Yubeng: Reuniting with Meili in the Mist

Yubeng: Reuniting with Meili in the Mist
Some places you've never set foot in, yet they've lived in your heart forever. Yubeng is exactly that kind of place.
Ten years ago, I passed through Deqin for the first time. A fleeting glance, and I saw the first snow mountain of my life. In that moment, the silhouette of Meili Snow Mountain was like a key, quietly unlocking a corner of my heart. Since then, I've traveled to many places, seen many snow-capped peaks, but a voice has always echoed inside me: You will go back.
This year, that voice finally became action.
The Reason for Going: A "No-Fuss" Spontaneous Trip

The pandemic has made travel a luxury. Last National Day, I was at home recovering from an injury; this year, I was trapped in the city again. It had been so long since I'd traveled far that I'd almost forgotten the weight of my backpack.

Luckily, my "procrastination-and-hesitation syndrome" finally met its match — Mr. Ke. From deciding on the destination to booking flights, there wasn't much hesitation. "I want to go to Yubeng." "Then let's go." It was absurdly simple.

I'm a Sagittarius, and deep down, there's a restless monkey living inside me. It wasn't exactly a spur-of-the-moment trip, but it was close enough — go when you want to go.
Yubeng: A Hidden Paradise Wrapped in Clouds and Fog

Yubeng Village, perched at over 3,000 meters above sea level, lies deep within Meili Snow Mountain. There are no roads here, only a single ancient trail connecting it to the outside world. Ten years ago, I wanted to step into this village, but I only passed by in haste, leaving behind a regret.

This time, the fog was impossibly thick. How thick? I couldn't see the village surrounded by snow mountains at all — the most beautiful view of all. But strangely enough, looking back, the peace and the hiking itself still felt worth it.

The name "Yubeng" is peculiar; it sounds like a distant legend. Driven by curiosity, I came to this village guarded by towering peaks. The snow mountains — whether visible or not — are always there. They can enter your eyes, and they can carve themselves into your heart.
Sacred Waterfall: Blessed by a Soaking
On our first day of hiking in Yubeng, we chose the Sacred Waterfall trail. The guesthouse owner said it would take about four hours round trip. We believed him. The result? We spent nearly eight hours.

The reason: taking photos.
We hadn't gone far before we started posing for pictures. First, photos before departure; then, check-in shots at the destination; then, a little more "fooling around." On the way back, there were almost no photos — because we were too exhausted to even pull out our phones.

The trail to Sacred Waterfall is actually quite easy — a fully paved concrete path, rated half a star in difficulty. But don't be fooled by that "half star." The ascent in the second half will make you question your life choices.
When we reached the waterfall, it was freezing cold at the summit. At an altitude of 3,663 meters, legend says this is the holy water that Kawagebo, the revered deity, brought back from heaven — water that can divine your fate and cleanse misfortune. We circled the waterfall three times, getting drenched by the "sacred water." In that moment, I felt a kind of blessing.
Before leaving, we built a small cairn (玛尼堆). Mr. Ke was lost in thought; I made a wish for world peace and my family's safety.
Practical Tips: When going to Sacred Waterfall, be sure to bring a waterproof jacket and hat. The bonfires on the mountain aren't just for show — you'll realize after descending how blissful it is to dry your clothes by the fire.
Ice Lake: A Night of Getting Lost and Poisonous Mushrooms
The second day's Ice Lake trail was the real test.

The guesthouse owner said it would take six hours round trip. I believed him again. The result? We walked for a full eleven hours — and nearly got lost in the primeval forest.
The Ice Lake trail is far more challenging than Sacred Waterfall. The beginning section through the grassland was beautiful, but soon turned into muddy pits. At first, we tried to avoid them; later, we just gave up and trudged through like walking on flat ground. Especially on the way back, when we got lost, all I could think about was survival — I couldn't care less about dirty shoes.

The most harrowing part was the return trip. We were having too much fun, and by the time we realized the main group had already left, it was too late. In the forest near Meiduo Peak, we took a wrong turn. The farther we went, the more off-course we became, and the more desolate the surroundings grew. Then we saw the poisonous mushrooms.
The moment I saw those mushrooms, my blood ran cold. It meant this path was rarely, if ever, used by anyone. And the more poisonous mushrooms we saw, the deeper we were straying.
By the time darkness fell, we finally made it to flat ground, found the footprints of mules and people, and got back on the right path. In that moment, I could have cried.
Practical Tips: Set out early for Ice Lake — you must start your return by 2:00 PM at the latest. Following the trash bins is a good idea, but don't trust your sense of direction too much. Bring a headlamp or flashlight, and make sure your phone is fully charged.
Niyong Grand Canyon: A Motorcycle Rescue After My Knees Gave Out

On the last day, we planned to hike out of the mountains via the Niyong Grand Canyon.

The guesthouse owner said the trail was short and easy. I decided to believe him halfway. As it turned out, believing halfway was the right call.
Right out the door, my knees started protesting. The "aftermath" of yesterday's Ice Lake hike hit me full force — my knees hurt so badly I could barely bend them. The Niyong Grand Canyon trail also passed through Lower Yubeng Village, so I took one last look at this village I still hadn't seen in its entirety, and reluctantly said goodbye.
The paved road at the start was manageable, but when we hit the dirt downhill sections, my morale completely collapsed. With knees that couldn't bend, every step downhill was torture. After four hours, I had covered only a third of the distance.
Luckily, there was a small shop with a motorcycle that could take me down the mountain. Mr. Ke quickly arranged it — in that moment, the motorcycle was my savior.
Final Thoughts: On Waiting and Reunion
Throughout this Yubeng trip, I was a "fog child." I never saw the full view of Meili Snow Mountain, never saw the "Golden Sunlight" illuminating the peaks, and never even saw Yubeng Village surrounded by snow-capped mountains.

But I still think it was worth it.
Because sometimes, what you don't see leaves a deeper impression. Meili Snow Mountain is there, whether I see it or not. It watches over the people, the things, the moments in the mountains — guarding a scene straight out of a movie.

If you're lucky enough to see her, cherish that brief encounter. Take the most beautiful photos, and keep her in your heart.
If you don't see her, that's okay too. Because waiting itself is a kind of reunion.
A Few Practical Tips: 1. Chocolate is the most practical snack, but dried fish fillets and shredded squid are the most satisfying 2. Waterproof hiking boots are essential — lighter ones are better 3. Hiring a private car is more flexible than sharing one, especially when the joy of hopping straight into a car after coming out of the mountains is unmatched 4. Don't fully trust the owner's "round-trip time" estimates — give yourself an extra two hours 5. Bring a headlamp or flashlight — the mountains get dark very quickly
Goodbye, Yubeng. See you next time, Meili.


