Yunnan: A Journey to Find Lost Time and Myself

Prologue: When Life Becomes Nothing But a Sprint

Have you ever had those moments—when you wake up each day, and the first thought isn't "What do I want to do today?" but rather "What must I do today?"

I used to be one of those people, pushed along by life. No weekends. No time that belonged to me. Just endless overtime, business trips, dragging my suitcase from one city to another, from one hotel to the next. The longest stretch? I didn't return to my home in Beijing for an entire month.

A Japanese hospice nurse named Otsu Shuichi once wrote a book called The Top 25 Regrets People Have Before They Die. Over four years, he accompanied more than a thousand cancer patients to the end of their lives, recording their deepest regrets. What ranked first? Not "I didn't make enough money." Not "I didn't buy a house." It was this: "In my youth, I never did the things I truly wanted to do."

I read that line late one night, sitting in front of my computer in a rented Beijing apartment, staring blankly at an Excel spreadsheet. Outside my window, the sky was a hazy gray with smog. Inside, my body was exhausted to the point of numbness. I suddenly asked myself: All this grinding—was I doing it to become what others call "successful," or was this really the life I wanted?

What is a successful life, anyway? There's no standard answer. Any way of living is a free choice, as long as it comes from the heart—living with ease and satisfaction, seeking what you truly want and finding it. That's happiness.

So, in the early hours of that morning, I made a decision. I bought a ticket to Lijiang. I'd leave the next day.

No plan. No preparation. I hadn't even figured out where I'd stay. I just wanted my mind and my body to have a complete, thorough release.

Chapter One: Returning to Lijiang—Where It All Began

Why Lijiang?

Three years ago, I set foot on this land for the first time. It's strange to say, but that was my first solo trip ever. And when I stood in the ancient city of Lijiang, what surged up inside me was a feeling of "I could die right here and be content"—not despair, but a breathtaking shock of beauty. From that moment on, I was hooked on the feeling of being "on the road."

So when this "escape" came, my instinct was to return to Lijiang. I wanted to go back and see the places where I'd left footprints, to find the versions of myself I'd lost somewhere along the way.

The Flight: From Smog to Blue Sky in Three Hours

The day I left, I was still in a training session—from nine in the morning until nine at night. The moment it ended, I dragged my luggage to the airport at dawn. The motion was familiar; I'd been repeating it almost every day for the past year. But this time, it felt completely different.

The moment the plane took off, my heart took off with it.

After nearly three hours of flying, the view outside the window began to change. Below the clouds stretched endless mountain ranges and sapphire-blue lakes. I'd deliberately chosen a seat on the left side—last time I'd sat on the right, and I'd seen Jade Dragon Snow Mountain just before landing. This time, I wanted a different angle, a different view.

As the plane broke through the clouds and revealed that high-altitude blue sky, I almost wanted to open the cabin door and jump out. Freedom—that's what I long for most.

Renting a Car: The First Step to Freedom

After landing, I headed straight for the car rental counter. Ever since I'd driven myself around Qinghai last year, I'd decided that from now on, I'd rent a car at every destination. That way, I could go wherever I wanted, whenever I wanted, without ever worrying about hailing a taxi.

I rented a Buick Excelle, 1.6-liter engine, 256 yuan per day. I booked it for seven days. After a discount and insurance, the total came to 2,560 yuan. One thing to note: the Lijiang Sanyi Airport branch is a franchise, so you can't return the car at a different location. You have to bring it back to Lijiang. If you're planning to rent, keep that in mind.

Accommodation: A Little "Splurge" for One

When you're traveling, where you stay matters. I can be pretty easygoing sometimes—easygoing enough to sleep in a tree if I have to. But when I get picky, even I get annoyed with myself. This trip was a vacation, so I wasn't about to shortchange myself.

Before leaving, I searched online for a while and finally settled on "Yijing Bay No. 2 Inn." I booked their largest room—nearly 60 square meters. Honestly, it was a bit of a splurge. But when I saw the actual room, it was even better than I'd imagined. The only pity? Staying in such a gorgeous room all by myself felt like a waste of good scenery.

