Wasting Time on Beauty: Dawn, Sunset, and Stargazing at Lugu Lake

Some trips are carefully planned. Others are gifts quietly tucked into your lap by fate. Our original Spring Festival destination was Dumaguete in the Philippines — we dreamed of swimming with whale sharks in crystal blue waters. But our holiday dates kept shifting, and flights to Manila had skyrocketed like a rocket, doubling in price. We just couldn't bring ourselves to pay that. What to do? We couldn't spend Chinese New Year stuck at home scrolling through our phones. My wife and I exchanged a knowing smile, and our eyes landed on the same spot on the map — that highland lake called Lugu Lake.

When people heard we were driving to Lugu Lake, the first reaction was always: "You can see everything in a day. Why not explore more places nearby?" I just smiled and shook my head. For me, Lugu Lake isn't a place to "check off a list." It's a place to "waste" time. Ten days wouldn't be enough, because I wanted to be with her — laughing under the stars every night, zoning out in the morning light, sitting in silence as the sun went down.

Setting Off: A "Close Encounter" with the Sichuan Car Armada

Day 1: Chongqing → Xichang | 730 Kilometers of "Cultivation"

At 8 a.m. on the second day of the Lunar New Year, we set off from Chongqing, fully loaded with anticipation. I thought leaving the city would be a nightmare, but the roads were wide open — we were so happy we could have burst into song. But the good times didn't last. After Ya'an, we merged with the great Sichuan car armada, and the real "Spring Festival blockbuster" began.

A word of honest advice: gas stations on the Ya'an–Xichang Expressway are few and far between. During Spring Festival, you can't even squeeze into them. Avoid them if you can, or you'll experience what it feels like when your tank hits empty and your heart sinks along with it.

Around noon, we passed Hanyuan and decisively pulled off the highway to find food. At the first beef soup hotpot shop on the left after the exit, the spicy broth was fragrant and delicious. But later, a local friend told me the clear broth is the real soul of the place — well, a reason to come back next time.

What followed was the worst traffic jam I've experienced in over a decade of driving. From 2 p.m. onward, it was stop-and-go, go-and-stop, until we finally just parked on the highway and watched a free sunset. It wasn't until we passed Lugu Town that we discovered the culprit: road construction had squeezed four lanes into one. No wonder it was a nightmare. Don't even think about taking the provincial road — you'll get stuck just as badly.

We finally arrived in Xichang at 10:30 p.m. I heard my cousin, who left on the first day of the New Year, didn't make it until the early morning — suddenly, I felt much better.

Day 2: Xichang → Lugu Lake | 260 Kilometers of "Mountain Crossing"

The next morning at 8:30, we set off together with my cousin's family. The road from Xichang to Lugu Lake is mostly mountain roads, with only a short stretch of expressway. After you get off the highway, fill up your tank — gas stations along the way are rarer than pandas.

As we crossed one mountain after another, the scenery began to get beautiful. The sky outside the window grew bluer, the air clearer, and our spirits soared. Passing through Yanyuan County, we stopped to buy several boxes of local apples — medium boxes for 45 yuan, small ones for 35. The owner said they could ship them, adding 20 yuan per box for delivery. Back home, I weighed a medium box — about 13 pounds. Juicy, sweet, and regretful I didn't buy more.

For lunch, we grabbed whatever we could find at a roadside restaurant and kept moving. By 5 p.m., we finally reached the entrance to Lugu Lake Scenic Area — and then got stuck in traffic for nearly another hour. Well, what can you do? It's Spring Festival. We accepted it quietly.

The back door of our hotel led directly to the lakeshore, where a group of black wild ducks played on the water. The scene was so peaceful, you didn't want to disturb it. At 6:50 p.m., sunset was approaching. My wife and I sat by the lake, waiting quietly for that moment. My cousin called to say the hotpot was ready — "Come over after you finish shooting" — which made me a little embarrassed.

