling fresh produce, filling the air with the aroma of everyday life.
• Heshun Library (和顺图书馆): Known as China's finest rural library, it's still in operation today, boasting a rich collection and a long history.
• Thousand-Hand Guanyin Ancient Tree Cluster (千手观音古树群): Five ancient camphor trees lined up in a row, their branches spreading out like a thousand arms, resembling the Thousand-Hand Guanyin (Goddess of Mercy).
• Twin Rainbow Bridge (双虹桥): Nearby, rice paddies, lotus ponds, and locals casting nets for fish create a scene straight out of a pastoral poem.

The Slow Life of the Ancient Town Is a Luxury

In this ancient town, time seems to slow down. You can go to Wenchang Palace (文昌宫) to make a rubbing print on local paper (腾宣), sit in an alley chatting with the aunties, or order a 5-yuan Americano on the terrace of Chunye Café, overlooking the entire town. In the evening, head to the night market for some barbecue, or soak in the Bailian Hot Springs (柏联温泉)—and all the day's fatigue melts away.

Practical Tips

• Ticket: 55 yuan, valid for unlimited entry within 7 days.
• Accommodation: Stay in the ancient town. Most guesthouses offer airport pickup, and you can get around on foot.
• Transportation: If coming from afar, fly directly to Tengchong Tuofeng Airport. If taking the high-speed train, you can only go as far as Baoshan Station, then transfer to a bus to Tengchong (about 2.5 hours).
• Money-saving tip: For Bailian Hot Springs, you can find cheaper tickets on online flea markets (海鲜市场).

Gaoligong Mountain Hiking: Letting Go in Nature

If you have enough time, make sure to include a Gaoligong Mountain hike in your itinerary. We booked a 5-kilometer day tour and it was a perfect experience.

The Hiking Route: A Leisurely 5 km Version

We started from downtown Tengchong, were picked up and taken to the trailhead, and then began a 3-hour forest hike. Along the way, we passed three waterfalls, with the middle one being the most spectacular. It was the season for wild persimmons, and the branches were heavy with golden fruit. Our guide also pointed out various wild mushrooms along the trail. At the exit, we spotted a "见手青" (a type of psychedelic mushroom that turns blue when touched)—an unexpected bonus.

The Wilderness Kitchen: An Ultimate Feast for the Taste Buds

After the hike, we arrived at the wilderness kitchen by a small stream. The villagers had set up thatched shelters and stone tables and chairs, covering the tables with leaves as tablecloths. The whole setting was wonderfully rustic. Grilled black-hair pork belly, grilled pork ribs, steamed farmhouse vegetables, pork rib hotpot, mountain spring water-soaked fruits, Yunnan coffee... course after course of delicious food left us stuffed. After the meal, we played in the stream, teased the ducks, or picked fresh cucumbers from the fields—pure, wild fun.

Soaking in a Wild Hot Spring: The Perfect Way to Soothe Tired Feet

After the hike, we visited a wild hot spring called Nangua Wild Hot Spring (南瓜野温泉). Soaking in the warm spring water, with the blue sky and white clouds above, every pore in my body seemed to open up, and the soreness in my legs vanished instantly. If you just want to soak your feet, navigate to "Shiqiang Wild Hot Spring" (石墙野温泉)—10 yuan for foot soaking, 20 yuan for a full bath, a steal.

Practical Tips

• Price: The 5-kilometer day tour costs about 300 yuan. Don't listen to taxi drivers who recommend packages over 400 yuan.
• Gear: Bring hiking poles and hiking boots. Protecting yourself is your own responsibility.
• Solo experience: If you don't want to hike, you can book just the wilderness kitchen meal for 100 yuan per person.

Other Treasures of Tengchong: Worth Visiting One by One

Beyond Heshun Ancient Town and the Gaoligong Mountains, Tengchong has many other places worth exploring.

Dongshan Grassland (东山草原): Tengchong's Own Altay

Ticket: 20 yuan; self-driving car: 60 yuan. Here, you'll find blue skies, white clouds, and herds of cattle and sheep, as if you've stepped into a vast prairie. On a clear day, the photos are stunning, and you can overlook the entire city of Tengchong.

Simola Wa Ethnic Village (司莫拉瓦族村): A Mysterious Ancient Village Over 500 Years Old

Free entry; shuttle bus: 10 yuan one way. This ancient village, with over 500 years of history, still retains the original traces of its villagers' lives. Built on a hillside, the village is a tapestry of forests, terraced fields, and springs, full of raw beauty.

