Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moonlight over Erhai Lake: Heading West to Dali — The Ultimate Guide to Shuanglang

Weibo: goomguoguo | Dali Guesthouse: Fruit Tree Guesthouse

Why I'm Writing About Dali Again

Two years ago, I set foot on Dali's soil for the first time. By then, I had been drifting on the road for a year, exhausted in both body and spirit. Dali felt like a gentle harbor, welcoming a weary traveler—few tourists, Shuanglang as quiet as an ink wash painting. I stopped there and stayed.

I can't quite pinpoint why I fell in love with Dali. Maybe it was the wind off Erhai Lake blowing away the fatigue of the road. Maybe it was a bowl of cold chicken rice noodles handed to me by a Bai auntie, warming my stomach. Or perhaps it was simply that here, I could rest and earn money for the next leg of my journey at the same time.

Later, more and more people asked me for Dali travel tips, and more and more people came to Dali. I always felt my first article left out too much—new restaurants, new observation decks, newly discovered photo spots. So I decided to write again. This time, I'll cover everything about Dali, Erhai Lake, and Shuanglang: the most comprehensive, most detailed, and freshest information available.

Whether you're road-tripping, traveling independently, joining a tour group, or backpacking on a budget, this guide will give you real, practical help.

About Me: A Traveler Who's Been on the Road for Three Years

In 2013, after graduating, I founded my own company—and then personally dissolved it. I packed my bag and set off to chase my dreams.

In July 2014, I came to Dali for the first time. I set up a street stall for two months and took photos for people. In September of the same year, I backpacked solo along the Bingchacha Route into Tibet, beginning my third journey there. After that, I traveled through South and Southeast Asia, officially starting my work as a travel photographer.

In 2015, I cycled the Xinjiang-Tibet Highway and filmed China's first cycling music micro-documentary in Tibet. In 2016, I set out from India, crossing Eurasia and Africa, until I ended my journey in South Africa in September and returned to Dali.

Three years of travel, 100,000 photos, countless days and nights. Travel is beautiful, but it's also exhausting. Growing older, I decided to stay in Dali for a year—to do something meaningful, then set off again. Why Dali? Because it's close to home. Because I already knew its beauty well. And because here, travel and life can merge into one.

Pre-Trip Preparation: Sunscreen, Clothing, and Weather

Sunscreen is Priority Number One

When coming to Dali, bring plenty of sunscreen. Start with SPF 30, SPF 50 is best. I spend all day outdoors taking photos, and my skin is already deeply tanned, but every evening after work, it's still bright red from the sun.

Post-sun care is equally important. After washing your face, spray on a generous amount of cooling hydrating mist to calm your skin—it works better than any face mask.

Essential Medications

• Stomach medicine, cold medicine, anti-inflammatories: Bai cuisine is sour and spicy, and newcomers often experience digestive discomfort
• Insect repellent: Plenty of mosquitoes and bugs in the countryside
• Lip balm: Dali's climate is dry, and your lips will chap easily
• Rain gear: Summer weather is unpredictable—it often rains while the sun is shining

What to Wear

Attention, ladies: - Bring a few long dresses: white, red, and floral maxi dresses photograph best - Avoid urban-style or trendy clothes—the more relaxed and colorful, the better - No high heels needed—the ancient town's stone streets aren't suitable - A hat is essential: stylish and sun-protective

Temperature Reminder: - No need for heavy clothes in summer - In winter, bring two warm layers—the sun keeps things pleasant during the day, but it gets cold at night - Don't take Dali's weather forecast too seriously: it rains often, but always with blue skies and white clouds, and the rain stops after half an hour

How to Get to Dali

By Train (Best for Budget Travelers)

Kunming → Dali: - Hard seat: 64 yuan, hard sleeper: 103 yuan, 5-8 hours - Direct shuttle bus from Kunming Airport to the train station (14 yuan) - Fastest option: depart 11:00 AM, arrive Dali 4:20 PM - In a hurry? Take the overnight train (departures every hour from 8-11 PM) to save a night's accommodation

Lijiang → Dali: - Hard seat: 24 yuan, two and a half hours - Bus from Lijiang Ancient Town to the train station

Dali Train Station → Old Town: - Take bus No. 8 for 2 yuan, get off at Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon Hotel - Or take a commercial minivan for 20 yuan