Dawn at Lugu Lake: One Person's Stars, Two People's Romance

A Little Secret for Portrait Photography

How do you take portraits when the light is bad? Normally, faces turn into dark blobs. I have three methods: flash (too harsh — I don't like it), a reflector (no assistant — can't use it), or post-processing (remember to set your camera to RAW). I usually open the aperture all the way, set ISO to around 200, keep the shutter speed at a safe level, and focus on the eyes — a wide aperture not only lets in more light but also blurs the background, killing two birds with one stone.

Day 3: Lugu Lake | 4 a.m. Stargazing

Back at the hotel, I was too excited to sleep. At 4 a.m., before my alarm even went off, I was awake. I loaded up my gear and went to the lakeshore. The sky was filled with stars so beautiful it took my breath away — but the location was bad. I needed to move. My wife was still asleep, so I drove alone to Lige. To my surprise, a few other early birds had beaten me there.

At 6:40 a.m., the Milky Way was at its highest point in the dark sky. Soon, the horizon would begin to lighten. The soft glow at Lige was beautiful too. Around 7:20 a.m., three tour buses pulled up and disgorged a crowd of people. I knew my peaceful photo time was over — time to bail.

On the way back to the hotel, I found a nice spot, pulled over, and snapped a shot. It had a dreamlike quality. Back at the hotel, my wife was still asleep. I sat alone by the lake, quietly watching the sun rise. Actually, the sunrise at Lugu Lake isn't a true sunrise — the sun doesn't appear until around 8:15 a.m., when the light is already quite strong.

When the sky began to blush red, I wished she were there beside me. Sitting together by the lake, leaning into each other, quietly enjoying the dawn — that's all I ever wanted.

Backlight at the Grass Sea and the Warmth of Hotpot

At 9 a.m., we set off from the hotel toward the Grass Sea to take some backlit portraits of my wife. In winter, Lugu Lake has almost no clouds. The sky was so blue it looked like it had been washed clean. The sun was a bit harsh, though. My wife has sensitive skin, and she couldn't take it for long — luckily, I'm sun-resistant.

By the time we finished shooting, it was 10 a.m., and we finally had breakfast. Breakfast options at Lugu Lake are depressingly limited. Rice noodles were our daily must-order — 10 to 15 yuan per bowl.

After breakfast, we planned to circle the lake with my cousin. But we hadn't driven two kilometers before we hit traffic. It was the fourth day of the New Year — peak season. We hate crowds, so we immediately turned around and headed back to Daluoshui to wander along the lakeshore.

At 4:30 p.m., my cousin and his family were resting at the hotel. My wife and I decided to go to Wakua Pier to watch the sunset — an hour's drive each way. Wakua Pier wasn't crowded. It was just the right amount of quiet. How do you shoot backlit silhouettes? Set the aperture to around f/14, focus on the bright area, set ISO to 100, and press the shutter. If you're not comfortable with manual mode, use Aperture Priority (A mode) — just adjust the aperture. Strike exaggerated poses, and the dramatic shots will come naturally — even if my old bones made the jumps look pretty awkward.

The moment the sun dipped below the horizon, the day was over. We went back to my cousin's for hotpot. They'd bought yak meat and pork in town that day, they said. That meal was deeply satisfying.

Day 4: Lugu Lake | One Person's Scouting, Two People's Stars

This morning, I went out scouting alone again. Staring up at the stars by myself, I felt like my journey was the sea of stars. I was completely captivated by this place. Finally, I found the perfect spot to celebrate my wife's birthday.

After scouting, I went back and took another set of photos of my wife by the lake. The morning mist in the distance paired beautifully with the scenery. Lugu Lake is so beautiful it leaves you speechless. On the way back, I passed two elderly women praying. The scene was quiet and reverent.

Tonight, we were staying on the Grass Sea side, so we couldn't circle the lake with my cousin. No more DIY hotpot dinners — a bit disappointing. Luowa Pier on the Grass Sea side wasn't crowded, but the accommodation was just average. To the left, the golden expanse in the distance was the Grass Sea.

After lunch, we went looking for a good spot to photograph the stars at night. Before we knew it, it was sunset. We took a few shots by the Grass Sea. The wind was strong, whipping our hair into a mess, but the feeling was just right. We'd planned to go to the Sacrificial Altar to watch the sunset, but we'd spent too much time photographing the Grass Sea. By the time we got up there, the sun had already slipped behind the hills.