From the second-floor balcony of the inn, I could see Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the distance. After putting my luggage away, I planned to go out for a stroll. But I ran into the innkeeper's wife in the lobby. I hadn't expected her to be so young—and so beautiful. (That part matters.) She invited me to join her for tea, and I was happy to accept. As we talked, I discovered she was a fellow soldier—she had served in a cultural troupe, while I had been in the special forces.

On my first day in Lijiang, drinking tea brewed by a beautiful woman? Lucky me.

Chapter Two: Wandering the Ancient City—Finding Lost Time

Finding Food: A Bowl of Rice Noodles as Therapy

After the tea, my stomach started grumbling. Lijiang isn't short on food, but having too many choices can be just as overwhelming as having none.

Before I left, a friend recommended a WeChat public account called "69 Discount Pass." You register through WeChat, and at partner restaurants and shops, you get discounts ranging from 20% to 40% off. Its biggest advantage is that it compiles most of the places to eat, drink, and have fun, so you don't have to think too hard. I checked it out and found it pretty convenient—though if you prefer to wander aimlessly, feel free to skip it.

I decided to start with a bowl of authentic Yunnan rice noodles. I crossed half of the Old Town to find "Tanghui" rice noodle shop and ordered a bowl of beef noodle soup with skin-on beef. The atmosphere was nice. I asked the staff, and confirmed that the 69 card worked—all dishes 10% off (except set meals). In the end, I ordered a two-person set meal. I'd been dieting for too long, and on this trip, I wanted to indulge. I didn't finish it all, though—left some noodles in the other bowl. What a sin.

The flavor was authentic, and the two-person set meal cost only 80 yuan. For someone like me, who pays 20 yuan for a simple rice bowl in Beijing, that felt cheap.

Speaking of dieting: after Chinese New Year, I looked in the mirror one day and saw a pig—that pig was me. I resolved to lose the weight. Thirty days later, I'd dropped 20 pounds. There were times I was so exhausted I could barely keep going, but I gritted my teeth and pushed through. I always remember this line: "If you can't control your own weight, what can you control?" Let's take that to heart together.

Searching for a Memory

After eating, I decided to go looking for a memory—the inn I'd stayed at on my first visit to Lijiang, called "Dinglanju." Relying on vague recollections, I somehow found it. After all these years, it looked the same. Xiao Wang was still working there. Unfortunately, Sister Baihe wasn't around, or we could have had a good chat.

I talked with Xiao Wang for a while, but he had work to do, so I left him alone. I wandered into an Indian temporary tattoo shop. I'd always wanted to get some kind of tattoo, but I never had a reason. These temporary ones fade over time, so they were perfect. The price was a bit steep, though—150 yuan for my hand, 200 yuan for my arm. I knew it was more than double what you'd pay elsewhere, but the 69 card didn't cover this shop. Besides, "spending money on what your heart desires" is its own justification.

One tip: if you get one, don't use a hairdryer to speed up the drying process—it prevents the color from setting properly. Let it dry naturally for longer-lasting color.

Sunset and Stars at Lion Hill

Around 7 PM, the sun still hadn't set over Yunnan's sky. I decided to climb Lion Hill to watch the sunset over the ancient city. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was partially obscured by clouds, but the view was still breathtaking.

By the time I came down, it was finally dark. I checked the time—almost 9 PM. The sun sets about two hours later here than in Beijing. More than 3,000 kilometers apart makes a real difference. China is truly vast.

I passed by a food court, but the bowl of rice noodles from lunch was still weighing me down. I had no room left. Besides, for someone trying to lose weight, dinner wasn't an option. Except for one place—just looking at its sign made it worth a visit.

Jianghu Bar: Nights Healed by Song

How could you come to Lijiang and not visit a bar? "Jianghu" is one of the most famous bars in the city. The first time I'd arrived at Jianghu, years ago, I was at my lowest point. That night, Xiao Song sang "I Love You This Much," and it made me cry like a child.

Every night after that, during my stay in Lijiang, I'd go there alone, listening to the music, watching the people around me who seemed just as lost. I remember one year, a girl next to me suddenly started crying. I wanted to comfort her, but I didn't know where to begin—because I understood that feeling. Happy people are mostly alike, but unhappy people each have their own story. All I could do was hand her a tissue. She leaned on my shoulder, and by the time she stopped sobbing, my shoulder was soaked through.

When the music ended and people dispersed, there was none of the melodrama you might imagine. We never even asked each other's names. We didn't exchange contact information. We just hugged. She went left, I went right, and we each returned to our own lives.