Rehai Scenic Area (热海景区): Witnessing Unique Geothermal Wonders

Ticket: 50 yuan. No need to buy the sightseeing car ticket—it's only 900 meters away. The "Big Boiling Pot" (大滚锅) is a must-see, and you can soak your feet for 40 yuan. If you buy a package deal, Douyin (TikTok) offers a ticket + foot soak combo for 80 yuan.

Huangguacao Grandma's House (黄瓜箐外婆家): A Must-Visit for Hot Spring Soaking in Tengchong

Just the hot spring: 50 yuan per person; the mixed-gender pool (wear swimsuit): 100 yuan per person, both with no time limit. The water temperature is very high—two hours is enough. The steam bath here is also unique: pine needles are spread over the geothermal vents, and a mat is laid on top for steaming. The water quality is excellent, leaving your skin silky smooth after a soak.

Ginkgo Village (银杏村): A Golden Fairy Tale in Autumn

Ticket: 30 yuan. Best viewing time: mid-November to early December. The ginkgo king tree is over 1,300 years old. The 2,000 mu (about 330 acres) of ancient ginkgo forest is covered in fallen leaves, and walking on them feels like a healing experience. But be careful: don't buy the electric cart ticket—the ride is less than 3 minutes from boarding to alighting. And don't rent a bicycle—the village's stone roads will rattle you to your core.

Sanlian Village (三联村): Touching History with Joy

Free entry. This village specializes in handmade pottery. We randomly visited a few pottery shops and ended up at the Sun Family Pottery Shop (孙氏土陶馆), where we were invited to sit, drink tea, and chat. They told us their family has been making pottery for over twenty generations, since the Ming Dynasty. In the end, we picked out a pair of teacups and a teapot by eye—a memory of Tengchong to take home.

Volcanic Geothermal Geological Park (火山地热地质公园): Another Way to Experience It

We didn't enter the scenic area. Instead, we drove along County Road XM74, paying not a single yuan in tickets. Passing through the volcanic geological park, we drove past burned-out volcanoes. On the left side of the road in the middle section, we could park and fly a drone to capture a panoramic view of the volcanic road.

Travel Summary: Tengchong Is Worth Your Stay

On this trip to Tengchong, we strolled along the bluestone paths of Heshun Ancient Town, experiencing the simple rural life and rich ethnic culture. We ventured deep into the Gaoligong Mountains, exploring the mysteries of the primeval forest and enjoying the tranquility and grandeur of nature. We visited the volcanic geothermal park, getting up close to volcanic relics, and felt the miraculous power of nature in the hot springs.

Itinerary (Relaxed, Not Rushed)

• Day 1: Heshun Ancient Town
• Day 2: Heshun Ancient Town
• Day 3: Dongshan Grassland — Simola Wa Ethnic Village — Big Boiling Pot — Grandma's House
• Day 4: Gaoligong Mountain Day Hike
• Day 5: Ginkgo Village — Sanlian Village — Volcanic Geothermal Geological Park

Transportation Tips

• Flight: Tengchong Tuofeng Airport, Baoshan Yunduan Airport
• Train: High-speed rail only goes to Baoshan; then transfer to a bus to Tengchong (about 2.5 hours)
• Car Rental: The attractions are scattered, so renting a car is convenient and cost-effective

Accommodation Tips

• Stay in Tengchong county town or Heshun Ancient Town—they're very close (about 4 km apart)
• Many guesthouses in the ancient town offer pickup services, but the streets are narrow, so choose a guesthouse near the edge
• If you get bored, split your stay: 2 days in the ancient town, 2 days in the county town

Budget Reference (Per Person)

• Round-trip flight: 1,500 yuan
• Round-trip high-speed rail: 330 yuan
• Round-trip bus: 180 yuan
• Hotel accommodation: 1,900 yuan (6 nights)
• Activities, food, and drinks: 3,000 yuan

Tengchong is a place that makes you want to stay and live. It has none of the noise of big cities, none of the crowds of popular tourist spots. Only a slow-paced life, genuine local people, and an endless feast of natural beauty. If you're tired of city life, come to this small border town in the southwest for a break. You'll find that poetry and distant fields are right beneath your feet.