Dinner was in Zuosuo Town. The taste was... edible. Later, we went back up to the Sacrificial Altar to see the night view of Lugu Lake. The first shot I took caught a shooting star — I made a wish, just in case it comes true.

At the Sacrificial Altar, it was just us, the darkness, and the howling wind. Tonight was a waxing crescent moon, and the lake was bathed in moonlight. The villages of Daluoshui and Lige glowed in the distance. Gemu Goddess Mountain loomed in the night, with the winter Milky Way arching right over her head. Tonight, for the first time, I had someone to chase the stars with.

Day 5: Lugu Lake | Seagulls, Morning Mist, and a Surprise

Yesterday afternoon, we'd spent ages searching for a straight stretch of road, perfect for stargazing. We took turns shooting — one shot for you, one for me. Group shots were a must. The summer Milky Way stretched right above our heads, so beautiful it made you want to cry. Finally, we sat on the ground, staring up at the stars until dawn. It felt incredibly romantic.

At daybreak, my wife wanted to watch the sunrise at Luowa Pier. As I expected — no clouds, so the sunrise wasn't particularly spectacular. Back at our lodging, I noticed an old man staring blankly at the sun, his face etched with the marks of time.

After breakfast, we took a boat ride through the Grass Sea to see the seagulls. There were two ticket options: 100 yuan and 50 yuan. The difference was the distance — the shorter route apparently didn't go through the Grass Sea. The morning mist over the Grass Sea was like a fairyland. Beyond the Grass Sea, the lake opened up wide.

Actually, we were a bit late for the boat ride. The best time is the first boat of the day, when lots of seagulls surround you. By the time we went, most of the seagulls had already been fed. Disappointed? You wanted to see seagulls, and now there are hardly any.

On the way back, suddenly a flock of seagulls appeared — they finally circled our boat. I was as excited as a child.

Today, we were heading back to Daluoshui. To our surprise, we were given a lake-view room. The owner sounded like he was from Shaanxi. Later, we found out that every room in their hotel has a lake view — amazing.

At 4:30 p.m., we set off again toward Luyuan Cliff. The wind there was fierce — almost strong enough to drive a person crazy. Halfway back, the sky started to turn purple. It looked beautiful. We pulled over, snapped a shot, and kept going.

Day 6: Lugu Lake | A Birthday Under the Silver Arch

Today was my wife's lunar calendar birthday. I planned to count stars with her under the silver arch of the Milky Way. Would you like a birthday like this?

My wife was in high spirits for stargazing portraits tonight. When I felt the timing was right, I took another shot of the Milky Way arch. Hand in hand, walking together — entrust your life to me. Don't look back at yesterday; tomorrow, we'll be gray-haired together.

The sky was about to lighten. This was the moment I'd been waiting for. Happy birthday. Thank you for accompanying me on this star-chasing journey. I never proposed to you back then — let me make up for it now. Is this romantic enough for you?

This morning was a perfect experience. Having you by my side — it felt wonderful.

After the stargazing, we drove back to Daluoshui. Just past 8 a.m., there were already quite a few people by the lake, but the seagulls my wife wanted to see were missing. No seagulls? Time for breakfast. After so many days at Lugu Lake, this was the earliest we'd eaten.

After breakfast, we went to the shore at Xiaoyu Dam. Not a soul in sight — just the two of us again. The sunlight bathed us, warm and comforting.

Today, we could finally visit the Lige observation deck — the main crowds had started heading home yesterday. This is the iconic postcard view of Lugu Lake, still as beautiful as ever. I thought back to when we were here six years ago. Time flies. I wondered if I should dig up the photo we took here back then — so many memories, so much love.

After a brief trip down memory lane, we headed to Lover's Bay. About 200 meters away, the road was cut off — probably from a landslide. We parked and walked the rest of the way. The water was so clear, and there were hardly any people. We left our footprints — our shadows — here, so we can look back on this journey someday.