Oh, and the 69 card works at Jianghu too—some drinks are 40% off. And even if you don't spend a cent, no one will kick you out. Because this is Jianghu.

When I returned to Jianghu this time, I learned they'd just come back from a vacation in Beijing. Xiao Song hadn't returned yet, but the new singer was pretty good. One song, "A Dream," had a different flavor to it. Another, "Reserved," was dedicated to his girlfriend. I loved both.

By the time I left the bar, it was past midnight. Bars in Lijiang are required to stop singing after 12 AM to avoid disturbing nearby inns. On my way back, I ran into four street performers singing a "very yellow, very violent" song about condoms—an improvised parody. I almost laughed myself unconscious.

The Midnight Sky: A Solitary Luxury

Late at night, walking alone on the ancient town's cobblestone streets, I looked up and saw stars scattered across the sky. Only a few lonely lights remained on the streets. It was quiet and beautiful. It's only in moments like these that I feel how small I really am.

I didn't want to go back. I climbed Lion Hill again in the dead of night to take in the entire ancient city's nighttime scenery. To my surprise, even with the city lights and moonlight, I could still faintly make out the Milky Way. That was a pleasant surprise.

By the time I returned to the inn, it was 2:30 AM. The front door was still open, and the staff were still waiting for me. I thought they'd have gone to bed long ago. Making them wait so long made me a little embarrassed.

The night was deep. The bustle of the day had all settled down, sleeping beneath Lijiang's blue night sky.

Goodnight.

Chapter Three: Shuhe—Meeting an Old Friend in a Strange Land

The Joy of Waking Naturally

One of life's greatest pleasures is waking up naturally, without an alarm. I hadn't experienced that feeling in over half a year. Forget waking naturally—I didn't even get enough basic sleep, barely four to five hours a night. Only in Lijiang could I sleep until I naturally woke. Here, time is the cheapest thing there is.

Today, I was meeting an old friend—Xiao Ci, a girl I've known for seven years. I hadn't expected to run into her in Lijiang. She was leaving for Changsha the next day, but "meeting an old friend in a strange land" is always worth a visit.

The Story of Zhang Xiaoshi

First, let me introduce Xiao Ci properly.

Years ago, when I was still in college, I rescued a cat that had been burned in a fire. After emergency treatment, it stayed with me, and we grew very close. Later, when I graduated and joined the military, no one could take care of it. That's when Xiao Ci appeared, saying she wanted to adopt it. I'd only known her for a short time, and I was afraid it was just a whim. So I asked her to come from Changsha to Wuhan to pick up the cat. If she was willing to travel that far just for a stray cat, I knew she'd take good care of it.

As it turned out, entrusting Xiao Shi (the cat) to her was the best decision I ever made. Now Xiao Shi is as fat as a pig, and she gets to be held by a beautiful woman every day—a privilege I've never had. So Xiao Ci became the "child's mother."

From our first meeting to now, seven years have passed. I've gone from a boy to a man. Xiao Shi has gone from a kitten to the middle of her life. I wish you health and happiness in the years you have left—this is for you, my dearest Zhang Xiaoshi.

Strolling Through Shuhe

I stepped out of my room, and the sky was still blue with white clouds. How could a day like this not lift your spirits?

I arrived in Shuhe and met Xiao Ci again. Two years since we'd last seen each other, and she was still as beautiful as ever—not a day older. Sometimes I wonder if she's some kind of fairy. After a round of greetings, she took on the role of host, saying she'd show me around Shuhe properly, and then we'd head to Lashihai in the evening for a friend's birthday party.

As we walked, she told me about everything that had happened over the past two years, along with little stories about Shuhe. She said she wanted to open an inn here and bring Xiao Shi to retire here. At first, I thought she was joking. But then I realized she was serious. It looks like Shuhe will soon have another beautiful innkeeper.

We passed a tea set shop called "Yiwa Tang." She's into tea ceremony, so she pulled me inside. My boss is also a tea lover, so I figured I'd buy something to "bribe" him, hoping he'd let me take more time off in the future.