Dali Train Station → Shuanglang: - Commercial minivans outside the station: 25 yuan, 1 hour direct - Or take a bus from Xiaguan Bus Station: 15 yuan, 80 km, one and a half hours

By Bus

Kunming → Dali: - Just over five hours, depart from Kunming Western Bus Station, ticket 105 yuan - Buses also available from the train station: 120 yuan

Lijiang → Dali: - Depart from Lijiang Bus Station, two and a half hours, about 70 yuan

After Arriving by Bus: - Take bus No. 8 outside the station to the Old Town, or take a minibus to the Old Town and Shuanglang

By Plane

Most major cities have direct flights to Dali Airport, or you can transfer through Kunming for cheaper fares.

Airport Transport: - To the Old Town: private car about 100 yuan - To Shuanglang: private car about 150 yuan - Airport shuttle bus to Xiaguan urban area: 20 yuan

Highly Recommended: Fly to Lijiang From Lijiang, share a car to Dali Old Town or Shuanglang: 80 yuan per person; private car: 400 yuan per car, one and a half hours direct.

Dali Old Town: Accommodation and Food

Top-Tier Guesthouses

• Dali Old Town No. 1 Courtyard: Villa-style hotel in the upper left of the Old Town, prices 1,000-10,000 yuan
• Dali Shinian Li Shang Wanglai Boutique Inn: Yin Cang Road, strong design aesthetic, prices 120-500 yuan
• Dali Lianshe Yixianju Inn: Green Jade Road, white-toned design, perfect for minimalist photos, prices 650-1,500 yuan

Backpacker Recommendation

• Dali Letu International Youth Hostel: Inside the Old Town, convenient location, prices 20-120 yuan

There are many guesthouses in the Old Town, and you can find a decent one for around 100 yuan. Choose freely based on your preferences.

Must-Eat Foods

• Cold Chicken Rice Noodles (凉鸡米线): "Zaihuishou" on the upper section of Renmin Road, 10 yuan per bowl
• Grilled Scallops (烤扇): "Yangji" at the intersection of Renmin Road and Fuxing Road, 5 yuan each
• Midnight Snacks (深夜食堂): Mid-section of Renmin Road, open 11 PM to 4 AM
• Barbecue: North Gate of the Old Town, recommended: chicken feet, grilled tofu
• Free Vegetarian Meals: South Gate of the Old Town, served at 11 AM and 6 PM, expect to queue, eat in silence
• Chongqing Hot Pot: Mid-section of Yeyu Road, opposite the post office, about 70 yuan per person
• Braised Meat with Rice Noodles (耙肉饵丝): "Weishan Braised Meat with Rice Noodles" on the mid-section of Yu'er Road, 8 yuan per bowl
• Dali Yogurt: 8 yuan per bottle, incredibly delicious

Bar Recommendation

Bad Monkey Bar on the upper section of Renmin Road. You must try their house-brewed Dali Dark Beer (35 yuan per mug).

Shopping and Strolling

• Ethnic Clothing: The street at the very top of Foreigner Street is the cheapest
• Local Specialties: Jiahua Flower Pastries, Rose Jam
• Must-Visit: Near the Erhai Gate at the lower end of Renmin Road, where wandering backpackers and travelers gather—you'll find all sorts of unexpected treasures

Dali Old Town: Things to Do

Daytime Attractions

• Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas: Two kilometers from the Old Town, ticket 90 yuan
• Cangshan Mountain: 350 yuan includes ticket, cable car, and Tianlong Babu Film City

Recommended Activities

1. Erhai Lake Cruise Day Trip (150 yuan per person) Book through your guesthouse. Includes lunch, stops at Xizhou, Shuanglang, Caicun, and other spots. Excellent value for money.