Lunch was at "Good People's Eatery" in Lover's Bay — a small, internet-famous spot. 30 yuan per person for all-you-can-eat. Their specialties are matsutake mushroom stewed chicken and matsutake mushroom stewed fish. I thought the fish wouldn't be anything special after the chicken, but I was wrong — the fish was way better. Both the fish and the broth were incredibly delicious. Incredibly, incredibly delicious — important things must be said three times.

Day 7: Lugu Lake → Xichang | Farewells and Reluctance

Today, we had to leave. My internal clock was set — I'd wake up naturally by 5 a.m. at the latest. I took a shot from the balcony, hesitated, but couldn't resist going out again.

It was especially cold today. Ice had formed on the car windows. At the Daluoshui lakeshore, I shot another arch — but I was lazy and skipped two frames for the panorama. Someone had left a bench there, so I sat for a while. Early in the morning, a fisherman was casting his net. The morning mist hung like a veil over the water.

Time to say goodbye. One last set of photos, and then we're out. The thought of driving all day was painful.

After one last look at the full view from the Walking Marriage Bridge, it was really time to go. Breakfast was in the car. Lunch was in Yanyuan County. With some space freed up in the car, we bought two more boxes of apples — a post-trip review: Yanyuan apples are truly delicious.

Tonight, I could finally get a good night's sleep. For dinner in Xichang, we had the legendary fire-pit barbecue. If you arrive late at this place, there's no room.

Day 8: Xichang → Chongqing | A Perfect Ending

Today, there was no traffic. We got up at 8 a.m., had breakfast, and drove back to our beloved Chongqing — smooth sailing all the way. This trip ended perfectly.

Next long holiday? See you in Turkey.

Practical Tips: For Those Heading to Lugu Lake

Itinerary Overview

Road Conditions

Chongqing to Xichang is all expressway (Chongqing section: 100 km/h limit; Sichuan section: 120 km/h). Xichang to Lugu Lake is winding mountain roads with lots of curves but no bad stretches (mostly 60 km/h limit). Small cars have no problem. Use Baidu offline navigation — no data needed.

Accommodation Recommendations

• Xichang: Yijia Chain Hotel (good environment and service)
• Lugu Lake, Daluoshui: Shanshui Lijing Hotel (every room has a lake view, great service)
• Lugu Lake, lakeside: Jinshangju Boutique Inn (right by the lake, nice environment)
• Grass Sea: Bihai Lantian Inn (average conditions — only stay here if you're shooting photos)

Cost Breakdown (Two People)

Total driving distance: 2,200 km (including three lake loops and morning stargazing drives)

Photography Gear

• Camera body: Nikon D810
• Lenses: Nikon 24–70, Sigma 12–24
• Tripod: Sirui tripod, selfie stick

Packing Checklist

1. Sun protection: Sunscreen, sunglasses (UV at Lugu Lake is intense)
2. Skincare: Lip balm, hand cream, moisturizer, face masks
3. Medicine: Anti-inflammatories, cold medicine, fever reducers, painkillers, anti-diarrheal, allergy meds, band-aids
4. Clothing: Jeans, coat, thermal underwear, sweater, down jacket, dress, hat, gloves, scarf
5. Food: Bottled water, fruit, snacks, instant noodles (for rest stops on the road)
6. Car gear: Tire chains, portable air pump
7. Other: Laptop, power bank, chargers, hair dryer, power strip, flashlight, LED light

Food Recommendations

• Xichang: Fire-pit barbecue, Xichang rice noodles, fried potatoes, 坨坨肉 (chunk meat chunks), drunken shrimp
• Lugu Lake: Overall food is average, but "Good People's Eatery" at Goddess Bay is the exception — the matsutake mushroom stewed chicken and matsutake mushroom stewed fish are both worth trying

A Final Thought

The beauty of Lugu Lake can't be seen in a single day. It demands that you slow down — to zone out in the morning light, to sit in silence at sunset, to make wishes under the stars. It doesn't ask you to rush. It asks you to stop — and waste your time on beauty.

If you're planning to go to Lugu Lake, remember this: Don't treat it as a scenic spot. Treat it as a place where you can "waste" time. With someone you love, watch the dawn, watch the sunset, watch the stars — that's the right way to experience Lugu Lake.

As for me, I'm already looking forward to the next long holiday. Turkey, wait for me.