The tea sets were unique. One cup, when placed under a light, would glow with a translucent sheen. I ended up choosing two sets—one for myself, one for my boss. Unfortunately, the 69 card didn't cover this shop, so no discount. But they had a treasure hunt promotion: every cardholder could pick up a "wa cat" figurine as a consolation prize.

Maishi Coffee: An Impromptu Karaoke Session

This girl acts like a child in Shuhe. She even does that cute head-tilt thing. She said she'd show me around properly, but before long, she was complaining about being tired and insisted we find a place to rest.

We found a café called "Maishi Coffee" along the river. It had an outdoor seating area right by the water, a nice atmosphere, and a live singer. The moment she sat down, she collapsed into the chair like a puddle of mud. "Are you that tired?"

The owner came over to ask what we wanted to drink. After we ordered, he actually sat down with us. As we chatted, we discovered we were from the same hometown. Running into someone from your hometown in a distant place is rare—our hometown is very small. When he found out I do photography, he asked me to take some pictures for him to use on a dating site. Fine, I'll help you out. O mighty internet, give this man a girl.

I hadn't sung karaoke in ages. Since I had the chance here, I decided to "make a fool of myself." Nobody here knows me anyway. While I was singing, the owner kept chatting with Xiao Ci. At the end, he dedicated a song to her called "The Reserved, Sleazy You." It was very risqué.

After an hour, the girl had recovered her energy. We paid and left. This café was also a 69 card partner, so we got 20% off. Saved another 20 yuan.

Heaven's Time: A Postcard to the Future

Earlier, at Yiwa Tang, I'd learned about a treasure hunt. Another shop in Shuhe called "Heaven's Time" (a postcard store) was also participating. I found the shop and got a free postcard. All postcards were 20% off. Now I was the one leading the girl on a treasure hunt.

Shuhe isn't very big. I asked the owner, and it turned out the two shops were less than 100 meters apart. The moment I walked in, my inner pseudo-hipster emerged. This place is perfect for sitting alone, daydreaming, writing postcards, and reading books.

The shop lives up to its name—Heaven's Time. You absolutely have to try the owner's hand-brewed coffee. The flavor is spot-on.

This was the postcard I got from the treasure hunt. I made a deal with the owner: in a few days, I'd send him the starry sky photos I'd taken, and he'd turn them into postcards to sell in the shop. Maybe you'll see them. If you do, show some support.

Chapter Four: Lashihai—An Unexpected Surprise

Seeing that time was getting late, Xiao Ci and I drove to Lashihai to attend her friend's birthday party.

Lashihai is located about 10 kilometers west of Lijiang's county seat. It's the first nature reserve in Yunnan Province to be designated as a "wetland." I hadn't made it there on my last trip to Yunnan, so this time I was finally making up for it. The moment I entered the scenic area, I knew—this was a place where you could take stunning photos.

(To be continued: Dali, Shuanglang, cycling around Erhai Lake...)

Epilogue: The Meaning of Travel

This trip had no grand plan, no meticulous preparation. Just a plane ticket and a desire to leave.

But it was precisely this spontaneity that helped me find those lost times again—not time itself, but the version of myself I'd lost somewhere along the way.

We are all pieces of paper with wrong words written on them, desperately searching for correction fluid. But some mistakes don't need to be erased. Some times don't need to be "found." They're already there—like Lijiang's blue sky and white clouds, waiting for you to look up.

Freedom—that's what I long for most.

And you—how long has it been since you last looked up at the sky?

Practical Tips Summary

1. Car Rental: Lijiang Sanyi Airport has a car rental counter, but it's a franchise—you can't return the car at a different location. Plan accordingly.
2. Accommodation: Yijing Bay No. 2 Inn is recommended. Great environment, with views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
3. Save Money: Follow the "69 Discount Pass" WeChat public account. After registering, you can get discounts at many Lijiang merchants.
4. Temporary Tattoos: Indian-style temporary tattoos are pricey (150 yuan for hand, 200 yuan for arm). Let them dry naturally—don't use a hairdryer.
5. Bars: "Jianghu" bar stops singing after midnight. Some drinks are 40% off with the 69 card.
6. Postcards: "Heaven's Time" has a treasure hunt promotion. You can get a free postcard, and all postcards are 20% off.

More travel notes: Chasing China's Most Beautiful Starry Skies

Weibo: @SilentTongueJinZi

Personal WeChat Public Account: JinZi on the Road