2. Electric Scooter/Bicycle Ride Along the West Coast - Small electric scooter: 40 yuan/day, large electric scooter: 50 yuan/day - Route: Old Town → Caicun → West Coast Road → Haishe Park → Xizhou Ancient Town (30 km one way) - Recommended stops along the way: Haishe Park, Xizhou Ancient Town, Stone Arch Water Bridge, Yinqiao Flower Fields

3. Private Car Tour Around Erhai Lake 350 yuan per car per day, can be negotiated down to 300 yuan. Very cost-effective.

4. Smart Car Around Erhai Lake Popular in both Shuanglang and the Old Town, 350 yuan/day, ideal for couples.

West Coast Seaview Guesthouse Recommendations

• Yundu Guesthouse (Wutong Guesthouse): Longkan Village on the West Coast Road, filming location for "Heart Flower Road," 3 km from the Old Town, prices 670-2,000 yuan
• Dali Wushe Exclusive Hotel: Majiuyi Village, 10 km from the Old Town, reservation required by phone, 800-2,000 yuan (winner of China's Hotel Architecture Design Award)
• Shangdaodao Inn: Panxi Village, Yinqiao Town, 8 km from the Old Town, prices 580-1,700 yuan
• Linghai Muyue Inn: Taoyuan Village, 25 km from the Old Town, 3 km from Xizhou Ancient Town, prices 360-1,800 yuan (the most photographed guesthouse for portrait shoots in Dali)
• Taoyuan No. 1 Seaview Resort Hotel: Taoyuan Village, prices 600-2,800 yuan
• Dali Xizhou Taoyuan Renjia Seaview Resort Villa: Taoyuan Village, prices 550-1,500 yuan, charming wooden architecture

Shuanglang Ancient Town: Current Situation and Transport

Road Construction Warning (September 2016 – October 2017)

Shuanglang is undergoing road construction. All vehicles are prohibited from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM, including on the expressway. You can only get on and off the expressway at Dengchuan and Wase.

What to Do: - Coming from the Old Town: Park at Shuanglang North Gate parking lot, take the government-run electric shuttle into town (10 yuan per person) - Coming from Wase: Park at Changyu Village parking lot, take the electric shuttle to the South Gate of the ancient town, then walk in - It's best to arrive by car in the evening or early morning, or contact your guesthouse in advance to plan your route

Shuanglang Transport

• Dali Old Town → Shuanglang: Take a minibus from Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon Hotel for 14 yuan, 60 km, 1 hour; or share a commercial minivan for 25 yuan
• Shuanglang → Kunming: 150 yuan per person, last departure 2 PM, direct to Kunming Airport
• Shuanglang → Lijiang: 80 yuan per person

Photography Guide: Spots You Absolutely Can't Miss

Classic Photo Spots

1. White Tables: Shuanglang's most iconic symbol. The original white table at Haidi Life is gone, but countless "replicas" have popped up everywhere. Go early, or you'll wait in a long line.

2. Wase Town Fishing Boats: On the East Coast Road near Wase Town, you'll find overturned fishing boats and a nearby forest. Lots of wedding photos being taken here.

1. Haishe Park: Near Xizhou Ancient Town, a pristine park with no entrance fee. Beautiful scenery and great for portraits, but crowded.

2. Xizhou Ancient Town Yellow Wall: The wall of Xilinyuan Guesthouse, a landmark building. A must-visit every time I'm in Xizhou.

3. Foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: The lawn next to the parking lot, with cattle and sheep grazing at the foot of the snow-capped mountain. Any shot here looks amazing.

4. Farmland Photo Studio: Between Dali Old Town and Caicun, or near Xizhou, 10 yuan per person, includes car props.

Seasonal Highlights

• Sunflowers: Summer, the fields around Erhai Lake burst into bloom
• Cosmos Flowers: Autumn, a highland specialty in full bloom
• Seagulls: Winter, seagulls from Siberia gather at Wase Town
• Fire Clouds (Sunset Skies): Summer, almost every day brings ever-changing, dramatic skies

Final Thoughts

The beauty of Dali cannot be fully experienced in a single trip. Every moment on Erhai Lake changes, and the clouds over Cangshan Mountain are different each day. I've taken 100,000 photos here, and I still feel like I can never capture enough.

Maybe you're exhausted by the noise of the city. Maybe you need a place to quiet your heart. If so, then head west to Dali.

Perhaps love is waiting by the shores of Erhai. Perhaps a story is about to unfold.

Weibo: goomguoguo – Feel free to ask me questions anytime. I may not reply immediately, but I read every single one carefully.

Key Reminders: - Sunscreen! Sunscreen! Sunscreen! - Don't trust the weather forecast—just bring an umbrella - The less "urban" your clothes, the better - During Shuanglang's road construction, plan your transport in advance - Go early for photos—popular spots have queues - Dali's slowness is worth savoring